hickster

NGK I actually rate the Irridiums but even standard new ones often work wonders. 205/40/17's are about 3% out in the wrong direction, that'll hurt badly until up to motorway speed.

Ignore the fuel guage they are notoriously vague- I can apparently do about 50 miles on an empty tank before the light kicks in . The light is also pretty random, but is a better way to calculate mpg. Apart from the other things people have mentioned I found fresh gear oil seemed to help fuel economy, slightly out tyre sizes absolutely kill it dead, check what profile are on the 17's.

Awesome! those would of originally had cool 'turbo' or 'Aero' graphics on them I think. Where wheels are concerned I would avoid Halfords paints. I have just done mine in E-tech competition white (similar to Honda Champ white) seems pretty tough. The most important thing is to use very good acid etch primer (I used Closterman) and as much prep as possible. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170876793542? ... 1439.l2649 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/E-Tech-Alloy- ... d12&_uhb=1

And MC2 hubs have a different offset to 4x100 Honda hubs that is compensated for by the wheel. I have no idea what the offset is on MG hubs, similar I would have thought.

What you need is an MG ZS (only the 180 I think has 100 pcd hubs and MC2/MB6 sized brake discs but I could be wrong). Not sure how easy they are to find where you are though.

HT leads or a loose connection breaking up under high rpm vibration? Odd that it's not throwing up a code, probably rules out a sensor problem.

Vauxhall are a good source of cool old rally wheels- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200855331709? ... 1438.l2649

I am running Energy (softer than most polybushes apparently) on stock suspension (aerodeck with no ARB). My thoughts are on the last page of my build thread, currently still of the same opinion.

Excellent work, car is looking awesome . I don't think this is the car you were trying to find info on before but here's some more TE-37 goodness for you!- viewtopic.php?f=141&t=230

Depends if you need them or not really. I run J&R they have a 2 year warranty which is good but I wouldn't expect them to hold up to 300bhp for long, or last that much longer than two years of hard use- they are just pattern parts. Bear in mind Hasport will relieve you of $1500 for a drag spec B series driveshaft, Raxles etc are also pretty pricey even if you can get them. I haven't used Yonaka but according to Tegiwa they have never had any returned.

If they are genuine (can't see ant reason to doubt) that does seem a very cheap price, certainly the cheapest I have seen them in the uk. That's not so cheap J&R do complete shafts for about £50 which are fine oem replacement but nothing like the engineering that goes into Yonaka or Hasport shafts. Generally Civic shafts snap from corrosion, but as you up the horsepower they are a fairly common failure (yes by this point you would be running an uprated clutch).

Definitely not, the sunroof is a real pain in the a*s- they weigh a ton, they leak, the drain holes are not big enough and cause major problems, the seals cost £375 to replace (cannot be detached from the glass), they constantly rattle, the inner cover also rattles, it catches on most roof bars when in the tilt position not to mention that an opening in the roof weakens the rigidity of the whole car. I'm getting mine deleted asap.

Cool, the Honda wheels look a million times better. Will look when lowered esp in gunmetal perhaps?

This. This what lol Is the answer to the OP.

This.

You want 195/50/r15's if you don't have a VTI. You wil not need camber adjustments unless you are running fairly extreme offset and lowering.

See here- viewtopic.php?f=56&t=10983&p=131888#p131888 And here- http://www.camskill.co.uk/m14b0s1014p86 ... 97_-_02_01 Or here- http://www.camskill.co.uk/m14b0s1014p33 ... e_M_Series

Hi welcome! hope you enjoy the forum. Couple of budget tips for you- Debadging is done easiest with the aid of some careful dental flossing- only the H is mechanically fixed. Best not to use moisture holding chalkboard paint- vinyl is you best bet or rattle cans of matt black are available cheaply. Generally if funds are tight it is better to leave dodgy bodywork rather than not do it right. The best things you can do for free are to remove the rear arch liners and the side skirts to clean all the crap out from behind them. If panels are looking too rat look for you then cover them in vinyl until you can sort them. Extending the wiring to the rear spoiler is no problem with a few crimps. Repainting wheel trims is actually quite expensive to do right- just throw them away. Your in winter wheel spec anyway so wear your rust with pride! Some people have found cutting out the bit of plastic at the rear of the stereo opening helps all the wiring fit in a lot better.

Then you might have sunroof drainage problem maybe x2- sunroof drains.

-And obviously take the wheel off and check there is not a lump of tar etc on the back hitting the calliper, dismantle the brake and make sure it's not full of bits of debris .

Could be a damaged tyre or lost balance but you should feel that through the steering wheel. Your driveshaft rubber balance thing may have parted company? You may have driven over something that knocked your exhaust into close contact with the floor? An engine mount is on it's way out?

Which pedal? Immediately I would say arch liner or undertray, but you have probably already ruled them out. Does it increase with vehicle speed or engine speed?

No should look fine, 17 is really the biggest you can go on a civic without an osteopathic care plan. Doubt it with 7"- unless you go super low.

nice one.

Probably wouldn't fit. they were an option on the MGF/ TF I think. Discs seem to be 308 which is good, but almost definitely won't be 4x114 fit.