hickster

Camskill! that was the name I was trying to think of; thanks fellas!

Rover 400 \ 45, Mg ZS. Some of the finishes vary a little. You obviously will not find an Rover dealer, but yes when dealing with breakers etc never mention Honda unless you want to pay twice as much for compatable items.

Domani pics for comparison- http://specs.amayama.com/honda/domani/1992_10/photo/

Probaly not without a lot of modification. The MA / MB1 front end was based on the Japanese market 'Domani' 4 dr saloon to save on development costs. As far as I know only the headlights are interchangeable (Domani not EK) the grill looks similar to JDM units but probably the whole bumper(like the wings etc) were made to fit the new HUM european chassis. That's just my guess, for the cost it might be worth a try or altrnativly a de-chromed one looks like this;-

Yes it does. Remember to disconnect the battery for about half an hour before disconecting the airbag. Some of the bosses seem to have been welded a little randomly; it might go on a degree or two out of upright (or not); nothing that basic tracking can't sort out if it bothers you.

Yeah would be worth checking the o2 sensor= I think that should throw up a code. There are no MAF's on these cars ( as an ex Alfa owner I would say thank f***!). Hamp are made by Honda like NGK, the main benefit is stable oil pressure under VTEC (which won't be of much use) the filtration is no better than oem. The cold startup valve does seem to make a difference this time of year. I have found standard supermarket fuel to give fairly poor mpg in a d-series, Sainsburys being the worst I have come across (really a big difference). Not tried any of there improved octane offerings, but my guess is not as good as v-power etc. Your D14 should be not far of my D15 in terms of mpg iirc, just got 156 miles from £20 BP standard. You'll probably have the v-power club on here any moment!

Sadly they are only 14" steels; I have also been a bit shocked by the cost of new 15's. Looked at Mini one, Insight etc- all pricey even used. Yep ET is measured in mm. Higher the number- the thinner the track (wheel moves in away from the arch) lower numbers give increased track (wheel moves out to fill the arch). ET38 will only move your tyres out 4mm compared to your OZ's (8mm overall increase in track). ET stands for 'Einpress Tiefe' fact fans, incase you were wondering.

Shouldn't be difficult to offload; you can spigot these to fit VAG, Vauxhall, MX5's etc and with spacers early BMW. If you want to swap them for a set of steelies when your done let me know

These are the correct offset for you; most of the other posters above are talking about the MB6 which is different. The idea with increasing wheel and tyre sizes is to keep the inner rim in the same 'plane'. Therefore a 185 tyre increases 10mm to a 195 the ET should lower by 5mm to stop the inner rim moving towards the running gear. Generally the max offset you want at 195 45 r16 is ET40 (et38 is fine) get lower than 35 you will probably run into tramlining issues. If you are rubbing the arch your car is too low. It is more important to check they will clear your calipers; the seller should know. I ran 195 45 r16 p/zero nero at ET40, stock suspension on the MA8 without issue (apart from the poor ride quality- 15's ftw). The VTI has a completely different offset and is not relevant. Polished rims generally don't mix well with winter use though do they?

4.9% is quite a big increase in size (most calculators will recomend 2.5% as a maximum deviation. 195 45 r16 is the correct size and will increase mpg due to increased torque (easier to accelerate- this more than outweighs the effect of longer legs at higher speeds you will get from the bigger tyres) and the thinner contact patch. Change them as soon as you can. Change the oil as soon as possible, this will help a lot. You could fit a Hamp oil filter that helps a little on cold startup. Sounds like you have other issues though, check the fuel system from injectors back for leaks, check your handbrake is releasing properly (two issues that can occur in this weather). Check the hairpins don't cause the inside of the tyre to bind anywhere (though from memory I think they are fine ET wise). Even aftermarket air filters should not cause the ECU to overfuel, but double check the seal on the airbox. Check you didn't split the intake hose when fitting the filter. Reset the ECU and repeat the fuel calculation, check for error codes, check exhaust/ any unsual noises or behavior.

My thoughts would be- Yes, No, Yes on the rear, not a flippin clue; has anyone ever done this?

Um that link doesn't work sorry. You'll have to put the car details in.

The Koni shocks for the Mb6 are a different part number due to the slightly heavier engine I think. You're right I cant see springs listed on this table; maybe thats why some people have been having problems with the front end. http://www.koni.com/index.php?id=254 Try Eibach maybe?

Behind the glove box for the pollen filter, should be in the 'how to' section I think.

It's not that great, but after a 40 mins driving you should be pretty toasty even in this weather. Check the condition of your cabin/pollen filter- you are probably just heating up a pile of old leaves in there!

Portable 12v jetwash wired in to the system

Koni STR.T (non adjustable version of the sport) is widely rated as a matched spring shock combo, cheaper than coilovers. Plenty of cars on here have them, have a look through the showroom section. MG ZS suspension also popular mod to the MB6 (better ride and a bit lower).

Wow, look at the state of the calipers- and the wheels! Crazy - wonder what you would pay for a DC2/ EK9 in this condition. Nice one Dave! When you going to swap in the full leather interior then?

Yep- didn't have much work this afternoon

Also think Moe and m4rkvti-s are in with a shout. We've still not had any aerodecks as cotm- get those project threads going!

Now thats a good policy more test stations should take notice of. Agreed the TUV test should be required all over europe. Oh and Dave loving the interior; well worth the effort!

I was using both for a while but didn't like looking like a christmas tree when braking. The improvement in rear view is pretty dramatic with it gone. When I get to doing a project thread I'll put a pic and some specs up of the bolts; not had any leaks yet!

Sorry to jump in on this kinda mid flow, if you mean the spoiler obstructing the third brake light you mot guy would be right. You need to either fit a vti spoiler with a brake light and hook it up (easy I can do a how to) or removing the third light completely should solve this issue (though never personally tried this option). All you need are some marine grade stainless bolts and washers from ebay to fill the holes (couple of £).