hickster

That's a good price for a solid MB6, looks good. You probably know this from having EG's but the best way to keep it like that is to pull off the rear arch trims and the side skirts a least once a year for a good clean out. Quick way to get images from photo bucket- in 'your library' there should be a box with IMG code under the thumbnail of the image you want. Click on that to highlight it copy that using your browser then paste it into your reply on here.

Spoon minimal look- http://gtblogger.com/wp-content/uploads ... -Civic.jpg Mugen has fins in the grill and holes in the lip- http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h276/ ... pic035.jpg

Sounds like a plan . Got to be Spoon grill and lip for an EK though for me. Glad you put those twisted 5's on looks loads better until you get the ITR wheels fitted. What happened to the DC2 I thought you had it sorted out?

Adjustable front splitter and a good aero package would do more for performance than engine work I would imagine, for the intended use of this car. Semi DIY kits seem to be getting cheaper these days- http://www.carbonmods.co.uk/Products/Un ... LT001.aspx

x2 panda eyes FTW!

Looks like you need to get a fixing in the forward mount holes. I'm assuming the spoilers a sort of foam filled affair at the ends like the civic ones? Could you bond in a section of stainless threaded bar? Put a coarse thread stainless screw from the boot into the spoiler material? Find another sort of helical insert (like a metal plasterboard fixing e.g.) and screw into that? http://assets.jewson.co.uk/product-imag ... n/9541.jpg Move the centre fixings to the end? (if they are like civic ones that have a coarse thread into the spoiler that you can unscrew, they look the same) Bucket of tiger seal?

He needs them to get in and out As it is fully caged you could probably loose the SIPS bars, shouldn't make the doors too floppy. Cage and pedal box is looking excellent btw. Has it been TIG welded?- I know nothing about welding unfortunately but those joints look pretty amazing to me. I would go for Gunmetal (my dash is Rover gunmetal metallic- actually a nice colour). You need to be careful about Champ, although it might be fun to rub the 'others' up the wrong way. As it will be obvious it was never a type-R (due to being a bit J-lo around the back ) it might look a bit odd, like red badging an M. Obviously it has the credentials now (and would look good in white) but some quarters that don't rate M's might take it as a bit of a wannabe rather than a serious track car, which would be a shame.

Your welcome

Damaged/worn cables at tailgate entry (assuming you have a spoiler brake light)?

Worth a try- remember you'll be 5mm closer to the outer arch. For anyone using that calc offset is measured from the centreline of the wheel and we're dealing with positive offsets which is why it's added. [Disclaimer- all measurements and calculations are approximate and may not contain any accuracy whatsoever!]

K&N cones go up to at least 6" they're bound to have one not far off 4.5". Not sure about 'shrooms though, I though most were designed for forced induction so should go to that size?

Battery off or pull the ECU fuse for about an hour. Reconnect, start without touching the accelerator, run for 15 mins or until the fan kicks in, ignition off (with key in still), start again immediately and drive. Pretty sure that's it, there's a 'how too' on here somewhere.

Optima are deep cycle batteries- great but very expensive and not needed unless you have a lot of accessories draining power, iirc not that light either. On the 0awg, probably overkill but better safe than sorry is what they're saying I think.

Could you not use the hole for the sensor and put a filter on the breather pipe?

I tend to chop and crimp in head unit harnesses as it saves a bit of room in the back and makes it easier to get the unit in (I know- I'm a hack artist ). As Tom said MeisterR do coil overs specific to the MB. DC2 (fork type rears), EG, Rover 400 and MGzs will all fit but the spring rates may be off slightly depending what you find. For springs http://www.camskill.co.uk can sort you out with Eibach (best but not cheap), Tein or Apex. They all give in the region of 35mm drop which is sensible on (good condition) stock shocks Koni make sport (adjustable damping) and street shock and spring kits specific for the MB- some people have had problems with the wrong spring being supplied for the front of the MB6 though, also they have just taken a big old price hike. http://www.h-tune.co.uk and http://www.funkypower.co.uk/catalogue.php?make=HONDA are other shops you may find useful.

Not usually a fan of schmooved cars but this looks good I think, definitely no spoiler or boot lip spoiler. If you loose those arch gaps it is going to be insanely low though isn't it?

I think I'm right with this list (most likely first)- Dirty TB IACV problem Lambda o2 sensor issue Vac leak As mentioned they're usually the culprits. Is the ECU throwing up any codes,have you tried resetting it?

Basically you need some spacers if you want to run those tyres- hold on here comes the maths, and I've only had one cup of tea this morning A 6j rim is 150mm (for the purpose of this calculation- shsssh) so the distance from the rear rim to the mounting face is- 150/2= 75 + 45(stock offset)= 120mm Your 7j rim is 175/2= 87.5 +35= 122.5. Doesn't seem too far off, so a 5mm spacer might sort it or go to 195/50/R15 tyres which will also save you a lot of money in fuel.

Gutted to hear this, very sad news indeed. Our thoughts go out to you Dave.

This looks like a good save those aftermarket wheels looked poor- could they not even bother to paint behind the centre caps I bet the alloy knob was not good in Finland, love having my leathery old Momo knob this time of year (it reminds me to stop being a JDM fashion victim and only do mods that make the car better). Had no idea Supersprint did stuff for the 'deck, Looking at their site it seems they have every model covered, good looking kit too (if a little pricey).

Find a rear engined car with the battery in the front- then fit in reverse! I think you need to add cutoff switch to your list. If you just go for a gel battery in the original position to start with you would get a lot of the effect for less hassle, then wait for better weather before pulling out the carpets and trim to do the full job.

All the front bumpers are the same so I'm pretty sure the fitting guide will work for you. You will need to cut the blanks with a hole saw or buy some from a fog'd car being broken. You will also need to make up or find the wiring and relays, and the switch.

Rally design also seem to have a good range of stuff. http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPath=692

That looks like a pristine car, have you had to do much valeting etc? The MB6 interior looks great.

Thats a good link noodels, lots of info. Just to be clear obviously don't bother to buy a Spoon battery , but would be a good idea to go for a gel type (eg Tegiwa sell Odyssey for about £100, or you can get cheaper unbranded ones if you look around). There should not be any drop off in performance- lead acid batteries are a pretty victorian level of technology and you don't want one flying around you boot in a crash.