hickster

Check the condition of your tyres (when warmed up as well as cold), have they been stood for any length of time? Also as Tom says check all the brake shields for stones/rubbing. A sticky calliper and no shims might give you some odd noises (other than brake squeal) drive past a mate at 30 and see if they can pinpoint the location of the sound.

Those look like Jamex coilovers (or from the same factory) should be pretty reasonable quality for the money.

You could just change your hubs as well?

There is probably a circlip behind the window winder arm. Push the door card back as much as you can and see if you can spot it, it's the usual way of fixing them. Pop it off the spline with a small screwdriver and the winder arm should slide free. With the torx bolts can you get at the heads with mole grips or use bolt extractors? otherwise maybe just drill them out.

That'll get your post count up . I have found that water tracks to the spare wheel well from the roof via the boot side window- I think it is the drain from the sunroof to the exit behind the rear bumper getting blocked possibly.

Wow that's a blast from the past! I need to go through that list and make sure the info is correct. As for wing mirrors all the base plates fit the same, they are a stock item sourced from Rover. They are available in manual or electric and with electric heaters depending on spec. If you need heated and can't find any for sale you can replace the glass for around £12 to the heated version. EK and EG etc all have completely different mirrors.

No don't think so, but the D15z8 is significantly lighter than the B18 (especially if it had aircon) therefore it will sit higher.

Will this not fit? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-I ... 2321wt_956

Sorry just read 'clutch' . Thought you were talking about brakes. I think any B series kit will fit.

Buy an MB6 kit- Hel and Goodridge make them.

Yeah 10-40 is the same grade as 75-80 (something to do with SAE conversions ). MTF has extra cleaners and stuff in it. Engine oil is fine as a temp replacement. The MTF that you use in a Honda box has to be safe for 'yellow metals' iirc as they have some brass parts in the sync?

x2 - change the MTF there should not be a huge difference in gear selection from cold to warm. It might have been filled with the wrong stuff (either by mistake or to mask a problem) or it's been in there a loooong time.

This is really looking excellent. Those Rials are awesome!

The Koni springs are H&R. Have a look at Apex if you don't want to shell out for Eibach. http://www.camskill.co.uk/m14b0s1014p33 ... A_CIVIC_5d

It utilises an enclosed cylinder filter rather than a flat panel (although similar in surface area a cylinder makes better use of it and creates a smoother airflow post filter). Another reason is the amount of work that has been done by tuning companies to get the most out of it and the number of good aftermarket filters (HAMP, Spoon etc).

The quickest way to get power is to remove the resonator and reset the ecu- which is free A carbon intake like Tegiwas is good because carbon is reasonably thermally inert. Alloy short arm intakes are not great on a D because of the heat transfer (exhaust wrap, CAI, heat shielding all cheap fixes of course). If your not after looks most people go for Spoon/ K&N panel filter in the stock box or a ITR air box swap.

Koni seem to be best buds with H&R at the moment; maybe they do something compatible? Probably in a similar inflated price range but you never know

No it shouldn't. Lowering springs have a 'progressive' rate to stop them bottoming out hard on the bump stops- which is wound to the specific axle load of your car (this is why cut springs are a very bad idea). If you have decent coil-overs you probably need to check the spring rate and compression tune. If you are running lowering springs on stock shocks check they're not leaking.

Yep 1.8l for a D series box. The grade is 75w-80. I have just changed to Motul motylgear- http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60205-motul ... x-oil.aspx Other brands are available!

I'm in the old school train of thought on this one- if you remove the airbag you really want to have a proper harness and that makes daily driving a pain. In the UK removing airbags can cause a serious insurance headache, not sure what it's like where you are? The MB6 wheel is fairly decent (although as large as the one you have). The speed of the rack makes it hard to get go-kart like handling out of an M.

Might be worth checking over your front suspension bushes? Might be something like the wishbone shifting about only under the specific load when you hit the brakes in reverse?

Yep but it's just MTF. Brighton Honda wouldn't sell me any unless I bought 50 litres of it . I'm pretty sure there's not a shed in Japan with some guy in it hand mixing oil to Honda's exacting specifications and posting it to needy Honda fans the world over. More likely distribution in each country source MTF from what is commercially available and has the right cleaners etc in it.

There are a lot of threads on other forums about how good/bad Royal purple and other MTF's are. TBH I'm non the wiser from scanning through them. I have used Castrol in my last Honda's box which seemed ok. I have literally just put Motul in mine last weekend and it seems to have solved a few problems and the shifts are noticeably slicker (as they should be new oil after less than a week). http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60205-motul ... x-oil.aspx

Shafts or gearbox. Do you get a knocking or crunching on full lock? Is it hard to select reverse etc?

Looks like you could do with a couple of lengths of box section steel- those front mounts are a long way from the originals.