MB6 Speakers now with pics 9/10/13

[Dexter]

I fitted my new Jbl mids into to the old housings. But they were deeper than the originals, so i had to cut off the rear of the oem housing to make them fit. So my question is, can i leave them like this, exposed, or should i come up with something diy to protect them from water etc. crap finding it's way inside the doors? Judging from how much time i spent cleaning the insides of the door prior to sound deadening, A LOT of shizzle finds it's way in.

[ryan..]

you dont HAVE to but it can help to protect the speakers.

Eventually they will start to rust due to moisture in there. You can buy a moisture guard from skinz but im sure there is stuff you can use aswell.

What you dont want to do is seal them up. Reason being is the speaker needs the door cavity to breathe and use as an enclousure

[bigblondewolf]

How about Italian Hertz, it popular over there?

I used to have 17cm ESK - that's mid-level, component - in the doors of my my civic jdm 5g. Sounded really good straight off the head unit, especially when I did some soundproofing to the doors themselves.

The VTi has decent front line, otherwise I would have swapped them right after the head unit was gone

[ryan..]

Hertz aren't popular in the main stream but in audio circles they are very well regarded

[prezes]

How about Italian Hertz, it popular over there?

I used to have 17cm ESK - that's mid-level, component - in the doors of my my civic jdm 5g. Sounded really good straight off the head unit, especially when I did some soundproofing to the doors themselves.

The VTi has decent front line, otherwise I would have swapped them right after the head unit was gone

Old thread but I am running Hertz ESK 165's in the front and I am really pleased with them - but you need to use an amp to get what they have to offer.

[Karjis]

I'd also have a try with DLS, Focal, Ground Zero, Rainbow or Helix in midprice sector. Remember that when price is rising, most of the rise is coming from quality of tweeter and crossover. With better tweeter, crossover point can be set lower and soundstage rises nearer the dashboard level from the feet. Of course for good stereo image, quality of tweeter is really important.

And if lacking bass in M, it's because front doors are almost tinfoil, you'll get much more punch even from stock speakers with proper damping of front doors. In low volume levels should be remembered that cheap amps are usually having really poor specs, most quality head units (Pioneer/Alpine..) are having lover distortion levels and better channel separation than cheap amps. With higher volume levels plain power is making the difference, but with 10 real watts volume is actually really loud if not wasting power for electric bass boosts and all kind of bull s***. Prefer RIGID speaker installation and good damping makes the real bass. (Vibroplast, Dynamat, etc)

In M:s front doors it's easy to cut a good mounting ring for 6,5" speaker from about 25mm thick plywood, take the outer lines from that original plastic speaker mount and mark the screwholes. Then cut properly sized opening for speaker, drill mounting holes and install.

Mounting is easy to those original mounting points with a bit longer screws. Between ring and door i suggest using some rubber seal, i personally use just normal P-shaped foam seal which is made for windows/doors. All holes near speaker should be blocked and in half meter radius from speaker, it should be airtight, at least to cabin direction. With door damping, don't ever block the water drains from doors or use materials which absorbs water inside the door structure.

Okay this wasn't any howto, just some advice to get some quality to sound. I'll be making some project from my MC damping next spring, but it's no going to be this basic. In MB I had some kind of sound evolution slowly, there I also used original speakers with simple damping for a while, and it was huge improvement compared to original.

[Guest civicreaper]

Do all the ms have the same size speakers

[NIKH25]

Yes they do, although not all models have tweeters but they can easily be fitted.

[Karjis]

Front door midrange speakers are always the same in all M:s. Tweeters are usually found only at high spec versions. But original tweeters are just replacements for mirror triangle plastic cover. Wired parallel with door speaker. Original tweeter modules has a series capacitor acting as crossover blocking low frequencies from damaging the tweeter. So no need to worry about anything else than just connecting + and - wires to same wires going to midrange speakers. So there are no separate crossover box like in higher quality 2-component speaker sets.

 

Actually midrange speaker is not filtered any way even if using tweeters. Just acoustic characteristics of speaker is so that high range is not reproducing so well from midrange speakers. Usually that is the reason why "real" 2-component sets sounds better, as a speaker itself, Honda front end is not so bad. 

 

Rear speaker installation place is so bad in all M:s that I don't even see the point to do anything for those. For example MB3/MB6 rear speaker is acoustically killing all bass because front and rear sides of speaker aren't separated properly. Outcome is acoustic short circuit in lower frequencies. That structure can work in midrange but good bass reproduction with original rear speaker installation in M is not anyway controllable. Just concentrate to front end with M.  

[DAVEMB2]

Ok for all who need to see the front M speakers and size this is just to help out .

Here is a speaker with the spacer it sit in hope this helps

What the speaker sit on ,in

The speaker

The inner hole dai is 12.5cm

Hope this helps