Didjeridave Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 OK, the word slacker has been quite fairly mentioned; I should have got this up and running ages ago. I'll get a few pics of my current job up soon, hopefully with a how to on the nitrous setup. Here's a little history of what the car's been through over the three years I've owned... Oddly enough I ended up with the car when my insurance company wouldn't let me insure a Volvo V40 T4; looking around the smallish performance estate market, I remember not being sure why I hadn't considered one already when I found this one for £1350 with 43k on the clock. That's changed quite a bit since! Generally, my philosophy on car modding is to replace worn components with uprated parts. I care little for the looks & I'm not the greatest at getting the bucket & sponge out regularly. My car is a machine with a function, not a fashion accessory; that said, lightness isn't the only reason I went for my current alloys! Now for mod history: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Didjeridave Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 I kept the car stock for a good 6 months, then first thing I went for was a set of alloys, mainly because three tyres needed replacing & it was cheaper to buy the set I found than buy four new tyres. Ended up getting 17/7J/et38 Wolfrace Hybrids, with 2054017s. The rest is as follows:NGK Iridium plugs,K&N 57i induction kit,Custom made Cobra catback by Exhausts UK in Sheffield, subtle sports sound with twin tailpipe,MGZS rear ARB (really wish I'd fitted this before taking it for the exhaust fitting, it gets in the way),Strongflex polybush kit, full front and back,EBC drilled & grooved discs with redstuff pads, recently replaced with yellowstuff pads,Alloys replaced with team dynamics pro race 16/7j/et42s with Yokohama 1954516 s-drives, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Didjeridave Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 Currently the car's being stripped near-bare to fit the following, including a little project I've been working on for a while:MGZS V6 shocks (rears from a 2004 MkII ZS & brand new fronts),Replacing all [some knackered after 12k] bushings with Hardrace 50% stiffer rubber,Above includes adjustable Hardrace front camber/wishbones, rear upper camber arms & rear toe arms,Yonaka driveshafts,New lower balljoints both sides,Discovered both front ARB mounting brackets had sheared; new ones to fit,Replacement of front ARM drop links with my own modified version using M12 high tensile bolts,Now for the silly part...AEM fuel rail (I didn't strictly need this, but it made tapping in to the fuel line straightforward & more reliable than barbed hose fittings etc.), I've got an ultrasonic cleaning bath at work, so I'm going to try & clean the injectors in this during install,FSE adjustable regulator (I didn't strictly need this but Kyekye was selling one at a decent price),Walbro 255 pump (...um, ditto, but will be needed in the future as & when boost happens),NOS systems nitrous & fuel solenoids with self-made nitrous solenoid controller (pics to follow),Converted CO2 fire extinguisher as a nitrous bottle. No, honestly officer, I'm just very safety concious...NGK Iridium plugs, 2 grades colder,Wizards of NOS crossfire single point injector, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noodels Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 gonna put a heater on the bottles , should get sh1t loads of power be nice to see them pics ,nice Mods mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Didjeridave Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 Hmm, I'll possibly add one in the future, but more for reliability than power. Bottle heaters just maintain bottle temperature; good for cold days on 'normal' systems & necessary on REALLY big power gains. As the bottle empties, it cools (same as a deordorant can etc.) so if you're spraying big quanities and/or for long periods it helps to keep the temperature & therefore pressure in the bottle regulated so that the correct amount of fuel & NO2 is constantly metered. Without a bottle heater, the jet ratios just need altering a little to compensate. My system should easily see 150hp without needing a heater (it won't though! 50hp to start) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knight Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Get posting X2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 turbo + nos will you modding internals dude WHY did you tease with a big write up and no pics you so crazy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NIKH25 Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 OK, the word slacker has been quite fairly mentioned; Peer pressure works then I like your philosophy, trying to follow that myself Can't help pushing the boundaries on it though eh, like adding nitrous Good sensible mods though, are you lowering it when you change the shocks or just sticking with standard mg stuff?I won't say anything about the pics I'm sure you're working on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_broon Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 cool - will be a beast that's pretty much what I've tried to do too... use the opportunity of something breaking to replace it for something better... looking forwards to seeing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay vti-s Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 YEAHHH we love pics! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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