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Honda Paul

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Everything posted by Honda Paul

  1. Honda Paul
    Only just seen your post, I'll find out on Monday about prices Alex
  2. Honda Paul
    I'd enter but I'm not going up against my Swindon neighbour Grant! Maybe nxt month
  3. Honda Paul
    Only just seen the post...... Have u changed the oil yet @Grant ? Weather looking good for 2moro so I could bring white'e over and swap the dizzy. I'm struggling to find free time at the mo as I'm trying to prepare for my mammoth European road trip nxt week.
  4. Honda Paul
    @Grant - awesome shot when opposite corner jacked up!
  5. Honda Paul
    What's your chassis Alex? I'll have alook and see how reasonably priced a new scuttle panel is
  6. Honda Paul
    Mod looks great grant Yesterday I just didn't have enough time to go home from work and then get the MB6 out,I'd been working all day and I felt the need to answere a fellow civ5 member In need was more important However I will be gracing the streets of Swindon in about half hours time, so I'm looking for trouble!
  7. Honda Paul
    Was great to meet you guys, hopefully I'll catch you at the next meet Nik Lol, luckily the rain stopped me rubbing through the paint Tom, I was hoping I'd find that some of the guys where as OCD about cleaning as I am, guess I'll have to confess to having issues
  8. Honda Paul
    I had the whole car set up when I built it, so around 500 miles ago. It's never been right since then,as I said it's all adjustable and there are no standard setting for camber as on the normal model it's non adjustable so everything I've done has been abit trial and error
  9. Honda Paul
    All I can find it is that you should make sure you put spacers on the lower part of the drop link so that it is at 90 degrees. The issue I'm getting is during high speed cornering the rear end feels like it wants to go straight on, and before any one asks - no it's not oversteer. This a lot more unstable and makes the car very twitchy After reading the comments I'd be suprised if it's the rear arb now, I may have to put the suspension set up back to standard and then see what's happens,I'm currently running adjustable camber front and rear and I'm hoping that it's something to do with that??
  10. Honda Paul
    And this is why I love Civ5 Ok so mine is the same as Nik and tom's. But yet the rear end of my car feels terrible when cornering at high speed. I thought it was due to the rear arb,specially as it only happens when the roll bar is at it's maximum torque. I've read on some forums that you should replace the rear arb drop links with the ball joint type so it can flex more, apparently fitting the drop links that me Tom and nik have can cause the chassis to rupture/split where the arb bolts to the body work?? Any one shed light on this?
  11. Honda Paul
    Ah so the roll bar link goes under the rear lower arm! That would explain why the rear of my car feels so wrong. I have the drop link facing up, with the roll bar above the lower arm, not down.
  12. Honda Paul
    Does any one have a picture?
  13. Honda Paul
    Is that the ones with the rubber bush at the bottom and the 2 pronged end that the bolt goes through?
  14. Honda Paul
    Can any one tell me what rear drop links they are using if you've fitted the MG ZS rear ARB??
  15. Honda Paul
    U mean the front one?? The front one is off a civic eg, again it had to be very slightly modified but it pretty much bolted straight in
  16. Honda Paul
    Thanks for the assistance so far, seem like my mud flaps are abit marmite'ish Majority seem to be keen though so I think I'll leave them on until japfest and then see what ppl think
  17. Honda Paul
    Cheers KiNK, yeh got car set up and rolling roaded, I'm pretty sure I put a post up but I'll have to check now. She made 186bhp but I messed up by putting a 2 inch de cat on instead of a 2.5 this has now slightly restricted exhaust flow,if I sort that then I'm told it should be 190 ish. Until I build my fully fledged Skunk head that is
  18. Honda Paul
    4 point strut brace came from 933 Motorsport, think they're from the Ukraine. It's for a integra, I have had to modify it to fit and the bottom legs where 20mm too short at the bottoms,I'm currently making a box section that I'll weld them down with. To be fair the main aim of stopping body flex is already achieved by the top bar, the bottom too just give it abit more rigidity think it cost me around 70 quid.
  19. Honda Paul
    I'm intrigued to find something out regarding my mud flaps?? On? Or Off? I'm still not 100% on wether I like them or not, I fitted them to protect the body work from chips etc and they do that very well! I cut them dead straight and even mounted them to the body work with thin pieces of rubber so they fitted snug and didn't rub/rattle on the metal. I'm just not sure
  20. Honda Paul
    Sorry, I should of read your first post more clearly, I asumed you had a issue with the actual speedo working, if it's electrical then it'll be the cluster. Check for bent pins etc if it's only since u played with it
  21. Honda Paul
    Ditto....... Different stud pattern! The 1.8 is the only civic (bar the EK type R) to have 4x114.3. All other civics are 4x100. So the discs wouldn't fit but callipers should ( in theory)
  22. Honda Paul
    That switch is only fitted to the VTI models, there's a speed sensor located on the back of the gearbox. It's very hard to see but it clips directly down onto the gearbox,it's prety much located straight down under your fuel filter. The sensor it plugs into is bolted in with one single 10mm bolt. The connector may have came off,especially if you've had a clutch done or someone's had one done and it's not been put back on properly. Try that
  23. Honda Paul
    If you've done it before you could do it in a hour but I'd advice u to take your time if you haven't ( nothing good ever came from rushing) If you put the window all the way down and pull the rubber out at the top then you should be able to pull each channel up from inside the door (they should just slide up) When cleaned and greased you can either remove the 2 10mm's on the window glass, pop the window out and insert the rubbers back in or as I do it - put the window half way up,grease the hell out of the inside part of the rubber (oposite side to where window glass runs) and slide the rubbers back down the same way you pulled them out. If your good then u can do all this without removing the door card at all but again that comes with practice. If the rubbers get caught then just drop the window a tad and that should pull the rubber down,then if you hold the run channel so it doesn't move and put window back up, u can then repeat this process until run channel is at the bottom of the runner. Again,hope this helps, good luck
  24. Honda Paul
    Motors don't slow down on these,99% of the time it's just the window run channels. U can either go out and buy proper rubber spray and lube the window rubbers or u can put a blob of fairy liguid in the run channel and operate the windows. Don't leave it though cuz normaly you'll end up either burning the motor out or bending the motor frame and the window will come out of the runners. All 5 of my civic 5 doors have had this issue I'm alittle OCD about these things so I removed door card,pulled the run channels out,cleaned them fully with brake cleaner and then greased the run channel where the window runs up and down. Good luck
  25. Honda Paul
    Carls looks tidy! Wheels look sweet
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