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Junior92

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Personal info

  • Name
    Ady
  • Age group
    17-25...Youngster!
  • Location
    West Yorkshire

Car info

  • Civic Model
    OTHER HONDA
  • Model code
    MB6

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  1. Hi all, been a while since I've been on the forums, not sure if people still use them but I'll try my luck anyway. So I have an mb6 vti in which the original b18c4 engine was removed due to bottom end knock. I stored the car away until I find a replacement engine. Fast forward 2 years, progress has been really slow due to covid, losing job etc other commitments in life so I've been driving eg civic which was d16z6 auto, I recently broke the car due to failing mot on rust. Still not able to get a replacement b18c4 engine due to too much going on in life, I came up with an idea what if I do d16z6 swap in mb6, I know it sounds silly but it's not a hard swap considering it is obd 1 vtec and I just wanted to get the car moving as I hated it been sat there doing nothing. So I actually went and fitted the d16z6 into the mb6. Was pretty much an easy swap, got the car started too. Only issue is the speed sensor plug does not fit because it is for auto and now I've got manual gearbox. I used the manual gearbox from mb2 and used clutch and flywheel. However I have an issue with the car not engaging into gear. I'm able to select gears but the car won't move, not even at bite point, doesn't even stall if I let off clutch pedal in gear. Would this be due to using a used clutch kit because I'm sure I was told I can use it. It was only meant to be a temp solution until I get the car moted and sort everything else out and then do a proper build such as turbo. I really hate having to take off the gearbox again and possibly again to fit uprated clutch kit depending car passes mot. What could be the issue?
  2. Hi all, need some advice as I think I have made things worse. Was happy about getting the mb6 back out on the road after being stood for years. Long story short, car started up fine with jump start and I took it for a run for 10 miles and all seemed good, no funny noises from engine. I thought I'd give it an oil and filter change so started the car and let it run for 10 mins then gave it a gentle rev, heard a weird squealing noise from the timing belt area which found to be the timing belt rubbed against the plastic cover and shredded into millions of pieces. Checked the timing marks and all seemed good, belt did not jump which was a relief. Problem started when I fitted new belt as I forgot to put spring on tensioner, and I rotated the crank counter clockwise 3 times as stated in the manual not realising that the crank had jumped two teeth from tdc. I put everything back together then started the car, it did struggle to start and when it start, the engine was knocking, I must've let it started for about 10 seconds then turned it off as I knew something was not right. This is when I realised that the timing belt was put wrong by myself. So now I'm worried whether I have caused any damage, like bent valves or even damaged piston. I don't have a clue how to take the head off myself but I was told I can take the spark plugs out and rotate the crank manually to see if there is any knock/slap noise but I'm not certain is this is quite the way to tell for a bent/damaged valve or piston. I'm still learning these engines but now I'm s**tting myself, I made things worse :(
  3. hi all, i done a b18c4 swap on eg and i was wondering if it is possible to de-immobilise the stock p9k ecu to get the car started or is it too much hassle? Also can i use a friends p30 ecu which is mapped but on a b16a2 turbo. i just want to get the car started by my friend is worried his ecu may change settings or something and not work properly when i give it back i've been told a stock p72 ecu will also work but could anyone clarify this is true? thanks
  4. Hi, I've had my MB6 for 3 years now and it has been stood for last 2 years. I just got the car out recently and got so much work to do, but first need to sort the leak on the roof and spare wheel area in boot. Both the roof and boot leaked ever since I got the car but I did manage to fix the roof leak but now it is leaking again and I never got to find the cause of boot leak. Here is what I have done so far. 3 years ago when I first got the car, I noticed the roof lining from front drivers side corner was wet. So I removed the roof lining, removed the sunroof drain tubes, poked a metal wire in. I then removed the roof strips and found a small hole on front driver side (where the roof lining was wet). So I applied lots of tiger seal to block the hole and also along the whole roof strip area on both sides then fitted back the roof strips. I never put back the roof lining and for a year and half my roof never leaked. I then moved onto the boot so removed the tail lights, removed the tail light seals and applied clear silicone on both sides then put back lights and tightened up. I also removed the rear bumper and applied silicone onto the vent/flap thing from outside and also inside. This still did not fix the leak onto the boot. Now 2 years later, after moving the car. I have found the rear half of my roof is wet and also the boot spare wheel area is rusty. I have examined the boot leak and I suspect it is leaking from two areas. On the passenger side, just next to vent/flap thing, there is what I believe it passenger rear sunroof drain tube which is where the leak starts from. There is also a little bit of rust around that area on the arch but the car has been parked up so I doubt it could be the arch. Are the sunroof drain tube prone to cracks over time? I have attached a picture to show you what I mean. Now on the driver side, it's difficult to explain but after lifting up the boot seal, I found a bit of rust which is where I think it may be leaking from. I removed the boot seal completely to check if there is any rust anywhere else but thankfully nope, just on where I suspect the leak is. I also noticed that my tailgate hinges are rusty and cracked, could it be that water is passing through them causing the rear half of my roof to leak? Any help would be appreciated
  5. Started my mb6 the other day after a year of being stood, puff of white smoke from exhaust and back of engine for a few seconds which then cleared up, rattling noise coming from back on intake manifold which slows down when engine is warm so sounds like tick tick. The temp gauge will not go over 1/3 so its me thinking engine is not getting warm enough as vtec does not engage or is it because I have an alloy radiator. Forgot to mention I checked oil first thing before starting and there is enough, the oil is also 3 years old but only done 200 miles and also most importantly a few weeks ago I changed my manifold to aftermarket and noticed the last manifold port is stained in dried oily residue, not sure why. Can anyone help please because this car has been stood for 3 years and I want to bring it back on road this time and not leave it parked up for another year.
  6. I've got one of those Toyosports exhaust system off eBay for MB6 and the mid pipe is quite short as there is a gap between cat and mid pipe. Has anyone had this issue or have I been sent the wrong system?
  7. Has anyone hered turboed their MB6 and can advise me what is best way to go about this. I've been told to stay away from ebay £500turbo kit but don't fancy paying £2.5k from H Tune. I have collected a few bits so far, tubular manifold, braided rocker cover, oil catch can, aem fuel rail and pressure regulator, walbro 255 pump, p28 ecu, I know what bits I need but debating what turbo is good for atleast 350bhp and would you recommend running it stock engine or forge as don't want this to also end up as my brothers 350bhp scooby which blew up. Correct me Im wrong but do I just stick the turbo kit on B18C4 as most people tell me the engine is set up for turbo kit from factory? Also recommend me decent tuning places?
  8. Cut long story short, I hit someone from the rear and the top half of my car took a lot of impact so the slam panel has pushed inwards. Pic attached. Wings are ok. One headlight cracked but I've got a spare. Bonnet is totally destroyed. Bumper is scuffed. I do not wish to go through insurance. If anyone here is an expert, could they tell me if this is repairable and if I need a new slam panel, I could obtain one from a breaker but what would average cost a garage charge to cut off old and weld in new? It's an MB6 VTi-S which are quite rare so that's why I want to save it.
  9. My civic has been off road for almost a year and just recently I've got it out. I went for a short drive and noticed my brakes are grinding when driving and squeaking when braking. The discs and pads are pretty much new, only changed them a couple miles before car went off road. Is there any way I can stop this noise without having to replace brake discs and pads like clean them up and what products can I use to clean them up?
  10. Does anyone have helpful links on tutorials that show step by step on replacing the intake manifold gasket? I normally follow eric the car guy videos on YouTube but for this particular job, it seemed way too difficult to understand. Do you actually have to get underneath the car to do it?
  11. Ok I need help again, was putting back the throttle body so I could take the car to garage to get them to check it but as soon I started it up, it idles at 2k and after a minute it goes above 3k. I rechecked everything and found a hole in this hose pipe which I think causese vacuum leak. Also I lost all my coolant whilst the pipe was disconnected So now I need a new hose pipe, does anyone know how to check what size it is or what way can I temporary fix to cover the hole?
  12. Yes mate, every time I start it up, a puff of blue smoke comes out from exhaust and then loads when on VTEC. I have some other issues as well, misfiring and idle hunt. Every time I start up, the rev needle shoots up to 3k and stays there for 5 seconds then slowly within 5 seconds comes down to 1.5k and idles there. Whilst idling, I can see black gunk spitting out from the exhaust. Once the temperature needle is at 1/4, the idle needle revs constantly between 1k to 2k. The temperature needle doesn’t go above 1/4 so I think car is fully warmed up by then. I’ve noticed oil leaks from a few places, I’ve taken pictures to show. Also is that a crack I 've got on bottom right of throttle body or is it normal? I’ll borrow a compression test tool off a mate and then check. Like I said I'm not really a mechanic but would love to learn.
  13. I went to remove my induction kit so I could change the filter and I noticed bit of oil inside throttle body. I just wiped it off. Then a week later I went to check again if there's any oil and unfortunately there was. So I removed the whole throttle body and found the oil comes from intake manifold. Now I'm not really a mechanic so I don't know what is happening here but a friend of mine told me there shouldn't be any oil near the throttle body so obviously something is wrong here. My car though does burn oil on VTEC, quite a lot I would say, about 2L per 500 miles. I don't know if this problem could be related, so could someone shed a light on this? I plan to get my car rebuilt in a few months but is it safe to drive like this?
  14. Thanks all but prices are ridiculous from Honda Might go scrappy instead and hope I get them free
  15. I broke one of the clip that is under the wing where the bumper hangs on to, so now there's a gap between bumper and wing. I tried looking for the clips on eBay but don't know what's the proper term to search, all I get is those plastic rivet fastening clips. Can somebody help me please
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