Alastor

Good news, I tried to ask directly to meister r and they provide a really fast answer (yesterday at 1.25 am ) The MA03S will go from around -25mm to around -75mm range. You can extend that range by adjusting the springs pre-load (the car can go higher), but that is around the rough range from OEM ride height. That's all, although it's not clear to me how much the springs pre-load (basically affecting the static position of the piston along the damper stroke) can be used for the purpose of increasing ride height without deteriorating the damping quality. However I guess that a 5mm compression should be accetpable, so maybe that a -20 mm ride is feasible without any drawback. That said, I suspect that the only way to verify is to buy them

Thanks, that would be great!

Pardon the intrusion @Dave, i'm too interested about the point, as i'm evaluating the CRDs for my MC2. Can i ask you what do you approximately mean with "a bit lower", as it is highly subjective? -10 mm, -20 or -30 or even more? For me it is a quite important point, as the CRDs seem perfect in terms of quality, potential handling and tuneability but I absolutely don't want lo lower it more than -20 mm: I need some ground clearance for daily battle operations if CRDs can't fulfill this requirement, I'll forcely go for handcraft regeneration&stiffening of the stock dampers.

OK, so this theoretically means that I can run up to 350 miles before really risking something...I will verify it soon (I will keep a fuel can in the trunk, in the doubt... )

Hi, one strange problem... My MC2 fuel consumption is of about 11-12 km/l (something less than 34 mpg), for an average range of about 430-450 km or 270-300 miles. This means that, at each refuel, I put about 40 l into the tank...and also in the most desperate cases when I thought to be really out of fuel, with the gauge pointer less than horizontal, I never succeeded to put in more than 41-42 lt (11 gallons)... Is this normal or my fuel gauge has some problem? The car datasheet claims for a "huge" 55 lt fuel tank, but I really can't see where this volume would be...

I had the same problem on my MC2 some month ago. I replaced the battery of course, but I didn't solve anything. After a more careful inspection, however, I finally found the problem, as the solderings between the LED pins and the electronic card inside the fob were damaged. I simply re-soldered them and the fob came back to life immediately (obviously with its inherently poor range due to its IR technology...)

Hi guys, ok it's time to fix the problem. To be honest, I got more than 5000 km from july to date, the noise is still there but apparently it's not worsening...it's annoying, but it's probably not turning in a true failure. Nevertheless, I bought the car to enjoy its drive and therefore I would want to fix it anyway...after some surveys through the net I identified the following options: 1 - OEM Bearings are tapered roller bearings 91005-P80-003. Pros: safe fitment Cons: about 200€ for the complete set. 2 - Alternatively, according to a lot of people around the world, it is also possible to convert the gearbox to the ball-bearing design, by getting the 91005-P80-E31. Functionally equivalent, far easier to find and far cheaper too (less than 100€), but they need specific shimming and I'm not able to find the right shim kit. 3 - Morover: Syncrotech from USA is offering a specific (and also cheap) conversion kit http://shop.synchrotech-transmissions.com/Differential-Ball-Bearing-Conversion-Kit-ITR-GSR-BITRC.htm which comes complete with the preload shims that, according to the manufacturer, "fit in most cases (90%)". The risk here is to fall in the 10% case where a more specific shimming is required, and then to have the car stopped while searching for the right shim. In the end I'm probably going for option 1...any suggestion (or more convenient shops)? Thanks!

This is also possible. But are you speaking about those bearings? If yes, they seem affordable with less than 160 gbp. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-DIFFERENTIAL-BEARINGS-DC2-B18C-EK9-B16B-/162102811303?hash=item25be149aa7:g:LzEAAOSwI3RW-ZK2 Moreover, although they are described as correct for the LSD gearboxes, I see that they are conventional ball bearings, not tapered bearings as shown in the S9B workshop manual. Will they fit?

Ok, this is exactly the same conclusion I reached thanks! I tried to email the supplier yesterday but no response for now.

Hello everybody, it seems that some of my S9B shafts bearings is getting bad. The transmission started to give out a "weeeeen" while accelerating...at first it was in 5th gear at about 100 km/h, then it started to do the same in 1st and 2nd, now also 3rd and 4th are beginning. My intention would be to replace the bearings now, without waiting for a further aggravation of the noise. My question: is this kit OK for the S9B? http://www.tegiwaimports.com/select-car/honda/ek/drivetrain/mfactory-synchrotech-bearing-and-seal-kit-94-01-honda-integra-b16-hydro.html the S9B/MB series is not in the fitment list, but I guess that it should fit. Alternatively, can you suggest some other online shop (maybe with lower prices)? Thank you