AdzVTIS

Thanks man, I got the MeisterR anti rust spray too, also grabbed the damper extensions, make something cool to adjust from the rear speaker area. For like £20 the anti rust spray bottle was like 10cm tall, tiny! Hope it's good stuff. Waiting now for something to help me press out the LCA bushes, maybe a 6ton press arrives for my birthday. 😁

Thanks @Dave, anyone seen the newish series by Roverjoe on youtube? Damn, the initial rust on his arches and sills filled me with proper dread but he, for an armature, did very well! Still so crazy the inter swappable parts from the rover 45/400/mg zs.

Yo @dr_broon, damn man, my bushings are stuck TIGHT! Is the sleeve also supposed to come out? haha, I bought a bush press tool... broke it... did your bushes come out fine? I've seen some folk burn them and hacksaw the sleeve, seems end game tactics lol.

Hey Bro, Same with the one I wanted, common area. Poked and made it all worse haha, was the same on the other side, but the stability was still there, so a couple of small welds and used Isopon skin, high build primer, done. Got the other areas the side trim attaches to (in pics) back to bare metal, Jenolited everywhere, painted. Annoying at the time I painted gloss black to get it protected as nh605p was out of my dead budget! So check the side trim as it will have work for you :P You one looks better than mine, still be prepared as Kink says, that rust is coming from the inside out, you need to get at the source. If you love it and really want it, get it and sort it.

A weekend wrestling full rusted bolts... the ache of getting off the LCA's... horribly rusted and pitted 😔 Going to need some serious effort, any advise? Going to grind, use some high build primer and silver enamel paint, we will see... Thanks to Broon, getting the full strongflex poly bushes, thanks for the link bro.

What ever you put in, as long as it's with love, it's all great!

Sweet man, Spent the whole weekend trying to figure out what powerflex would work! Thanks again! Love the MB6 to death, but sometimes think a DC2 would have been easier haha! 😅

Yes Broon! Thanks for this! That full rear suspension kit is just what I was looking for! Nice link!

Sweet man, what shocks and coils did you go for?

Hey all, already done a load of restoration as getting it back to full N/A Glory before I consider ITBs. Just wanted to make a meal of this that arrived the other day, so happy! 🥰

Gonna guess your logins been hacked bro? Or you got a new side line business? 😁

Thanks for this man, appreciate the time to break it down. They do look sweet (AD08RS), It's like you said, the stiff walls give great feedback and give that feel of confidence I'm after. My VTIs is my beloved thing, only goes out of the hottest dry days, this year... 0 days out haha. So having the best dry performance is important, did I mention they also look cool? :P

Thanks Dave, thanks for the suggestion! Has anyone used the AD08RS? True about the weather, but only the finest of fine days does the VTIS get to go out ;)

Thanks man, I'll give them a look 🤔

Hey all! 3 years SORN... 😢 Got some cash, grabbing some MeisterR, getting the speedlines refurbed and power coated in championship white and... AD08RS... is what I'm going for... right? My beloved VTIs only goes out in summer on dry days, gets jacked, alloys off, battery out, garaged for the rest of the year. So I want great tyres that get love in use and wrapped up out of use. Anyone got any insights? I feel Yoko Advan AD08RS are legit tops, heritage dispite the drop in performance from the AD08 days, but lacking Toyo R888, anyone know of better and why? Any suggestions or fanboy throwins welcome ❤️

Yo, did they drop that dye in the recharge to check for leaks or pressure drops? Use the UV Pen about the system to see if somethings leaking, sometimes a leak can pressure lock the compressor.

Heya bud imho, dual rads are a terrible idea. They are both looking to dissipate heat, but when connected, if you feel the desire to move rapidly or it's a very hot day, the heat in the rad will affect the condensers ability to be effective, thus you would lose cooling ability. I guess it's like putting you home fridge in front of the radiator, if the fridge can;t shift the heat, the gasses can't re condense and the fridge loses it's ability to be effective. I think it would more be a limit to the age of the technology of the aircon, pressures used today are greater and condensers are far more efficient. I say delete the aircon, get a bigger rad and just drive faster with all the windows down! haha! I say when my MB6 VTIs still has it's full aircon :P

Heya, The worry is the light on after shutdown, it should go off. Mine had a poor after market alarm installed which caused the door sensors to short which was a mystery for ages as it caused a parasitic leech draining the battery. Has there been any mods you might be unaware of, any filled fuses that should be blank or odd wiring anywhere? Fairly sure euro codes are region wide? as opposed to US/JDM, 18 codes are super common, I think you can just unplug the sensor and do the multi meter test to check them. "Spin the Wheel: Carefully spin the wheel by hand while keeping the sensor detached but not removed. When the magnetic field strength (Hall Effect type) or the teeth on the reluctor ring pass by the sensor (magnetic type), you should see a small voltage fluctuation on the multimeter (if it is set to AC volts)." You could also check resistance I think, to see if it's shorted to earth.

Any smoke? Same happened to my old MB3 and saw a light smoke coming from the exhaust, barely noticeable but told me it's been running lean so I changed the fuel filter and fuel pump as my electrics and relays were fine. I think in a previous life it was turned over on an empty tank and damaged the pump. I first looked to see if the pump was getting the correct consistent power and there were no shorts occurring. After changing the filter, still occurred, changed the pump and all started to run fine.