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YRegMB

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YRegMB last won the day on February 7

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Personal info

  • Name
    AB
  • Age group
    26-30...not so youngster!
  • Location
    London

Car info

  • Civic Model
    NON HONDA
  • Model code
    OTHER CAR

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  1. I went with a MK2 Ford Focus in the end. There are still thousands of those listed for sale at reasonable prices. Both new and used parts are still very cheap and easy to find. The number of MBs of any age for sale seems to have fallen quite a bit even in the last year.
  2. I noticed this advert recently. It is not my car and I have absolutely no connection with the seller. It apparently needs a new exhaust system as the cat was stolen and they cut through the pipes. It also has an expired MOT. In my opinion that would be worth having and repairing for £350. It's no good to me as it is too old for the London ULEZ. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202109297922634
  3. Unfortunately I never did manage to find an MB. I had to replace my older car with something other than an MB as the head gasket failed. It wasn't worth repairing as it didn't comply with the emissions rules, and wasn't worth more than scrap price. I still look to see if any suitable MBs come up for sale locally. I may still buy one as a second car if the opportunity came up.
  4. This car came up a suggested item on ebay earlier. It's not my car and I have no connection with the seller. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284279266189
  5. Thanks for the reply. I know that 10.6 seconds 0-60 is not actually any kind of high performance number. My current car is an early 1990s 1.6l 4 Cyl. The given 0-60 time is 9.6 seconds for that particular model. It's a fairly plain type, but still seems to accelerate better than similar engine size newer cars I have driven. I knew someone that had a 2000 Nissan Almera 1.5l. That had a published 0-60 time of 13.4 seconds and always felt really slow compared to my car. As for the brakes, I have read that some newer cars have to be plugged into a diagnostic machine to change the pads. This apparently has to be done to put the ABS unit into a maintenance mode before the pistons can be pushed back without risk of damaging valves in the unit. I have no idea how true that really is. Are the rear calipers on the Aerodeck the self-adjusting handbrake type which require a wind-back tool? I have dealt with these before on another vehicle and the handbrake cable had to be undone underneath in order to release the tension to wind back the pistons.
  6. Thanks for the replies. I am interested in this particular one as it is the first 1.6 VTEC I have seen on a Y plate. Most of the others have been 1.4 hatchbacks. The numbers the original brochure gives for the performance of the 1.4 are underwhelming at a 0-60 time of 13.3 seconds compared to 10.6 for the 1.6 VTEC. This car is being sold as spares or repair by a garage/MOT centre. If it was closer I would go and have a look at it and ask how much they would charge for the necessary work to get it through an MOT. For the emissions I would first try a new air filter, set of spark plugs and the valve clearances. The state of the exhaust would be the next part to look at, then the cat and 02 sensors. Brakes and tyres don't seem like much of a problem assuming it is only the discs and pads. How easy is it to change these on a model with ABS? I have read before that pushing the caliper pistons in can damage ABS units on some cars. I have changed discs and pads before on an older car with no ABS so have an idea what that job involves. Are the manual gearboxes the same on both the 1.6 Hatchbacks and aerodecks? if they are, the easiest solution may be to swap it for another used box. If the car was legally driveable, that could be looked into later. Hopefully it is just the clutch bearing.
  7. A 1.6 VTEC Aerodeck that is suitable for my purposes as it meets the London emissions rules has come up for sale. Unfortunately It is almost 150 miles away with no MOT. That makes going to look at it a problem with lockdown and the risk of being fined. Whenever these cars come up for sale they are never anywhere near London. The mileage is 139,000. Seller claims the manual gearbox is noisy. Asking price is £300. It failed an MOT earlier this month on the list of problems below. Looking through its history it has never failed on any structural rust which is a good sign. These defects seem like they could be sorted fairly easily. Does this seem like it could be a worthwhile project? Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects): Offside Front Tyre has ply or cords exposed (5.2.3 (d) (ii)) Nearside Front Tyre has ply or cords exposed (5.2.3 (d) (ii)) Repair immediately (major defects): Offside Stop lamp(s) not working (4.3.1 (a) (ii)) Service brake excessively fluctuating both front (1.2.1 (e)) Exhaust hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b)) Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b)) Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c)) Exhaust carbon monoxide content at idle exceeds default limits (8.2.1.2 (b)) Repair as soon as possible (minor defects): Windscreen damaged but not adversely affecting driver's view (3.2 (a) (i)) Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories): Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i)) Fuel filler hoses heavily corroded Nearside Front Service brake binding but not excessively (1.2.1 (f)) Offside Rear Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement trailing (5.3.4 (a) (i)) Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened front (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
  8. Unfortunately not. The main purpose of the ULEZ seems to be to get rid of older diesels. No diesels made before 2014 are compliant. Only certain types made between 2014 and 2017 are. Everything after 2017 should be. I don't do enough mileage to really need a diesel. Especially last year and this year with lockdown where I only do about 8 miles a day to work and back.
  9. I would think that some form of restrictions will be coming for everywhere in the next decade. If not for that problem I would be tempted to buy this 1993 Accord. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Accord-2-0-i-SE/283801597920?hash=item4213e4b7e0:g:FBsAAOSw3LxdH4EA
  10. Thanks for the replies. The Type R would be beyond what I am willing to spend. As there is no way to tell what will happen with these restrictions in the future, it puts me off wanting to spend too much money on anything. The only thing certain is that the restrictions will get worse.
  11. Does anyone here have any thoughts on the 2001/2002 Accord? I have seen a few of these for sale in my search for a London emissions compliant MB Civic. There seem to be a few more of these still around as they seem to have been sold for a year or so later than the MB Civics. They can be found with 51 and 02 plates, whereas the very last MB civics sold have Y plates.
  12. It's a pain that it's done with a cut off by date registered. Anything registered before 1st March 2001 is non-compliant. Apparently that is the date that most car makers started to comply with the Euro 4 emissions standard for petrols. This apparently became compulsory in 2006. The auction already has 21 bids with five days still left to run, so it looks like it will survive for a few more years.
  13. Am I right that the D Series SOHC engines fitted to the MB Civics are designed in the following way? As far as I can tell, the valve cover needs to be removed in order to remove the top timing belt cover? I have changed a timing belt in the past on a SOHC D Series engine. I had changed the valve cover gasket before. I noticed at the time that the valve cover had to be removed in order to remove the plastic timing belt cover. While the valve cover was off, I removed the plastic cover and ground off the lip that fits into the slot on the valve cover. That way, when the belt was due, I was able to remove the plastic cover without needing to break the valve cover seal. It also allows the timing belt to be easily checked for condition without needing to remove the valve cover. I have seen aftermarket clear plastic timing belt covers pictured on the internet before. While that seemed like a good idea, I would think that it would soon get dirty on the inside. I also wonder how long they would last before the clear plastic turned cloudy. As an aside, what is the secret to getting a lasting seal on the valve cover gasket? I used a new gasket with sealant only at the corner points of the camshaft bearing cap at both ends. This was recommended by a Haynes manual. The seal lasted a couple of years but eventually started leaking oil from the corners of the end cam caps. Thanks for any information.
  14. Another suggested ebay listed car that is not suitable for the London low emissions zone. Not my car, and I have no connection with the seller. Silver 1998 1.5 VTEC MB. Has a few scrapes on the bodywork but the interior looks tidy. Low mileage at 68,000. May be of interest to someone here? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-1-5-VTEC-TOWBAR/324476569230?hash=item4b8c4f868e:g:XnUAAOSwFsxgHZa3
  15. This came up as a suggested item on ebay during my frequent searches for a London Compliant MB. May be of interest to someone here? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114653650026
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