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Jimbobs VTiS


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In that case it's gonna be a sensor. When you take the lambda out of the equation.

The ecu will ignore the sensors and refer to a generic fuel table.

It's highly likely that it's actually you lambda at fault Imo.

You do absolutely need to get the ignition timing checked aswell.

5 minute job and can make a real difference.

As Paul said even just try advancing it slightly see if the condition improves.

Or then try retarding it see if it improves. But ultimately get it timed up properly.

Lookjng af the casting of your new dizzy it looks the same as my aftermarket and mine is almost at full advance. To be where it needs to be. So I'd say your ignition timing is probably out for sure

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In that case it's gonna be a sensor. When you take the lambda out of the equation.

The ecu will ignore the sensors and refer to a generic fuel table.

It's highly likely that it's actually you lambda at fault Imo.

You do absolutely need to get the ignition timing checked aswell.

5 minute job and can make a real difference.

As Paul said even just try advancing it slightly see if the condition improves.

Or then try retarding it see if it improves. But ultimately get it timed up properly.

Lookjng af the casting of your new dizzy it looks the same as my aftermarket and mine is almost at full advance. To be where it needs to be. So I'd say your ignition timing is probably out for sure

With that in mind, which way would I need to turn it to advance it to check? Clockwise (towards the front) or anticlockwise (Towards the bulkhead)?

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:idea: buy a timing light and as said to it correctly and as above 5mins and £20 well spent.dont just do it random !! rulez.gif1

Daft question, where would one aim the timing light when it's for the ignition  :?:

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@Krzys

Advance anticlockwise.

Retard clockwise.

Aim timing light at crank pulley. There are 4 marks.1 is tdc. The other 3 are closely bunched at 14°,16° and 18°

16 is optimal.

Some timing lights have a display which would allow you to set the gun at 16° and use the tdc mark to time.

Cheap ones won't likely have that function tho.

Always use cylinder one nearest cam belt.

And your aiming to get that middle 16° mark in line with the mark on the cam belt cover. It's pretty obvious.

Also when you adjust link the 2 pin connector otherwise ecu will try make on the fly adjustments. And ya don't want that.

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Guest jimbob738

Hi Jake

 

Yes chip done its running very nicely still keeping the economy I got a good type r base mape p30 and went from there, IAB'S gone and vtecs around 4500-5000 somewhere there abouts, I got freelog running with the dataloger I bought and give AFR read out, fueling is spot on so pretty good so far, I got the Base map from here if anyone is bothered http://www.xenocron.com/bins/.

 

So no more buying sh1t base maps guys off H-tune yeah! I just gave you some of the best base maps for free........ Ha Ha Ha only joking use them as you will.

 

And sorry to correct you Jake but the new 2015 CTR wont have Vairiable valve timing just a straight 2.0 turbo Honda engine as they couldn't get the power output with the VTEC so they dropped it, I have heard/watched a few test vids of it on a track sound dull sadly.

Link here 2.0 turbo to replace high reving VTEC engines cry.gif1  http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/honda/civic/85978/honda-civic-type-r-2015-price-release-date-and-specs

 

but on the plus they have been working on the prototype of the new NSX not that I will ever afford one but still can dream.............

 

sorry I haven't posted any pics of my Skunk2 install had two big jobs the last few days (IT Jobs) been installing CCTV all day today at a care home in derby that's had Junkies trying to break in and nick the Medication off autistic Patients, I only charged £200 for a £1000 install coz im nice like that.

 

Knackered tonight having a nice cold beer.

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Guest jimbob738

reading on Jake into different reports the new civic might be a Vtec turbo I may be wrong............................................google what a reliable source of info (NOT)

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