mc2hammer

thanks for that. pretty sure the spare rotor arm I have has a screw hole as it is gen honda and quite old now. though I will need a new bolt/ screw to secure the rotor. dizzy bolts look quite meaty so "should" be ok. dizzy will, presumably, need marking to get timing right again when refitting, though it could prob do with the timing checking as it sounds like it is pinking under load. something else I need to get sorted, any ideas if it is not the timing ? knock sensor issue perhaps ? are there any "how to"s on this topic (timing/ tuning etc) ? I will have a look at access with air box out, but this job will be fiddly so best done on a bench. I guess a complete new/ refurb dizzy is the other option, but would like to keep the original one if poss.

sorry no pics of spam for you spam lovers, but Yokohamas good if you only need dry grip ?

Strangely no replies on this but an update, for those interested. Well I got her going and now starts fine again. I don't think anything was wrong as such, as it had been running fine, so I just cranked and tickled the throttle until it eventually caught and started. But, as well as the plugs, I did change the dizzy cap and cleaned up the rotor arm with a needle file which looked tasty. So I'm sure this all helped. I have had a new rotor arm and have been meaning to change it for some time, but not able to get old one off as bolt is seized. A common problem I believe. I have read that cutting off the rotor arm, which is just plastic largely, and getting needle nose vice grips (aka mole wrench/ pliers ) on the exposed head of the bolt is the way to go ?? Another issue is that the dizzy cap lower bolt is particularly exposed to the elements and has sheared, leaving the threaded hole in the distributor blocked. It will need drilling out carefully and re-threading/ tapping but, due to location, that looks like it has to be a dizzy out job ?? Emissions was fun again this year btw, MOT tester says cat has to be really hot and is too far back, so a new one wouldn't necessarily help. As usual, any thoughts/ feedback on any of this is always appreciated folks !

My trusty and, so far, very reliable Aerodeck 1.8Vti refuses to start :-( It turns over/ cranks but doesn't fire. Have fitted new spark plugs and checked a spark is present. Fuel pump runs for 2 secs as it should when ignition is switched on, and there is definitely pressure as evidenced by fuel present at the outlet of the fuel filter i.e. input to fuel rail. So must be the fuel injectors ??? either all faulty (hard to believe) or not receiving their control signal from the PCM. MIL is not indicating a fault code / DTC is present. I can check injector resistance but it's not going to be all four. I could check a pulse is getting to the injectors using an oscilloscope ? I am at a loss - I guess something could be preventing the PCM from pulsing the injectors, (e.g. faulty sensor) but wouldn't that trigger a DTC ? Any ideas please please please folks ? thanks

Thanks, ordered yesterday and part has arrived already, so can't fault their service. On initial inspection it looks ok, fingers crossed all will be good and will fit etc, but was assured by J&R it was the correct part for the vehicle, so can do no more than that.

thanks both, are you happy with J&R then dr_broon, you must be if you have fitted them twice, only I have read some rather mixed reviews (they seem too cheap ?). AKR Performance have TrakMotive part which costs 3.5x the J&R part but, if you reckon the J&R is ok, then I might as well stick that in and give it a whirl, so to speak. I'm hoping to fit it myself, as the job doesn't look too difficult (famous last words) ?? As per title of thread, I only have the VTi not Vti-S btw, if that makes any difference, I need to correct my profile description.

This has just happened to me. Driver's side has snapped, looks like at the damper (apparently goes rusty under them and cant be seen, and is a well known issue according to the recovery man) Found this post on the subject (link below) Looked up J&R looks like they still do them for the car. There are 3 available, 2 outers and an inner, obvsly need to replace the snapped OS one but I guess would be sensible to do the other (near) side too asap as clearly this is a weak spot and is an accident waiting to happen. do i need to do inner as well though ? for now though just want to get her running again to see if anything else has broken. shouldnt have done as it happened at low speed / moving off. and can select gears ok still. Cheers for any advice from others that may have suffered the same. It seems like it's a common issue though ? Old post I know but any update on this - I have just got an issue that the recovery driver reports as being snapped driveshaft, sounds like this damper could be the problem ? will inspect and have a look under in the light hopefully tomorrow. Just been on to J&R looks like still available, 3 parts available, inner and 2 outers, should/ do I need to replace all 3 ? is the damper just on the outers ? I'll probably do a new post tomorrow with more info

thanks for that Dexter, yes got the scuttle off ok - well enough to access under and check for the dreaded tin worm at least, roof rails are next on the list to check under the gutter trim. also would like to remove the front wings, anyone know how easy it is to get these off ? hopefully just bolts, once the various trims are removed ?

thanks both. do the front wings come off easily ? im looking at the front windscreen area at the moment, can you take the scuttle off with the bonnet in place, it seems to be held in by rubber mouldings by the hinges ? under the scuttle appears largely ok as far as I can see. for the windscreen itself , i have the two side mouldings off, the top moulding appears to be stuck though, it appears that it doesnt just unclip like the side ones ? looks like it is held in by a bead of adhesive. guessing could be screen out job to properly inspect the windscreen recess ?? the side edges of the screen were filled with muck, now cleaned out, looks like some attention needed at the at the base of the A pillar where damp has got under and lifted the body sealant. surprised no one has mentioned rear wheelarches, under the trim strips seems another spot that could go. also need to look in the gutter recess under the roof rails ? basically lift and look under / behind anything that can be removed ! keep the advice coming pls folks, it's all good stuff.

apart from this spot under the chassis by the front jacking point , and sills, hidden behind the plastic sill cover extensions, what are other common rust areas on the Aerodeck body to check / look out for ?

can you pls send me the link for the reds pls noodels, so i can check it out. Tried to check out the part number for my vehicle, but Reds do not seem to be standard EBC parts according to the EBC website ?? They seem to do every other colour though ! Are they actually genuine EBC pads ? Can they be used as standard road pads ? I also have a Vti Deck. cheers

thanks Koen, will check exhaust on accel / deccel, also planning to do a compression test. should tell me a bit more about the engine health in general. emissions are usually fine though. if it's burning a lot I would expect to see increase e.g. in HC levels, which I dont. will stick with the MTF3. fine with that, as I prob still have some left over from last change, so makes sense all round. Oil analysis is also done for older / classic cars - could be worth a go ? has anyone tried it ? also looked at use of additives, like STP oil treatment, but wouldnt risk in VTEC motor unless I knew it was ok to use. Again, all thoughts welcome ! cheers

Reading this thread with interest. thanks Oilman for the great info. Ive been running Mobil Super 2000 (X1 I think it is now) 10w-40 semi synth since 80 k(was Mobil S way back then) when I 1st took on the car and it's now at 220k, I change it myself using a genuine honda filter every 6k. I find it's using a bit of oil now, but nothing excessive, I meter it so i can confirm amounts if interested. would this be valve stem oil seals ? is this still a good oil do you reckon for me / us to use ? I need to to change the g/box oil again, used the genuine Honda MTF last time, but is your recommendation right back at the start of this thread for the Redline MTF still what youd recommend for a decent g/box oil ? could you post a link pls. Ive found it shifts nicely at this time of year but can be a little notchy in the summer, maybe needs a slightly thicker oil then ? Aerodeck VTI btw, with stock B18C4 engine.

thanks guys. sorry to here about the abs fault Dave. Yep nuneaton too far, ive found (hopefully) a good local welder who'll do a proper repair, that is what ive asked for, and dont think theyd just patch over anyway. mines not a VTi-s btw, sorry got carried away. just the VTi, will have to amend the profile. over 200k on the clock so past it;s best but goes fine. uses a bit of oil, but not excessive. would this just be valve stem oil seals ? will look in the engine section. did you get a good price, i dont think they fetch much though, prob worth more as parts ! e.g especially the engine + g/box, I'd imagine.

thanks Jake, haven't checked yet but had been meaning to lift the carpet, which isn't wet, AFAIK. The car is / has been for a long time stored in a garage most of the time, but is inevitably and occasionally used in the wet. I have sprayed wax inside the sections where the 2 bungs are in the photo and have left one of the bungs out, not sure why they're there TBH, as it must prevent this part from draining if water gets in there, from whatever route. What is the repair process btw, I presume cut out any rot and let in new piece and weld, but are repair panels available or (assuming they're not) one has to custom fabricate a new section from the appropriate gauge steel sheet ? Im hoping that, once I get the all clear on this / bodywork in general and know there is nothing terminal, I'd like to attend to some of the other jobs I'd like to tackle but have been putting off in case I'm throwing good money after bad, E.g. (sorry going off topic now) engine is ok but showing its miles and needs "fettling", so does anyone know any UK specialists where I can get this done ? I'm a newbie on here, will do a search or post a new thread elsewhere. All I know is that the B18C4 is (I believe) a much sought after power plant, so there ought to be lots of parts available for it to support a rebuild etc. Again, I guess it may not be worth spending loads on such an old car, but I'd just like to get it back to how I remember it all those years ago when I first got it. Although a bit more torque would be nice of course !

Great, many thanks for the reply Dave, in your case it was repairable then/ not terminal, that's good too hear, and do you still have the motor over 2 years later (judging from date of post) and the rust bug has stayed away ? I took the car in today for a welding specialist garage to take a look, now booked in to sort it, O/S is worst but N/S starting to go. they said they usually go at the rear sill, just fwd of the rear wheel arch, but when they take the sill covers off they;ll advise if anything else needs doing. At the front where mine has gone, same as yours, it looks like multiple panels meet at this seam (they used a technical term which Ive forgotten), and so I guess it's bound to go eventually. I also asked about the sill covers and they pretty much said what you said i.e. they slide fwds or backwards, so will try that. Thanks again for your help.

Hi I I know old post but was just wondering if you (or anyone with similar issue on their Civic/ Aerodeck) ever got this sorted, mine is going here too. (Drivers O/S, N/S no doubt will have same issue if not quite so bad) I have an X reg 1.8VTIs Aerodeck that I dont really want to die just yet. This was an advisory this year on MoT. I want to sort it properly if poss, get new section welded in, whatever it takes to make the old girl better again, rest of car underside is generally ok i think - just this part needs proper attention. Can you get a new panel / repair section ? or would one need to be fabricated ? I'm out of my knowledge/ comfort zone here. How do the plastic sill covers come off btw, Ive got the lower fixings out but I think there are 'hidden' clips retaining it still, does it just pull away, Ive tugged and tugged but it wont go, it takes some effort ! Is there a secret method/ knack ? Anyway, peering behind the sill cover, I can see the front section of sill is affected too and is part of this same panel which looks like it's rusting from the inside, it's going all along the seam, just like in the photos above, but maybe not quite as bad. Ive had a endoscope type inspection camera in the box section (through the holes blanked off by 2 blanking plugs in above photos), hard to see inside, but front looks not too bad, but rear towards where the affected seam slants in to meet the sill doesnt look so clever. Thanks all