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Engine Pinking- Update , chuffed adjusted timing myself !


stoatman

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i bought a box spanner made by a company called BETA for approx £14...used 5" mole grips and a screwdriver...its very important to use a driver which fits the screw....its so so fine adjustment...also had the bent shims...easier to use them individually rather than have the weight of the bunch to mess about with...

i figured place the shim in between the pad and cam then begin to adjust screw.....as soon as it flicks up then stop...too much and youll open the valve...you may have to do it 3/4 times to get it right...get it so its just nip tight and a little tug to remove...the key is consistency...torque spec is 20Nm....positioning for lobes for TDC on piston 1 and 4 have timing marks on the pulley to associate with the cams aswell as the arrows...but piston 3 is 9 0 clock and 2 is 3 0 clock...these have to be done by lining the teeth up on cams....measure them before you start to adjust them....

i went for .007 and .008...if you do these tight then you know its .006 and .007....im no pro so dont want to risk leaving the valve open...i better stop now.

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SO after using V power and the pinking getting better I thought it must be the timing and that it is a little too far advanced.

A few days ago I ordered a timing gun off ebay (15 quid new and am very impressed)and it came today so I thought right i'll have a go now. I have never done anything like this before but I thought I cannot really make anythin worse- I hope !!- checked the workshop manual , posted on here and looked on youtube to make clear what I am going to do. Whilst I am no mechanic I am very good at following instructions so wanted to be extra sure of what I was doing.

So , shorted the connector with paper clip under dash , started teh car and allowed to warm up till fan came on. Attached light and had a look. At this point it was amazingly easy to see marks and was worried about nothing before. It seemed a little off to my inexperienced eys , too far advanced !. I retarded the dizzy slightly and checked again. Spot on now , about 1-2 degrees advanced as I plan to run super/v-power for a while. Tightned all the bolts up on the dizzy and job done.

Well chuffed adn amazed how easy it was , what next I wonder !!

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  • 6 months later...

Hi!

sorry for diggin' out this old thread but I seem to have the same thing happening with my MB9... theres this light random chattering noise when there is load on the engine (particularly when driving uphill in lower RPMs)...

So, if understood correctly - that would be timing set off - I did suspect that and boy Im glad I found this topic :)

However, I do have a few questions here:

1) Wouldn't it be better to retard the timing a bit and just use regular 95RON? Or would it be (In terms of longevity and performance) better to leave it advanced and use higher octane fuel?

2) I read once (and again, confirmed here - you guys rock!), that one of the connector needs to be blinded prior to setting the timing - could anyone please explain which connector we are talking about here? More info would be great (...and pics would be superb :P)

3) So, to do things right one should move (=rotate) the dizzy in small increments - say, 1mm, then followed by a tryout...repeat if not improved = correct?

Im planning to do this soon - together with a bigger service (oil, filters, leads, sparks, even water pump, tensioner and belt...). I might also give valve clearances checking a go...

Thanx for the help!

Best,

F

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Hi!

sorry for diggin' out this old thread but I seem to have the same thing happening with my MB9... theres this light random chattering noise when there is load on the engine (particularly when driving uphill in lower RPMs)...

So, if understood correctly - that would be timing set off - I did suspect that and boy Im glad I found this topic :)

However, I do have a few questions here:

1) Wouldn't it be better to retard the timing a bit and just use regular 95RON? Or would it be (In terms of longevity and performance) better to leave it advanced and use higher octane fuel?

2) I read once (and again, confirmed here - you guys rock!), that one of the connector needs to be blinded prior to setting the timing - could anyone please explain which connector we are talking about here? More info would be great (...and pics would be superb :P)

3) So, to do things right one should move (=rotate) the dizzy in small increments - say, 1mm, then followed by a tryout...repeat if not improved = correct?

Im planning to do this soon - together with a bigger service (oil, filters, leads, sparks, even water pump, tensioner and belt...). I might also give valve clearances checking a go...

Thanx for the help!

Best,

F

i wouldnt turn the dizzy without a inductive pick up strobe light ?

you can pick one up cheap enough !

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