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MC2 Project - Chassis prep


DeLaSoul
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3 hours ago, DeLaSoul said:

Are you running standard gearbox oil?  I was wondering if you needed to swap out the oil at the same time as the syncros?

I'm not but only because of the MFactory LSD, but apparently I can actually run Honda's own MTF. Haven't tried it though.

 

Currently using Torco MTF.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another quick update, engine and suspension build underway and more wiring headaches!

 

Crank, new shells and shims in place.  ARP bolts all fitted and torqued down, crank turns smoothly

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Head build underway

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Rods ready for assembly to pistons

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New LMA's, guides, valves, springs and retainers all fitted

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Front arms back from shot blasting and powder coating

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New Energy Suspension bushes fitted ready for putting back on the car - a lot easier to fit than remove!

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Okay, the wiring.....  After much checking, checking and re-checking I thought I'd be ready to finish the chassis side of the Milspec and move onto the dashboard loom.  I was wrong.   I found a few issues that took me a little while to sort out in my head.  It looks like I had wired the Oil Pressure warning light to the ECU signal earth.  Easy fix, I had a bundle of wires all going down the same branch that I can swap around so just had to remove the overbraid and heatshrink, rewire and close back up with new labels, but I also took the time to add a MAP sensor and remove the IACV after talking to the engine builder and Maz at Hond-R.  Also needed to rewire the TPS as the pins were incorrect but that was a 30 second job

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Work on the chassis side of the Milspec

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Edited by DeLaSoul
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1 hour ago, Krzys said:

Good to see work on the motor progressing nicely 8-)

 

I think I'd lose what's left of my hair doing the wiring loom!

Cheers, wiring calms me down and keeps me focused.  I think in this case though I took too long between jobs and it then showed as every time I picked up the loom to do more work I'd forgotten how/what I'd done before!  When I do other people cars/race cars they're done in one go and are a lot easier!  

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Race car I did the end of last year, took 2-3 evenings but was a full front to back rewire and removal of all redundant systems..

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Also built a new fuse box, removed all engine and dashboard wiring that wasn't needed and sealed it all up ready for racing!  Always try and keep it as neat as possible so if someone else has to work on it later it's really easy to follow

 

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On 12/18/2017 at 8:57 PM, Dave said:

Started converting the how to guide into aq document and will upload it once done. Will also post a how to topic with this. Excellent work mate!

Exploded diagram of the caliper from the factory manual :)

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8 hours ago, DeLaSoul said:

Exploded diagram of the caliper from the factory manual :)

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Superb mate! Will add it into the word doc. Still a work in progress as been busy with work and now have hospital to contend with. Will get it done asap though and get it uploaded to the forum ;)

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On 1/17/2018 at 5:47 PM, Dave said:

Superb mate! Will add it into the word doc. Still a work in progress as been busy with work and now have hospital to contend with. Will get it done asap though and get it uploaded to the forum ;)

No rush from me, hope the diagram helps and hope everything is okay with you mate.

 

Just getting to work on the rear trailing arms at last.  Had to remove the rubber from the trailing arm bush but leave the shell behind to fit the Energy Suspension bushing.  Removing the center bar was easy and a sharp drill bit and a few holes took care of that, removing the rest of the rubber was a bit more time consuming.  I used a jig saw and a course blade to cut the majority of the rubber out

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Then a blow torch to carbonize the remaining rubber and pull it away from the shell.  It was easy to then scrape most of it off

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Cheap drill mounted wire wheel then took care of any remaining rubber

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Also attacked the rest of the arm with a few different wire wheels, sand paper etc. to remove any dirt and loose rust/powder coating

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After a wipe down with some brake cleaner, I etch primed everything and let it all dry in front of a small heater

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And applied 2 coats of Hammerite metal paint.  Had to do it in several goes as I couldn't hang the arm up due to the weight!

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Also started on the front control arms as they were already starting to flake in places from the factory paint job.  I've never seen paint so thick before, took a while to shift it with the wire wheel!

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Edited by DeLaSoul
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Top work mate. I really want to do this with DD too. Always been my plan to strip her down and paint/powder coat all the suspension and chassis parts. Making me envious seeing this! Lol

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