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Happy Christmas everyone! Hope that you're all having a great festive break! 🎄🎄🎄🎄

Hey people I had a few questions about the D15Z8 motor and using a D16Z6 head. First, the big connector on my D15Z8 distributor is a 7-pin, not an 8-pin like the OBD2 on a D16Y8. So, does this mean I can use the distributor on a D16Z6 head swap? Second I have taken off my oil pan and I have seen that on the bottom of the engine it says P2A does this mean this motor is a D16? And last if I use the Z6 head on my motor do I need to have an adjustable cam gear to make it work and how do I need to set it in degrease to make it work.

here few updates on car. did outside grill same colour as car and put stock lights back on. then had trip to westbay. decide to rebuild and change way the projector lights worked and looked. also fitted a coupe rear window spoiler. got lights sorted and back on and working. had 2 new front tyres fitted so removed tyre writting from rear tyres.

Hope you get sorted mate. Unfortunately there's a problem getting parts to keep these going.. Have to get creative sometimes with either other honda parts or mg / rover parts (or custom), but used is probably the best bet for body parts

It's sad there isn't any brand that makes new bumpers. Thanks for the help.

Strangely, just saw this post on Facebook https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=3617906711833990&id=1490055374619145

Unfortunately there'll be no new ones available, your best bet is finding a one that's being broken either on ebay or on Facebook.

I crashed my MB2, and the front bumper needs replacing. Where can I find a new one? I searched online and couldn't find any store that had new bumpers.

Done few more bits to car will put the pics up later

Nope just 1.4

I just bought handbrake cables for the MB6/MC2 models. They have rear discs and in the case of the MB6 are the exact same chassis as mine. Haven't attempted the actual swap yet, but I've got all the neccessary parts lying around already and am pretty sure that the MB6 cables are gonna work. And don't forget that you'll need different brake lines, as well! (Just the flexible part, though)

Okay, so it is possible, but quite difficult in practice. Nonetheless, this is the route I am going to take since the disc trailing arms I have are unfortunately bent. The spindles are in good condition so I will probably bring them to a specialist to be removed and later on installed. Wish me luck! Also, what did you do about the handbrake cables; I bought EG ones, however I am not sure if they will fit.

You are technically right about not needing the whole trailing arms, but good luck with both finding the spindles by themselves in usable condition and taking the old ones off. Finding parts like that is getting progressively hard as our cars start to turn into oldtimers, and most of these super specific upgrade parts have already been grabbed about a decade ago. We're kinda late to the party in that regard. The spindles are also secured to the trailing arms with extremely strong threadlocker, which oftentimes are pretty old and corroded on top, which makes removing them near impossible without drilling them out. Stripped a bolt attempting to remove the disc brake ones, even with applying heat and using rust remover beforehand. No chance. So, yes - you technically don't need them, but realistically you will. Except if you're fine with drilling all of the bolts out and dealing with that headache. And the part about bleeding the brakes is also generally correct. Most cars have their brake systems set up like that so you can still come to a stop if a brake line fails. Otherwise if you combine FR with RR / FL with RL you will only have working brakes on one side of your car, which I don't have to explain why that would be very bad.

Hi, are you sure you need new trailing arms? Upon a short google search, I stumbled upon this. " You do NOT need the entire trailing arm; ALL 88-00 civics and 90-01 Integras take the same shaped trailing arm. You need only the spindle, which is attached by a 24mm nut, and four T50 torx bolts. Please note that most swap the entire trailing arm because those torx bolts are in there VERY firmly. I have banged the hell out of a hammer and impact and still had them stay. I advise air tools, because even with all my weight and brute force, they may not come out. Brake lines may be stubborn if your car is older and rusty. The brake hard lines can strip easily if you do not use the proper wrench. A brake line wrench is what you need, which is a 10mm box end wrench with a slot cut out so that you can slide it over the hardline. You can use this on the bleeder screw too if you put the bleeder hose over the bleeder valve first so that brake fluid doesn't spill. On an EK chassis civic, the bleeding sequence is right rear, then left front, then left rear, then front right. Don't go in a circle, the EK chassis uses a crossed brake system, so go by this sequence to avoid any cross contamination of air into the lines, otherwise you may be bleeding all day. " Rear disc conversion, keeping the drum trailing arm | Honda D Series Forum Cheers!

Looks really nice mate 😎 @Dave 's fave colour for an MB 😁

See attached, will be posting some more in the near future about rebuilding my engine haha

Need to see the pics of this one 😎