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Hi guys, im looking for a new replacement main LH engine mounting as its failing for my 2000 MB3 D15Z8, its an alloy type just wondering if anyone would know if a FirstLine FEM3499 will fit as looks identical to mine, I'm struggling to find one! I have attached pics but not too good! The last one is a stock FirstLine pic. Many thanks. Nick.

Yes it is a before and after. It has great shine when throwing flash light on it ☺️

Is that wrapped in that last video? The shine looks awesome and the amount of metallic in it is amazing!

That's a whole lot of work you've been doing mate, hats off to you! Nice to see these Civics being pampered and cared for.

Sad to see you selling mate, really stunning deck that. If she does sell, be sure to point the owner here to the forum and our Facebook group. Would be nice to follow her progress.

Sorry for the delay, thanks Sir Paperbag/ Patrick ! I already have bright halogen H4s fitted, Philips, extreme/ race vision or whatever, as you say, theyre ok but still not great. the fog light idea is good, thanks. maybe with LED bulbs in there ? I have found some LEDs that look good, there are plenty available for not too silly money, will maybe try these but looks like might need to doctor the rubber boot, to clear the heatsink/ fan portion on these bulbs. I have cleaned the h/light lens as best I can, but have got a polishing kit to take out the remaining haziness, used just the polish so far but i think need to 'man up' and try the wet and dry. I see AKR have new units available from Depo at reasonable price, so that's an option. the other thing of course with halogens is to ensure the voltage drop is not excessive, previous car I fitted a relay kit, not an issue with LEDs as they operate from 8V. and current is lower. Re the switch it's ok at the moment so probably just needs a good clean with contact cleaner. below was the page I found, M series switch might be similar. thanks again. https://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/routine-maintenance-diys-73/diy-combination-switch-fix-headlight-switch-74275/

Follow this two flowcharts. First check if you have any DTC store for the ABS. If the ABS light doesn't start blinking after one blink, you don't have any error stored. If you have an error, check that first. If the light is constantly on and doesn't enter in the DTC mode, you have a faulty ABS Module. If you don't know how to read ABS faults, just check the manual in the ABS section. If you need more help just PM me and i will help you in Portuguese.

Hi fellas's Its been a while. Sadly I've come to a positio where I have to let her go. It's been one hell of a journey but this car has been sitting under a tarp for long enough now. I think I've done a fair amount of mods and I've learned SO MUCH over the past 5 years of owning this car. Sadly I've grown up a little, got a stock '99 accord that I use for work... Hinata ended up outside for a while, now she sits in our new workshop under a cover. Been sitting for a year almost and barely driven. It hurts to look at her so i've been trying to sell it for sometime now. This sunday someones coming over to maybe take her and drive her again. It's a shame but i've been neglecting this car / focusing on other things for quite sometime and I just can look at her anymore. It's been wild, thanks :)

Can you send me some photos of this part of the ebd. Excuse my ignorance but I didn't find anything about this in the manual on this site

Can you tell me which page of the manual this is on? I didn't find anything talking about EBD

Every 99+ Civic have EBD. Check the 99 service manual available on this site. In my case, the problem was the ABS Module. I change that and the lights were immediately off.

where did you see that from ebd

I have the same problem, the ABS and handbrake lights are always on. Where did you see that from ebd

To be honest, I've rarely even heard about these switches acting up, so my best guess would be either to just go to a wrecker or buying a used one from someone parting their M-chassis out. There are still enough of those around for that to be an option. And this is just speculation on my part, but I also noticed that pretty much all 90s Hondas share visually the same stalks, be it an EG or an NSX. So maybe that's another thing to look into. Regarding the brightness issue - I myself fitted some ultra bright H4s from Philips that are actually meant for motorcycles, and they are considerably brighter than the normal ones before. But that's still only an alright level of brightness, not neccessarily great. So I always also use my fog lights when driving at night, which really helps light up the periphery. And retrofitting HIDs and LED bulbs is... kinda sketchy and also possibly illegal, depending on where you live. But there are pretty nice LED ones on the market. So you only really got a choice between adding extra lights, getting the brightest H4s, or going down the sketchy route of retrofitting more modern tech into your M. Those 'Ultra Bright LED Laser Matrix Plus whatever' lights modern cars use are just so extremely overpoweringly bright that no matter what you get- as long as it doesn't outshine the literal f-ing sun, you're gonna get the short end of the stick. It's ridiculous.

More work recently completed: Over the Xmas period I decided to do a total suspension refresh on the MB4. I had wanted to do it when i built the car but time and finances were not available. I stripped all suspension off of the car, this took 3 days due to a few issues I encountered. Front end: Firstly, the passenger side front lower balljoint was original to the car, and 130k miles and 25 years had not been kind to it. I ended up having to cut it, and source another set of front lower arms due to how damaged the balljoint taper was. Polybushing all of the front components was a doddle. Whilst the steering rack was out, i discovered the inner tie rods were different to that of every other 90's honda, so unfortunately these were not replaced (I will be converting to a DC2 rack in the future). Reassembly was smooth sailing, until one of the weldnuts sheared off inside the subframe. This meant everything had to come out again (Joy!🥴) I had kept the subframe from my old MB2 (RIP P970NET , gone but never forgotten), so a quick spruce up and this went straight onto the car. Up front I now had Hardrace lower balljoints and tie rods, all bushings were now Energy suspension poly units, I fitted OEM replacement honda wheel bearings from Tegiwa, some skunk 2 upper control arms, and I serviced my Racing logic coilovers. Rear end: This was far more of a pain than I initially anticipated, disassembly was plain sailing, except for the inner LCA bolts snapping (The usual suspects!). Once these were extracted, everything was cleaned and thread-chased. The rear trailing arms were easy to replace the bushes, I opted for uprated hardrace OE style ones for a little bit more compliance. I fitted Skunk2 upper camber arms and some generic chinese toe arms. These were a nighmare to fit due to the locknuts being jammed in the toe adjustment slot, this unfortunately required some "creative" adjustment of the toe arm pocked to allow clearance. The rear LCAs proved the hardest part, due to my Eg/DC2 kit having too small bushes to fit in the outer ends, this required some overnight parts from Scotland to get the right bushes. The next challenge was the shock mount bushes, whuch were the correct fit, however far too wide to fit into my coilovers, these, again, requiring some creative adjustment with a lathe to get to the right size. Whilst the rear was apart I took the time to address a siezed slide pin on one caliper and a few minor exhaust fitment issues. End result: The car now feels brand new, and feels incredibly agile and fun to drive. Body roll and "wandering" around the road has been massively improved. The ride is a tad harsher but this doe not bother me. This was definitely worth the hassle, and didn't break the bank either, costing around £600 in parts in the end I would highly recommend doing this to your MBs if you enjoy spirited driving or B road hacking, its made my MB feel like a racecar! What's next? Next on the list for the car is an update/improvement on the current ICE setup, and some minor bodywork items, with long-term goals being the aformentioned DC2 rack and a replacement engine Unfortunately no photos from the build, however next time I get it up on a ramp I will take some!

headlight / indicator combo switch started playing up, result being lost headlights whilst driving, which is a bit disconcerting. found some info on how to disassemble the switch and clean contacts etc, if the one in the 'deck is the same, just wondering if anyone has tried this, or whether replacement combo switches available ? have used contact cleaner on the ignition switch several times when that has been iffy and that seemed to cure it. also on the subject of headlights, they are pants, especially vs. modern LED units which are insanely bright. I have upgraded bulbs fitted (of course) but what are the other options ? e.g. anyone tried HIDs in place of the halogen H4s ? I saw a thread on here where someone had fitted projectors into the original light units so that looks kind of do-able - maybe ! But nothing when you search HID on this forum - strangely !? Or are HIDs out of favour now because LED bulb replacements are so good ? that's the other option I guess. thanks

thank you Roverjoe, appreciated. I have looked for inner arches but seems just outer panels available, e.g. sills and outer wheel arch. so I guess would have to fabricate my own sections for the inner. have seen you can get Zintec sheet that looks good for the job. and, yes dr_broon, I have seen the thread, need to find time to go through it properly, but looks v helpful. thanks RJ !

Yes Simon thanks - very promptly in fact - they have said send it back and we will take a look, and either repair or replace. all very well but that means taking the darn thing off again and car is off the road whilst they take a look. ideally I would have another I could swap it out with. and of course this is driver's side so that is oil out job, unlike t'other side with the intermediate shaft (need to look at doing that one as well). I have since had another look at the offending part and noticed that the boot on the inboard joint side is pinched in one place, so Im wondering if this is the issue. it appears this is often caused by negative pressure - if so admitting air into the CV joint might be the answer. will see if there is any wiggle room under the gaiter clip to create a small air gap. AKR have some other (TrakMotive) not ridiculously priced driveshafts on their website that I had looked at before, but I went with the j&r as they were quick and easy (UK based) (and cheap). Cheers bud

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Update: The car is now getting fully wrapped by me since the paint isn't that good and of course some rust spots etc are getting removed....

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