All Activity

To be honest, I've rarely even heard about these switches acting up, so my best guess would be either to just go to a wrecker or buying a used one from someone parting their M-chassis out. There are still enough of those around for that to be an option. And this is just speculation on my part, but I also noticed that pretty much all 90s Hondas share visually the same stalks, be it an EG or an NSX. So maybe that's another thing to look into. Regarding the brightness issue - I myself fitted some ultra bright H4s from Philips that are actually meant for motorcycles, and they are considerably brighter than the normal ones before. But that's still only an alright level of brightness, not neccessarily great. So I always also use my fog lights when driving at night, which really helps light up the periphery. And retrofitting HIDs and LED bulbs is... kinda sketchy and also possibly illegal, depending on where you live. But there are pretty nice LED ones on the market. So you only really got a choice between adding extra lights, getting the brightest H4s, or going down the sketchy route of retrofitting more modern tech into your M. Those 'Ultra Bright LED Laser Matrix Plus whatever' lights modern cars use are just so extremely overpoweringly bright that no matter what you get- as long as it doesn't outshine the literal f-ing sun, you're gonna get the short end of the stick. It's ridiculous.

More work recently completed: Over the Xmas period I decided to do a total suspension refresh on the MB4. I had wanted to do it when i built the car but time and finances were not available. I stripped all suspension off of the car, this took 3 days due to a few issues I encountered. Front end: Firstly, the passenger side front lower balljoint was original to the car, and 130k miles and 25 years had not been kind to it. I ended up having to cut it, and source another set of front lower arms due to how damaged the balljoint taper was. Polybushing all of the front components was a doddle. Whilst the steering rack was out, i discovered the inner tie rods were different to that of every other 90's honda, so unfortunately these were not replaced (I will be converting to a DC2 rack in the future). Reassembly was smooth sailing, until one of the weldnuts sheared off inside the subframe. This meant everything had to come out again (Joy!🥴) I had kept the subframe from my old MB2 (RIP P970NET , gone but never forgotten), so a quick spruce up and this went straight onto the car. Up front I now had Hardrace lower balljoints and tie rods, all bushings were now Energy suspension poly units, I fitted OEM replacement honda wheel bearings from Tegiwa, some skunk 2 upper control arms, and I serviced my Racing logic coilovers. Rear end: This was far more of a pain than I initially anticipated, disassembly was plain sailing, except for the inner LCA bolts snapping (The usual suspects!). Once these were extracted, everything was cleaned and thread-chased. The rear trailing arms were easy to replace the bushes, I opted for uprated hardrace OE style ones for a little bit more compliance. I fitted Skunk2 upper camber arms and some generic chinese toe arms. These were a nighmare to fit due to the locknuts being jammed in the toe adjustment slot, this unfortunately required some "creative" adjustment of the toe arm pocked to allow clearance. The rear LCAs proved the hardest part, due to my Eg/DC2 kit having too small bushes to fit in the outer ends, this required some overnight parts from Scotland to get the right bushes. The next challenge was the shock mount bushes, whuch were the correct fit, however far too wide to fit into my coilovers, these, again, requiring some creative adjustment with a lathe to get to the right size. Whilst the rear was apart I took the time to address a siezed slide pin on one caliper and a few minor exhaust fitment issues. End result: The car now feels brand new, and feels incredibly agile and fun to drive. Body roll and "wandering" around the road has been massively improved. The ride is a tad harsher but this doe not bother me. This was definitely worth the hassle, and didn't break the bank either, costing around £600 in parts in the end I would highly recommend doing this to your MBs if you enjoy spirited driving or B road hacking, its made my MB feel like a racecar! What's next? Next on the list for the car is an update/improvement on the current ICE setup, and some minor bodywork items, with long-term goals being the aformentioned DC2 rack and a replacement engine Unfortunately no photos from the build, however next time I get it up on a ramp I will take some!

headlight / indicator combo switch started playing up, result being lost headlights whilst driving, which is a bit disconcerting. found some info on how to disassemble the switch and clean contacts etc, if the one in the 'deck is the same, just wondering if anyone has tried this, or whether replacement combo switches available ? have used contact cleaner on the ignition switch several times when that has been iffy and that seemed to cure it. also on the subject of headlights, they are pants, especially vs. modern LED units which are insanely bright. I have upgraded bulbs fitted (of course) but what are the other options ? e.g. anyone tried HIDs in place of the halogen H4s ? I saw a thread on here where someone had fitted projectors into the original light units so that looks kind of do-able - maybe ! But nothing when you search HID on this forum - strangely !? Or are HIDs out of favour now because LED bulb replacements are so good ? that's the other option I guess. thanks

thank you Roverjoe, appreciated. I have looked for inner arches but seems just outer panels available, e.g. sills and outer wheel arch. so I guess would have to fabricate my own sections for the inner. have seen you can get Zintec sheet that looks good for the job. and, yes dr_broon, I have seen the thread, need to find time to go through it properly, but looks v helpful. thanks RJ !

Yes Simon thanks - very promptly in fact - they have said send it back and we will take a look, and either repair or replace. all very well but that means taking the darn thing off again and car is off the road whilst they take a look. ideally I would have another I could swap it out with. and of course this is driver's side so that is oil out job, unlike t'other side with the intermediate shaft (need to look at doing that one as well). I have since had another look at the offending part and noticed that the boot on the inboard joint side is pinched in one place, so Im wondering if this is the issue. it appears this is often caused by negative pressure - if so admitting air into the CV joint might be the answer. will see if there is any wiggle room under the gaiter clip to create a small air gap. AKR have some other (TrakMotive) not ridiculously priced driveshafts on their website that I had looked at before, but I went with the j&r as they were quick and easy (UK based) (and cheap). Cheers bud

VID_20250121_152405_909.mp4

Update: The car is now getting fully wrapped by me since the paint isn't that good and of course some rust spots etc are getting removed....

VID20241227172242.mp4

Looks alright that, I can't put ine there now because of the flip out touchscreen. Damn!

Hi there, I got tagged, and thought id reply, Metal thickness for the inner wheel arches id recommend 1mm. Factory used 0.8mm so either them would do.

Not gonna lie, I didn't think it would fit this well! It barely weighs on the vent at all, since it sits precisely on top of the center console ridge, would recommend!

Regarding your audio upgrades I'd recommend getting a head unit that's not too deep, as I've had some issues with longer/deeper units before I got my Blaupunkt one. So, Ideally one without a CD drive, as those add a lot of length and therefore might interfere with the wiring loom in the back. You'll probably need some spacers for aftermarket in-door speakers, and the dimensions you're looking for are a 165mm diameter and around 18mm in thickness. For example I myself got a set of Hifonics Vulcan VX-6.2C speakers, which are a two-way set with an external crossover unit that I just taped to the inside of the doorcard, and the Hifonics tweeters perfectly fit into the OEM triangle tweeter units, at least if you carefully adjust the metal prongs that hold them in place. They sound quite good by themselves, but definitely lack bass. But I guess folks that want to upgrade their audio system are also going to get a standalone subwoofer, so... yeah.

@Roverjoe is probably best to answer this one having just done it - have you had a spy at his thread? https://civic5.com/forum/topic/12786-restoring-my-nana-and-grandads-honda-civic-mb6/#comments

I've not had this on mine. Did you hear back from j&r?

That looks amazing dude! The D16w4 is a solid engine and probably one of the best D series! (At least from what I know)

thanks both, what thickness/ gauge steel should I be using do you know ?

Hahaha, tell me bout it! Think I'm just getting/got old, but prefer really buttons. The pioneer is an amazing bit of kit too, has Spotify etc and nav via my phone. Can also change the colour of the display and buttons individually, so have got the led display set to an off white colour to match the dash. Can also customise the colours, so the keys light up in the exact same blue as the background on the speedo and rev counter. Actually looks pretty decent!

When I was looking a few years ago all I could find were outer panels.

Deffo mate, roads up here are shocking with mud, salt etc so she's staying well out of it lol