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Managed to get the tank out and in at the weekend with surprisingly little drama. Plenty of WD40 and the impact gun on the nuts got them going. From there I just followed the instructions from the service manual without any major difficulties. Tank was very dirty with some surface rust but under all the grot it was in perfectly good condition. Gave it a quick clean off with some WD40 and a wire brush. I am lucky to have access to a 2 post lift.. I can't imagine trying to do this on axle stands. I the fitted the following walbro 255LPH fuel pump that I purchased from Tegiwa https://www.tegiwa.com/products/walbro-255-fuel-pump-kit-honda-civic-eg-ek-integra-dc2 Forgot to take photos of the important bit, the pump... But in summary, it's almost a "plug and play" swap - the electrical connector was the same, only thing I really had to do was trim a little bit off the rubber hose that fed the pump as the body of the walbro is longer. I also opted to use the original filter "bag" from the stock pump as it was a different size/shape to the new one that came with the walbro and I read an old post on here from someone saying they fitted one with the new bag and the car ran out of fuel at 1/4 tank so I didn't want to risk it! Tank reinstalled and the car fired right up with no signs of leaks, glad that job is off the list. It's still a complete mystery to me why there is no access hole especially as there's a hole on the other side to get to the level sender! I was almost tempted to break out the hole saw and make one.. Weve currently got an issue with the engine overheating, I am hoping it's just an air lock (I've heard k24 swaps can be notorious for this as the radiator fill point is lower than a lot of other components as the engine sits a bit higher than the d series would've done), and we have some funky shape hoses. I've tried massaging the hoses and jacking the front of the car in the air to no avail. I've bought cheap a vacuum coolant filling kit that you hook up to an air compressor from Amazon for £40 so will see how I get on with that... Fingers crossed that sorts it.

Cheers mate, yeah so far its a blast, so flat and planted. I haven't had a chance to take it for a proper drive yet though. Need to get the Alignment sorted, so pondering getting some adjustable camber/toe arms for the rear first. Thank you mate, they're 15" 7J ET35, 195 50 15. I had issues at the front with this height when I had 15 6J ET45 as it rubbed the inner arches. So far no rubbing but I haven't been pushing it. It used to rub slow speed stuff when turning and bumps. I should have room to lower the rear also. Yeah I kinda loathe spending the money on the press buts its been invaluable. I remember doing one of the front arm bushes and thinking there's no way in hell I would've been able to do it any other way haha. Should pay for itself the first wheel bearing job. Yes mate, I did a quick write up of what I did here Ill grab some more photos soon to explain it better. Im intrigued about the bonfire hahaha

Fitment looks bang on - what spec is the wheels/tyres? I've not rolled mine and visually it looks OK but I've not driven it in anger yet so I may find out that I need to, we'll see I will eventually polybush all of mine, definitely need to invest in a press before I do. Getting just the 4x ARB bushes in with a vice was frustrating enough! Did you modify the factory seat bracket? I've been looking at the "Planted Technology" brackets for an older accord that seem to line up with the bolt holes for the MB, but i've not pulled the trigger yet. Unfortunately my passenger seat ended up on a bonfire (don't ask) so that rail is a bit worse for wear.

Looks great - did you change the mirrors and door handles? I believe they should be black on an MB2 (mine certainly were). They look much better body coloured anyway I think That Single DIN head unit is nice, what model is it?

Yeah, looking good, should make a big difference with the new bushes and arb.. It really made a difference when I fitted the MG arb to the deck (even the vti decks don't have one). Good luck with the tank, hope all the fittings are okay.

Hardrace rear lower control arms fitted and connected to the new ARB drop links - looking fresh! Although I do feel that the rear drums are shaming me! (They're on the very long list..) Next job for the weekend, drop the fuel tank to put a walbro in. (Not looking forward to this but then it's done). No idea why the pump couldn't be accessible through the cabin on these cars but never mind!!

Had a few pics from my father in law today who has been doing a few bits on the car Anti roll bar is on - there was a bit of confusion because whilst the brackets themselves are shaped symmetrically they fit on the car asymmetrically. If you put the brackets on the same on each side the ARB sits at a strange angle and the drop links don't line up (Once its completely fitted I'll probably make a post listing out all the parts you need as it's not particularly well documented online) After a bit of back and forth I did eventually find a photo from an unrelated MG forum thread that cleared up the matter. Here's how it looks now (notice how the passenger side is towards the rear of the car and the drivers side is toward the front. Maybe this is common knowledge but it was not obvious to me! Next job - fit hardrace lower control arms as the poverty spec MB lower arms are missing the drop link attachment point (plus the bushes are shot anyway)

Welcome mate 😎 Looks properly clean does that - low kms as well!. Almost looks brand new!

Hello to all of you, First time posting on the forum, kinda wanted to share a bit about my mb2 since i first came to find some knowledge about these mb chassis. It's my first car, family owned since new and it's getting to the 100k km mark, and in my two years of driving and enjoying the car i can say it's a great car and frankly very underrated and deserves a lot more recognition The car has nothing major done to it, it's mostly stock aside from some small cosmetics. The mods are: Front mudflaps out of a junkyard pirate black mb2 1DIN android auto radio Reuphostered steering wheel Rear spoiler out of a Rover I have many plans for it later but most of em are cosmetics and i won't bother to modify a D14, maybe just a intake at best since the oem one is plastic. It's getting lowered and i want it to ride on some ek4 vti rims, or civic jordan rims and vti lip is also in the list Cheer, Costa.

Wheels suit it mate, 👍

Looking great mate!! I can highly recommend this 2k clear spray for the headlights instead of an end sealer. https://www.marlowpaintsupplies.co.uk/2k-2-in-1-headligh-clearcoat-a-s?srsltid=AfmBOoo1LxQxl8VEhYvsmuG0kFjmCflsOD0QmbvwUwqEnJsCPrUhCWGO I tried a holts restoration kit but the supplied sealer was rubbish, didnt last a year. Sanded it all down again, used that clear and its looking the same after 2yrs

Looking good if I do say so myself! Headlights definitely letting the side down, need a good polish and coating.

Nice progress there mate.. I bet it's driving nice with the new bushes and suspension bits. It's sitting nice. Interior bits and bobs sounds interesting

That arb was pretty crusty before ey? My old one was worse for wear as well, not quite that bad though. I guess they're pretty exposed to all the road grot

It depends on the head unit. I know that some old Pioneer Head units are easy to hack. They have a 3.5mm jack input for audio controls and you only need a combination of resistance value for each button (vol up, down etc). Some others as JVC are more complicated as they need pulse modulation so you need to find or hack the code from remote control with reverse engineering. I dont know about new head units we have to do some search.. First of all you need to mount some switches on your wheel.and get or retrofit (if it's possible) the cable reel so that you can get 2 extra wires from it. That's what I am also searching for :)

Time flies doesnt it! So an update on the car since last time... Managed to get all the arms etc painted and polybushed. Thankfully id treated myself to a press last Christmas so that made life much easier! (plus who doesn't want a 20t press in the garage..). The supplied grease for the bushes is sticky AF and a right pain to remove when it inevitably goes everywhere though haha. So that's all been fitted, plus the coilovers & ARB's. Rolled the rear arch at the same time to try and sort any clearance issues with the ride height & wheels. Did plan on rolling the front wings at the same time buuuuut... far easier to yank it with my hands and do it that way. At the same time i fitted a new oil pan/gasket to sort an oil leak also. Got everything sorted, then on first drive there was a horrible squeak/squeal from the engine.. great, much sulking and swearing occurred! Happened regardless of clutch position and no chirping. Took the belts off to check and no difference. Initially thought might be a pressure build up internally (old oil pan gasket was leaking quite badly..). Changed the PCV valve (after much swearing and grazed knuckles), no change. On that test drive i realised it was now only happening when oil got above 80c and only when clutch pedal was pressed in, So, gearbox off, clutch + flywheel bearing changed and fingers crossed that is that sorted. Just need to finish bolting everything up and we'll see (if not im going to cry). Still need to sort the rust patches. A section is on the otherside of the sound deadening on the floor so that will need to be removed first, luckily i may be able to get some dry ice so that should help! While sorting that I've busied myself with stripping/ sorting the interior, basic run down is: - Chopped down the centre console so it doesn't go down to the floor and more El/EK-esque, Also removed the part which goes around the gearstick/handbrake. - Removed the cigarette lighter from centre console and moved down the heater controls, this gives me a place to fit some temp gauges under the radio. - Wrapped the interior loom with braided sleeve. - Swapped electric window motors to manual on the fronts (1 kg saving) - Removed window motors from the rear and now the glass is bolted in place. - Made some new seat brackets for the bucket seats to fit to the stock runners, all from 6mm ali so exceeds Motorsport UK guidelines (safety first!). Still to do - Fake suede wrap the pillar trims & centre console. - Make some door cards for front doors. - Wire in gauges/make centre console plate for this. - Remove that thick rubber mat on the firewall behind the pedals. - Still sort the rust! Cheers Dan. PS. Sorry for the ramble!

All looking good mate, those wheels should look great! The arb should defo help stiffen things up aswell. Doing stuff without a press is a right pita. I treated myself to one last christmas and it defo paid for itself when I did my polybushes haha

Bought a set of (very) budget semi-slick tyres "Accelera 651 Sport Xtra" from a company called Tire Streets that i'd seen advertised on various youtube channels. I don't have particularly high expectations as they were extremely cheap (£280 for a set of 4) but according to various internet comments/reviews they seem to be reasonable. I can always upgrade them in the future if needs be. The rubber seems soft which is a good start for a track tyre. Normally I don't like to order tyres separately to fitting (as usually the fitting cost removes any savings) but I couldnt find anything suitable supplied and fitted so I paid the local tyre place £15 a tyre for fitting and balancing which seemed reasonable. Look forward to getting them on the car soon... Finally got around to finishing restoring an MG ZS 180 rear anti roll bar I picked up from a friend a few months back. It was in pretty sorry condition but it seems like they are not sold new any more. Fortunately, you can still buy drop links, poly bushes, and all the bolts so it was just a case of stripping it down, removing the rust, painting it and replacing as much of the hardware as possible. The bushes were a real pain to install without a press but after a lot of farting around in the vice I got there eventually... For reference here's how it looked before (!)

Great, that means I am okay with the dash trims already. Hoping to find a badge and some mats in the meantime 🤞Just ping me if you want to get rid of that badge.

That's awesome! Would love to fit something similar to my aerodeck. I've fitted the 3 spoke DC2 integra wheel to it but would love the audio controls on the wheel. Is it difficult to add it?

That looks cool. Could do with that on my stepwagon as the radio is miles away!

I only want the CCswitch that match with the steering wheel if there is one and the cable reel with CC plug . All the other work is easy. Here is the audio controls that I have made in my last EK on s2000 ap1 steering wheel. All working for 10+years with no problem https://youtu.be/SSzox1OZ3PA?si=Zfc2L2NkCiWYsWUU

thanks dr, I'll try to find part numbers

Sounds like a good one then bud. Cheers mate. I'm on my second shell though unfortunately... Rust got the better of my first one. I got my resto done at classic and retro near Langley Park, but that was mostly chassis work. There's aldo a fella up near Throckley that I was wanting to get some work done on my wife's old accord, but he was dead busy at the time - GBR body repair. Looks like he does good work. If you're Newcastle way might be worth checking him out