All Activity

Just took a rather nerve racking first proper drive of around 15 miles to a local stainless exhaust fabrication place before work. I've left the car with them as I really didn't fancy driving any further with the noise level/fumes but I should get it back next week! I've asked them to make up a 3 inch exhaust, with a high flow cat, centre res and back box. I want the least restriction but I don't want the noise level to be too crazy and get kicked off a track day so we'll see what they come up with. Its definitely overkill for NA but we might boost it once day so it would be "future proofed" for that. Car for the most part drives fine - the only things I've noticed so far: - The steering is a bit off centre - it could be just the boss isn't on right but I think it probably just needs an alignment as we've had the front suspension apart several times to fit driveshafts, coilovers etc. The power steering is working perfectly though which was a big goal of mine as most people delete the PS on these kind of swaps but it's not pleasant to live with off the track. - The throttle is a bit "sticky". Sometimes it idles at 1200rpm and then if you pull the pedal up with your foot it settles down. I have tried to adjust it once before to no avail and I've checked the TPS is calibrated properly. It may need a new throttle cable as im using the 25 year old original one. - Just as I was pulling into the exhaust place the car started to run really badly and stumble. I turned it off and back on then it was fine. I did notice on my laptop that it is running very rich - I am hoping it's just over fuelling due to the o2 sensor being almost certainly too close to the end of the pipe (its just before the flexi and there's no exhaust after that point). I'll not worry too much about this until there's an exhaust fitted! - The front end feels a tiny bit loose but ive not driven the car enough really to comment fully. We haven't adjusted any of the suspension or changed any worn bushes etc at the front so I will reserve judgement until thats all done. But honestly, for a first proper drive it didnt go badly at all. No fluids leaked out or parts fell off!! Did get a few odd looks as frankly the car sounds ridiculous but that will be all sorted soon enough... My father in law followed in his car with a bunch of tools and a jack in the boot but luckily we didnt have to do any roadside repairs.

Coming along nicely. Looks ace in the shot. She's going to be a minter when you're done.

Also another thing I forgot to mention. I fitted MG ZS front calipers but it turns out that they were faulty, the piston was getting stuck. I did look at getting a rebuild kit and trying to sort them out but I found upon doing some research that certain models of Accord used the same front calipers. I found these for £60 a side which is very cheap but when they arrived, they are actually the original Lucas calipers but remanufactured (which is what I'd prefer anyway to a cheap Chinese copy in all honesty). NK 2126141 Brake Caliper NK 2126142 Brake Caliper They fit perfectly into the MG ZS carriers. The carrier brackets unfortunately seem to have to be bought used, luckily mine were OK with a bit of grease on the pins. Might help someone doing a similar brake upgrade - although it seems like I may have bought the last pair!

Yes the whole car is very clean all things considered to be honest. Cosmetic condition was surprisingly bad (been sorted now for the most part) with lots of silly damage to the interior/exterior and low quality DIY repairs but the chassis has held up well. I think its just a combination of luck, low mileage, and lack of sunroof. There's not really any significant rot underneath but a lot of rubber parts are perished. I've fitted new rear lower arms which were the worst (had an repeated MOT advisory for about the last 7 years for them .. obviously lots of attention being paid to that !!). The main areas that still need attention are the rear trailing arm bushes are pretty rotten but as the rear is on drums anyway I plan to get some rear disc arms at some point, paint them and press in new bushes to kill two birds with one stone, so they'll do for now. Managed to get the cooling system bled with the aid of the vacuum bleeder (very cool thing, I can highly recommend one if you are having issues with bleeding). I just got a cheap VEVOR brand one off amazon for £55 but the quality seems totally acceptable for occasional use. Had a very brief first drive in the car on Sunday. It's incredibly loud inside (as the exhaust exits basically directly under the gearstick) and outside too so I didn't want to attract too much attention hooning it about (it's not mapped yet anyway so probably best not to) but it drives great apart from a few expected bits like needing a wheel alignment etc. Next port of call will be to have an exhaust made up at some point in the next couple of weeks VTI-S front lip painted and skirts on properly now! Just need to finish painting the side trims and I think that's about it for the exterior.

Spot on. I'm sure these cars look better the older they get 😎

Tank looks in decent nick for the age - my first one rotted through years ago. I tried using new parts from an my for mine, but with little success as they were all the wrong size as well. Could be a weak point for parts for the future. The b series in these can also be a pain to bleed - one trick with them is to either park uphill or jack the front up.

Looking great!

All looking good mate! Interesting to know about the fuel pump, been pondering a replacement for mine. Hope you manage to get the overheating sorted and its something simple

Its been a long time since the last update. So yeah of course it is fully wrapped now by myself and lowered even more. Looks pretty good but for sure sometime in the future I might paint it (I'm currently doing car painting education) plans for the future: Turbo... I found a cheap kit on marketplace and then I'm gonna try and make a reliable stock internal setup, so not that high boost

Managed to get the tank out and in at the weekend with surprisingly little drama. Plenty of WD40 and the impact gun on the nuts got them going. From there I just followed the instructions from the service manual without any major difficulties. Tank was very dirty with some surface rust but under all the grot it was in perfectly good condition. Gave it a quick clean off with some WD40 and a wire brush. I am lucky to have access to a 2 post lift.. I can't imagine trying to do this on axle stands. I the fitted the following walbro 255LPH fuel pump that I purchased from Tegiwa https://www.tegiwa.com/products/walbro-255-fuel-pump-kit-honda-civic-eg-ek-integra-dc2 Forgot to take photos of the important bit, the pump... But in summary, it's almost a "plug and play" swap - the electrical connector was the same, only thing I really had to do was trim a little bit off the rubber hose that fed the pump as the body of the walbro is longer. I also opted to use the original filter "bag" from the stock pump as it was a different size/shape to the new one that came with the walbro and I read an old post on here from someone saying they fitted one with the new bag and the car ran out of fuel at 1/4 tank so I didn't want to risk it! Tank reinstalled and the car fired right up with no signs of leaks, glad that job is off the list. It's still a complete mystery to me why there is no access hole especially as there's a hole on the other side to get to the level sender! I was almost tempted to break out the hole saw and make one.. Weve currently got an issue with the engine overheating, I am hoping it's just an air lock (I've heard k24 swaps can be notorious for this as the radiator fill point is lower than a lot of other components as the engine sits a bit higher than the d series would've done), and we have some funky shape hoses. I've tried massaging the hoses and jacking the front of the car in the air to no avail. I've bought cheap a vacuum coolant filling kit that you hook up to an air compressor from Amazon for £40 so will see how I get on with that... Fingers crossed that sorts it.

Cheers mate, yeah so far its a blast, so flat and planted. I haven't had a chance to take it for a proper drive yet though. Need to get the Alignment sorted, so pondering getting some adjustable camber/toe arms for the rear first. Thank you mate, they're 15" 7J ET35, 195 50 15. I had issues at the front with this height when I had 15 6J ET45 as it rubbed the inner arches. So far no rubbing but I haven't been pushing it. It used to rub slow speed stuff when turning and bumps. I should have room to lower the rear also. Yeah I kinda loathe spending the money on the press buts its been invaluable. I remember doing one of the front arm bushes and thinking there's no way in hell I would've been able to do it any other way haha. Should pay for itself the first wheel bearing job. Yes mate, I did a quick write up of what I did here Ill grab some more photos soon to explain it better. Im intrigued about the bonfire hahaha

Fitment looks bang on - what spec is the wheels/tyres? I've not rolled mine and visually it looks OK but I've not driven it in anger yet so I may find out that I need to, we'll see I will eventually polybush all of mine, definitely need to invest in a press before I do. Getting just the 4x ARB bushes in with a vice was frustrating enough! Did you modify the factory seat bracket? I've been looking at the "Planted Technology" brackets for an older accord that seem to line up with the bolt holes for the MB, but i've not pulled the trigger yet. Unfortunately my passenger seat ended up on a bonfire (don't ask) so that rail is a bit worse for wear.

Looks great - did you change the mirrors and door handles? I believe they should be black on an MB2 (mine certainly were). They look much better body coloured anyway I think That Single DIN head unit is nice, what model is it?

Yeah, looking good, should make a big difference with the new bushes and arb.. It really made a difference when I fitted the MG arb to the deck (even the vti decks don't have one). Good luck with the tank, hope all the fittings are okay.

Hardrace rear lower control arms fitted and connected to the new ARB drop links - looking fresh! Although I do feel that the rear drums are shaming me! (They're on the very long list..) Next job for the weekend, drop the fuel tank to put a walbro in. (Not looking forward to this but then it's done). No idea why the pump couldn't be accessible through the cabin on these cars but never mind!!

Had a few pics from my father in law today who has been doing a few bits on the car Anti roll bar is on - there was a bit of confusion because whilst the brackets themselves are shaped symmetrically they fit on the car asymmetrically. If you put the brackets on the same on each side the ARB sits at a strange angle and the drop links don't line up (Once its completely fitted I'll probably make a post listing out all the parts you need as it's not particularly well documented online) After a bit of back and forth I did eventually find a photo from an unrelated MG forum thread that cleared up the matter. Here's how it looks now (notice how the passenger side is towards the rear of the car and the drivers side is toward the front. Maybe this is common knowledge but it was not obvious to me! Next job - fit hardrace lower control arms as the poverty spec MB lower arms are missing the drop link attachment point (plus the bushes are shot anyway)

Welcome mate 😎 Looks properly clean does that - low kms as well!. Almost looks brand new!

Hello to all of you, First time posting on the forum, kinda wanted to share a bit about my mb2 since i first came to find some knowledge about these mb chassis. It's my first car, family owned since new and it's getting to the 100k km mark, and in my two years of driving and enjoying the car i can say it's a great car and frankly very underrated and deserves a lot more recognition The car has nothing major done to it, it's mostly stock aside from some small cosmetics. The mods are: Front mudflaps out of a junkyard pirate black mb2 1DIN android auto radio Reuphostered steering wheel Rear spoiler out of a Rover I have many plans for it later but most of em are cosmetics and i won't bother to modify a D14, maybe just a intake at best since the oem one is plastic. It's getting lowered and i want it to ride on some ek4 vti rims, or civic jordan rims and vti lip is also in the list Cheer, Costa.

Wheels suit it mate, 👍

Looking great mate!! I can highly recommend this 2k clear spray for the headlights instead of an end sealer. https://www.marlowpaintsupplies.co.uk/2k-2-in-1-headligh-clearcoat-a-s?srsltid=AfmBOoo1LxQxl8VEhYvsmuG0kFjmCflsOD0QmbvwUwqEnJsCPrUhCWGO I tried a holts restoration kit but the supplied sealer was rubbish, didnt last a year. Sanded it all down again, used that clear and its looking the same after 2yrs

Looking good if I do say so myself! Headlights definitely letting the side down, need a good polish and coating.

Nice progress there mate.. I bet it's driving nice with the new bushes and suspension bits. It's sitting nice. Interior bits and bobs sounds interesting

That arb was pretty crusty before ey? My old one was worse for wear as well, not quite that bad though. I guess they're pretty exposed to all the road grot

It depends on the head unit. I know that some old Pioneer Head units are easy to hack. They have a 3.5mm jack input for audio controls and you only need a combination of resistance value for each button (vol up, down etc). Some others as JVC are more complicated as they need pulse modulation so you need to find or hack the code from remote control with reverse engineering. I dont know about new head units we have to do some search.. First of all you need to mount some switches on your wheel.and get or retrofit (if it's possible) the cable reel so that you can get 2 extra wires from it. That's what I am also searching for :)