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Nope. It's the same engine as yours - 127hp vtec but the japaneese version. It can be found in: del Sol 1996-the end Civic 1996-1998 Civic Coupe 1996-1998

Hi guys, I contacted the honda dealer, but he can't get them, only comes in a kit with oem honda brake pads. If contacted all4honda, a dutch webshop, and they can get the part for me, so i'm really glad Problem solved

hey thank you dave, the only thing i havent checked is the rings, will do that tomorrow. Yes noodels i have

You can happily leave the synchros and still get a great result, but I'm probably not going to be able to break them, challenge accepted! I'll try and sort some sort of video soon

Maybe you get a tube of toothpaste with every purchase

Thanks, i'll try that next and yes it locks and opens fine from inside

There is one on facebook, in the Honda ma mb mc enthusiast groups by a syed ameer Ahmed

Lol welcome back vtec never lets you go

You need D16Y8 intake manifold. It's the same as yours but metal so it will be plug and play. D15Z6/D15Z8 also works but you need to block the EGR. Also D16Z6/D16Y3/D16Y2/D16Z9 will work but will need some modifications of the coolant lines and you'll need their throttle cable. Adam's manifold is a very bad design, don't even think about it. Plastic intake manifolds have benefits too - less weight, smoother walls and they are heat isolated so no heatsoak

Dont be too humble alex not everyone is even willing to try n fix an engine so for you to be taking it apart fixing it and putting it back together is a gr8 achievement fair play sir

maybe an earthing problem? also when it happens next, try tapping the starter with a hammer while someone else is turning it over. my starter is on its way out

There is a port it's a little blue 2 pin connector. Can bridge it and read codes via the engine management light. as far as I'm aware even with an adapter cable. The ecu isn't really compatible with obd2 code readers.

Was it the entire distributor you replaced or just the cap? Main relay which you mentioned is another potential cause. Its a bit annoying because even though these do have OBD (Onboard diagnostic) ports, without it throwing a light up there's no codes to read. Try taking the fuel line off where it meets the injector rail and have someone crank the engine and you'll either see fuel coming out (be sure to catch it in a container!) or you won't. That'll give you an idea what to start checking next. If fuel comes out, it's probably ignition related (Plugs, leads etc).

Thanks a lot mate.. So happy the deck one on first nomination

UKDM ITR has same length B pipe as MB6/MC2 so that means you need to use the correct length silencer for MB6 or MC2<longer on MC2>hanger fitments same so would need to extend tail pipe if using MB6 silencer on MC2.<like I have just done>with cheep chrome pipe from shop>£6 An intgra Silencer will not fit without modification,the exit is in different place.

Likely droplink or ball joint. All can be awkward to inspect because once loaded with weight it may not be possible to move it but with all the motions of driving the ball joint knocks about. A pry bar is the way to check. Find something to lever off and try get the joints to move.