Leaderboard

I'm going to go for Jake's tasty turbo with its go faster button

Thanks Jake! Really love it, really nice to use. Was the final touch that Dawn wanted for the interior so had to be done!

Very posh that @Dave

No creaks from that area. However, while making sure the slave cylinder piston ball was located in the fork socket, had a push/pull on the fork and there seemed to be a fair bit of slack/movement at the other end (maybe worn ball joint you mention ?). When I get to the stage of replacing the clutch I'll make sure to replace the fork as well. Maybe the ball stud also if looking worn ?

The clutch thing is really common tbh. New clutch will improve it. The balljoint for the release fork wears aswell. can you hear a creak from that area when you press the clutch? Replace that and the clutch I'm sure it'll be good as new

Hi Dave, my own thoughts too on the clutch. Found a slight leak on master cylinder so ordered new master and slave (to be safe). After a long wait for parts to arrive from Germany (don't order from Autodoc if you're in a hurry) along with various other service bits, fitted those. Then ran into next problem - system wouldn't bleed properly. Tried everything including pressure bleeder but all I would get was "hard pedal" too early and would not go to the floor. After thinking that maybe I had got a duff new master cylinder or a blocked line, decided to dismantle the master end of the system. Whilst doing this found that I had not properly located the pin which connects the pedal to master cylinder (it is difficult to see what you're doing up there). Anyway, pin properly in place system bled ok. Improved the bite point a bit so had a look in the trusty Haynes manual (one of my first purchases) and found that you can adjust the pedal height (from the floor) - this was already at the correct height. You can also adjust the pedal freeplay - this is just how much slack you allow at the top of pedal travel (should be 12-21mm) before you start to move the piston in master cylinder - again, freeplay was already ok. In terms of adjusting the bite point, not much you can do on that. Its a combination of the two adjustments above and the adjuster bolts can only be moved by a max of about 2cm so doesn't have much effect on bite point. So, maybe my clutch plate is on the way out (?) but its ok for now. Rust - ah well - that's another story ! More later......

That is unlucky could happen to anyone. I went in August last year in my ford. Think we won the best mpg on a lap. Went flat out on the autobahn aswell.

Wow, what a bugger!! That's what kinda put me off taking the TypeR over to the ring, worried about the hassle of getting it home if it broke down or if really unlucky somebody hitting it while on the track. So decided against it. Good to see it all coming apart to find the culprit to the engine failure, and fair play to doing all that youreself mate!

Have indeed got the DC2 wheel in DD Basically plug and play guys, straight swap.

I'll get a photo uploaded to the forum home page tonight folks

Congrats @dmrichards

Sweet well done

And our first winner in 2020 is dmrichards stunning aerodeck! Well done mate, cracking civic you have!

i, had a very similar problem recently on my mc2 aerodeck recently which took days/ weeks to source. At first thought the source was low down and applied mastic to various seams but still didn't source it. Eventually, (after drying the area up every day) realised that the water was entering quite high up, probably inside a sealed interior panel. On my car, the next highest panel upwards included the boot side widows so had a look and the seal to the window looked perished on the top edge, so applied mastic to that top edge ( you need to apply masking tape to the painted areas around before you do this) and after a few days the leak stopped. In your case this is complicated by the the rust around the hinges but still, look higher up than you might think for the source of the leak......