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martinw last won the day on June 5

martinw had the most liked content!

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  • Name
    Martin Wright
  • Age group
    46-upwards.....Wise youngster!
  • Location
    Norwich England

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  1. The reason for the rust problem in this area is, I believe, due to it being the area that all water drains down to whenever it rains or you wash the car. Remove the 2 rubber bungs close together (in first pic) if you have them, and wash the car (or just the roof/windscreen area) on a dry day and you will see where the water comes out from. Its the holes in that area. Trouble is - the water doesn't fully drain away. Having rubber bungs (if you have them) in those 2 holes doesn't help, but even if they are removed, the water still doesn't fully drain away. The bung holes are flanged which doesn't help. Maybe its the way the car sits, but the water seems to sit towards the rear and then starts rusting away at at any panels inside that void. Design problem ?! I went through all this when I first bought my MC2 aerodeck and had rust starting in the same area as the first pics. Fortunately, believe I caught it in time. Removed loose rust inside, spray treated and resealed the whole void, treated and resealed exterior rust etc. But if its gone too far - serious job - not just a single panel replacement, multiple ends of panels would have to be cut out, fabricated and welded back in, treated and sealed. And this area is surely structural - with the number of panels meeting here, it's got to be - adding strength to the the whole suspension, subframe etc area. BTW its not just a MC2 problem. My earlier MB3 with 32k miles had the same problem starting .... so check yours, whatever the model !
  2. See dr_broon's later post about body seams under the roof gutter rails allowing water in, that makes it's way to the back of the car inside the body. One that I will be checking as my leak still isn't fixed.
  3. Never updated on this. Did go with Autoglass in the end. Guy came to the house, removed the screen. First thing we found was a corrosion spot and some metal missing from about a 2cm area at one side of the lower body windscreen surround. This was under the screen bonding. With the bond broken by the corrosion, flexing of the screen had caused it to crack. Guy said really that corrosion should be cleaned up and small piece welded in if I wanted a permanent repair. Obviously didnt have time for that and now the windscreen was out and looking like rain ! So he suggests (no guarantees) that what they usually do on small gaps is clean it up, spot paint repair, fill the gap with extra bonding material then put the normal screen bonding over the top. "usually does the job". So we went with that. Now onto my concerns about seals and clips etc. Mentioned the rubber dams. Had he got them ? Yes, he says but they aren't really needed. Asked him to put them in. Turns out he had a complete fitting kit that the comes from the windscreen company, including all the clips. But unless you are watching and prompt them, they are going to save time a replace the bare minimum. Turned out most of the clips were in good nick and only replaced a few. Not in the fitting kit was the side plastic trim. On mine the original had split. Had to be refitted as was. My only complaint about the overall job was that later this trim became loose and popped out every time there was hot weather. Still haven't got round to fixing it properly back in place........... Screen still ok, no sign of a crack reappearing, mostly all good
  4. Similar water leak problem on my deck which I think I discussed on a (much) earlier post. Still haven't fixed it but the suggestion of of a bad body seam under the gutter rail is worth investigating. Thought I had found other bad body seams. Open the back hatch and you will see in the 2 top corners of the body opening, seams that run vertically from near the roof to near the hatch rubber seal. On mine the seam sealer on these seams appeared to be dried out and cracked. So, applied some black seam sealer over the old stuff. Didn't fix the problem but might have reduced the leak a bit ?
  5. Have removed and re-installed vti-s side skirts on a vti-s but I dont know if the MB vti (if thats what you are installing onto ?) already has some of the fixings or mounting points. Have you got any clips and screws with your vtis skirts ? Should have 6 plastic button screws on the underside of the skirt. These button clips go into holes in the underside of the steel sills. Do you have those holes in the sill ? The vti-s skirts should also have a number (maybe 6 from memory?) of white plastic push-in clips that are mounted on the inside (centre) of the skirt. These clips push into holes in the side of the steel sills. Do you already have those holes ? If you dont have any of the above holes, you will have to drill holes of the correct size to fit the various clips. If you dont have any of the clips, there are copies of the genuine Honda clips on Ebay (I have used them). But if you dont have any of the clips, you will not know what to look for as often Ebay sellers dont have honda part number references. If that is the case, check out the genuine parts catalogue on parts-honda.uk. This has parts diagrams, part numbers and prices for British and euro (and others) versions. Check the vti-s version (sometimes listed as vti in their catalogue) of your car and see what the honda part numbers are for the clips. Either order them from honda dealer or the the parts-honda.uk website (they are about the same price- sometimes dealer is cheaper). Or use the Honda part number as a reference when searching Ebay, you might get some results. Anyway, once you have sorted all that out, the installation is quite easy. Ask again if you get that far. Best of luck !
  6. Thanks for the reassurance. If I was going to trust any company to do a proper job, it would be autoglass. You didn't happen to see if they replaced the rubber dams when they were doing it ? That's what I was most worried about in terms of leaks. But maybe autoglass have found that these are not necessary ? (from the diagrams, I can't make out what they are supposed to do)
  7. Got a crack in windscreen which has now extended beyond MOT limit, so looking at replacement through insurance. As on policy, have a choice of company, thinking of using Autoglass. Anybody have experience of using them (or other companies) for windscreen replacement on our cars ? Reason I'm asking is, have read the procedure in the workshop manual (quite involved with lots of possibilities of replacement parts needed), I'm concerned that the job may get bodged and I finish up with a windscreen that leaks and/or trim not replaced properly. For example, to remove the old screen they have to cut through not only the bonding material but also the upper and lower "rubber dams". To remove the upper windscreen trim (held by adhesive tape) they may have to cut that trim piece out. Would they supply replacements for any removed parts (?) or have they another way round this ? Side trim moulding is held in place with plastic clips (always prone to breakage) of about 7 different designs and there's about 10 of them per side. Plus another 4 or 5 steel (could have rusted) retainers for the plastic clips per side. Again, will they be replacing these if damaged/ missing/rusted (?) or do they have another way of fixing the trim back in place ? Should I be trying to source the parts that they are likely not to have ? I notice that quite a few people have had their windscreens replaced and so far haven't found any complaints. Maybe I'm worrying unnecessarily ?
  8. At least - you've got a 6 month extension on time for your next MOT !! (new gov regs for virus)
  9. Update As moving onto the brakes on the other side, decided to have a look at driveshaft/doughnut on that side before ordering new driveshaft - in case I needed to order two. As I already said doughnut on passenger side appeared good previously but wanted to have a really good look in case the corrosion had got in there too. Pulled the rubber back on the un-clamped inboard side of the doughnut and could feel a bit of flakiness to the paint but otherwise looked/felt good. Was just about to decide on cutting it open when noticed that when spinning the driveshaft back and forth, there was a distinct clunk from the inboard CV joint. As there was obvious slack in the joint and would need replacing anyway, decided to cut off the doughnut. Pics below are what I found...…. Pretty self explanatory, but the pics of the doughnut cut open show that there is a difference in design/construction between the bad one on drivers side and the good one on passenger side (don't know if they are both original but suspect so). The good passenger doughnut is much more flexible when you try to turn it by hand coz the outer ring is attached to the inner sleeve by a series of rubber ribs whereas the drivers doughnut inner and outer parts are connected by a continuous rubber ring (less flexible). Don't know if this affects durability. Anyway, what was significant to me was that on the edges of the pristine paint on the driveshaft under the good doughnut, the corrosion had already started (see bubbling paint). Give it some more time and you could have another weakened driveshaft with no exterior signs . Draw your own conclusions...….
  10. Amazing they missed this, after you asking them and undersealing nearby. The jacking points are easy enough to do but the area around the trailing arm bush mounting points not so easy - difficult to get at without removing the arm and depends how far away you have to go to find good metal to weld to. Could it be they knew it would be a pain to do and just left it ? Incidentally, on mine which is pretty good generally underneath, this is the only area (both sides) that had been previously welded. Having re-rustproofed the areas recently, had chance to have a good look at the welding. The area welded extends from the bottom of the inner arch to the inner sill and jacking points plus a bit onto the chassis, all interlinked . And a plate for the rear seat-belt mountings. In all, 5 or 6 plates - not a small job and repeat to do both sides. Thing is though, looking at the cars MOT history it failed on corrosion to rear suspension and seatbelt mountings - the next day (!) the welding had been done and passed its MOT. Both MOTs were at a Honda dealer, so maybe they did the welding ? Anyway - just shows whats possible in a day - never mind 3 months !!
  11. Thanks for the advice, will probably go for the J&R shafts when I get round to it (may not be far away, see below). Decided to cut off the damper, mainly to see what damage the corrosion had caused to the shaft, but also to better understand the construction of these things. First pic shows the damper after being cut off. There appears to be only one securing clamp on the outboard end and mine was still in place. So guessing the water gets in at the other end and corrosion starts? You can see where its been cut that there is a metal ring that is inside the rubber and goes all the way round the circumference. Decided to weigh the doughnut and it came to a surprising 10 ounces ! That's a fair bit if centrifugal force acting on the shaft ….. and (playing with the good one) this force is applied to quite a flexible rubber base where it meets with the shaft. Next pic is of the shaft after doughnut cut off and last pic of the shaft after wirebrushing. Worrying amount of metal corroded away from the shaft where the doughnut was. So decided to measure it - the normal part of the uncorroded shaft was approx. 26mm dia (with paint). The narrowest part of the corroded area was only approx. 19mm ! That means the shaft has lost 27% of its dia (and strength) at that point, and the corrosion probably goes deeper. No wonder these shafts can snap easily if corroded and put under stress..... Luckily, my car has been (and will be) off the road until mechanically good and I,m not having to use it regularly. But if I was using it daily, I would be worried about driving it with a shaft in this state. And who knows if the one on the other side (that looks good) hasn't also corroded underneath the rubber ?? Guess most driveshafts snap when pulling from a standing start (?) and don't cause too much damage underneath or loss of control ? But say one let go at 60mph when you drop down a gear (or two) - you've got two broken ends of the shaft flailing around at high speed and maybe a disastrous loss of control ? My own thoughts at the moment are that maybe there's a case for recommending that if your car still has the original dampers on the shafts, that you change the shafts to the non-damper (J&R type) asap.....
  12. Working on front brakes reminded me that I'd seen this earlier:- O/S "dynamic damper" (Honda parts list description) seems to have destroyed itself - see pics, N/S one seems ok. From reading elsewhere, seems this is caused by trapped moisture leading to corrosion on the shaft and that corrosion eventually causing possible snapped driveshaft ? On mine, although you can't see it clearly in pics, there are signs of corrosion to the shaft inside the doughnut (and it seems like the diameter of the shaft is less there than the rest of the shaft - normal ?). Anyway, my first thought was to cut this doughnut off, as it can't be acting as it should, the state its in. But, question is - if I do cut it off, is this going to cause vibration or other adverse effects ? (opinion seems divided as to whether these dampers actually do anything much) Next - as I'm now worried that I could have a driveshaft that is already weakened, looking towards replacing it in near future (complete with CV joints both ends). Looking at replacements on Ebay, found a J&R item for a reasonable price, but no doughnut/damper on the shaft. Anybody got experience of using these non-OEM shafts with no damper on their car (maybe in conjunction with the original shaft/damper on the other side). Any problems ? Or, if I replace one side with no damper, do I also need to replace the other side with no damper ? Also - do these non-OEM items generally come with the correct number of "teeth" on the ABS ring ?
  13. Great find ! Thanks …. Notice that Rimmer Bros also still has one side (RH) of the rear caliper shields but a bit more pricey at £28.20 They also still have the front disc shields (part no. SEC000100) at £34.20 each.
  14. Thanks all …. Would like to replace the rear disc shields but think its going to be a long term search for NOS, or by chance someone is breaking with some shields in good nick (unlikely? and can they get them off without damage?). Caliper shields (first time I've come across these on any of the cars I've worked on) - discontinued by Honda. Haven't got on to front brakes yet but suspect disc shields for those are also going to be poor - also discontinued by Honda.
  15. Thanks for that. To be clear, I am talking about the shields behind the discs, not the (plastic?) shields above the calipers. On mine, the caliper shields were already missing when I got the car. Bracket and bolts for these still in place (probably seized). Not intending to replace caliper shields. Believe I would only think about replacing disc shields if I was working on the hub/ bearings anyway. Meanwhile, will leave them off...…...
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