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martinw

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martinw last won the day on March 10

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About martinw

  • Rank
    Newbie

Personal info

  • Name
    Martin Wright
  • Age group
    46-upwards.....Wise youngster!
  • Location
    Norwich England

Car info

  • Civic Model
    CIVIC VTiS AERODECK
  • Model code
    MC2

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  1. martinw

    Rear disc shields ?

    Great find ! Thanks …. Notice that Rimmer Bros also still has one side (RH) of the rear caliper shields but a bit more pricey at £28.20 They also still have the front disc shields (part no. SEC000100) at £34.20 each.
  2. martinw

    Rear disc shields ?

    Thanks all …. Would like to replace the rear disc shields but think its going to be a long term search for NOS, or by chance someone is breaking with some shields in good nick (unlikely? and can they get them off without damage?). Caliper shields (first time I've come across these on any of the cars I've worked on) - discontinued by Honda. Haven't got on to front brakes yet but suspect disc shields for those are also going to be poor - also discontinued by Honda.
  3. martinw

    Rear disc shields ?

    Thanks for that. To be clear, I am talking about the shields behind the discs, not the (plastic?) shields above the calipers. On mine, the caliper shields were already missing when I got the car. Bracket and bolts for these still in place (probably seized). Not intending to replace caliper shields. Believe I would only think about replacing disc shields if I was working on the hub/ bearings anyway. Meanwhile, will leave them off...…...
  4. martinw

    Rear disc shields ?

    In the process of refurbing the rear brakes discovered that the (dust ?) shields were in a pretty bad state. Corroded but holding one side, almost falling off the other. That one, after leaning on it, did come off. Seem to be difficult to find (and Honda only have one side at over 40 quid) and to replace will prob have to remove hub/bearing. Securing bolt heads are badly corroded and no doubt threads will be seized - bolt snaps, then have to tap them out . Questions are - do people just leave the shields off in this case (apparently in the States/Canada, they do), and if so could it be an MOT fail over here ? If I do try to put them back on, is there any firm doing them for a reasonable price ?
  5. martinw

    Locking wheel nut removal ?

    Think if mine had the pin spacing like yours, would have had a better chance of getting them off. Guess Honda had a limited number of pin spacings available (almost like coding) and its just luck of the draw which ones you have on your car ?
  6. martinw

    Locking wheel nut removal ?

    Well - Success !! The guy got the nut off, took him about 2 mins. He used a high torque impact driver and a lump hammer and the original key. Told him that I had tried my impact driver (15 quid halfords special) without success. He said this driver was in a different league, cost about 100 quid and has so much torque it can snap sockets or the drive head easily. If that had failed he said he had other tools for pin-type nuts that would do the trick and rechargeable drivers with up to 1600 ft llbs torque. Didn't even damage the nut or key if I had wanted to re-use it (not). So if you have a similar problem, may be worth calling your local specialist (mobile tyre fitters come across these problems frequently, mine was the 3rd of his today). If in the Norwich area - pabrownmobiletyres - highly recommended !
  7. martinw

    Locking wheel nut removal ?

    As you say, a really dodgy/weak design. Especially for something subject to the weather. Once the chrome coating has gone, starts to corrode, then pin-holes expand with use. Gonna fail sometime. Wont be putting them (or any other type) back on. Just the standard OEM wheel nuts. Nobody nicks wheels these days ?
  8. martinw

    Locking wheel nut removal ?

    UPDATE (for now): Have contacted one of the local wheel nut removal firms. He's seen the pics and reckons he can get it off and has never failed (yet !). No call out charge if he fails. So going to let him have a go at it tomorrow late pm. £36 if he succeeds. Will watch carefully on what method(s) he tries and will report back on outcome.
  9. martinw

    Locking wheel nut removal ?

    My car came fitted with the OEM locking wheel nuts and the key (and a few spare standard nuts). While working on the rear brakes, managed to get the locking wheel nut off one side by being fairly gentle with the breaker bar but there was corrosion to the pin holes in the nut. Tried the other side (also corroded in the pin holes) and this will not move. As soon as you try to turn the key, it just slips. Tried the old trick of hammering an undersized socket onto the chrome cap that extends beyond the head of the stud. Very thin metal (I found out afterwards) and as soon as I tried to turn it, it just sheared the cap off. So now I'm stuck with this wheel nut I can't get off and can't move forward with brakes (and work on wheel arch). After this problem, thought I would try and get the 2 front ones off and managed those ok. First pic shows the problem wheel nut (the blue circle in the centre is the head of the stud). Second and third is another wheelnut removed earlier (also cap sheared off) giving a better view. And lastly, the key (there does appear to be some wear/distortion to the pins). Have had a look at local firms offering a locking wheelnut removal service and most of them only seem to have tools suitable for screwing onto bolts (rather than nuts) and most will still charge a call out fee if they can't get them off. I've just cancelled my RAC subscription, so can't call them...... So, any ideas/suggestions for getting this nut off ?? (Personally, think this is probably going to have to be drilled out with consequent damage to the wheel and/or stud)
  10. martinw

    Front bumper headlight washer cover trim

    Yeh, maybe worth a try on other so-called discontinued parts ?
  11. martinw

    Martin's VTiS Aerodeck

    Know what I said about not thinking about mods yet ? - well the slippery slope has already started...... Mentioned earlier that I had removed the corroded foglights. So started looking for an alternative, as some people were asking extortionate prices for secondhand originals. Recalled seeing that someone had fitted Ring lights so looked on their site and quite liked the look of their Ice Blue driving lights (BRL0368) and they looked the right oval shape to fit in the apertures. But could not find any retailer who had them in stock. So looked on Ebay, still couldn't find them. But someone had a boxed pair of Ring Ice Blue driving lamps under a different (earlier?) part number BRL04582 and luckily included pics of the box which gave dimensions for the lights. Looked like they might be a very good fit. So for 20 quid (incl post), ordered them. When they arrived, found the shape and size were nigh on perfect for the apertures. So next onto how to mount them. The old foglights had been removed complete with mounting frame (3 screws which came out easily). The top 2 mounting screws are pretty central to the original centre of the light and they are square to the front of the car. So thought if I make up some right-angle brackets to fit - see how they go with the protusion through the surrounds. Had already spliced the original connectors to the Ring wiring with spade connectors. Fortunately by leaving a little bit of slack on all the screw connectors the foglight surrounds went on first time with a bit of jiggling and the protusion looks about right. They are a clear lens with a dark blue/purple ring on the outer glass. Have tried them and they give a clear light but you can see the blue ring illuminated. Quite pleased with them …….. (oh, and the surrounds have been smoothed and sprayed)
  12. martinw

    dohc vtec sticker colour

    Thanks for all your replies, Dave - you could well be right with the "v-british grey metallic" being the right colour and they are available from Honda for about 30 quid (could return them if they don't look right - they seem ok with returns)…... But Jake - those light grey (non-metallic ?) stickers look fine on yours.... And Simon - which of the colour choices (not red obviously ) did you go for ?
  13. martinw

    Front bumper headlight washer cover trim

    I had 1 washer cover missing on my MC2 and although the parts-honda.uk listing says the washer assembly (cover not available separately) and the clip are discontinued, after a very helpful parts guy at my local honda dealers fed in the parts numbers into his system - he said he could order them and they would be there in a couple of days, and they were ! (this is only last month) Washer assembly part no. H76880ST302 , £34.84 Clip part no. H76882ST302 £3.85
  14. martinw

    dohc vtec sticker colour

    My car came with no door stickers and thinking of putting them back on. Its a pirates black vtis aerodeck and i'm looking for what would have been the original colour of sticker. Have looked at lots of pics of similar cars and they appear to be silver or grey or maybe even white ? Looked on the parts-honda.uk list for a '99 aerodeck vti and they have the sticker colour for a orleans blue car - "v-active silver" and for a cascade green pearl car - "v-british grey metallic" but nothing listed for a pirates black car. Anybody know what the correct colour sticker should be on a pirate black car ? (doesn't have to be exact colour as if original not available, will probably buy cheapo ebay copies)
  15. martinw

    Martin's VTiS Aerodeck

    Yeh, still finding dog hairs in the carpets and upholstery even though some of the boot carpets and trim had been cleaned before I bought it. Leather needs attention ….. Master plan is to first address the small amount of rust at front end first (working on that at the moment). Underside has been rustproofed previously (possibly by Honda dealer) and overall is not bad. Had the sideskirts off and sills are ok but they weren't undersealed so have done that and will be injecting inside sills. Need to also re-seal where the welding was done at rear end. After that want to go through the mechanics, cooling, brakes and suspension bringing them all up to scratch but leaving them standard for now. Then, on to the body...... So guess it will be a full restoration. Don't want to even start thinking about mods until I've at least got a reliable car that looks half decent as a baseline
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