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Rattle investigations today. There's been some clattering from the front end since getting the car back. I thought that it was the exhaust rattling on the h brace, but yesterday i noticed that it had got much worse from the front passenger wheel. Whipped the wheel off and had a bit poke around. Seems that my low profile jack is only just low enough to clear the new skirts... Also, seems that the car hasn't lost its ability to lift the front and back when jacking the front. Could hear the back lifting before the front Found that there was a bit of play on the top wishbone, so torqued both sides up properly - think that they may have been torqued to 3 door settings. Also found that the retaining clips for the front pads aren't there, and they can move in and out along the radius of the disk (probably in other directions as well) - going for a test drive afterwards, the rattling goes away when trailing the brakes. So got some clips from euro car parts for about £1.50... Crazy that such a small thing can make it sound like the car is falling apart! When I was down there, there was a lush Sierra parked outside.

Thanks for your words :) Yep, I have a love-hate relationship with this car, but it cost me soo cheap to maintain, confortable and it takes me a smile when I see Im capable to fix it so easily by miself... late 90's cars are like Legos. Love them. The screen I bought is from amazon (chinese) it has good response... in some cases freezes, but I think its my fault (I have attached a 16GB pendrive full, 2500 songs... and needs time to read ) I think I havent attached a very important pic. I was planing on installing steering wheel controls, I need to research for more info (the airbag ring must be changed and the steering rack doesnt fit fn/fk wheels... I think). Anyway, I installed this to have a similar experience controling the screen. I didnt move the warning/fog/clock because it was more work modifiying... I wasnt to sure it would end up well and you only will win 4-5 cm taller, it wont be really significant.

What a cracking project, and a lovely MB3 at the end of it. Loving the mods you've done mate, really brings the MB bang up to date and nicer to live with. I'm in the process of doing the double din conversion on my aerodeck. That head unit you've got is the same one I was looking at too! Love the fact it's nice and shallow so plenty room behind it. We really do struggle for room behind standard sized 1 din units in these civics, the dash space being really tight. So to fir a standard double din is tricky, so thats why I prefer the mechless (no cd player so smaller) units. How you finding that screen, reaction wise. Is it decent response times on it as it had mixed reviews? I'm still deciding whether I'm going for the same conversion as you, or going the otherway and moving the screen upwards, so doing away with the clock/hazard/heated rear screen switches. The switches will be moved to where the blanks are in next to AC button, and will rewire that style of switch to operate the hazard/heated screen. A lot more work moving it up, and it is really really tight for space but know it can be done. I want mine to sit further in than this though so will need to modify thing even more. Wanted it to be high so it's easier to see rear camera and navigation maps, feel that if its down where normal radio sits it might mean taking eyes of road for too long to see it?

Daft eh! The rears are still in though so no idea at what point they disappeared or what someone was thinking.

AHH mate yes. I had exactly same problem After I let Kwik fit put some brake pads on my old prelude to get it through the mot. Rattling all over the place but lightly press the brakes went away took me a few days to realise. They'd chucked the shims in the bin. Plonkers.

Looks about right to me however was some time ago I had it out.

Thanks mate! yeah, took a lot of effort with G3 paint cutting compound followed by G3 polish then autoglym extra gloss. should keep them nice for a while longer! Just noticed you can just see DD in the background of one of the pics parked next to "Effy", Gayles Nissan Juke

Loving this project, and well done on saving her from getting scrapped. Such a transformation from when you bought her and some really classy mods.

And... I took out the CVT trans and install a S40-P4F from EJ8. Last big mods where LCA, ASR, rear sway bar and Invidia G200Ti exhaust Now I have this waiting to install, but Im a bit lazy to take of the dashboard ...and I started collecting parts for the next upgrade: I found this couple at a good price (I'm going to sell the DC2 UKDM cluster) and I will install the JDM civic VI RS in my EK. Now that the EK9 clusters are so expensive (I remember paying less than 300$ some years ago) this option is similar and really good looking. I also tested to fit everything on the top mount manifold to see if I've got issues here too, and of course, I need to do some modifications. It looks really tall, I hope it wont hit on the bonnet. Next days I'll test fit. So, I was bored and cleaned engine bay & sprayed the valve cover. Car is waiting a certificate to be legal here in Spain, so until that I cant pass the inspection and I'm avoiding tickets... Modifying in Spain is a serius s**t to be street legal... I've sold the fake Skunk2 manifold and I'm porting the OEM D16Y8 to match a 63mm DC2 throttle body (same size of turbo pipping I'm going to use) and delete the FIA module holes for the inyectors. I've got a D16Y8 OBD2B wires that I will need to install because my D16Y5 intake manifold hasn't IACV and with the P28 I've read that check engine light will be on. I'm going to prepare it to do a little wire tuck, I want to change the location of the plug that goes inside in the left side. The 2 din dash its intalled and fully working. I also installed a 2 din android radio with dashcam, reverse cam, steering wheel control (goes under the turn signal/light control). It doesnt look a OEM fitment of a 20yo car. Looks younger now. Not as easy as expected, I used a drill and detailed with the dremel and ported to 63mm the intake manifold like the DC2 Throttle body. Thanks black friday for cleaning my wallet Gauge holder and gauges fitted, now I have to wyre ECU ready to use thanks to a friend Changed the radiator Bought a D16 to make a vitara build And started with the turbo fiting and measuring the pipes. This one I will cut and weld to use less silicone hoses I will need to make a custom pipe to link the compresor with the intercooler And the oil radiator will fit on the A/C radiator mount I swaped the intake manifold easily. I installed hondata at the same time and solved the IACV 3 to 2 pin conversion easily. Also installed the oil radiator and the oil feed for the turbo. All gauges are working. The boost gauge is useless at this moment but it was the time to wire the Innovete dual oil pres/temp, so I take a step to wire the Greddy one also. I painted the wipers and window-dont-know-name-in-english because they were all silver The chinese 2din died in only 2 months of use, so I bought another and I dont know why the hondata app doesnt run in this one The pipes are cut and done. I need to make some welds (the Ktuned IAT sensor adapter and the BOV adapter). I was lucky that the turbo side pipe was easy. 90 degre silicone hose- 45 degre pipe-135 degre silicone hose. And bended the pipes with these home made tool Changed the shifter. Now it feels really cool, gears engage real short and the hardware that comes to bolt it helps a lot to reduce the slack not like the previous chinese shifter Right now, car is "sleeping" I need to get time to find a shake when I go ober 130kmh and install the turbo kit for ECU tune. Text could sound a bit strange, I have copy-pasted from another forum. Thats all for now, I will keep this updated when I continue working on.