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Its going to be like a Tesla!

The mb is off the road now. pulling the engine to get block css'd and swap to a different piston. Keep toying with the k swap thing but I recon I'd miss the power. Been doing little bits as well when I get time, for example fitted some damper extensions so can keep a full boot trim and still adjust coilovers. And also modified an omex sequential shift light to fit in cluster which if I do say so myself looks like it was meant to be there.

Tucked away for a month now

Love the tablet setup that's great idea. Android auto is good.

That's one of the things that made me as about not worrying about fitting it in, you can see the big screens on a few new cars sticking out when you go past, and they don't particularly look out of place. Means that I can easily take the tablet out when I'm not in the car as well so no one gets tempted to give me lightweight windows.

So after trying the little 7" tablet a few times now, it keeps crashing on android auto mode, but it's quite old and under powered. So I'm going to be trying a bigger and newer affair... Still old, but not as old as the other one. Decided to keep it simple instead of butchering the console - especially now I'm going for the 10 incher - would need a much bigger hole (stop giggling at the back). The blu tac is just while in trying it out. I've got two magnetic clip things, which worked great for the 7" one, but aren't quite up to it for this one. I've stuck some 3m magnetic tape on the back of the tablet, but needs a bit more help. And yes, my headunit isn't in properly, coz I still need to get in the back to do more wiring, and it's a pig to get back out once it's locked in.

Many weeks later..... So, as in the SOS post, those clips were also wrong. Turns out all of the parts manufacturers catalogues all refer to these clips (according to the guy at the motor factors), so I went to honda with a refund in my pocket, and you can only get the clips with a set of pads. Finally got them fitted yesterday (one of the easiest jobs I've ever done on the car where nothing went wrong...) and it's like a dream now.... No horribly rattle when driving along - now it sounds like I've had all the suspension and bushes done, instead of it sounding like it was about to fall apart. The hardest part about the whole thing was trying to find out what to torque the wheel nuts up to. I've always just nipped them up till they felt right, but seeing as I had the big torque wrench out, I thought I might as well do it properly. I thought that it would have been all over the Internet.... It wasn't. Found it on a post from here though by @philgor good old civic5

I'd also have a try with DLS, Focal, Ground Zero, Rainbow or Helix in midprice sector. Remember that when price is rising, most of the rise is coming from quality of tweeter and crossover. With better tweeter, crossover point can be set lower and soundstage rises nearer the dashboard level from the feet. Of course for good stereo image, quality of tweeter is really important. And if lacking bass in M, it's because front doors are almost tinfoil, you'll get much more punch even from stock speakers with proper damping of front doors. In low volume levels should be remembered that cheap amps are usually having really poor specs, most quality head units (Pioneer/Alpine..) are having lover distortion levels and better channel separation than cheap amps. With higher volume levels plain power is making the difference, but with 10 real watts volume is actually really loud if not wasting power for electric bass boosts and all kind of bull s***. Prefer RIGID speaker installation and good damping makes the real bass. (Vibroplast, Dynamat, etc) In M:s front doors it's easy to cut a good mounting ring for 6,5" speaker from about 25mm thick plywood, take the outer lines from that original plastic speaker mount and mark the screwholes. Then cut properly sized opening for speaker, drill mounting holes and install. Mounting is easy to those original mounting points with a bit longer screws. Between ring and door i suggest using some rubber seal, i personally use just normal P-shaped foam seal which is made for windows/doors. All holes near speaker should be blocked and in half meter radius from speaker, it should be airtight, at least to cabin direction. With door damping, don't ever block the water drains from doors or use materials which absorbs water inside the door structure. Okay this wasn't any howto, just some advice to get some quality to sound. I'll be making some project from my MC damping next spring, but it's no going to be this basic. In MB I had some kind of sound evolution slowly, there I also used original speakers with simple damping for a while, and it was huge improvement compared to original.