hickster

Enjoy that thought!

x2 I would have said you have a slightly warped disc.

True- though I'd rather blue a set of oem discs than brown a pair of pants. Also in other internet hearsay news- I heard that any mods to your car are meant to be TUV approved and the do spot checks if anything shonky looking turns up? You know how Germans love to see the Eibach logo on things- just a thought!

Take a look at the cost of 17" track tyres. Drive out on your standard wheels then fit a set of proper boots in 15/16" or something to the driven axle before you hit the track is the conventional wisdom. Weight reduction is tricky on the aerodeck if you want to use it as a daily again when you return. It is easy to lose weight from the rear but this obviously will not help the handling. If you remove too much you will need fully adjustable coilovers to regain ride height etc. The best money you can spend is on making sure the car is in top mechanical order- apparently they will bend you over if you drop oil on track, dropping oil and not stopping puts you in serious sh!te and then they shaft you for the recovery cost. (so I hear )

x2 on not bothering with the intake mani. Front wheel drive / fairly heavy car- number 1 on your list should be decent rubber, a set of spare front alloys with R888's at least I would have thought. Maybe would go for zs180 stuff with good springs, uprated brake pads and fresh 5.1 and a decat?

This ^^ Tyre pressures depend more on axle loading than anything, though profile and construction will have a bit of an effect. I run 2.5bar front and rear (195/50/15 T1-R's) on the MB9 (unless the weather is really bad) for fuel saving.

I think there is. In the mean time get yourself about 1metre of clean garden hose and a funnel that will push fit in the end . As long as you have decent MTF you can't really get it wrong- empty the old oil out of the lower hole, then fill up through the upper hole until you can't get anymore in. The reason for the hose will become obvious. Some modern cars have a mag strip in the gearbox housing (I think Honda may be one of them) for exactly this purpose, I assume over time it would get fully loaded though.

Maybe your srs reel has given up?

Did you reset the SRS light as well as the codes? viewtopic.php?f=87&t=247&hilit=srs+reset

Your life.

It certainly can. Tramlining is dependant on the leverage between the contact patch and the ball joint axis. Wider tyres or different ET wil change this leverage distance. Changes to camber and roll centre can relieve the effect.

He means the plastic bodywork recess that the plate sits into not the background colour of the plate itself. Seen a few silver EK's with this done in matt black- looked ok. Isn't there someone on here who has carbon wrapped the recess?

I had a Unipart on mine when I got it- it was the size of a football and as far as I could tell was doing absolutely nothing to filter the oil.

I would go for OEM. If you order them online get three or four to make it worthwhile or get your cabin, air and fuel filter from the same place. I use Hamp D series oil filter myself but the jury is out on whether they are worth the money. Other oil filters are generally all only fit for the bin- they are not all the same. I am using Mann for the other service items at the moment- they seem ok but I wouldn't use them for the oil.

It is basically the same as an EG/EK H swap (lots of examples about). Unless you can custom manufacture parts you will be relying on Hasport still I think. When I looked before I thought a budget of 2k seemed about right including a the engine. http://hasport.com/store/index.php/moun ... /egh3.html You can get a decent prelude for about 1k and benefit from four wheel steer, semi auto box, lighter chassis and reasonable insurance for the performance. Although obviously you can't carry much around in it and it wouldn't be unique.

37 pages 37!

To put bigger brakes on the MB6 they just used the existing 'teg hubs and running gear. They also match up to the B18 driveshafts.

No all D series equiped M's are 4 x 100 and the offset is slightly different at ET45 stock.

I'm running one of those blue ones from ebay (which came packaged as Mine's allegedly) was about £6.50 delivered. Not done an oil change again yet so can't tell you how much it's picked up, did have to retighten it after a couple of months as I was a bit scared to crank it on hard originally. Tegiwa ones look like they have a longer magnet which may hold more, Skunk2 also do a decent looking set (for £30 though).

They are good- but pay attention when fitting some have the terminals euro style (opposite way round). Best not to fit while chatting to the other half then spend the rest of the day trying to source a new battery fuse like I did

Good work on the detailing, great to see one without rusty rear arches. The MA8 makes a great daily driver, personally I would extend the vti interior to the gear knob and steering wheel- makes a big difference and the centre arm rest is also a useful mod.

I'm equally suspicious of MC's and MB's- there's something not quite right about them.

Could be worth replacing the fuel filter. Vtec should be about 2500 in second on the z3 I think and you would hardly feel it. Try an ECU reset and see if any fault codes reappear. As Weetec says listen for gearbox noises and check for engine breathing issues. I take it the car idles ok and gets up to temp normally?

Your standard nuts are 'ball seat' type (all oem steelies/ alloys and replica alloys). Wolfrace I think use 60deg 'taper' seat type nuts like most aftermarket alloys. You need M12 X 1.5, you may need tuner nuts (internal drive- designed to fit in tight bolt recessess). If you search ebay for Honda wheel nuts you should find a few options- though cheap ones will tend to corrode and the pretty coloured alloy ones tend to strip easily.

With 18's you would probably need to run 30 profile tyres (£££££!). These alloys seem to be stamped 17x7 though looking at the pics so you should be ok.