Smitty_Works

so I found out the broken key has the chip in it for the immobilizer. I went to the junkyard and pulled a used ignition with key to try out. well the used one wouldn't work even with the matching immobilizer. so I switched the chips in the keys and it worked............. for about 3 hrs. now the ignition tumbler will not move or turn. its like its stuck in the off position. I even jiggled the steering wheel to see if that would get it help, no use. so now I guess its try and see if Honda can do something. I just don't know if they can with the chip and original immobilizer.

did that on accident when I 1st got the car. had to wait like 5 mins and lock the doors like 6 times

its the red key. it can open up all the doors. I could be wrong but it may have a chip in it. but it certainly will not start the car

bad luck follows me guys!!!! the only key I have. the other is my valet key

yes its time I took care of the issue at hand. yeah, I think its called de-tango or something. but I cant find it either.

oh no. I know how to polish my lights using M3 products. what I meant was taking them apart and cleaning up the insides. maybe painting the chrome bits and such.

btw @Krzys, do you know of the link on here on how to clean up the headlights? I don't think I am putting in the right search criteria.

moar holes=moar diesel powerrrrr!!! but seriously, yes it did. lol

I like it a lot. the interior lighting upgrade is a plus too. from boring to hell yeah son!!!!

everything is looking nice. I really like the pic with sun setting in the background.

so its been a while since I have been on here. really been busy getting my 4 door prepped for the K swap, and staying busy with the family and friends. kinda forgot about the Deck for a while as it wasn't giving me any problems. .............................. that is until recently, lol. I had to change out the alternator cause the vacuum pump for the oil feed was leaking. the turbo diesel rovers have a seal that can go bad on them. I was trying to figure out where all this oil was coming from, luckily I found the source. and today as cold as it was with the wind blowing I swapped out my old beat up rear muffler, that Honda doesn't make anymore and swapped in the Rover 400 5 Door Saloon muffler. the exhaust tip is a lil short, but I kinda like it. almost tucked in there look.

that's funny as hell man!!!

i would have to say that the previous owner had the harness pinched in the trunk channel. and over the years it just got worse and worse until it made contact.

finally, finally, finally found the damn culprit. whilst pouting about blowing fuses i started to take all my radio stuff out and found out that it wasn't the radio or radio harness. so i started from the trunk again. i unplugged everything from the trunk, door lock actuator, trunk door light indicator, wiper, all of it. i put a fuse in and turned the key and it was a instant pop. pop goes the weasel and fuse!! so i had that WTF look on my face. i then went to open the trunk. the damn trunk light came on. keep in mind all the stuff is unplugged. so i close the trunk and the light goes out and comes on. hmmmm,,,,,,, okayyyy. then it dawns on me. there is a boogie man in my trunk. naw jk i kinda open and closed the trunk just a little bit and noticed the light would come on and off. so i started to think that the harness is messed up or something,. and sure enough it was. so now i know what was really causing the headache so i spent a good hour soldering the wires and taking my time. used some heat shrink and electrical tape to reinforce the harness. replaced the fuse and plugged everything back in and its all good to go now!!!

don't get me wrong. its cool, but not my type of cool. lol stepping up my carbon game sir. i think its very subtle and will flow well with my recaro seats and spoon goodies

I a still hunting down this fuse blowing issue. I put a new fuse in today and just sat in the car. turned the power on and waited, and waited, and waited. eventually the fuse blew without having any accessories on. I didn't get a chance to check out the radio harness today. hopefully tomorrow. very worse case scenario is me pulling the whole car apart and putting in a new harness from firewall to trunk. but I didn't let that stop me from going to junkyard and grabbing up some spare parts and such. all this came from a 1,6 ESI. it was in good shape except for the door being damaged. plan on getting more parts from the donor next month. i think i am gonna mock up a fog light set up from the spare fog light block offs. I plan on swapping out the wood grain finish for the faux carbon fiber look this week.

I have some errands to run tomorrow, but when I get back I will check it out.

wassup man? nice to see another nwp resident here. its not too bad as long as you have the right sliders and rails. or if you are balling you can buy one from capital seating for 150GBP.

really loving the Volks, you don't see those everyday on our Aerodecks. nice work and congrats on the job and garage space. trust me, I know it makes a world of difference.

I had a look at the boot lid wiring yesterday and saw no breakings in the wire harness or other parts of it. for giggles I pulled the motor out and ran direct power to that and it seemed to work with no issues. I also switched the wiper switch on the steering column too, and even that wasn't causing it to blow fuses. the only harness that got wet was the floor harness. luckily everything thing else was higher up. the weird thing is that this all started when I put the center console and radio back in. I wonder if there is a wire or ground behind there causing this issue?

that is correct. I am trying to come up with different symptoms and scenarios as to why this is going on.

well back to square1. even with the rear wiper unplugged its still blowing fuses!!! and now for some reason my rear trunk light stays on once the fuse blows. it stays on like its not closed, an open circuit, or something. so I don't even know where to start to try and track this down. the Aerodeck shop manual I have is a good start, but I cant find any troubleshooting for this.

I think I found the issue. did a few test and came to the conclusion its the rear wiper motor. here was the break down 1. new fuse, roll windows up and down with car started and in accessory position. no blown fuse. 2. turn on front wipers no, no blown fuse 3. turn on rear wipers, hear the fuse pop so I pull off the plastics on the trunk lid and pull the plug for the wiper. replace with yet another 20a fuse, cross fingers and pray to the Honda gods, and turn the key. windows go up and down with no problem. I have been testing it all day and the fuse is still good. did a lil research and found out that a dying motor will try and draw a lot of extra power and can cause the fuses to blow in cars. so I just need to grab up a new rear wiper motor and I will be set.

been a minute since I been on here; but I got the interior and carpet situation sorted out. I ended up pulling all the grey cushion stuff off the carpet and installed some new cushion. cleaned the carpet with a magical potion of carpet cleaners and Lysol, and all kinds of smelly good stuffs. now the problem that just came up is I keep blowing the 20amp fuse for my wipers/windows in the fuse box. I rolled my windows down and they wouldn't go back up this morning. so I naturally checked the fuses and yes the fuse was blown. simple right? nope........ I replaced the fuse, turned the ignition switch to accessory position, and my rear wiper came on by itself. weird, actually very weird. so I turned the wiper switch for the rear on and off and the wiper just kept on wiping. turned the power off and back on and the fuse was blown again. so far I have replaced 3 fuses and just kept my windows rolled up. I am assuming the combination switch for my front and rear wipers is toast and no good. something is causing a short for the fuse to pop. any ideas gents?

thanks for the advice. problem is I am not a welder nor do I know anyone who is. I got a shop to look at it today and they want almost 300 Euro to fix it. basically they would cut out all the cancer, sand down what can be saved, weld and primer it. the welder at the shop said cause the rust is already through the inner body its going to be tough to get a perfect weld on the area. so I don't really want to pay that much for a car that I am getting rid of next year when I go back to America. so its primer and paste, and drive till it falls apart. I also still have the wet fire wall issue as well. since this is my only car I don't have time to pull it all apart to hunt down that leak as well. its a pain I tell you.