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MC2 Project - Chassis prep


DeLaSoul
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why not do the whole exhaust mani to tip

Not needed, and at the cost of a roll I'm dammed if I'm doing the whole thing! I want to reduce the heat in the bay and it should in turn help keep the intake temps down during normal driving and up power by keeping the exhaust gases hotter exiting the engine.

someone was selling dc2 oil coolers on ebay a month or so ago for about 45 quid... I spent a few days poring over the workshop manual for the m and comparing it to the teg manual.

I was reading somewhere on the web about someone who'd added one to his gsr, and I think he had to drill a new port into the block?

ended up falling into the too complicated box for me.. but i did wonder if you could just tap into the cooling system somewhere else... also, the m's got a smaller radiator than the teg, so wasn't sure if it could cope.

sorry for ramblin :lol:

loving all of the awsomising that you're doing to the deck

1"£££$££"!!

Not a bad idea, but I have been looking at the Mocal oil coolers and taking the feed from a sandwich plate fitted to the filter opening on the back of the block. As long as I use a temp controlled switch to open the flow to the cooler when the oil gets hot enough it should be okay. I can mount a 13 row cooler in front of the a/c rad for now, but I need to check the flows/pressure is enough for that length of oil lines. As this isn't my daily driver I can spend a bit of time planning the jobs, getting the bits and working it out as I go ;)

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manifold looks good mate, when i get one i will drop it off lol

and as for the 13 row oil cooler i sold one last week new and unused, shame as only went for 25 :-( was a mocal one too. if only i had known..

:( Always the way, never mind

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A quick Q david through my readings when lowering ect people swap the top arms fronts over, L-R ect

for caster/or KPI? ect can you do comparison for us please thanks in advance. ;)

or anybody else for that matter 8-)

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A quick Q david through my readings when lowering ect people swap the top arms fronts over, L-R ect

for caster/or KPI? ect can you do comparison for us please thanks in advance. ;)

or anybody else for that matter 8-)

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A quick Q david through my readings when lowering ect people swap the top arms fronts over, L-R ect

for caster/or KPI? ect can you do comparison for us please thanks in advance. ;)

or anybody else for that matter 8-)

I know from the alignment I had done that the caster were out on the readings until the car was setup at ride height/camber and then the caster came back into an "acceptable range" according to the geo machine (I questioned the numbers when he was setting it up as I though Caster would be a constant on a double wishbone setup). I was worried that we would need to pull the upper arms off and shim/spin the bushes over to get the right figures but it was all good in the end.

I don't know the stock readings, but I can find the alignment sheet and give you the final reading if that's any help? I know that until everything else was setup the figures were more positive than they should have been (or greater KPI than stock) I have never heard of people swapping left to right tbh, and I can't think why you'd want to as surely it would give a negative/lower caster angle?

More caster = more on power steering or greater camber change at lock

I will be picking the car up tomorrow so I can check the figures then.

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A quick Q david through my readings when lowering ect people swap the top arms fronts over, L-R ect

for caster/or KPI? ect can you do comparison for us please thanks in advance. ;)

or anybody else for that matter 8-)

I know from the alignment I had done that the caster were out on the readings until the car was setup at ride height/camber and then the caster came back into an "acceptable range" according to the geo machine (I questioned the numbers when he was setting it up as I though Caster would be a constant on a double wishbone setup). I was worried that we would need to pull the upper arms off and shim/spin the bushes over to get the right figures but it was all good in the end.

I don't know the stock readings, but I can find the alignment sheet and give you the final reading if that's any help? I know that until everything else was setup the figures were more positive than they should have been (or greater KPI than stock) I have never heard of people swapping left to right tbh, and I can't think why you'd want to as surely it would give a negative/lower caster angle?

More caster = more on power steering or greater camber change at lock

I will be picking the car up tomorrow so I can check the figures then.

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