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**My 1st car project thread, MB3**


vtec2011
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Have you tried taking the glovebox out, to see if it's wet up in there, could be the bottom of the screen leaking.

Along that line of thought, have you checked the scuttle and under the bonnet in the corners at the windscreen end? Could be a blocked drain? 

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This leak in the passenger foot well seem to come and go! One thing I do know for sure, it isn't coolant. So I guess its not the heater matrix? Not sure but its not leaking now anyway...  :huh:

 

And yes! I have picked up a D16Y8 head! Obviously I got to do a lot of research, getting bits and pieces together and find a P28 or P30 ecu, but is it worth doing a head conversion? Is it really worth the hassle? I have seen a lot of people do it to D14, D15 and non vtec motors but dunno yet, I will have a long think about it  ;)

 

So, I got a:   D16Y8 cylinder head

                    D16Z6 inlet manifold

                    D16Z6 exhaust manifold which is currently fitted 

 

Here's the difference: Before - http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/89509-ek3-civic-hatch.html#post1217683

After - http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/89509-ek3-civic-hatch-2.html#post1244654

The dyno is for mini me and D16Z6 intake manifold combined. You gain 9 hp up top, lots of torque in low rpm and the only downside -  lower MPG.

 

Don't change the complete head, it's pointless unless you want to rebuild the engine. Z8 head casting is the same as Y8. Just change camshaft, rockers and springs. You also need adjustable cam gear and Z6 injectors.

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This is all intresting reading guys as your helping me answer questions i have not even asked you all yet...

 

EmZvr: Your last comment about replacing whole head unless your rebuilding mad me happy as my plans are to have the bottom end rebuilt then replace head with the same as mentioned in this thread..

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Have you tried taking the glovebox out, to see if it's wet up in there, could be the bottom of the screen leaking.

 

Along that line of thought, have you checked the scuttle and under the bonnet in the corners at the windscreen end? Could be a blocked drain? 

 

I have taken the glovebox out to check it's all dry, but I will keep an eye on it when it rains again.

 

Also, I have noticed the bottom of the windcscren have white mould under the glass, its the same at the top of the windscreen too. I hope to get the windscreen replaced once I go fully comp :)

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Here's the difference: Before - http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/89509-ek3-civic-hatch.html#post1217683

After - http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/89509-ek3-civic-hatch-2.html#post1244654

The dyno is for mini me and D16Z6 intake manifold combined. You gain 9 hp up top, lots of torque in low rpm and the only downside -  lower MPG.

 

Don't change the complete head, it's pointless unless you want to rebuild the engine. Z8 head casting is the same as Y8. Just change camshaft, rockers and springs. You also need adjustable cam gear and Z6 injectors.

 

I knew you would comment on my thread in no time   :lol:  I am very happy with top end power of my MB3 but I want a bit more bottom end, it seems torqueless before 4000rpm. I didn't know the Z8 and Y8 are the same castings, again I haven't done enough research...

 

On that link, did matey use another ECU or was it just a standard one for the original head? (before the mini-me conversion)

 

Oh and how is your new engine coming along? :)

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I knew you would comment on my thread in no time   :lol:  I am very happy with top end power of my MB3 but I want a bit more bottom end, it seems torqueless before 4000rpm. I didn't know the Z8 and Y8 are the same castings, again I haven't done enough research...

 

On that link, did matey use another ECU or was it just a standard one for the original head? (before the mini-me conversion)

 

Oh and how is your new engine coming along? :)

 

You guessed right  :lol: Almost all threads here are for B series for which I don't know much. That's why when I see a thread for D-series I shoot right away :P

 

Yep, the head casting is the same as Y8 which is awesome. It's a pity that we can't use the roller rockers though when changing camshaft. 

 

Getting rid of the 12valve mode helps with low rpm torque. You can see in the dyno, you gain 47nm in 2000rpm, 11nm in 2500 rpm and 5nm in 3000rpm. 

 

Before the mini me the ECU was stock. Only cai + header.

 

And about my engine, I'm still collecting funds for a remap. All the necessary parts for a mini me are in a box waiting for me.

 

This is all intresting reading guys as your helping me answer questions i have not even asked you all yet...

 

EmZvr: Your last comment about replacing whole head unless your rebuilding mad me happy as my plans are to have the bottom end rebuilt then replace head with the same as mentioned in this thread..

 

 

D16Z6 head will be a better choice but D16Y8 is still very good :)

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You guessed right  :lol: Almost all threads here are for B series for which I don't know much. That's why when I see a thread for D-series I shoot right away :P

 

Yep, the head casting is the same as Y8 which is awesome. It's a pity that we can't use the roller rockers though when changing camshaft. 

 

Getting rid of the 12valve mode helps with low rpm torque. You can see in the dyno, you gain 47nm in 2000rpm, 11nm in 2500 rpm and 5nm in 3000rpm. 

 

Before the mini me the ECU was stock. Only cai + header.

 

And about my engine, I'm still collecting funds for a remap. All the necessary parts for a mini me are in a box waiting for me.

 
 

 

D16Z6 head will be a better choice but D16Y8 is still very good :)

I was going to ask which would be best for me at the time but you have answered it for me...saying that by then i shall have forgotten which head you said and which thread this was all said and ask again LOL

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