burbleboy Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share Posted February 1, 2015 A few little jobs taken care of there, good work! Might be a good idea for me when i remove my rear bumper to spray, to seal the vent as you have, to prevent any future leaks ever occuring!! It was a weird place to have a leak tbh. But preventive maintenance is a good thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVEMB2 Posted February 1, 2015 Share Posted February 1, 2015 Nice work good you can get it in and up in the air so much better:) God I hope funky power are not going there are some bits I want off them and they have always been good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzys Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Great work mate! How does it feel after playing with the preload? Hope what I had said in the other thread made sense when you came to doing it! Worth getting the full geo done after playing with the suspension anyway, plus with the state of the roads I bet at least the tracking will be slightly out anyway. Fingers crossed the pulling to the left can be cured. Could be the rear engine mount or gearbox mount? Again hope they can see what's happening when it's in for the geo. Out of curiosity when was the box oil last changed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayhoath83 Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 How did it go at progrip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burbleboy Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 Great work mate! How does it feel after playing with the preload? Hope what I had said in the other thread made sense when you came to doing it! Worth getting the full geo done after playing with the suspension anyway, plus with the state of the roads I bet at least the tracking will be slightly out anyway. Fingers crossed the pulling to the left can be cured. Could be the rear engine mount or gearbox mount? Again hope they can see what's happening when it's in for the geo. Out of curiosity when was the box oil last changed? Hi mate, I adjusted the preload no bother but may have stuffed up with regard to how much! I put around 10mm of preload on to stiffen the springs so that I can then soften the shockers to get a 'happy medium' compromise on ride quality and handling. It handles well but the usual bumps I hit on the way to work each night seem harsher tonight I canny win! I think I will keep the ride height the same (so that I don't have to get another geo done) and reverse the preload to make spring longer to absorb the bumps more. Lesson learned :( Progrip checked the gear linkage and found ok. Gearbox mount was fine and the engine mount was slightly perished but not bad he said. I really don't know whats going on. Fine getting gears stationary and driving normal, but bring dual carriageways into it then the issue arises. If it was the gearbox then it would crunch or do it all the time. The fact it is not doing it all the time is just plain confusing! The gearbox oil has been changed twice in the last two years. With Honda MTF I may add! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzys Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 That's a strange one with the box, you'd expect a crunch or at least a whine or something...I found 10mm of preload too much for my liking too, 5mm rides just right then you can adjust the damping to suit your mood as you said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burbleboy Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 That's a strange one with the box, you'd expect a crunch or at least a whine or something...I found 10mm of preload too much for my liking too, 5mm rides just right then you can adjust the damping to suit your mood as you said. yeah mate, that's why I don't think it's the box tbh. The bolt at the bottom of the short shifter may need investigating as when that is too tight, the gears are stiff (albeit all the time). I will check that bolt anyway in case the salt has corroded it! As long as I get the ride height back to the same after I re-adjust the preload again then it will save me ANOTHER trip to Progrip! I shall do the fronts tomorrow morning and then the rear during the week, cant face adjusting everything at once, like I did on Saturday there * tear drops down cheek* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burbleboy Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 @KrzysCould it be my clutch at fault for the gears? My pedal has a biting point that's a bawhair off the floor. If the speeds are higher then the flywheel would be spinning faster and clutch may struggle, except at lower speeds? Just a thought! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzys Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Check that bolt first dude, see if it makes any difference to the effort needed to change gear. Has it ever had a clutch change do you know? If the bit point is low the clutch may be worn. Is the pedal heavy too? Just had a read of a thread on Piston heads: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=5&t=801720 Depends what we mean by 'going'. If the reason for failure is worn friction material, then I would agree with your version - the biting point would move towards the top of the pedal travel. (Think of what happens inside the bell housing: once the clutch starts slipping, the pedal 'doesn't come far enough up' for it to get to the biting point). If the slave cylinder is failing the biting point might move down - but I wouldn't expect much slippage there unless the cylinder leaks and contaminates the clutch, and even then I'd think it more likely for juddering to be the first sign that something wasn't right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Worth checking the fluid level mate in the box .. and replacing if a) necessary or its not been done recently .. Clutch could also be a culprit, although not really any way to know for sure without replacing it .. Out of interest, when you took your measurements for the ride height, where were you measuring? And did you adjust the coilovers so that front and rear were exactly the same? Also, 10mm of preload is far too much for a comfy ride lol .. 7mm i have on mine and its about spot on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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