snakey135 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 It shouldn't do jay, when i do my actual shocks i'll only spot weld them bit by bit... Fingers crossed should be fine Ah tom these pics are really helping! ... I see how its been done that way now, but does the bottom of the shock have two notches for the pinch bolt? One in its original place and one higher up for the new fork position, as the fork has gone higher up?The shaft looks quite close to the bottom of the shock, does it knock if you hit a bit lump or pothole hard?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzys Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 @noodels is the man to ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snakey135 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 Thats good to know tom!... Im going to have a go at them tomorrow... Just undecided wether to drop 10mm or 15mm???Hopefully he may be able to shed a little more light on this for me Krzys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noodels Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 About 10mm is the shortest with cutting the top of the forks as not interfere with the clamping,the pinch bolt need turning down also as so not to interfere and denting damper,turned my bolts down by putting the bolt in a drill and turning it on then using a grinder shaved some off whilst it was spinning. Did not want to weld on the damper though by moving the clamp for the gas expansion issues in doing so. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chandler Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 good info mate! dont they have a location pin that comes down that slots into the slot of the fork? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snakey135 Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 Cheers @noodels very helpful! With the welding i should get away with it as ill only spot it carefully, i wont steam a great fat slug all the way around as that'll deffo heat it up inside!! LoolYeah @Chandler they do, so when i move the collar up i have to keep it in the same alignment to make sure the fork is the right way around!Its just a different way of doing it and if all goes well its another option for people! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chandler Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 i probably still wouldn't weld the shock :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snakey135 Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 How everyone is concerned about this shock welding is worrying me! Lol... I might have a plan B to re-secure the collar without welding! I'll keep you guys posted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chandler Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 ok mate, just don't think its a good idea really mate :/ i dont think heating the shock up in any way is good for it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzys Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 If shock absorbers were meant to be welded into place they would be from factory... I'm sure there's a very good reason people generally don't do this otherwise it would be a more "standard practise". 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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