Krzys Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Becuse cheap coilover spings?!?Tight wods be like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snakey135 Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Haha! Cheers for all the advice guys... I wasn't on about welding the fork in place... Just the little collar that sits above it with just a 1 second spot each side... As its not the collar which takes the weight, its just a positioner collar and the fork bolt holds the fork in place on the strut i believe? But obviously i dont want to be killing the strut as can lead to bad things!!But anyway im seeing my options of how to raise the fork a touch and see what i come up with! Thanks again for all the input and help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chandler Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 i suppose if its only a spot it shouldn't be bad, but how are you going to strip paint off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snakey135 Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Would just use a bit of course emry cloth... Would only need to bring two little spots back to metal anyway if i were to do it that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snakey135 Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 To try and get accross what i was thinking of doing without confusing people (which im good at!) ive done a little image to explain!On the top shock the green lines are welds i would cut (hacksaw) to free off the fork collarOn the bottom shock i show i can then move the collar and fork (indicated in red) up 10 or 15mm, and then two little spot welds where the blue stars are to hold the collar in place.The collar then lines up the fork then i can crank up the fork pinch bolt to hold the fork in place on the shock.Doing it this way am i still likely to boil up the fluid, as the only heat will be there for a second max, then i'll drop a little water on to instantly cool down??I know i seem persistant with this idea but i think this way you can get it alot more accurate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chandler Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 you'd still need some sort of earth on there to weld Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chandler Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 still unsure :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snakey135 Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 Right lads.. I've made a decision!!!New techniques dont get realised without taking risks! Theres an obvious chance here that i could f*ck the fluid in the shocks but im going to do it and see what happens!!! If s*it happens i have my original front shocks to put on and ill have to source another set of MG ZS front shocks!!And your right tom, at some point i will be doing discs and pads all round and braided hoses at the same time so when that happens the collar wont be needed anyway!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roj Posted February 14, 2015 Share Posted February 14, 2015 I always thought that bracket was just clamped on. Didn't realise it was welded. Personally if it was my car, my money, I'd either go with what Tom has (shortened forks) or I'd live with the height until I could afford a better bolt-on solution. I couldn't let a welder near my shocks. Maybe try it on your originals first so you're not losing anything of value if it does mess up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzys Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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