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Unfortunately, you can't lacquer polished metal mate. The surface needs to have either primer or base colour on it for thelacquer to adhear to. One way may be to get it anodized? Not sure if they do a clear anodize though. Best bet is to get the metal polishing kit for your electric drill or grinder mate. It's still a lot of work, although easier. And the finish you get is highly polished, and lasts a lot longer. I did ruby's with the metal polishing kit on my drill, and it's not been touched since I done it. Still looks the same as far as I'm aware. Or.................you can have it chrome plated (costly) or if I ever get my business up and running, you can have it chrome painted. Still costly, though not as dear as the plating. Looks amazing, and you can lay on high temp primer as far as I know, so shouldnt get any issues with heat.

Hi guys, This is my MC2 VTI... more to come when I get around to finishing some internal tweaks....

Hi, again. Lets continue, shall we? I just spent most of the afternoon making the control unit. It required some knowlegde about making the pcb. After designing the pcb and altering the diagram seen below I traced the line on it with nail varnish (best so far). Before I was so fussy I used masking, lasering and sparying it before cooking in acid. Afterwards the pcb looked like this. Not a pretty thing but it works. Then it was time for the best part which is soldering the components. There are a few options for P1/R2C1 relationship but I wont get into the subject of electronics because thats not the case here. I'll just give you the set up that works for me. The relationship between the P1, R2 and C1 gives me the adjusting range 1-29 sec between the wipes. The unit is done and it looks like this All I need to do is connect the potentiometer P1 that adjust the time gap between the wipes and get my hands on the wiring in the car but that will happen tomorrow. The list of components you will need: US1 - SRD-12VDC-SL-C or similar relay D1 - 1N4148 D2 - 1N4001 R1 - 300ohm R2 - 1.2kohm P1 - 100kohm C1 - 470uF C2 - 10nF C3 - 47nF To make a pcb you will need blank sheet like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Clad-PCB-Printed-Circuit-Board-305-x-203mm-/291106797937?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item43c7513971and ferric chloride. However you can always get it made by a professional company for a couple of quid. I can post the layout I worked out if somebody wants to get their hands dirty. Sorry to be so laconic. My daughter needs attention so need to meet the fatherhood requirements I will post progress soon and if you guys need more info PM me or reply here. Back soon

One seven seven, Seven Seven seven

Your mb has come a long way, congrats on a job well done. Excellent spec list, would like to see these a lot more often in build threads. Cool interior light mods, especially liking the boot lights. Keep it going!

yes!! please!

I was looking into this a while ago but ended up putting it into the too hard box for my crap knowledge of electronics. Did get as far getting a wiper stalk from an accord which has the variable dial on (but not the rear wiper control)... Use for the redundant a/c button? On some hondas you can just swap the control box with one which has the function, but every time i emailed someone breaking as accord they didn't have a clue what i was talking about Will be really interested in this one

It's better to remove it and soak it in something like WD40 / degreaser or etc. That way you'll be sure it will be cleaned properly. I left mine overnight soaking. Sure some coolant will spray from the hoses when you remove the iacv but nothing to worry about.

I had used Tom's answer for this as it amused me

Awesome shoot mate, great photos!! Looks like a pro's shooting for you

Wow enough said

Stickers and Interior A bit chavy but I like it I hate cream seats so to prevent it from getting dirty even more!!! seat covers FTW!!!