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Good shout mate, I'll se about getting this added to FAQ. And thank you, cracking info there!

A reply this detailed deserves to be in the FAQ section of this site! It really seems a more difficult job than a cam swap and a tune haha If I ever manage to stumble upon the main parts for a cheap enough price (Hondas in general were very expensive relative to other cars here in Italy so not many sales...) to justify all the work I'll definitely try. Thanks for all the info!

Great post there mate

I remember reading stories online about the issues that come with disc swaps such as needing a whole new trail arm etc etc. I'd love to gather the most info possible on this matter since I'm highly considering it on my MB2 (no ABS). If anyone here knows anything about rear antiroll bars I'd love to know more about that too, I tried to check for em but I'm not sure if it's possible to mount one on stock arms without braces of some kind. Thanks in advance!

Sorry I have a few questions 😅 1- what front and rear camber arms can be used on my 1.6 deck 2- what size it the rear discs and pads 3-anyone has issues with car not locking when turning the key isn't even wanting to click when turning it? Could the central locking control module be done for as the battery did die and this happened after it? And 4- needing the front hubs and arms can I use any other civic ones? Thanks

As Simon said mate, it would be hard to tell from photos of them if they'll actually fit. On saying that, there is some similarities between the sedan and the Civic Ms depending if it's the ek/ej based on or the Domani based one. Domain ones might have a chance of fitting I think, but again I wouldn't put money on it! Lol

The part about needing new trailing arms is 100% correct, as the drum brake ones lack the proper mounting points for a disc brake system. But you've got to be careful with which arms you choose, as the wrong ones could end up increasing your rear trackwidth and that's gonna end badly for your handling. As our M-chassis have borrowed a lot of suspension components from 5th gen Civics (EG), I'd recommend searching for EG5/EG6/etc. trailing arms, as they should keep everything in spec. I for one got a pair of EG5 arms to go with my non-ABS system. But that's only part of the problem. If you've somehow managed to get yourself the right trailing arms then you still have to find a matching brake proportioning valve (or prop valve) that splits the pressure correctly between front and rear. Otherwise your rear brakes might either not bite enough, or bite too much and cause the rear to kick out while braking (very dangerous). This is especially important if you've got something like an MOT or TÜV here in Germany, where your car gets an inspection every X years and they check your brake performance. M-chassis Civics also use an old style of prop valve, which makes it EVEN HARDER to find the correct ones. What you generally want to get is called a "4040" valve, which is just the model number, nothing more (some dumbasses online claimed those valves split 40/40, but where the hell would the remaining 20% go?) I also found a nifty table somewhere on an obscure forum, and I don't know where exactly I got it from, so I sadly can't attribute the original poster, but here it is: And depending on the caliper sizing, you might even have to upgrade your master cylinder, but that's getting really technical. So, in short, get the correct trailing arms, a somewhat correct prop valve and maybe upgrade your master cylinder. If you want to do it properly, it's a whole lot more work than just doing enough for it to work. Pro Tip: You can also fine-tune your front/rear balance by using more or less aggressive pads. And regarding rear ARBs, you've got a choice between either buying some used EG6 brackets, using aftermarket ones, and reinforcement braces with mounts included. I went with a used EG6 ARB, plus mounting hardware, because I wanted to try out how much difference just that dingy little thing would make (a lot). Here are a few pics of it both installed, and some pics of the used mounting hardware. You also need fitting lower control arms with mounting holes for the endlinks. And I'd recommend buying new endlinks while you're at it. And maybe a few harder rubber bushings on top. I also had to fabricate some small metal standoffs for the mounting bracket to properly fit to the rear frame (top right picture, the screw just above the yellow marking). This would be the alternative, a rear brace with mounts included: But some places also carry aftermarket versions of the OG hardware that I mentioned and shower earlier, so that's an option, as well. All in all, it's a s**t job with tons of little hang-ups, researching, browsing marketplaces and painful installation, but the handling difference is night and day.

The old girl has been getting pampered with a clay bar, machine polish, and prestige valet from https://www.a1carvalet.co.uk/ - really good job inside and out.

Yeah, I must admit I'm not sure. You're right it'll lose revs quicker, but it feels like the momentum of the car will drive the engine easier as well. Can't quite get my head around it. I'm sure when I was looking into them before I got my ITR one that was one of the supposed downsides (along with losing grunt uphill), but it's a long time ago now.

It wouldn't take much difference for there to be issues. These are the heko ones for the MG / rovers https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151734971648?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=cZit5HsFTvK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=VPkI41u3Sse&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE

Nice to be not deleting / editing spam 😂

sorry no pics of spam for you spam lovers, but Yokohamas good if you only need dry grip ?

Apologies for the Lack of updates, Im still on with the Restoration and will get some updates posted soon!

Russian spam.... Probably 😂

today was the day i removed the trailing arm, its been 2 days worth of work trying to get it to come off as so many bolts were properly seized on and i could not reach them with the arm on the car. It meant having to cut the ABS cable, the Handbrake Cable and also the Brake line. Not too worried as all those are getting replaced anyway. The majority of the bolts came out without snapping apart from one which was the LCA bolt to Trailing arm leaving me with a situation where i had to cut the arm. Yet again not a problem as im putting new ones on. Once the arm was off then i was able to remove the tricky bolts. I gave the arm a clean up to be pleasantly surprised at how little corrosion there was on the arm, the hub and spindle are a different matter though so i will get them cleaned up. I managed to remove the remains of the Lower control arm that were stuck in the trailing arm. it has left a bit of thread behind in the trailing arm so i will aim to try and weld a nut onto that and try and free it off that way!

So over the winter months i have been refurbishing numerous parts off the car. Stuff like the Fuel Tank, Straps, Filler neck etc. This is the filler neck off my car, its pretty rusty, however thankfully no holes, I cleaned it up best i could and treated any rust, then etch primed it. once that were done, i then painted it satin black. Next up was the Rear Lower Control arms, These are a Spare set so thankfully i can do them whilst not having to have the car in bits. These can be really expensive brand new nearing like £300 for one arm. Here is the Arm being painted, all the Rust was removed, it was then Primed and painted Black, once set the Mating surfaces for the bolts were then cleaned up to look original. Finally The Fuel tank. At first i was thinking of buying a new one but it turned out that the one i had was not that bad in the end. when i took it off the car it looked very corroded but after cleaning it, it came up well. I also noticed the fuel pump was also covered in that same underseal used on the underside of the car its a bit of a blessing and a curse as its protected the fuel pump really well, however it was an utter pain in the backside to clean up. Still even had the Original Bosch sticker on it underneath lmao For the fuel tank i wanted to remove all the rust and then stonechip it to protect it from further road exposure. So i went out and got some generic Hammerite stone chip to do the job. I was pretty chuffed with how it came out, a nice smooth finish, which was what i was after. I did put it on thick in some areas mainly around the edges and the lip of the tank to prevent any rust from creeping in. I finally after many hours got the pump stripped down and cleaned up. surprisingly it came up really well not as much rust as i thought there would be either. I didn't get many photos of the process between this and fitting it all back as it was getting dark and i just wanted to get the thing done. I painted the top of the fuel pump with some brush on hammerite black as it was the only thing i had lying around at the time, the finish could have been better but to be honest its gonna be under the car and covered up so its not exactly in view and it will just protect it from rusting out. But there we go, all refurbished with new clamps and nuts, all cleaned up and painted. Im pretty pleased with the outcome of this. Just need to get round to doing the Straps next and fitting the pads back on I managed to get the straps done today also. They were pretty rusty at the ends however, they weren't horrendous. So i removed all the rust/paint/underseal and got them back to bare metal to be etch primed. Once that had set i then put the Satin Black paint on. I managed to find some Rover parts to use at the mounting end as the old ones had seen better days. i found some brand new mounting bolts for £10 which wasn't bad at all. Unfortunately a lot of the Honda stuff isn't available and when you think it is, its usually listed wrong and is actually for the EK / EG Civics. Not a bad thing as you don't have to pay for the Honda Tax Here are some Before and After photos, i think these will finish off the Fuel Tank Assembly quite nicely. It saves me buying new fuel straps too as they aren't cheap either.