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SirPaperbag last won the day on August 17
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About me
VTEC wizard and overall mad scientist with a knack for electronics.
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Name
Patrick
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Age group
17-25...Youngster!
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Location
Germany
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Civic Model
CIVIC S 5 DOOR
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MA8
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I have actually used both Rainsport 5 and the AD08RS tires, so I think I'll just throw my two cents in here. The Rainsports are literally a 10/10 in the rain - I once drove on the Autobahn during a heavy rainstorm with around 130kph and I didn't get even the slightest bit of aquaplaning at all! But their dry grip is not the best to be honest. They tend to understeer and 'smeer' during cornering, so maybe a 7.5/10 in that category. The AD08RS are also very good in 'bad' (rainy) conditions - I'd give them an 8/10 in that regard, they grip quite well in the wet for semi-slicks. When I went over to my mates' to put the new tires on my wheels it was still early February and quite the rainy evening, but the brand new tires didn't feel slippery or dodgy in those cold and wet conditions at all! (Around 5-7°C and quite a lot of rain) Their dry grip is in a completely different league as well - the car feels like driving on rails compared to the old Rainsports. On my usual B-roads there were a few corners that always felt a bit dodgy/understeery when I took them with 100kph, but the Advans give me nothing but confidence! So, my recommendation for you would be the AD08RS. Their dry grip is almost perfect in my opinion and they are good enough in the rain, especially if it's mainly a dry-weather car. (And I use them for my daily, so...) Plus a few pictures comparing the fitment (same tire sizes for both of them):
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Well, if you install a lighter flywheel you reduce the engine's inertia, aka its ability to keep going even if you lift off the throttle pedal. It makes the engine snappier and more responsive, but at a cost. If you have a light enough flywheel (let's say below 4kg) and an additional load like an AC compressor or the generator suddenly requires more power from the engine because the AC kicked on or a high electrical load was switched on it can actually upset/lower the engines RPM enough to stall it. That used to be pretty common knowledge, but all-motor tuning has gotten less and less popular so it makes sense for this kind of knowledge to get lost. No biggie. My recommendation would be to either re-install a heavier flywheel (cheapest option), or to get a programmable ECU (expensive) where you can increase the IACV's duty cycle to compensate for the engine's lower inertia (Hondata lets you do that as an example). Keep in mind that is only the culprit for your problems if your AC system is not faulty, but considering the fact that you compressor was recently changed and the system consequently recharged, leaks are most likely out of the question. (If the work was done by a competent mechanic) That's because the system (should) be pressure-checked for a few minutes before they put the new gas/liquid in, so it should be leak-free.
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SirPaperbag commented on Fenny's gallery image in Showcase Members Car Gallery
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The Red Fastback - MA8 Project Thread
SirPaperbag replied to SirPaperbag's topic in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
Wanted to give a small update on that particular issue. If albeit a late one. Just in case someone else reads through this thread at some point and encounters the same issue with any other kind of short shifter. As it turned out, the vibrations came from the uniball joint of the shifter itself, just as I suspected. By design, uniball joints always have a little bit of play in them and that created the rattle noise. But the harder bushings definitely were a major factor here, as well. I dribbled a bit of chain/machine oil into the base and after two or three applications the rattling completely stopped! :D You know, the kind that's very thin and oily at the start but quickly gets more sticky and viscous as it reacts with the air? That stuff also makes great chain lube for motorcycles, btw. ;)- 41 replies
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You've basically got yourself a unicorn right there. Pre-facelift MA Metallic grey color Factory fog lights Factory spoiler without a third brake light in the rear window And that badgeless grille looks pretty sweet! Had a pretty similar idea a while ago, just didn't get around actually doing it yet... Welcome to the club! :D
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The Red Fastback - MA8 Project Thread
SirPaperbag replied to SirPaperbag's topic in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
Took the time to do some more work on the ole Fastback today and installed a nice upgrade for the interior. The object in question being a very nice short shifter from Hybrid Racing and a set of stiffer shift-linkage bushings from Hardrace. The installation was pretty straightforward - take off the interior trim that surrounds the shifter, undo a few bolts and take out the b*tch pin, take off the old shifter and replace all the original parts with the shiny new ones. Even the rubber gasket went on there relatively easily, with a bit of lubrication of course ;) And the finished product looks like this: Had to take out the small plastic ring out from the top of the shifter boot to be able to install the 'swan neck' part of the shifter on top of it, but I really like the way it looks (and feels)! The biggest hold-up was the size of the hole where the shifter bolts onto the shift linkage. Had to take off some material or otherwise I'd have to choose between either only having gears 1 through 4 or gear 3 through reverse. Nothing bad though. File down, reinstall, take off again and file down a bit more and boom - bob's your uncle. There are still some vibrations to chase down, but nothing a bit of lubricant/machine oil can't fix. All in all, I'd say it was a huge upgrade for the driving experience - it's super notchy and rowing through the gears almost feels like racking a gun at times. I'd give the shifter itself a solid 9/10, feels well built, installation is straightforward and well documented by Hybrid Racing, they give you all the hardware you need and you don't have to damage or reuse old components (except filing down that linkage hole, but that's a M-chassis issue only).- 41 replies
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Bosch Big Fog Lights - Help with assembly
SirPaperbag replied to RuifcNunes's question in SOS! Help!!
It seems you might be missing some kind of plastic cowling / housing that would go around the fogs inside of the bumper hole. And I can only speak for pre-facelift models here, but the OEM fogs would be attached from the backside of the bumper where there are a bunch of sturdy mounting points for the screws to bite into. That's the part I'm talking about, btw - that plastic trim around the projector. -
I don't think he's got a Hondata, cause they provide you with a bunch of basemaps. My best bet would be either on the Hondata forums, or over at the folks who use Daemon and the likes. Strongly doubt that someone on this site would have a map for a D15 readily available.
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If you want to prevent the crank from turning, for example to undo the crank bolt, then you can either get a special tool (see picture), or undo the dust protection plate for the clutch and either jam a sturdy screwdriver or something else against the teeth on the flywheel to keep it in place. But that bolt is often super tight (>200NM torque), so beware when you go for the flywheel route!
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The Red Fastback - MA8 Project Thread
SirPaperbag replied to SirPaperbag's topic in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
So, did a good bit of work to the car again. This time I installed a proper mounting bracket for the cold air intake as the old hacked-off and jury-rigged intake mani bracket looked pretty bad, to be honest. Also installed a pair of much more serious sounding horns than that little beeper that the car came with. They sound a lot better than the OEM one did, and are quite a bit louder on top! After that I installed a set of new bumper screws - the original ones were completely rusted and cruddy, and one almost stripped completely when I took that bumper off! Then I got to work on my seat-project. As I said in my last post - the original seats make me sit a bit too high for my own tastes and I have been looking for either some high-quality (road legal) seat rails for aftermarket seats from either Recaro or some other brand, or a completely different way to sit lower than the original seats would allow me to. As it turns out ... you can fit CRX seats on the original M-chassis rails if you drill out the rivets and fabricate an adaptor plate out of steel (10mm thick in my case). I got lucky a few years ago and managed to take a pair of these seats off a guy for jsut 250 bucks total. :) Here's how the first prototype looks like: This was only to take a look and see if my idea could even work to begin with, and if it would make me sit lower than the OEM seats would, but as luck would have it ... this combo works flawlessly and I sit about 5 to 8 centimetres lower than I do in the stock seats! :D They are also quite a bit more comfortable, if a bit worn-out. Real plushy. :) But as things stand right now I'll just make a few more refinements to my adaptor brackets, give those seats a thorough cleaning session and maybe add some more side bolstering to give them a bit more of a sporty feel and I've got myself a nice pair of OEM Honda seats that do exactly what I want from them! :D- 41 replies
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I fitted an EG6 rear ARB last year, using the 'same' OEM mounting hardware as you probably do. (They were pretty rusty before I restored them) In my case, there were small pre-drilled (and tapped!) holes next to the lower control arm mounts (center of the car) that I just cleaned up before I installed the brackets. But if I remember correctly, I indeed had to drill a pair of holes for one of the brackets' mounting points. I also used some sturdy metal tubing as spacers between the frame and the mounts to reinforce everything. Also, you gotta have a pair of rear lower control arms that actually have the required holes to fit your ARB to! And a bit of friendly advice on top - don't go with an ARB thicker than 15 or 16mm, because everything above that is going to tear our and completely wreck your rear frame without any reinforcement done to it to take the brunt of the force. Hardrace, Beaks and loads of other companies sell those kinds of reinforcement braces, some of which even come with their own mounting points for your ARB! :) Here is how everything looks now: Hope I could be of help! :)
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The Red Fastback - MA8 Project Thread
SirPaperbag replied to SirPaperbag's topic in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
So, a few boxes full of fun-parts arrived yesterday... :D I'm still trying to find a good machining shop to get a port and polish, a valve-job and to get the rotating assembly properly balanced, but things are slowly progressing on the new engine build. It's going to be unconventional for sure, but I'm going to be fully building an N/A D16Z6 that I've bought for this project. Forged conrods, high compression pistons, stage 2 camshaft, lightened flywheel, the whole nine yards. I've also done some test-fitting already and it seems that the 'LITE'-series of conrods from Skunk2 doesn't require any notching of the block to fit, which is a huge win in my book! Though I had to cobble together a pseudo-piston from a few pieces of plastic and foam for the test-fit, as the pistons I bought are .5mm oversize and I haven't had the block bored out yet. Worked super well, though! But I'm super stoked to see what kind of power gain this is going to get me, and especially how high I'll be able to rev it. Components-wise it should be fine up to 9.000 or even 10.000 RPM, but we all know that it probably won't make much or even any power up that high in the rev-range. Based on my research into other all-motor D16 builds and B20 builds I'm confident that it should definitely hold up to 9.000 relatively comfortably, as many people in the states rev their stock-rod B20s that high without much issue, running only ARP rod-bolts and nothing else. (B20 engines have the same stroke as D16s, btw) It's going to be a while until things get moving properly, but the first step has been taken and all that's holding me back right now is finding that machining shop! :D Some folks are probably going to ask why I would take a D16 that far instead of just going B-Series, and I'm going to answer that by telling you that a B-Series swap costs around four to five thousand Euros where I live. If you can even find one... That's a lot of money for just a stock engine and trans. And it's also why I'm going to spend about the same amount of money to build a D-Series that is going to make roughly the same power, as well. I simply want a built engine. Simple as that. I've always wanted to build a proper all-motor engine and I finally got the chance, both time- and money-wise to do so, and I'm going to do it! :D I've also been doing some research into getting a road-legal bucket seat, or any kind of seat to be honest, because the stock seats are just too high for my tastes and I constantly have to lean forward when I'm stopped at a red light. Someone else on this forum already made an extremely helpful post about the seat rails from Planted Technology, which helped me immensely, but I've also found a local engineering company here in Germany which is able to fabricate everything in-house and even get it entered into the car's paperwork the legitimate way. That comes with its price though... Well, anyways. That's the current state of my project. See ya 'round!- 41 replies
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Had the same issue a while ago. Engine ran fine and then suddenly - dead. You could even see the tach have a seizure a few moments before the engine died. My only fix was to get a new complete dizzy, as they don't sell just the pickups/sensors inside of them. Even a whole new coil and ECM module didn't help and I even tested out a different ECU altogehter. The problem is that most aftermarket dizzys for our Hondas are ... hot garbage, to be honest. If you buy a cheap-ish one, you'll quickly find yourself ordering the next one sooner than later. The only quality brand I've seen is based in the US, by the name of "Dragon Fire". I know, sounds kinda iffy, but their stuff even meets the IATF standard, meaning it really is better than all of that Chinesium-garbage off eBay, and I've been running it for almost half a year now without complaint! Costs a pretty penny, though. :/
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Admit it, the fogs look Hella good. ;)
SirPaperbag commented on SirPaperbag's gallery image in Showcase Members Car Gallery
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The Red Fastback - MA8 Project Thread
SirPaperbag replied to SirPaperbag's topic in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
Finally got around to installing my Hondata and let's just say that I might have been a little nervous when I turned that ignition key for the first time, hah! But everything went well, and I now have a running, chipped D16Z9 engine, woohoo! It might be running richer than Jeff Bezos at a marathon for now, but a few good street-tuning sessions are going to take care of that. And I'm talking Lambda-0.8-at-idle-rich; Even a few seconds of cold-start are enough to make the whole courtyard reek of marzipan. Sadly I barely had any seat-time during the past few months, as the bane of every D-Series owner struck - ignition problems. It started as a random ignition stutter (rev-counter visibly took a dip) that quickly ended in a complete engine shut-off on my way home from work, and the car refused to turn back on again for at least five minutes after the initial shut-off. But it weirdly enough acted as if nothing happened when it did decide to work again. Spent a few weeks hunting down the issue, buying a new igniter, new coil, the whole nine yards, but the issue persisted. I suspected that the sensors inside of the dizzy might be the problem and looked up part numbers, but quickly found out that those are not sold separately. Dang it. That's when I went "F*k it, I'm gonna buy a whole damn new distributor." But, as it turns out, 99.9% of aftermarket dizzys for D-Series are hot garbage and people always have to buy new ones as they break down faster than you can say K-Swap. That's chinesium for ya... So I looked at those funny looking "Dragon Fire" -ones, which I admittedly didn't take seriously at first, and through their homepage I found out that they actually meet the IAT standard - Success! If something meets that standard, it's at least not as crappy as all of those cheapo replicas from China. The car has been running fine ever since and even gained a bit of torque down low! :D [A few weeks later...] Last weekend it was finally time for yet another small addition, as I finally grew tired of the original pedals and imported myself these beauties straight from the land of the rising sun. The instructions might be slightly difficult to read, but at least they included some pictures. And, well, installing pedals is kind of self-explanatory, y'know? Quick peek at them, straight out of the box. The installation process is actually super easy, as taking off the OEM accelerator-plastic is the most difficult step in my opinion. But with a small-ish flathead screwdriver and a little bit of convincing you can lift the plastic nose on the top and then just slide it off! After that, simply remove the plastic strips from the double-sided adhesive, set the covers in place and attach the small metal clamps that screw through the pedal covers to sandwich the pedal between the little clamps and the covers. This is what the finished product looks like. :) The clutch and brake pedal have that extremely grippy texture to them, which looks to be some kind of metal foam that has been injected into the frame. (Has even more grip than skateboard-tape!) Oh, and heel-and-toe has gotten a lot easier, as these pedals are a bit fatter than the OEM rubbers. All in all - way too expensive, but worth it. Mmm, take a look at that close-up.- 41 replies
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