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SirPaperbag

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SirPaperbag last won the day on February 15

SirPaperbag had the most liked content!

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  • About me
    VTEC wizard and overall mad scientist with a knack for electronics.

Personal info

  • Name
    Patrick
  • Age group
    17-25...Youngster!
  • Location
    Germany

Car info

  • Civic Model
    CIVIC S 5 DOOR
  • Model code
    MA8

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  1. So, a few boxes full of fun-parts arrived yesterday... :D I'm still trying to find a good machining shop to get a port and polish, a valve-job and to get the rotating assembly properly balanced, but things are slowly progressing on the new engine build. It's going to be unconventional for sure, but I'm going to be fully building an N/A D16Z6 that I've bought for this project. Forged conrods, high compression pistons, stage 2 camshaft, lightened flywheel, the whole nine yards. I've also done some test-fitting already and it seems that the 'LITE'-series of conrods from Skunk2 doesn't require any notching of the block to fit, which is a huge win in my book! Though I had to cobble together a pseudo-piston from a few pieces of plastic and foam for the test-fit, as the pistons I bought are .5mm oversize and I haven't had the block bored out yet. Worked super well, though! But I'm super stoked to see what kind of power gain this is going to get me, and especially how high I'll be able to rev it. Components-wise it should be fine up to 9.000 or even 10.000 RPM, but we all know that it probably won't make much or even any power up that high in the rev-range. Based on my research into other all-motor D16 builds and B20 builds I'm confident that it should definitely hold up to 9.000 relatively comfortably, as many people in the states rev their stock-rod B20s that high without much issue, running only ARP rod-bolts and nothing else. (B20 engines have the same stroke as D16s, btw) It's going to be a while until things get moving properly, but the first step has been taken and all that's holding me back right now is finding that machining shop! :D Some folks are probably going to ask why I would take a D16 that far instead of just going B-Series, and I'm going to answer that by telling you that a B-Series swap costs around four to five thousand Euros where I live. If you can even find one... That's a lot of money for just a stock engine and trans. And it's also why I'm going to spend about the same amount of money to build a D-Series that is going to make roughly the same power, as well. I simply want a built engine. Simple as that. I've always wanted to build a proper all-motor engine and I finally got the chance, both time- and money-wise to do so, and I'm going to do it! :D I've also been doing some research into getting a road-legal bucket seat, or any kind of seat to be honest, because the stock seats are just too high for my tastes and I constantly have to lean forward when I'm stopped at a red light. Someone else on this forum already made an extremely helpful post about the seat rails from Planted Technology, which helped me immensely, but I've also found a local engineering company here in Germany which is able to fabricate everything in-house and even get it entered into the car's paperwork the legitimate way. That comes with its price though... Well, anyways. That's the current state of my project. See ya 'round!
  2. Had the same issue a while ago. Engine ran fine and then suddenly - dead. You could even see the tach have a seizure a few moments before the engine died. My only fix was to get a new complete dizzy, as they don't sell just the pickups/sensors inside of them. Even a whole new coil and ECM module didn't help and I even tested out a different ECU altogehter. The problem is that most aftermarket dizzys for our Hondas are ... hot garbage, to be honest. If you buy a cheap-ish one, you'll quickly find yourself ordering the next one sooner than later. The only quality brand I've seen is based in the US, by the name of "Dragon Fire". I know, sounds kinda iffy, but their stuff even meets the IATF standard, meaning it really is better than all of that Chinesium-garbage off eBay, and I've been running it for almost half a year now without complaint! Costs a pretty penny, though. :/
  3. Finally got around to installing my Hondata and let's just say that I might have been a little nervous when I turned that ignition key for the first time, hah! But everything went well, and I now have a running, chipped D16Z9 engine, woohoo! It might be running richer than Jeff Bezos at a marathon for now, but a few good street-tuning sessions are going to take care of that. And I'm talking Lambda-0.8-at-idle-rich; Even a few seconds of cold-start are enough to make the whole courtyard reek of marzipan. Sadly I barely had any seat-time during the past few months, as the bane of every D-Series owner struck - ignition problems. It started as a random ignition stutter (rev-counter visibly took a dip) that quickly ended in a complete engine shut-off on my way home from work, and the car refused to turn back on again for at least five minutes after the initial shut-off. But it weirdly enough acted as if nothing happened when it did decide to work again. Spent a few weeks hunting down the issue, buying a new igniter, new coil, the whole nine yards, but the issue persisted. I suspected that the sensors inside of the dizzy might be the problem and looked up part numbers, but quickly found out that those are not sold separately. Dang it. That's when I went "F*k it, I'm gonna buy a whole damn new distributor." But, as it turns out, 99.9% of aftermarket dizzys for D-Series are hot garbage and people always have to buy new ones as they break down faster than you can say K-Swap. That's chinesium for ya... So I looked at those funny looking "Dragon Fire" -ones, which I admittedly didn't take seriously at first, and through their homepage I found out that they actually meet the IAT standard - Success! If something meets that standard, it's at least not as crappy as all of those cheapo replicas from China. The car has been running fine ever since and even gained a bit of torque down low! :D [A few weeks later...] Last weekend it was finally time for yet another small addition, as I finally grew tired of the original pedals and imported myself these beauties straight from the land of the rising sun. The instructions might be slightly difficult to read, but at least they included some pictures. And, well, installing pedals is kind of self-explanatory, y'know? Quick peek at them, straight out of the box. The installation process is actually super easy, as taking off the OEM accelerator-plastic is the most difficult step in my opinion. But with a small-ish flathead screwdriver and a little bit of convincing you can lift the plastic nose on the top and then just slide it off! After that, simply remove the plastic strips from the double-sided adhesive, set the covers in place and attach the small metal clamps that screw through the pedal covers to sandwich the pedal between the little clamps and the covers. This is what the finished product looks like. :) The clutch and brake pedal have that extremely grippy texture to them, which looks to be some kind of metal foam that has been injected into the frame. (Has even more grip than skateboard-tape!) Oh, and heel-and-toe has gotten a lot easier, as these pedals are a bit fatter than the OEM rubbers. All in all - way too expensive, but worth it. Mmm, take a look at that close-up.
  4. Thanks! :D It really is right in the sweetspot in my opinion - low enough to look good and handle well, but still enough ground clearance to get over speedbumps without fearing for dear life. I also drive on unpaved roads from time to time, so I gotta clear those huge potholes. Living out here in the boonies definitely has its pros and cons. :'D
  5. Had the same issue, fixed it by fabricating a set of roughly 15mm thick steel plates that go between the top of the shock assembly and the underside of the strut tower. Couldn't even drive into my garage anymore without scraping the front tow hooks. Now it sits at about the same height as before.
  6. Yep, same experience here. Had to grind that little bracket for the brake hoses off my original shocks and weld them to that kinda dodgy, nondescript piece of metal pipe that came with the kit. Pretty disappointing imo. A big brand like Bilstein really shouldn't ship stuff that requires modifications on the customer's side to work, especially at that price point. If I had known that before I got them, I definitely would have gone with Spax dampers instead - those even come with adjustable damping!
  7. Damn. that looks good! Didn't think that an Evo wing would actually fit that well... And what kind of spoiler is that on the boot? The smaller, lip-esque one, I mean. Kinda want one myself now.
  8. The set I ordered was made for the M-chassis (in my case an MA8), but I also don't use the original springs anymore. The front was also a bit too low for my taste after installing the B6 dampers, so I fabricated some steel plates and put them between the shock towers and the top of the strut assembly to gain around 15mm height back. And I definitely believe you - putting them back together (even with lowering springs) was really tricky. Honestly a bit disappointed from how it all fit together. If I were you, I'd get a set of lowering springs and try them out, as driving around with over-extended dampers is actually even a bit dangerous. (For reference, I use ~35mm lowering springs from Eibach) Best of luck!
  9. Got around to making a bit more progress on the car today. This time around, I did some work on the induction system. Had to take off the front bumper first, and I've gotten suspiciously quick at doing so. It's also ridiculously easy to take it off these cars! And this is the object in question today: that huge, ugly resonator box sitting inside of all our fenders, silencing those sweet, sweet induction noises. Truly preposterous. Three 10mm hex bolts later it's out of the car already. (Where it belongs) Look at all of that room! There is a (very small) German company that makes 3D-printed parts for this exact problem. [Link] Also, the bracket I used is some random piece of metal that I had flying around in my workshop and adjusted with an angle grinder. If I remember correctly, it might have come with the Z9 engine, like a bracket for the generator or something along those lines. Put a bit of electrical tape on the end and voilá - cold air intake with a stock airbox. Sure, it looks a bit janky on photo, but it's way better in person, promise. All in all - it makes all the right noises and I think it will be a big plus in these hot summer months, reducing intake temps quite a bit... Plus it's virtually impossible to see with the bumper back on, which is crucial here in Germany, as you either have to get your modifications entered into the registration of your car (which has a 0% chance of happening with this mod), or make it stealthy enough to not get spotted during our version of MOT or a traffic stop. For legal reasons I am going to emphasize that I put the stock resonator-box back on before putting everything back together, as I would never drive a car with an illegal modification such as this.
  10. Thanks! I've still got lots of things planned for her, so there's definitely more to come in the future. And the VTEC controller definitely was one of the most challenging projects I have ever done. Period. That thing took a lot of R&D time and writing the code for the microcontroller took about three weeks to get it working properly. Google definitely is onto something with their 80/20 rule: "80% of the work gets done in 20% of the time." It still is in what I would call it's "Beta phase", as there are still some kinks to take care of like minor fluttering in disengaging the VTEC and so on... But now that I've got a proper ECU (and even a second one with some Hondata goodies inside ) there simply is no real reason for me to keep working on it. Power-wise I've got something real nice coming up, some real single-jingle love for y'all. #SaveTheSOHC
  11. There are lots of modifications that I don't have any pictures of that also got left out, like silicon cooler hoses and a bigger radiator, but those kinds of mods aren't that exciting to begin with, so... Eh.
  12. This spring, I finally received something I ordered almost a whole year ago. Worst part is, the shop I got it from also is located in Germany. Those guys literally took a whole year to ship something less than 500 kilometers. It took a lot of threatening them with legal action and dozens of Emails, but my babies finally arrived one day. Just look at that! :D As I installed those juicy B6 dampers, I also decided to give my rear drums a small makeover with high temperature paint. They were only a year or two old, but had already started to gather surface rust... The rear is starting to look real nice. :) Little beauty-shot of the whole rear. The front calipers do look a bit bland, but there is no real reason to do anything to them yet, as my wheels pretty much cover them completely. ... Until the car started to veer to the right everytime I brake. Time for some new calipers! Of course I painted them. ;) Even got new hardware to go with them. And that's it! At least mechanically speaking. Sure, I put a sticker on the rear window and installed some wind deflectors, but that's pretty minor stuff. But there is something on the horizon... Here is a little beauty-shot of the engine bay as a thank you for making it this far! Would you believe me if I told you this was shot on a cheap digicam from 2006? Well, it was. :P
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