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Hi everyone, Thought I'd write up a post to help a few people out. Spent 2 hours researching this today. It is possible to fit after market seats in an MB model civic without a tailored/specially fitted subframe. So for all of those that would like a sportier seat, or some racing seats, this is how you do it and what you need List of parts: Seat (of your choice) Universal side mount rails Base mount conversion rails (you will only need these if you are buying seats with base mount/bottom fitting only) How to install seat seat: Remover factory seats and rails from car Remove factory rails from factory seat install universal side mounts to factory rails ( some bolts may need to be removed or cut off) put factory rails back into car with universal mounts attached Install base mount conversion brackets to side mounts install seat to base mount bracket If you have a seat that is side mounts only you will not need the base mount conversion bracket. you can skip step 4 and install the seat directly to the universal side mounts. The great thing about the universal side mounts is that you have a lot of choice in how you can position your seat. meaning you can have more lean in the seat. be higher up or lower down. this is all depend ending on the side mounts you buy and the amount of holes available. List of parts and seats I used to make this possible: Seat - Sparco R100 - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-r100-seat-7000253/ Side Mounts - Sparco Steel Side Mounts - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-steel-side-mounts-s-s004902/ Base mount conversion - OMP Base Mount Conversion Brackets - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/omp-base-mount-conversion-brackets-omphc0-0660/ Hope this helps anyone still trying to figure out how to do this.

Sensor for the ir remote I believe.

Finally got around to installing my Hondata and let's just say that I might have been a little nervous when I turned that ignition key for the first time, hah! But everything went well, and I now have a running, chipped D16Z9 engine, woohoo! It might be running richer than Jeff Bezos at a marathon for now, but a few good street-tuning sessions are going to take care of that. And I'm talking Lambda-0.8-at-idle-rich; Even a few seconds of cold-start are enough to make the whole courtyard reek of marzipan. Sadly I barely had any seat-time during the past few months, as the bane of every D-Series owner struck - ignition problems. It started as a random ignition stutter (rev-counter visibly took a dip) that quickly ended in a complete engine shut-off on my way home from work, and the car refused to turn back on again for at least five minutes after the initial shut-off. But it weirdly enough acted as if nothing happened when it did decide to work again. Spent a few weeks hunting down the issue, buying a new igniter, new coil, the whole nine yards, but the issue persisted. I suspected that the sensors inside of the dizzy might be the problem and looked up part numbers, but quickly found out that those are not sold separately. Dang it. That's when I went "F*k it, I'm gonna buy a whole damn new distributor." But, as it turns out, 99.9% of aftermarket dizzys for D-Series are hot garbage and people always have to buy new ones as they break down faster than you can say K-Swap. That's chinesium for ya... So I looked at those funny looking "Dragon Fire" -ones, which I admittedly didn't take seriously at first, and through their homepage I found out that they actually meet the IAT standard - Success! If something meets that standard, it's at least not as crappy as all of those cheapo replicas from China. The car has been running fine ever since and even gained a bit of torque down low! :D [A few weeks later...] Last weekend it was finally time for yet another small addition, as I finally grew tired of the original pedals and imported myself these beauties straight from the land of the rising sun. The instructions might be slightly difficult to read, but at least they included some pictures. And, well, installing pedals is kind of self-explanatory, y'know? Quick peek at them, straight out of the box. The installation process is actually super easy, as taking off the OEM accelerator-plastic is the most difficult step in my opinion. But with a small-ish flathead screwdriver and a little bit of convincing you can lift the plastic nose on the top and then just slide it off! After that, simply remove the plastic strips from the double-sided adhesive, set the covers in place and attach the small metal clamps that screw through the pedal covers to sandwich the pedal between the little clamps and the covers. This is what the finished product looks like. :) The clutch and brake pedal have that extremely grippy texture to them, which looks to be some kind of metal foam that has been injected into the frame. (Has even more grip than skateboard-tape!) Oh, and heel-and-toe has gotten a lot easier, as these pedals are a bit fatter than the OEM rubbers. All in all - way too expensive, but worth it. Mmm, take a look at that close-up.

Hey all! New here, although I see alot of posts are quite old, its cool to see people still active on these kinds of forums. I thought it would be a great place for information on potential mods, parts and specs regarding civic aerodecks. I know they are far more popular in the UK. Mine is actually the first one I've ever seen in person here in Ireland.

You can put lowering springs in B6 too. Bilstein told me you can use OEM springs or lowering springs. These shocks can take both. I installed the Eibach springs, and they are much better than the OEM springs. You can feel that the suspension works much better with the Eibach springs; I even find it more comfortable than the OEM ones, but I think it lowered a little more than I wanted in the front. At the back, it is very good. I have a friend with an EG Coupe with B8 and Eibach, and I feel it is more arsh compared to mine. I'm of the opinion that you shouldn't put EG stuff on MB when there are MB parts available because something has to change in that particular part; otherwise, they are both the same references. Don't use EK springs because the weight ratings are totally different. The spring plate is indeed a little bit small, but I have been running it for two years without a single problem. On the subject of brake lines, I have had mine secured by zip ties for almost two years without a single issue. Now I need to buy a front camber kit because the camber is at -2 degrees. This camber is a tire killer. I leave a picture of my Aerodeck with Bilstein B6 + Eibach Springs.

Got round to fitting the MG spoiler I got from Craig on here. Quick lick of plastidip and looks the part I reckon

Yeah it’s nice! He did a 2inch cat back for me and welded on a backbox I already had, had a nicer bassy tone and seems to flow a little better which is nice! He wouldn’t cat delete it which is fair I can just do that myself when I get round to it, and all in all it wasn’t the most expensive job, was more than I wanted to pay if I’m honest, but a lot less than another place I had a quote from so I can’t moan too much right! Only issue is that I told him it’s blowing from somewhere I just don’t know where, and whether or not he actually checked I don’t know but he said he couldn’t hear or see it, yet it remains so I dunno. He said it could be the thickness of the Chinese manifold I have on, because it’s that thin it’s noisy, but I find that hard to believe if I’m honest. I don’t think it’s the manifold, I don’t think it’s where the mani meets the downpipe, so now that only leaves where the downpipe meets the cat. Hopefully when I decat it, it goes away then! Still got a huge parts pile to get fitted, managed to find a zs180 rear roll bar and all the fittings with it for quite cheap, new front wishbones and hard race compliance bushes, front ball joints, track rods, trailing arm polybushes, the 282 for the front and braided lines, the z6 intake mani and fuel rail, some Chinese ‘Bride’ universal seat rails to fit ‘Bride’ seats, coilovers, lca’s and toe arms. Think that’s about it…. Ooh and a new head unit haha. Annnnd new rocker cover and gasket when it gets here. Hmm, tegiwa brake stopper for the MC. Then I think that’s fully it! Got that different shifter set up all sorted too, not sure I’ve seen anyone else with it on as of yet? I’ll try get some photos and give it a little review. Fully worth it though, better than any generic short shifter / kswap replica ones that are about. Also that reminds me I have to fit the detent springs in the gearbox too…..

Coming along nicely mate! I'm deffo replacing DDs "meep-meep" horn too, looking at maybevfittjng one from a MINI of all things as they're quite beefy!

So, did a good bit of work to the car again. This time I installed a proper mounting bracket for the cold air intake as the old hacked-off and jury-rigged intake mani bracket looked pretty bad, to be honest. Also installed a pair of much more serious sounding horns than that little beeper that the car came with. They sound a lot better than the OEM one did, and are quite a bit louder on top! After that I installed a set of new bumper screws - the original ones were completely rusted and cruddy, and one almost stripped completely when I took that bumper off! Then I got to work on my seat-project. As I said in my last post - the original seats make me sit a bit too high for my own tastes and I have been looking for either some high-quality (road legal) seat rails for aftermarket seats from either Recaro or some other brand, or a completely different way to sit lower than the original seats would allow me to. As it turns out ... you can fit CRX seats on the original M-chassis rails if you drill out the rivets and fabricate an adaptor plate out of steel (10mm thick in my case). I got lucky a few years ago and managed to take a pair of these seats off a guy for jsut 250 bucks total. :) Here's how the first prototype looks like: This was only to take a look and see if my idea could even work to begin with, and if it would make me sit lower than the OEM seats would, but as luck would have it ... this combo works flawlessly and I sit about 5 to 8 centimetres lower than I do in the stock seats! :D They are also quite a bit more comfortable, if a bit worn-out. Real plushy. :) But as things stand right now I'll just make a few more refinements to my adaptor brackets, give those seats a thorough cleaning session and maybe add some more side bolstering to give them a bit more of a sporty feel and I've got myself a nice pair of OEM Honda seats that do exactly what I want from them! :D

Long time no see... Small updates to the car only, got a steering wheel with quick release and installed these new wheels which I will use for the summer. This weekend I'm going to dial in the fitment completely adding some more camber (camber kit) and maybe spacers if needed.... To get most stance look as possible. I am so fan of the new wheels btw, they are awesome! Jr6 16x8 et25 if anyone is wondering, fits perfect... Waiting for some custom angel eyes headlights as well so they are coming on soon as well 😎

Hello, I've just got my Honda Civic Aerodeck 1.6LS import from Italy. I would like to know how much power steering fluid and brake fluid i have to buy so my mechanic can change them fully(steering fluid and the clutch and braking fluid).

Had the same issue a while ago. Engine ran fine and then suddenly - dead. You could even see the tach have a seizure a few moments before the engine died. My only fix was to get a new complete dizzy, as they don't sell just the pickups/sensors inside of them. Even a whole new coil and ECM module didn't help and I even tested out a different ECU altogehter. The problem is that most aftermarket dizzys for our Hondas are ... hot garbage, to be honest. If you buy a cheap-ish one, you'll quickly find yourself ordering the next one sooner than later. The only quality brand I've seen is based in the US, by the name of "Dragon Fire". I know, sounds kinda iffy, but their stuff even meets the IATF standard, meaning it really is better than all of that Chinesium-garbage off eBay, and I've been running it for almost half a year now without complaint! Costs a pretty penny, though. :/

so after my partners pug 106 quiksilver started have more problems then it was worth we sold it on. she wanted another civic as missed her ej9 and me having a civic didnt help. she wanted on bit bigger then the ej9 as kids now older so found a eu8 civic with 12 months mot and was in good shape. it was stock apart from some 17 inch alloys. i managed to find so ep3 type r bumpers and skirts cheap so got those. fitted front bumper and as rear bumper so to short for car i made plan to make rear lip fit. as the ep3 side skirt wasnt going fit and car already had side skirts i cut the end of the skirts off to extend rear lip. need fill join better but that be done in time. after more searching found so lowering springs, back box and projector headlights from a ep2 going cheap so had get them. once got took headlights apart and did inside black. fitted lowering spring and back box. we also debadged rear and wrapped chrome trim black and tinted rear lights. found a universal spoiler on ebay that looked like wud fit shape of car and was big enough for her. after abit i got some spray paint and painted rear lip and boot trim same colour as car. it little off but whole car needs deep clean. i picked up and carbon fiber exhuast tip as back box sat under bumper abit and didnt like that. finally then got the front bumper sprayed and put canards and splitter i made from spares and her owl fogs back in. few other bits car has is shark fin areil, rear bumper fins, wind deflectors and engine bay starting be sorted. still have few bits to sort

I will do at some point. It's in bits at the minute. Already had some modifications on the car which are not done to (in my opinion) a good standard. So undoing a lot of crap whilst putting my stamp on it I guess. But not going to go mad just want to do some track days in 2024 then may look at selling it. Can't see myself getting madly attached to it tbh.

Yup, deffo the sensor for the remote key fob.

Good afternoon everyone,I’ve just joined (just found your wonderful site) and just to say I own a 1996 civic MA 5 door hatch.(had an MB before) and has the dreaded headlining that has dropped. it’s mot is today ? , but wanted some advice please if that is ok. I would like the following and where is best to buy from, pair of rear light units (orange indicator ones) can you buy new or eBay ? pair of rear hatch struts eBay or someone like struts depot or somewhere else. passenger door mirror (electric unpainted black one). the only other issue is rear wiper washer isn’t working ( washer motor is working and a dribble came out but nothing now) I appreciate any help offered. thanks Gary.

Haven't updated in a while, big upgrades to the car is a full vtis lip kit and full 2.5 exhaust system with 200 cell cat.... Sounds amazing now 😍

Hi guys. We've just added a new feature to the forum, Popular Contributors. You should see a box at the bottom of the home page (depending on the device you are using) which shows our most popular contributors. You can change it from week to month and year. If you click on the "see more" this will give a full list of contributors. Don't see your name on it? Get posting! We love to hear from you, even if it's just a small update on your cars projet thread or posting a pic of your car. Have look through the different sections of the forum and see if there's maybe a question been asked that you can help with. Most of all, enjoy the forum. It's your club and site!

Hi folks. We have just created an updated version of our popular How To Guide No1 - ABS Fault Codes. The new version (2.0.0) now includes instructions for resetting the ABS light if it still stays on after you have replaced faulty ABS parts. You can find the new version in our downloads section or by clicking HERE Hope you like and find the new updated guide useful.😀

Wrapped the front bit behind plate today

Those headlights look amazing! Nicest conversion I've seen done to them. Headlight covers really do finish it of nicely, nice mix of retromod and OEM. Whole cars is looking superb mate, one of my fav members cars! Looks flawless.

Cheers, Dave! The idea is to just Cut out as much rust as possible, if in doubt cut it out! was a bit nerve racking at first making the cuts but once you get going its not too bad. and you can then just build from the ground up with fresh metal.

Thats really quick progres your making mate. Nice to see the end sill plate/aarch panels are available. Think i'd be bricking it to cut out the rusty metal but best thing to do, will leave you with a totally rut free shell. Your grandparents would be well proud of the work your doing to save their car. Hats off to you mate, deffo following this build!

Had the same issue, fixed it by fabricating a set of roughly 15mm thick steel plates that go between the top of the shock assembly and the underside of the strut tower. Couldn't even drive into my garage anymore without scraping the front tow hooks. Now it sits at about the same height as before.

Hello everyone, This is my Honda Civic MB3, 90k miles. I just came across this forum today, is there any active members? It needs some work doing however its a blast to drive!

Good idea to keep your ring clean mate I'll get me coat...

olsits a bit nicer imo now. Drives better too.

Never posted the results of my venture to give the front suspension an overhaul, but it's been done for a couple weeks at least now. Here are some pictures I used to be able to feel the left bearing rotating through my feet on the floor, it was definitely starting to fail, new bearings are smooth as butter. Steering is a bit snappier and direct, but the confidence it puts in the car is awesome. There's hardly any body roll at all, which is surprising considering it's still a stock ARB This thing finally feels underpowered, and I'm yearning for more...next up however, is the rear suspension. Rear LCAs, Camber and Toe arms up next. My Mb2 did not come with an ARB in the rear so perhaps i should invest in one, would it make much difference back there?

Ahh mate! The mats are lovely. Like arctic camo OEM s**gpiles! Very random. Yes can do double din where the cd player and cassette lives under the big flap at the bottom. Of course cam get large android screens like i have in the alphard too. When money allows ill look into something for it. Until then its got 3 prodigy albums in it. Took a few snaps tonight.

Hello all once again, i did the investigation regarding the scuttle panel. And needless to say i think i caught it in the nick of time although im still uncertain what lurks beneath the windscreen. I will be infact replacing this at somepoint later on in the project as it has delaminated at the bottom so my guess is water has gotten in and possibly caused a few issues however i did a bit of poking under the scuttle panel and everything all seems solid. I even got a camera underneath just to check and no signs of rust thankfully. However there are 2 patches that are on either side where the bonnet hinges are bolted to. So as a temporary measure i have just removed the rust used some Hydrate 80 and protected it with some etch primer. I will be returning to this and doing it properly with Epoxy primer and will probably just repaint the whole inner wings and arches alongside reseaming the seal that Honda did a recall on. I am just thankful that this was not holed otherwise it would be getting the MIG out again lmao. In other news i got a spare set of Lower Control Arms and have bought some new bushings to be installed, i will be getting these sand blasted and powder coated black so its all nice and original looking. All i need to do now is remove the bush sleeves... fun times

Yea I literally just did it a couple hours ago after I saw a guy on YouTube did it. Thank you!

Not updated for a while. Poppy been doing daily duties well, not had any issues so well happy. MOT was going to run out while Gayles away on holiday in May so decided to put her in early so I don't end up with no car! lol Knew there was a wheel bearing on it's way out as could hear the droaning noise. Jacked her up and checked all 4 wheels.......front pass side had slight play, all the rest were fine. Thought I'd put her in anyways, see if she passed with the wheel bearing then I could just change it once i got paid. Well, that didn't go to plan! She passe the 1st mot we put her through a year ago fine. This year she failed on: N/S/F wheel bearing (which we expected anyways but chanced our mit) Front left to right brake pipe corroded to excess Front to rear Brake pipe corroded to excess and weeping. I too was weeping when i saw the bill! lol😆 To be fair, they were still the oem pipes so no shame to it really, and deffo not nthe worst MOT I've ever had. Quite pleased as everything else was fine and I hadn't seen the pipe weeping so glad they spotted that and fixed it. Got the garage to just do all the work as I don't have it in me at the moment, so was £350 plus the mot fee. And they got it all done that day for me (even staying past their closing time to complete it for me) so very happy. What a difference driving her now without that awful wheel bearing noise!! Poppy now back to daily duties and driving ace! Next job to do is on the interior as quite a few creaks/rattles/squeaks for the dash plastics now so going to remove all the trims and line the back of them with felt which will get rid of any unwanted noises. Got the big pack of felt (self adhesive so will make it easier to fit) here ready for the job. Just need to get my head in a better place so I can start it!

Ended up re doing it using the dye neat and from a pressure spray bottle, got the carpets and headlining done too, massive pain but looks way better. Just the cream/beige interior plastics to sort now

It's pretty bonkers tbf. Performance is next level But..... Sold now unfortunately. Chaps coming to pick it up next week. I am sad, but feel it's time to try something else.

What a result mate! Saw Dynodaze had posted it up on their page, thought " I recognise that civic!" lol Beautiful car that has it all.......the looks....the stealth......the quality....the power!

Havent got a lot of photos but a few stickers here and there, New colored lights in the dashboard and a sexy photo in the end;)

HONDA CIVIC 'M' SERIES COMPATIBILITY DATABASE Civic5 accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or omissions from this database and all that STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS *Wheel and tyre info....Stock ET is 45 for all M's (widest recommended rim with this et is 6.5" at r15? ). DC2 alloys need spacers to fit over 282 calipers *Springs and shock absorbers....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. DC2 coilovers will need the Integra LCA. Matched springs and shocks are specific to the weight of the model so Aerodeck are different as are other civics or Integras. *Front upper wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/400/45/zs. EK is different the bushes are pressed into the arm. *Front lower wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Front hub carrier and balljoints....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Hubs....All M's use 4 x100 pcd hubs from contemporary civics except the MB6 which uses 4 x 114.3 (4.5") pcd hubs from the Integra and Prelude. *Front ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes *Rear ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes. *Front suspension bushings....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Track rod ends....Same as 45/400/zs *Steering rack...Same as 45/400 *PAS pump...Non Honda engined Rovers use flexible hosing (mounted on right of engine) *Rear trailing arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. Drum versions can not be converted to disc. *Rear upper control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear lower control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ej/400/45/zs. Some LCA's do not have a mounting for an ARB. *Rear toe adjuster....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Trailing arm (compliance) bush....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear suspension bushes....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs BODY PANELS AND LIGHTS *Front bumper....All different, to change MA to MB you also need to change bonnet (and front crossmember?) MB6 front lips will not fit the MA without modification. *Rear bumper....MB will fit MA *Sideskirts........MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit the same mounting points. Vti-s and ZS180 having variations in style. *Front wings....All different *Bonnet....All different. *Bonnet catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same. Catch lever varies on MA. *Scuttle cover....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Windscreen....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Door glass.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Tailgate....MA/MB same apart from number plate surround. *Tailgate catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same, all standard struts will take the weight of the standard vti spoiler. *Doors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Headlights.... MA/MB slightly different outer shape. There are no aftermarket headlights. *Taillights....MB fit MA, MB have clear indicators, MA amber. *Side repeaters.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Fog lights....MA and MB have slightly different surrounds? *Wing mirrors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit same, some electric, some manual *Sunroof.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same. *Handles and other trim pieces.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same apart from number plate surrounds/ rear light trims. INTERIOR *Front seats and rails....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Other Honda seats will need modification to the rails. *Rear seats and rails....MA/MB same ZS will not fit. *Centre console....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Some models have a centre arm rest that fits all M's *Dashboard....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. The MB6 vti-s has carbon dash inserts. *Steering wheel....MA/MB same MB6 has leather finish. Rover will fit but are trispoke so you will not be able to get rid of the Rover airbag and logo. (DC2 will fit with modification?) *Steering column....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Switches etc....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Instrument cluster....MA/MB/400/45 same. (ZS 180 and MB6 have different tacho's?) *Door cards....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Pillar trims....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Headlining....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Rear mirror....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Parcel shelf....MA/MB *Audio components....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same. The MB6 and some Rovers have better speakers and door tweeters that fit all M's. BRAKING COMPONENTS *Front discs....262 except MB6 which uses the 282 system. Some companies make 282 rotors to fit 4x 100 hubs (generally as an upgrade to EG civics) *Rear discs/drums *Front calipers....Single pot lucas 262 system. Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. 282 for MB6. *Rear calipers....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ. *Master cylinder....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ.(?) Does the 'teg use this too? *Brake fluid.... *Brake hoses....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. Drum and disc versions are different. *Rear Disc backing plates part numbers. SMD000080  SMD000090 From RimmerBros (order for MGZS) Just checked still showing in stock around 25 each (as of 21/3/2020)  ECU AND ELECTRICAL OBD Loom/ aftermarket wiring Lamda IACV FIT VTEC controlers Fuses and resistors Battery Alternator D SERIES ENGINES- D14A2, D14A4, D14A3 (EDM), D14A8, D15Z1, D15Z8, D16B2, D16Y5. Engine mounts Sparkplugs Engine oil Oil filter Fuel filter Distributer HT leads Valves and valvetrain parts Cam Cambelt Cam gears Crank Pistons Con rods Intake Throttle body Intake manifold Radiator Fan Thermostat Coolant FI info B SERIES ENGINES- B18C4 Same sort of stuff TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS Shifter UJ Shift rod Extension rod Shift bushings Clutch Master cylinder Reservoir Release cylinder Gearbox Gearbox oil Driveshafts EXHAUST COMPONENTS Manifold....B and D series engines use a slightly different manifold Cat section....UKDM cat (different length from the JDM cat) Mid section....MA/MB all same (?) do rover fit? Backbox....MA/MB all same except Aerodeck which has a longer tail (?) There's probably a lot I've missed off, might be best to improve it as we fill out the list? We probably ought to have glossary for terms (stuff like DC2, EG, ITR, IM, PCD) to make it accessible for noobs and non Honda geeks