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Hi Ben, The calipers in the photo are for the 260mm front brakes, not the larger 280mm front brakes. Manufacturer caliper numbers for the larger calipers are LCA333 & RCA333. You can use eBay to get the oem numbers from them. Basically the calipers are the same for the mg zs180, mg zr160 & accord of that era, but the carriers differ i believe (ive not checked any fit on an mb other than a zs). I can confirm that the calipers and carriers from the zs180 will fit onto a mb2 4x100 as thats what I'm currently running! If youre upgrading the brakes you'll need to change the master cylinder and prop valve if you don't have abs for it to work properly. My setup is: Honda Civic MB6 brake master cylinder Honda Civic MB6 brake servo Honda 40/40 brake prop valve (46210-S5A-912) Wezmoto Braided front and rear brake lines (700mm front / 560mm rear) MG ZS 180 Front & Rear brake calipers MG ZS 180 Front & Rear brake discs Cheers, Dan

Finally getting around to a build thread for my third car It all started on a dull early may day. A Friend of mine messaged me, asking if I needed any parts from her MB4 before she scrapped it. It had been sitting on her drive since she her daughter had been born. I said to her, "let me know what the scrappy offers, and i'll chuck £50 on top and come grab it", knowing that the d16w4 powerplant in this could replace my lathargic D14 in my MB2 The next day me and a mate collected it, threw some trade plates on and ran up to my workshop. Even with the old 4 speed slush-box, and a years neglect, the MB4 walked away from my MB2 on a straight bit of road. Once we arrived, my friend parked the car up and then headed home. I then stood and had a smoke, looking at this car having a "Wangan midnight" esque moment, seeing the colour of the Sicilian Red paint for the first time. Plans had changed. (see attached image) Rust and engine work: First I got the car up on stands and made a list of everything wrong with it. The rear passenger sill and inner arch passed the good old screwdriver test, however the driver's side failed miserably, along with a few places around the front jacking point, and front inner arch. Out came the grinder, welder, and some conveniently shaped and cut sheet metal that I would be using to patch these big holes. This was a steep learning curve, as I have only ever done agricultural welding, and never thin bodywork. Once the rust was dealt with next came the auto box - I had never planned to keep this gearbox, so the hunt for an s20 close ratio box began. During this time, the auto box, torque converter and PRND lever were all disposed of in an appropriate fashion (Thrown into a skip as fast as humanly possible🤣), meanwhile, the engine was suspended by a ratchet strap around 2 on the gearbox bolts, and a random 2x4 i had laying about across the wings (See attached) Whilst the box was off, I decided to replace the rear main seal, sump gasket, and clean out the oil pickup tube. A few shiny parts were fitted during this time too, including an oil sandwich plate with senders for both oil pressure and temp, HKS oil filter, TTV flywheel and an exedy stage 1 clutch. Once I sourced a box, the new mounts were fitted up and after a copious amount of faffing around the engine and box were in. (I wish I had an engine crane!!) I altered the wiring on the PRND plug to disable the inhibitor switch, as well as the reverse lights. I finished under the bay by rebuilding the distributor, replacing the plugs and HT leads. I also added a bus bar to the firewall as my battery was going to be boot mounted. I am using a Janspeed 4-2-1 manifold, a smashed out OEM cat shell and a Skunk2 megapower exhaust system. I have a Whale pen15 air intake as well. Interior: This car had a creme interior, which I knew wouldn't survive me daily driving it. I quickly tore this out, installed a load of sound deadening and the various wires i'd be needing for my ICE setup, then fitted a black carpet and VTI "bus seat" interior. I mounted the battery and circuit breaker in the spare wheel well, as well as a power distribution block. this would be needed when I got around to building the boot and fitting my 3 amps. I finished the interior off with an oil pressure and temperature gauge set, a fire extinguisher, and an old school pioneer flipout headunit + DVD player. Exterior: The exterior is largely untouched, as it is the rare sicilian red pearl colour. This car was factory specced with a full VTIs kit and Jordan wheels. The jordan wheels went onto my other MB2, so that I could fit my 15" TSW imola wheels. I welded the rear wiper hole up, and the old spoiler holes. I then fitted an "auto spoiler", which had been preiovsly fitted to a friend's recently imported 200sx. This was an almost perfect colour match.

See attached, will be posting some more in the near future about rebuilding my engine haha

Smaller power steering pulley (hopefully it will clear the bonnet without hacking any big holes in it) and 10% underdrive alternator pulley fitted As we've deleted the AC the factory belt was much too long (think it was something like 7pk1735 from memory). Managed to find a belt that will fit (7PK1400) - it seems ok but apparently there is a mark on the tensioner that you can check - i'll do this next time im with the car to confirm but seems like the right size. Engine mounts ordered - I went for Innovative Mounts for a Civic EG as the price for Hasport mounts in the UK is insane (£700+!) and I wanted to avoid ebay china copied junk on this project...

Thanks for the update on the fogs - I managed to get a set of good condition blanking plates so i've removed the fairly rotten big fogs for now but I may reinstate them later. Left the connectors tied up behind. A bit more progress on the K-swap side of things: Drilled a couple of holes in the firewall just under the heater outlet to allow for the shifter cables to pass through (no photo, oops) Got hold of a billet shifter plate designed for an EG but it was sitting too proud of the tunnel so drilled out the fasteners for the shifter base plate and removed it DC5 shifter mocked up - was worried that it would be too close to the dashboard but it seems to just about be ok - the shifter box came with a short shifter already fitted which should help things Clutch and flywheel test fit - just waiting for various missing bolts to arrive from Japan before buttoning it all up. Toyed with the idea of getting an uprated clutch but we've gone with Exedy OEM EP3 clutch for now as it's many times cheaper than an uprated one (£126 vs ~£400) and I reckon it'll be OK for NA power levels. Any future plans to boost the car would require an LSD as well as a clutch upgrade anyway! Flywheel is a Competition Clutch 3.9kg

A rather inebriated looking K24A showed up this morning But it has the RBB markings on the head which is what matters - meaning it is the "full fat" version with 3-lobe VTEC and ~200hp. There is a similar looking version with 160hp and only 2 cam lobes so you have to be careful! Hopefully get that mounted up onto an engine stand at some point and take a closer look inside but so far so good. For peace of mind i'm going to give it a compression test and have a peek into the cylinders with a scope before going any further.

Happy Christmas everyone! Hope that you're all having a great festive break! 🎄🎄🎄🎄

You are technically right about not needing the whole trailing arms, but good luck with both finding the spindles by themselves in usable condition and taking the old ones off. Finding parts like that is getting progressively hard as our cars start to turn into oldtimers, and most of these super specific upgrade parts have already been grabbed about a decade ago. We're kinda late to the party in that regard. The spindles are also secured to the trailing arms with extremely strong threadlocker, which oftentimes are pretty old and corroded on top, which makes removing them near impossible without drilling them out. Stripped a bolt attempting to remove the disc brake ones, even with applying heat and using rust remover beforehand. No chance. So, yes - you technically don't need them, but realistically you will. Except if you're fine with drilling all of the bolts out and dealing with that headache. And the part about bleeding the brakes is also generally correct. Most cars have their brake systems set up like that so you can still come to a stop if a brake line fails. Otherwise if you combine FR with RR / FL with RL you will only have working brakes on one side of your car, which I don't have to explain why that would be very bad.

ok, its been some time... but i want to share few photos from a civic photoshoot i made recently. This is how it currently looks like.

Amazing reply from SirPaperbag! Just to add ive done this swap on my (non abs) mb2, but also upgraded a few things. My setup is as follows and works sweet: Disc trailing arms off a mc1 aerodeck MB6 brake booster MB6 1" master cylinder Mgzs 180 282mm front calipers (interesting the caliper is the same as from a 97-03 accord, not sure on the carrier) Mgzs 180 262mm rear calipers 46210-S5A-912 40-40 prop valve Regarding the rear arb - the rear brace that SirPaperbag mentions won't fit without modification. DeLaSoul mentions it in his build thread - if I remember correctly the mounting points where the LCAs mount to the chassis are about 8mm narrower on our MBs to EKs

Small update on the whole brake prop valve situation: Apparently, EG6 prop valves could also work, as they don't have ABS and 262/242mm rotors in the front and rear, just like our M-chassis Civics. So, if that's true, you could get a brand new valve for less than $200 from Japan. Part number for these bad boys is 46210-SR3-013 And you should be fine sticking with your original brake master cylinder + booster! But if you've got 242mm discs all around instead you'd need a "1725" valve (46210-1725-XXX) off a Del Sol, not off an EE/ED/EF Civic! (Different f/r rotor sizes)

Got some from Climair installed rn, and they fit very well. They're still available brand new. Only thing I had to do is grind off a bit of the holding tab in the front (was a bit too long) but that's completely normal with these things. And you can even choose between clear, tinted, and dark, which I find quite nice.

Good shout mate, I'll se about getting this added to FAQ. And thank you, cracking info there!

A reply this detailed deserves to be in the FAQ section of this site! It really seems a more difficult job than a cam swap and a tune haha If I ever manage to stumble upon the main parts for a cheap enough price (Hondas in general were very expensive relative to other cars here in Italy so not many sales...) to justify all the work I'll definitely try. Thanks for all the info!

Great post there mate

The part about needing new trailing arms is 100% correct, as the drum brake ones lack the proper mounting points for a disc brake system. But you've got to be careful with which arms you choose, as the wrong ones could end up increasing your rear trackwidth and that's gonna end badly for your handling. As our M-chassis have borrowed a lot of suspension components from 5th gen Civics (EG), I'd recommend searching for EG5/EG6/etc. trailing arms, as they should keep everything in spec. I for one got a pair of EG5 arms to go with my non-ABS system. But that's only part of the problem. If you've somehow managed to get yourself the right trailing arms then you still have to find a matching brake proportioning valve (or prop valve) that splits the pressure correctly between front and rear. Otherwise your rear brakes might either not bite enough, or bite too much and cause the rear to kick out while braking (very dangerous). This is especially important if you've got something like an MOT or TÜV here in Germany, where your car gets an inspection every X years and they check your brake performance. M-chassis Civics also use an old style of prop valve, which makes it EVEN HARDER to find the correct ones. What you generally want to get is called a "4040" valve, which is just the model number, nothing more (some dumbasses online claimed those valves split 40/40, but where the hell would the remaining 20% go?) I also found a nifty table somewhere on an obscure forum, and I don't know where exactly I got it from, so I sadly can't attribute the original poster, but here it is: And depending on the caliper sizing, you might even have to upgrade your master cylinder, but that's getting really technical. So, in short, get the correct trailing arms, a somewhat correct prop valve and maybe upgrade your master cylinder. If you want to do it properly, it's a whole lot more work than just doing enough for it to work. Pro Tip: You can also fine-tune your front/rear balance by using more or less aggressive pads. And regarding rear ARBs, you've got a choice between either buying some used EG6 brackets, using aftermarket ones, and reinforcement braces with mounts included. I went with a used EG6 ARB, plus mounting hardware, because I wanted to try out how much difference just that dingy little thing would make (a lot). Here are a few pics of it both installed, and some pics of the used mounting hardware. You also need fitting lower control arms with mounting holes for the endlinks. And I'd recommend buying new endlinks while you're at it. And maybe a few harder rubber bushings on top. I also had to fabricate some small metal standoffs for the mounting bracket to properly fit to the rear frame (top right picture, the screw just above the yellow marking). This would be the alternative, a rear brace with mounts included: But some places also carry aftermarket versions of the OG hardware that I mentioned and shower earlier, so that's an option, as well. All in all, it's a s**t job with tons of little hang-ups, researching, browsing marketplaces and painful installation, but the handling difference is night and day.

Hello to all of you, First time posting on the forum, kinda wanted to share a bit about my mb2 since i first came to find some knowledge about these mb chassis. It's my first car, family owned since new and it's getting to the 100k km mark, and in my two years of driving and enjoying the car i can say it's a great car and frankly very underrated and deserves a lot more recognition The car has nothing major done to it, it's mostly stock aside from some small cosmetics. The mods are: Front mudflaps out of a junkyard pirate black mb2 1DIN android auto radio Reuphostered steering wheel Rear spoiler out of a Rover I have many plans for it later but most of em are cosmetics and i won't bother to modify a D14, maybe just a intake at best since the oem one is plastic. It's getting lowered and i want it to ride on some ek4 vti rims, or civic jordan rims and vti lip is also in the list Cheer, Costa.

Great, that means I am okay with the dash trims already. Hoping to find a badge and some mats in the meantime 🤞Just ping me if you want to get rid of that badge.

One lady owner from new , has every single mileage stamp from the same Honda dealerships from new 86k on clock, its pretty clean i did replace Headliner as it was sagging, just a little runs on rear arch's that i would love to sort out but not a clue who to go too this is my first car coming from motorcycles , yours looks so mint dude!

Been chipping away at jobs the last few weeks and should be ready to drive soon. Everything in the engine bay should be done now - had a quick tidy up any loose pipes/wires and made sure everything was bolted down securely. It's not a super tucked show car but I think it's neat and tidy enough for the type of build that it is. Plus everything is easily accessible for servicing! Fitted a small washer fluid bottle - £10 from Amazon so it's a bit cheap and cheerful but it connected straight onto the factory washer pump connector and lines! Removed the rear washer pipe as we've already removed the rear wiper. The Hybrid Racing cold air intake bolts into where the factory washer bottle sits so it had to go. Picked up a set of Enkei RP01 (15x7 ET35) wheels for a reasonable price (about the same as i'd pay for a set of Rotas or similar). Will get some tyres on them this week and see how they look on the car. The main thing is they fit fine over the MG ZS front callipers with plenty of room to spare. I wasn't sure they would initially as the ZS came on 16s, although admittedly with much less offset. They've been rattle canned by the previous owner but honestly he (or she) has really not done a bad job at all. Initially I was looking to change the colour but for now they will do as is, for now I'd rather spend money on getting the car working than cosmetics!

Thanks, it's an alpine unit so even though it's new I think it fits with the 90s-ish vibe of the car. It's no doubt the brand I would've gone for if I had the money back in the day haha. It has RGB lighting so I can change it to march the dash which is nice (I'm being picky but I don't like it when the colours don't match!) The car came with a pretty retro looking JVC CD player but only 1 channel was working for some reason and it had a really shoddy aftermarket Bluetooth kit (calls only) with wires bodged in all over the place so I thought it was best to bin it all and fit something new I did consider not bothering with a head unit but even though the build leans towards track car, I've been in cars which are totally stripped before and whilst you might be able to get an extra 20kg out by removing the heater, stereo, half the dash, etc, it makes the car unusable for anything other than trailering really Yes he basically said he managed to get it all down the side by sticking a pair of long noise pliers through the popped out hazard switch and holding the cables out of the way of the head unit I've stripped everything from the front seats back and deleted the air con (it was broken anyway) so I'm not even sure I'll be able to hear the radio over the rattling but that's about the extent of the weight reduction for now. It should be a lightweight chassis anyway as it doesn't have a sunroof or other luxury features 😂

Got this photo from my father in law this morning that he got the head unit in in about 5 mins on the first try, always the way 🙃

More progress MB6 dash installed and MB6 cluster fitted Modified the centre console slightly (basically just removing the tray in front of the gear stick) to accommodate the shifter box Cut a hole in the back of the glovebox and mounted the ECU inside Installed a steering wheel boss and OMP 300mm wheel Unfortunately I wasted a couple of hours trying to get the head unit to fit in the dash as I was struggling with all the spiders web of cables behind so I couldn't get it rolling today 🥲 but it's a marathon not a sprint!

No pics unfortunately as had my head down but some good progress on the car: Engine back in the car and running without any timing codes, great success! Managed to fix an issue with the shifter, I wasn't able to select 1st or 2nd gear. I tried getting another set of shifter cables as the ones I had with the shifter were a bit too short and didn't look like the pictures of "correct" sets i'd seen. Turns out I had set the gearbox cable bracket up wrong - for future reference the brackets should be in the "forward" position as per this image (thanks to the helpful soul on facebook who pointed this out when I posted a last ditch question in a kswap group!): Started to fit an MB6 VTI dashboard that I was kindly gifted by a chap called Sam who I bought a few other bits off. My original one had the fake wood trim which wasn't my favourite and some absolute vandal had attached a phone holder directly to it with wood screws! Removed the passenger airbag, removed the cover from it and refitted the cover back into the dash to cover the ugly hole that was left Another solid day on it and I reckon first drive soon (a very short one out of VTEC as driving on the wrong engine map, with open headers on 15 year old budget tyres isn't the greatest idea!!)

Spent the bank holiday installing the new timing chain/guides/tensioner, service manual print outs in hand and triple checking everything. All sealed up now, should be able to get the engine back in next weekend, all being well. Chain that was on was stretched - not by as much as some i've seen but the main difference I noticed is the chain tensioner was quite far extended whereas the new one is much less extended, maybe it couldn't take up the slack or something jumped on first start. Anyway, hopefully this is all sorted now. Also changed the crank pulley seal as I don't ever want to be going in there again!

Quick pic of the mini honda meet at ours now. Karen's civic, Steppy McStepwagon, and Tubs2 (aka Shelly) Still waiting for the bumper for the wagon.. Got one sent eventually, but they sent the wrong one, so waiting for it to be collected and swapped. Other than that it's mot ready.

thanks Simon 👍 yes looking at the rubber parts, found the parts for the top e.g. Items 9 & 6 , struggling with the bump stop ATM, Item 11, PN 51722-st3-e01.

Shifter mounted properly in car and cables routed. Some hacking up of the console will obviously be required but I should be able to have all the dashboard etc back in Shifter cable plate in place - still needs a bit of work to get the other two bolts mounted and enlarge the hole in the grommet slightly. It's sitting at a less than ideal angle but it was the best placing we could come up with - the DC5 shifter cables we're using are on the shorter side Air con delete block off plate fitted so no huge hole directly into the cabin!

Well, the tourer is no more, a nice chap from Wales bought it, and it's either going to be saved to tow his race eg, or end up as an engine donor for it. Karen's got herself a nice blue R18 fk civic, but it's not any good for family adventures. So we've just got a new project...

Can confirm these are direct replacement to the existing big fogs. You might need to swap the plug over however. If I remember correctly the front seal wasn't great so I used a big o-ring between the glass and the front screw on cap piece to keep the water out

Yes definitely! Focus at the moment is building up the engine ready to go into the car. I've got most of the things sorted that need/are easier to go into the car before the engine is in place, e.g. the shifter box, shifter cables and the power steering hoses (it's a real pain to reach the bottom of the PS rack with the engine in!) ready to go now I haven't got any engine mounts sorted yet but im hoping that some genuine Civic EG hasport ones come up for sale used at some point. They're incredibly expensive new (£750!) so I can see why people are tempted by chinese knock offs you can get on ebay, but personally I won't do that. You can get an alternative from Innovative Mounts for about £400 or so, but I dont need to order yet until i'm ready. A lot of these parts, its worth biding your time and seeing what comes up for sale on marketplace, ebay etc rather than getting things new as usually the price is high because it's come from the USA generally and import duties etc are rolled into the price. I've also managed to purchase a VTI-S front lip and side skirts from a car being broken, along with some door mouldings that were in better condition than ours which are all cracked and horrible (the ones right under the window on the top of the outside of the door). They seem to not be available new, i've tried both Honda and Rover part numbers. Most of the clips got smashed during the process of prising them out (I think you're supposed to do it from the reverse side with the door card out to release them) but it seems like you can still get those new fortunately. Also got a set of used MB-specific Meister-R coil overs which seem to be in very good condition so that was a score as they're also pretty pricey new. The rear lip is elusive but I think we may end up modifying the bumper somehow anyway depending on exhaust fitment etc so it's probably just as well for the time being.

yeah it should be compatible.

Quick test pic

Thank you for the warm welcome both I am basically following guides for an EG K-swap as the car seems to be almost identical as far as a K swap is concerned. Even the EG conversion harness (to connect the new engine loom to the existing car loom) appears to work for the MB. Spent a day on the car today and progress as follows: Bye bye D14! Some areas of surface rust in the engine bay that we'll go over with a flap wheel and spraypaint over just to stop it getting any worse but not found anything that needs any welding etc so that's good news Made a bit of a mess knocking out the leftmost engine mount bracket (required to install the EGK2 Hasport mounts). Drilled all the spot welds out but it still wasn't budging so ended up going in behind it with a hammer and chisel and it eventually came off - the chassis has suffered a few battle scars but nothing a bit of sanding and paint can't cure! I've agreed to buy an EP3 civic gearbox so now that the gearbox has been chosen the next job I think will be to get hold of a shifter from an Integra DC5 and get that mounted in the car and get the shifter cables fed through to the engine bay and the shifter mounted. If i'd gone for an FN2 or accord gearbox I would've needed an accord shifter as the pattern is reversed. And finally my first mod! A set of clear indicators, I believe they were from an accord - I had to file off a small tab on the casing to get them to fit the connector was a direct swap so that's a good result

New OEM-grade replacements should be a safe bet. Even if they are not as stiff as 'upgrade' parts (which are only an upgrade if you want to track your car), they are still a lot better than any old, chewed out bushings.

Hi everyone, My name's Nishan, since ive been reading through some of the threads I figured id make an introductory post 🙂 Ive got an manual MC1 aerodeck with a D16W4 on 118k that I picked up as an MOT failure about a month ago for £800, its got an enormous stack of history and im the 3rd owner Been fixing her up slowly over the last month, getting the bits done for a fresh MOT, rear passenger caliper was seized when I bought it and was pretty much the first thing I did along with discs and pads both sides on the rear. Next issue to sort was the horn not working which I stupidly assumed was the clockspring since I had the exact same issue on my first car which was a D14 mb6 and I know its a common issue on old civics. Replaced it and ended up buying a used horn since my multimeter packed up so I just guessed it had to be one of the two. Replaced both the sidelight bulbs since they had burnt out and lastly i had an exhaust leak from the mid section and backbox, since someone had previously taken a few speed bumps pretty enthusiastically and put a nice collection of holes on the bottom managed to score the backbox and mid section for £100 on ebay brand new and almost finished fitting it last weekend, just need to drill out the old bolts to the cat that are pretty in there and that should pass me the MOT fingers crossed 😀. Im thinking of doing some coolant bypass bits as I've heard its a good modification on the D series engines. If anyone knows a thread that explains how best to go about it or has done it themselves please let me know, would be much appreciated Im aiming to put it on the road as my daily as I'm currently dailying a manual honda accord CM2 2.2 diesel which has a nasty bit of timing chain rattle, so im gonna switch them around and daily the civic while I replace the timing chain along with any other bits that need doing. Any info in regards to preventative maintenance on the aerodeck would be greatly appreciated as im not super well versed in the common issues these suffer from. Cheers guys 😁

many thanks both, I had a quick look for repair panels yesterday, they do exist but not found for inner arch yet. also not sure how they compare e.g. in thickness terms with OE body shell ? suggestions on best place to buy the panels appreciated. otherwise I will just carry on googling. ours has been garaged (unheated though) so it is out of the weather, except when used - it's still the daily driver.

Okay, so it is possible, but quite difficult in practice. Nonetheless, this is the route I am going to take since the disc trailing arms I have are unfortunately bent. The spindles are in good condition so I will probably bring them to a specialist to be removed and later on installed. Wish me luck! Also, what did you do about the handbrake cables; I bought EG ones, however I am not sure if they will fit.

I started out with the heko ones, but then got a set of the Climair ones, which are a bit better.

Hi Dave, Sorry for the late reply. the filler neck on mine was a sod to remove as it was rusty, and the rubber pipe had hardened and lost its flexibility. the trailing arm and strut got in the way, so i had to lower the tank down and kind of feed it through. Good news is though, if yours is rusty a Rover 45 filler neck will be identical and probably much tidier.

With ECU stuff OBD1 really is the way to go, because whether or not you decide to chip it or put an S300 in it, it's basically the best choice to use an old OBD1 ECU. I've actually got a S300 installed in my Civic right now and since it's a pre-facelift it already was OBD1 from the factory. But OBD1 conversions are relatively easy and well documented online. Depending on your personal tastes you could also go with a standalone ECU like a Link or Haltech unit. They cost roughly the same as a S300, but offer a very different featureset and more modern management options. (But they are not plug-and-play) And while I don't have any experience turboing cars, I'd say a relatively safe power figure for a D16 would be 160 to 180-ish hp. (Those conrods are thin) Already took apart a spare D16Z6 that I bought this summer, as I plan to completely rebuild it for a high comp NA build, and when I held those tiny little spaghetti-conrods in my hands I almost couldn't believe that those suckers manage to survive regularly hitting 7500RPM!

Basically any D-Series manifold will fit all kinds of engines out of that particular family. Except D17s, those are "special" (aka the worst engines Honda ever made). Got a 4-2-1 header myself that I bought when my car still had the stock D14 in it and it directly fit my D16Z9 without any modifications. And I can attest to the rust concerns - my rear arches were pretty bad (but still manageable) when I got mine, the front corners where the fenders meet the sideskirts were rotten through and the rear corners are also slowly starting to bloom, as well. Definitely make sure to check those spots when you've got the time! Oh, and your distributor is probably going to die at some point. All of them do, it's kind of inevitable. Do yourself a favor and don't get one of those repro units when it finally goes out - Blueprint and Yingzhen and whatnot units are all Chinesium garbage. The only high-quality replacement I could find was one of those rather tacky sounding "Dragon Fire" units, but quality-wise they are pretty much OEM+, made in the US (not China), and even provide a stronger spark than the stock dizzys do. Other than that, welcome to the club! :)