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Finally getting around to a build thread for my third car It all started on a dull early may day. A Friend of mine messaged me, asking if I needed any parts from her MB4 before she scrapped it. It had been sitting on her drive since she her daughter had been born. I said to her, "let me know what the scrappy offers, and i'll chuck £50 on top and come grab it", knowing that the d16w4 powerplant in this could replace my lathargic D14 in my MB2 The next day me and a mate collected it, threw some trade plates on and ran up to my workshop. Even with the old 4 speed slush-box, and a years neglect, the MB4 walked away from my MB2 on a straight bit of road. Once we arrived, my friend parked the car up and then headed home. I then stood and had a smoke, looking at this car having a "Wangan midnight" esque moment, seeing the colour of the Sicilian Red paint for the first time. Plans had changed. (see attached image) Rust and engine work: First I got the car up on stands and made a list of everything wrong with it. The rear passenger sill and inner arch passed the good old screwdriver test, however the driver's side failed miserably, along with a few places around the front jacking point, and front inner arch. Out came the grinder, welder, and some conveniently shaped and cut sheet metal that I would be using to patch these big holes. This was a steep learning curve, as I have only ever done agricultural welding, and never thin bodywork. Once the rust was dealt with next came the auto box - I had never planned to keep this gearbox, so the hunt for an s20 close ratio box began. During this time, the auto box, torque converter and PRND lever were all disposed of in an appropriate fashion (Thrown into a skip as fast as humanly possible🤣), meanwhile, the engine was suspended by a ratchet strap around 2 on the gearbox bolts, and a random 2x4 i had laying about across the wings (See attached) Whilst the box was off, I decided to replace the rear main seal, sump gasket, and clean out the oil pickup tube. A few shiny parts were fitted during this time too, including an oil sandwich plate with senders for both oil pressure and temp, HKS oil filter, TTV flywheel and an exedy stage 1 clutch. Once I sourced a box, the new mounts were fitted up and after a copious amount of faffing around the engine and box were in. (I wish I had an engine crane!!) I altered the wiring on the PRND plug to disable the inhibitor switch, as well as the reverse lights. I finished under the bay by rebuilding the distributor, replacing the plugs and HT leads. I also added a bus bar to the firewall as my battery was going to be boot mounted. I am using a Janspeed 4-2-1 manifold, a smashed out OEM cat shell and a Skunk2 megapower exhaust system. I have a Whale pen15 air intake as well. Interior: This car had a creme interior, which I knew wouldn't survive me daily driving it. I quickly tore this out, installed a load of sound deadening and the various wires i'd be needing for my ICE setup, then fitted a black carpet and VTI "bus seat" interior. I mounted the battery and circuit breaker in the spare wheel well, as well as a power distribution block. this would be needed when I got around to building the boot and fitting my 3 amps. I finished the interior off with an oil pressure and temperature gauge set, a fire extinguisher, and an old school pioneer flipout headunit + DVD player. Exterior: The exterior is largely untouched, as it is the rare sicilian red pearl colour. This car was factory specced with a full VTIs kit and Jordan wheels. The jordan wheels went onto my other MB2, so that I could fit my 15" TSW imola wheels. I welded the rear wiper hole up, and the old spoiler holes. I then fitted an "auto spoiler", which had been preiovsly fitted to a friend's recently imported 200sx. This was an almost perfect colour match.

See attached, will be posting some more in the near future about rebuilding my engine haha

Smaller power steering pulley (hopefully it will clear the bonnet without hacking any big holes in it) and 10% underdrive alternator pulley fitted As we've deleted the AC the factory belt was much too long (think it was something like 7pk1735 from memory). Managed to find a belt that will fit (7PK1400) - it seems ok but apparently there is a mark on the tensioner that you can check - i'll do this next time im with the car to confirm but seems like the right size. Engine mounts ordered - I went for Innovative Mounts for a Civic EG as the price for Hasport mounts in the UK is insane (£700+!) and I wanted to avoid ebay china copied junk on this project...

Thanks for the update on the fogs - I managed to get a set of good condition blanking plates so i've removed the fairly rotten big fogs for now but I may reinstate them later. Left the connectors tied up behind. A bit more progress on the K-swap side of things: Drilled a couple of holes in the firewall just under the heater outlet to allow for the shifter cables to pass through (no photo, oops) Got hold of a billet shifter plate designed for an EG but it was sitting too proud of the tunnel so drilled out the fasteners for the shifter base plate and removed it DC5 shifter mocked up - was worried that it would be too close to the dashboard but it seems to just about be ok - the shifter box came with a short shifter already fitted which should help things Clutch and flywheel test fit - just waiting for various missing bolts to arrive from Japan before buttoning it all up. Toyed with the idea of getting an uprated clutch but we've gone with Exedy OEM EP3 clutch for now as it's many times cheaper than an uprated one (£126 vs ~£400) and I reckon it'll be OK for NA power levels. Any future plans to boost the car would require an LSD as well as a clutch upgrade anyway! Flywheel is a Competition Clutch 3.9kg

Hi folks. Had a 2010 Civic TypeS GT in red (aka Sexy Lexy) about 9 years ago, followed by a 2008 Civic TypeR in silver (aka Roxy). Traded the TypeR in for something more sensible for a daily driver, and have had a load of various cars since then. Always missed my TypeS tho! Was supposed to be looking for a classic 1980s Vw Golf convertible or an old Scirocco, but got fed up looking at sheds. Decided plan B was needed which was to sell my 1st Gen MINI Cooper s convertible and get a sensible daily driver again! Initially looked at 10th gen civics, but wasn't too keen on the style, so the hunt was on for a TypeS GT again (pref in red). Had to be the GT, had to be the 1.8 and no older than a 2010. Found one down in Yorkshire for £4.5k, years mot, service history, 64k on the clock,in red....and even the first 2 letters of the reg were the same as my old one (OE). She drives like a brand new car, so happy to be back in an 8th gen! Only got a few pics of her so far but will get more. Hope you like! Some subtle mods on the way, pretty much the same as I did withLexy senior lol Oh, and also means DD is relieved of the daily driving duties, so tucked up in the garage. Means I can spend time getting her back to show standard now!

Happy Christmas everyone! Hope that you're all having a great festive break! 🎄🎄🎄🎄

You are technically right about not needing the whole trailing arms, but good luck with both finding the spindles by themselves in usable condition and taking the old ones off. Finding parts like that is getting progressively hard as our cars start to turn into oldtimers, and most of these super specific upgrade parts have already been grabbed about a decade ago. We're kinda late to the party in that regard. The spindles are also secured to the trailing arms with extremely strong threadlocker, which oftentimes are pretty old and corroded on top, which makes removing them near impossible without drilling them out. Stripped a bolt attempting to remove the disc brake ones, even with applying heat and using rust remover beforehand. No chance. So, yes - you technically don't need them, but realistically you will. Except if you're fine with drilling all of the bolts out and dealing with that headache. And the part about bleeding the brakes is also generally correct. Most cars have their brake systems set up like that so you can still come to a stop if a brake line fails. Otherwise if you combine FR with RR / FL with RL you will only have working brakes on one side of your car, which I don't have to explain why that would be very bad.

Hey all, already done a load of restoration as getting it back to full N/A Glory before I consider ITBs. Just wanted to make a meal of this that arrived the other day, so happy! 🥰

ok, its been some time... but i want to share few photos from a civic photoshoot i made recently. This is how it currently looks like.

Amazing reply from SirPaperbag! Just to add ive done this swap on my (non abs) mb2, but also upgraded a few things. My setup is as follows and works sweet: Disc trailing arms off a mc1 aerodeck MB6 brake booster MB6 1" master cylinder Mgzs 180 282mm front calipers (interesting the caliper is the same as from a 97-03 accord, not sure on the carrier) Mgzs 180 262mm rear calipers 46210-S5A-912 40-40 prop valve Regarding the rear arb - the rear brace that SirPaperbag mentions won't fit without modification. DeLaSoul mentions it in his build thread - if I remember correctly the mounting points where the LCAs mount to the chassis are about 8mm narrower on our MBs to EKs

Small update on the whole brake prop valve situation: Apparently, EG6 prop valves could also work, as they don't have ABS and 262/242mm rotors in the front and rear, just like our M-chassis Civics. So, if that's true, you could get a brand new valve for less than $200 from Japan. Part number for these bad boys is 46210-SR3-013 And you should be fine sticking with your original brake master cylinder + booster! But if you've got 242mm discs all around instead you'd need a "1725" valve (46210-1725-XXX) off a Del Sol, not off an EE/ED/EF Civic! (Different f/r rotor sizes)

Got some from Climair installed rn, and they fit very well. They're still available brand new. Only thing I had to do is grind off a bit of the holding tab in the front (was a bit too long) but that's completely normal with these things. And you can even choose between clear, tinted, and dark, which I find quite nice.

Good shout mate, I'll se about getting this added to FAQ. And thank you, cracking info there!

A reply this detailed deserves to be in the FAQ section of this site! It really seems a more difficult job than a cam swap and a tune haha If I ever manage to stumble upon the main parts for a cheap enough price (Hondas in general were very expensive relative to other cars here in Italy so not many sales...) to justify all the work I'll definitely try. Thanks for all the info!

Great post there mate

The part about needing new trailing arms is 100% correct, as the drum brake ones lack the proper mounting points for a disc brake system. But you've got to be careful with which arms you choose, as the wrong ones could end up increasing your rear trackwidth and that's gonna end badly for your handling. As our M-chassis have borrowed a lot of suspension components from 5th gen Civics (EG), I'd recommend searching for EG5/EG6/etc. trailing arms, as they should keep everything in spec. I for one got a pair of EG5 arms to go with my non-ABS system. But that's only part of the problem. If you've somehow managed to get yourself the right trailing arms then you still have to find a matching brake proportioning valve (or prop valve) that splits the pressure correctly between front and rear. Otherwise your rear brakes might either not bite enough, or bite too much and cause the rear to kick out while braking (very dangerous). This is especially important if you've got something like an MOT or TÜV here in Germany, where your car gets an inspection every X years and they check your brake performance. M-chassis Civics also use an old style of prop valve, which makes it EVEN HARDER to find the correct ones. What you generally want to get is called a "4040" valve, which is just the model number, nothing more (some dumbasses online claimed those valves split 40/40, but where the hell would the remaining 20% go?) I also found a nifty table somewhere on an obscure forum, and I don't know where exactly I got it from, so I sadly can't attribute the original poster, but here it is: And depending on the caliper sizing, you might even have to upgrade your master cylinder, but that's getting really technical. So, in short, get the correct trailing arms, a somewhat correct prop valve and maybe upgrade your master cylinder. If you want to do it properly, it's a whole lot more work than just doing enough for it to work. Pro Tip: You can also fine-tune your front/rear balance by using more or less aggressive pads. And regarding rear ARBs, you've got a choice between either buying some used EG6 brackets, using aftermarket ones, and reinforcement braces with mounts included. I went with a used EG6 ARB, plus mounting hardware, because I wanted to try out how much difference just that dingy little thing would make (a lot). Here are a few pics of it both installed, and some pics of the used mounting hardware. You also need fitting lower control arms with mounting holes for the endlinks. And I'd recommend buying new endlinks while you're at it. And maybe a few harder rubber bushings on top. I also had to fabricate some small metal standoffs for the mounting bracket to properly fit to the rear frame (top right picture, the screw just above the yellow marking). This would be the alternative, a rear brace with mounts included: But some places also carry aftermarket versions of the OG hardware that I mentioned and shower earlier, so that's an option, as well. All in all, it's a s**t job with tons of little hang-ups, researching, browsing marketplaces and painful installation, but the handling difference is night and day.

Heya bud imho, dual rads are a terrible idea. They are both looking to dissipate heat, but when connected, if you feel the desire to move rapidly or it's a very hot day, the heat in the rad will affect the condensers ability to be effective, thus you would lose cooling ability. I guess it's like putting you home fridge in front of the radiator, if the fridge can;t shift the heat, the gasses can't re condense and the fridge loses it's ability to be effective. I think it would more be a limit to the age of the technology of the aircon, pressures used today are greater and condensers are far more efficient. I say delete the aircon, get a bigger rad and just drive faster with all the windows down! haha! I say when my MB6 VTIs still has it's full aircon :P

Thank you guys. I'll try to make a topic of the work in the car I've made so far and all the work I want to do. @SirPaperbag The fog lights are not factory ones but some cheep chinese. I found the originals , bought them but I think the front bumber is an aftermarket bumber so I have to cut the whole thing in there to fit the original factory fog lights. Lots of work has to be made generally and have no time. Nevermind whenever I find some free time I will do it. The grille is handmade, I tried to fit the H emblem from my previous EK civic, but it's too big :( Only the small H emblem of the pre-facelift fits. By the way the car was imported from Germany, as the user manual of the car is in German :D

Can confirm these are direct replacement to the existing big fogs. You might need to swap the plug over however. If I remember correctly the front seal wasn't great so I used a big o-ring between the glass and the front screw on cap piece to keep the water out

Yes definitely! Focus at the moment is building up the engine ready to go into the car. I've got most of the things sorted that need/are easier to go into the car before the engine is in place, e.g. the shifter box, shifter cables and the power steering hoses (it's a real pain to reach the bottom of the PS rack with the engine in!) ready to go now I haven't got any engine mounts sorted yet but im hoping that some genuine Civic EG hasport ones come up for sale used at some point. They're incredibly expensive new (£750!) so I can see why people are tempted by chinese knock offs you can get on ebay, but personally I won't do that. You can get an alternative from Innovative Mounts for about £400 or so, but I dont need to order yet until i'm ready. A lot of these parts, its worth biding your time and seeing what comes up for sale on marketplace, ebay etc rather than getting things new as usually the price is high because it's come from the USA generally and import duties etc are rolled into the price. I've also managed to purchase a VTI-S front lip and side skirts from a car being broken, along with some door mouldings that were in better condition than ours which are all cracked and horrible (the ones right under the window on the top of the outside of the door). They seem to not be available new, i've tried both Honda and Rover part numbers. Most of the clips got smashed during the process of prising them out (I think you're supposed to do it from the reverse side with the door card out to release them) but it seems like you can still get those new fortunately. Also got a set of used MB-specific Meister-R coil overs which seem to be in very good condition so that was a score as they're also pretty pricey new. The rear lip is elusive but I think we may end up modifying the bumper somehow anyway depending on exhaust fitment etc so it's probably just as well for the time being.

Tubs2 looking good in the sun today, even with a thick coating of pollen.

Quick test pic

Thank you for the warm welcome both I am basically following guides for an EG K-swap as the car seems to be almost identical as far as a K swap is concerned. Even the EG conversion harness (to connect the new engine loom to the existing car loom) appears to work for the MB. Spent a day on the car today and progress as follows: Bye bye D14! Some areas of surface rust in the engine bay that we'll go over with a flap wheel and spraypaint over just to stop it getting any worse but not found anything that needs any welding etc so that's good news Made a bit of a mess knocking out the leftmost engine mount bracket (required to install the EGK2 Hasport mounts). Drilled all the spot welds out but it still wasn't budging so ended up going in behind it with a hammer and chisel and it eventually came off - the chassis has suffered a few battle scars but nothing a bit of sanding and paint can't cure! I've agreed to buy an EP3 civic gearbox so now that the gearbox has been chosen the next job I think will be to get hold of a shifter from an Integra DC5 and get that mounted in the car and get the shifter cables fed through to the engine bay and the shifter mounted. If i'd gone for an FN2 or accord gearbox I would've needed an accord shifter as the pattern is reversed. And finally my first mod! A set of clear indicators, I believe they were from an accord - I had to file off a small tab on the casing to get them to fit the connector was a direct swap so that's a good result

Welcome to the club and good luck with your project! Also used to (briefly) think about a K-swap a few years ago, but I quickly changed my mind after I found out that all the extra bits and pieces you need to make it all fit and work can easily cost twice as much as the K-series engine itself. And as far as I remember you're going to need EG parts for the engine bay, suspension bits and headers. While the M-chassis does share parts with the EJ/EK platform, Integra and EG parts are much more numerous.

Progress so far Started to strip out the engine - radiator (probably leaking) and AC condenser (also probably leaking) removed: Painting the rear bumper - to cover various marks and scratches but also somewhat of an experiment to see what it looks like with rubber strips colour coded (from photos i've seen I think it will look better) I've started putting together a list of parts that i'd like to acquire (the amount of small parts you need for a K-swap is crazy. It's all bolt on but you definitely need a spreadsheet or similar to manage it!)

Hi fellas's Its been a while. Sadly I've come to a positio where I have to let her go. It's been one hell of a journey but this car has been sitting under a tarp for long enough now. I think I've done a fair amount of mods and I've learned SO MUCH over the past 5 years of owning this car. Sadly I've grown up a little, got a stock '99 accord that I use for work... Hinata ended up outside for a while, now she sits in our new workshop under a cover. Been sitting for a year almost and barely driven. It hurts to look at her so i've been trying to sell it for sometime now. This sunday someones coming over to maybe take her and drive her again. It's a shame but i've been neglecting this car / focusing on other things for quite sometime and I just can look at her anymore. It's been wild, thanks :)

More work recently completed: Over the Xmas period I decided to do a total suspension refresh on the MB4. I had wanted to do it when i built the car but time and finances were not available. I stripped all suspension off of the car, this took 3 days due to a few issues I encountered. Front end: Firstly, the passenger side front lower balljoint was original to the car, and 130k miles and 25 years had not been kind to it. I ended up having to cut it, and source another set of front lower arms due to how damaged the balljoint taper was. Polybushing all of the front components was a doddle. Whilst the steering rack was out, i discovered the inner tie rods were different to that of every other 90's honda, so unfortunately these were not replaced (I will be converting to a DC2 rack in the future). Reassembly was smooth sailing, until one of the weldnuts sheared off inside the subframe. This meant everything had to come out again (Joy!🥴) I had kept the subframe from my old MB2 (RIP P970NET , gone but never forgotten), so a quick spruce up and this went straight onto the car. Up front I now had Hardrace lower balljoints and tie rods, all bushings were now Energy suspension poly units, I fitted OEM replacement honda wheel bearings from Tegiwa, some skunk 2 upper control arms, and I serviced my Racing logic coilovers. Rear end: This was far more of a pain than I initially anticipated, disassembly was plain sailing, except for the inner LCA bolts snapping (The usual suspects!). Once these were extracted, everything was cleaned and thread-chased. The rear trailing arms were easy to replace the bushes, I opted for uprated hardrace OE style ones for a little bit more compliance. I fitted Skunk2 upper camber arms and some generic chinese toe arms. These were a nighmare to fit due to the locknuts being jammed in the toe adjustment slot, this unfortunately required some "creative" adjustment of the toe arm pocked to allow clearance. The rear LCAs proved the hardest part, due to my Eg/DC2 kit having too small bushes to fit in the outer ends, this required some overnight parts from Scotland to get the right bushes. The next challenge was the shock mount bushes, whuch were the correct fit, however far too wide to fit into my coilovers, these, again, requiring some creative adjustment with a lathe to get to the right size. Whilst the rear was apart I took the time to address a siezed slide pin on one caliper and a few minor exhaust fitment issues. End result: The car now feels brand new, and feels incredibly agile and fun to drive. Body roll and "wandering" around the road has been massively improved. The ride is a tad harsher but this doe not bother me. This was definitely worth the hassle, and didn't break the bank either, costing around £600 in parts in the end I would highly recommend doing this to your MBs if you enjoy spirited driving or B road hacking, its made my MB feel like a racecar! What's next? Next on the list for the car is an update/improvement on the current ICE setup, and some minor bodywork items, with long-term goals being the aformentioned DC2 rack and a replacement engine Unfortunately no photos from the build, however next time I get it up on a ramp I will take some!

I crashed my MB2, and the front bumper needs replacing. Where can I find a new one? I searched online and couldn't find any store that had new bumpers.

many thanks both, I had a quick look for repair panels yesterday, they do exist but not found for inner arch yet. also not sure how they compare e.g. in thickness terms with OE body shell ? suggestions on best place to buy the panels appreciated. otherwise I will just carry on googling. ours has been garaged (unheated though) so it is out of the weather, except when used - it's still the daily driver.

That looks stunning! Loving that! @dr_broon yup, something about metallic reds that I just love! Gayles new Micra is a similar colour to that red too!

Looks really nice mate 😎 @Dave 's fave colour for an MB 😁

Okay so i said id do an update some time ago and never got round to it, to cut a long story short, all the welding is now fully complete and the car now has its interior back in. but i thought id show you the work that i have done over the past year. Starting off with the Rear Drivers side sill, this side is the worst, The Passenger side was not too bad compared to this. so i started cutting away to see what the extent of it was. As you can see it is quite bad. Luckily the back part of the inner sill is nice an rust free, very solid in fact on both sides! It has only really crept up on the edges and further down to the front. I cut out the bottom bit as i am completely replacing the whole sill as it is knackered to say the least. A new section was made for the back part of the sill This section is the part where the trailing arm bolts up into, the lip was rusty, i was not happy leaving it like that so it was also repaired with 1.2mm steel not the cleanest job but strong and then filled with S50 Cavity Wax. some more reconstruction work of the rear sill because i cut away all the rust i had very little to work with to get the shape right so i had to make sure that it all lines up hence why i put a little piece in to the right of the image to give me a guide. It was also done to make sure the sill overlaps the middle section as the sill is made in 3 bits, Rear, Middle and Front, it is plug welded at the seam shown on this photo. Here is the sill panel all ready to be welded in making sure that it is also all lined up. A good photo to show the extent of the cutting that i have had to do on this side due to the rot. I thought if i have the whole panel then why not just replace the whole section, its easier, quicker and makes for a neater repair. More Cutting showing the extent of the rust around the wheel arch area. Not terrible but also not good. Some Crappy looking plug welds later and its finally in. I should really have removed more of the factory coating but nevermind... The main thing is is that the welds are strong and have plenty of penetration on the backside, they can be grinded down later. The wheel arch more opened up showing the extent of how much ive had to cut out. With even more to come! Because you cant get the inners for these ive had to make it myself, it was a pain but we got there in the end. I cut it down and got it welded in, Doesn't look pretty yet but will do later on down the line once finished. Next was to sort out this lip behind the bumper as rust had got there too! Lots more cutting atleast the rust wont come back, Right? A new boot floor lip made for the outer skin to weld onto. Another little patch repaired Fabricated the lower section of the inner arch where it comes down and meets the bit behind the bumper Here is the Inner Arch All welded up. Im pretty chuffed with that to say im a novice at this sort of stuff and it being my first car to restore. Heres it with the bumper on. A photo of all the rot ive had to cut out! Some more fabrication work, A new jacking point! Testing fitment of the Genuine wheel arch, The other one was used for backup in case i messed up. Inner arch all finished. Some more little reinforcers done for the Rear sill. Getting the Alignment right for the rear quarter panel, i butt welded rather than joggled. All tacked in place. all welded, put the bumper on to test fitment too. By no means perfect but for a first try at a wheel arch its not terrible, a few pin holes which were filled later. Lower section of the sill with the new jacking point welded. Some filler work to be required i think Atleast the panel gaps are good I will do this post in 2 sections, the next being the front sill and jacking point just to make sure it uploads with all the images etc, Overall im happy with the result, i think i could have made the wheel arch tidier but for a first time its not horrendous.

I started out with the heko ones, but then got a set of the Climair ones, which are a bit better.

Cheers dude! Checked for vac leaks already and none have came up, used soapy water, as well as the old brake cleaner technique Definitely reckon it’s throttle body related, will dive into it this weekend

Hey all! 3 years SORN... 😢 Got some cash, grabbing some MeisterR, getting the speedlines refurbed and power coated in championship white and... AD08RS... is what I'm going for... right? My beloved VTIs only goes out in summer on dry days, gets jacked, alloys off, battery out, garaged for the rest of the year. So I want great tyres that get love in use and wrapped up out of use. Anyone got any insights? I feel Yoko Advan AD08RS are legit tops, heritage dispite the drop in performance from the AD08 days, but lacking Toyo R888, anyone know of better and why? Any suggestions or fanboy throwins welcome ❤️

Thanks @Dave, anyone seen the newish series by Roverjoe on youtube? Damn, the initial rust on his arches and sills filled me with proper dread but he, for an armature, did very well! Still so crazy the inter swappable parts from the rover 45/400/mg zs.

Hey Bro, Same with the one I wanted, common area. Poked and made it all worse haha, was the same on the other side, but the stability was still there, so a couple of small welds and used Isopon skin, high build primer, done. Got the other areas the side trim attaches to (in pics) back to bare metal, Jenolited everywhere, painted. Annoying at the time I painted gloss black to get it protected as nh605p was out of my dead budget! So check the side trim as it will have work for you :P You one looks better than mine, still be prepared as Kink says, that rust is coming from the inside out, you need to get at the source. If you love it and really want it, get it and sort it.

A weekend wrestling full rusted bolts... the ache of getting off the LCA's... horribly rusted and pitted 😔 Going to need some serious effort, any advise? Going to grind, use some high build primer and silver enamel paint, we will see... Thanks to Broon, getting the full strongflex poly bushes, thanks for the link bro.

Thanks for this man, appreciate the time to break it down. They do look sweet (AD08RS), It's like you said, the stiff walls give great feedback and give that feel of confidence I'm after. My VTIs is my beloved thing, only goes out of the hottest dry days, this year... 0 days out haha. So having the best dry performance is important, did I mention they also look cool? :P

Hello to everyone. my name is George and I come from Greece. Happy to be in here, looking forward to find some useful infos. I hope forum is still alive I can understand that M's are very old and rare nowadays. Special thanks to Dave for approving my registration! After 20 years of owning an 99 EK Civic 1.6 Vti, I had an accident, an unlucky event I would say and decided to buy something different. So I bought a CIvic MA9 1.5. I always said that these Civics are unique and different from others! So I'm an old newbie we can say! My new Civic is not in good condition, until now many problems in the interior, some on the engine bay and on the chassis...but I will try to do my best to maintain the car. Here are some photos Thanks for the hospitality!

Glad he's enjoying it. Really shouldnt have sold it tbh. Moment of madness haha.

Not mine it's one rich Ellis bought to repair and sell. I sold mine to his brother tho. He blew it up so I sold him a spare engine I had also lol.

Wanted to give a small update on that particular issue. If albeit a late one. Just in case someone else reads through this thread at some point and encounters the same issue with any other kind of short shifter. As it turned out, the vibrations came from the uniball joint of the shifter itself, just as I suspected. By design, uniball joints always have a little bit of play in them and that created the rattle noise. But the harder bushings definitely were a major factor here, as well. I dribbled a bit of chain/machine oil into the base and after two or three applications the rattling completely stopped! :D You know, the kind that's very thin and oily at the start but quickly gets more sticky and viscous as it reacts with the air? That stuff also makes great chain lube for motorcycles, btw. ;)

You've basically got yourself a unicorn right there. Pre-facelift MA Metallic grey color Factory fog lights Factory spoiler without a third brake light in the rear window And that badgeless grille looks pretty sweet! Had a pretty similar idea a while ago, just didn't get around actually doing it yet... Welcome to the club! :D