Zuissi

IAB's can be run by stealing the control voltage from the VTEC solenoid. Worked fine with my past Civic until replaced IM with Skunk2 Pro series.

Engine/Drivetrain: -Fidanza 3,4kg flywheel (already bougth) -DONE- -Exedy Stage 1 clutch (already bougth) -DONE- -Y21 transmission swap (with new synchros) but 4.2 lsd remains -DONE- -New clutch slave cylinder (already bougth) -DONE- -Surge tank -CANCELED- Brakes: -New grooved discs -DONE- -Braided Goodridge brakelines -DONE- -EBC Redstuff pads -I STILL HAVE PADS FROM LAST YEAR- -Caliper paint DON'T KNOW.. -Brake shield removal DON'T KNOW.. -Brake master cylinder stopper -DONE- Suspension: -MG Zs rear arb with new poly bushes (already bougth) -DONE- -Adjustable camber arms (already bougth) -DONE- -Hardrace bushes -NEXT YEAR- -Rear upper strut bar (c-pillar) -DON'T KNOW- -Stiffer front strut bar (oem removal) -DON'T KNOW- EDIT: -Bought D2 Street suspension and installed Wheels: on track: ITR DC2 96 spec wheels (just repainted NH-0) with Toyo R1R 195/55/15 semislicks -DONE- on street: Barzetta player bronze with Toyo T1R 205/45/15 -ALREADY-

I bet those wil look awesome!

Propably affects to the top end in the dyno curve. Short runners and big plenum takes the torque from the bottom and transfers it to the top. S2 pro series makes torque to the bottom and middle range.

Which is the best way to strech arches rear and front? Any reasonable tips?

Moar top end power!

Very hot hatch project! Keep going!

Engine/Drivetrain: -Fidanza 3,4kg flywheel (already bougth) -Exedy Stage 1 clutch (already bougth) -Y21 transmission swap (with new synchros) but 4.2 lsd remains -New clutch slave cylinder (already bougth) -Surge tank Brakes: -New grooved discs -Braided Goodridge brakelines -EBC Redstuff pads -Caliper paint -Brake shield removal -Brake master cylinder stopper Suspension: -MG Zs rear arb with new poly bushes (already bougth) -Adjustable camber arms (already bougth) -Hardrace bushes -Rear upper strut bar (c-pillar) -Stiffer front strut bar (oem removal) Wheels: on track: ITR DC2 96 spec wheels (just repainted NH-0) with Toyo R1R 195/55/15 semislicks on street: Barzetta player bronze with Toyo T1R 205/45/15 I'm currently aiming to the Finnish Time Attack series, so few of those things are mandatory to upgrade. Those were the major subjects and maybe I forgot something. Can't wait until tracks open!

Nice to have more Finnish M-owners here!

I'm going to replace some bushes soon and I'd like to hear your opinion. Does the kit meant to DC2 fit straight to MB6? I know at least the most of suspension parts will fit but I need precise information. For example: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerflex-Full-Bush-Kit-Honda-Integra-DC2-Type-R-CRX-/260753146548?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Plat_Gen%3ADC2&hash=item3cb61942b4 Does this kit fit to MB6?

Love the two colour paint (skirts and body)

Love the two colour paint (skirts and body)

..and of course the old flywheel and clutch will be thrown away and be replaced by lighter flywheel and stage 1 clutch.

I'm going to change a Y21 gearbox and put current 4.2 lsd final gear in it. I'll get good 2-3 gears and long 5 gear. 5 will be good for motorway driving and the revs will be about 500rpm lower than with s9b.

Lovely photo! Very Nice!

Thanks mate!

Can someone tell me please, that does MA civic's fenders fit to MB6? they do look the same, but I need to know! Had an accident with my MB6 on monday so I need a fender.

Thanks very much! Maybe I'll start with removing the front splash guards.

Has anyone made brake cooling ducts for the front brakes in Mb6? I think they may be useful on track days and help fading..

A little bit off topic but will dc2 REAR upper strut brace fit in MB6? Which civics share same parts in suspension (EK? EG?)

I suggest that ALWAYS remap after you change any parts (intake manifold, exhaust, etc..) get a p30, p28 or p72 ecu. I'm currently using p28

I'll post the dyno results asap on spring! vtec+iabs at the same time feels like "normal" vtec engine, but my hobby is track driving with toyo r888:s so mid-range torque is more important than high top end torque at the point exiting slow curves. The car is more comfortable to drive now because the shift point is in 8300rpm and revs drop in gear change to just under 6000rpm with s9b gearbox! Vtec+iab point is set to 5500 rpm (throttle >30%) so in my MB6 there is a lot of torque after upshift.

i was looking at these at the weekend on ebay, i was sceptical i have a hondas build guid from USA and it says these are really for low compression high power 800bhp+ drag racing engines not street racing engines i think ITR cams and Vavles would be best or skunk ones thats what im looking at not Brian Cowers. my advice to you my firend and anyone else wanting to tune engines is get the Honda Builders Guide its my bible, it also explains alot about of the Bu11s**te about ECU chipping and what to expect some people think its a magic switch but utlimatelty its the internals that make a difference. Are you btw talking about BC0011 or BC0012?? 11 is for forced induction setups and 12 for NA engines "Normally Aspirated Specification Hot street/strip or road race spec. Use with CAI, H, E, ECU, A/F mods. Excellent street manners and idle quality. Requires kit BC0010 or BC0010S."

Yep, the internals are big key in tuning but what it comes to ecu tuning (I think this is off-topic but..): When I bought my current MB6, it had modified oem intake before oem intake mani and supersprint 4-2-1 exhaust+oem cat+ supersprint cat-back. The BIG problem which I had a half year ago was a lack of power between 4900-5600rpm And it was solved by buying one P28 ecu with eeprom. AFR was almost 20:1 in full throttle with stock crappy p9k ecu!! I haven't dynoed her again after ecu adjustments but it feels very different now. 80-120km/h acceleration was 1,8 secs better after ecu change. Vtec comes same time than iabs because I wired electrics from vtec solenoid to iabs solenoid.. What I'm trying to say is it's useless to put any intake mods or exhaust mods etc. without programmable ecu.. When the winter turns to spring in Finland and I get summertires on I'll go to the dyno immediately! But will b18c4 have so big lack of power until 6000rpm with stock internals alhough ecu is reprogrammed after camshafts are replaced??

I have already P28 ecu with new map. One friend of mine does re-mappings with crome, ectune and neptune. In my b18c4 is 4-2-1 exhaust mani + catback replaced and will be decat also. Intake has akr-performace cai.. I have considered also replacing the oem intake manifold of B18C4. But thank you for advice! 1"£££$££"!