m0l0t0v

Hi Guys, Car started making this noise recently and I'm pretty sure it's not normal. It's far more noticeable in first gear then any other gear. If I keep the revs below a certain point then it sounds normal the entire way but where's the fun in that? I'd only bother with the first 40/50 seconds or so... Also, pretty sure that sometimes there's more/less noise from the gearbox/clutch. I'll try and get a video of that soon...

Yeah I've got some Skunk2s... Damn Paypal with their 0% finance over 150 for 4 months... Could not find any cyberspeeds ones? It always just goes to the Meister R website but there's nothing about cyberspeeds there Could find lots of stuff about them, but never to buy them

So rear is 240?

HI, Recently got some MG ZS shocks. However, the bolt holding one of the rear shocks is seized on and the bolt is now rounded. Thought the easiest way would be to just replace the LCAs completely. Either by getting a second hand one or buying new ones entirely... It's an MB3. Which LCAs do I go for, where do I buy? AND if I was to upgrade to an MB6 later one, are they also the same fit? And where do I source new bolts?

So I noticed when I was going to replace my rear brake pads that the shim that sit son the caliper, which keeps the pads in place is missing on both sides. Ended with uneven wear on one of the pads and would rather not have that one the new pads. I've found these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231405586550?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l5999&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI231405586550.N36.S1 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231405586541?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l5999&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI231405586541.N36.S1.R1.TR20 But I'm unsure if they fit or not? I would've thought the MB2 ones would've fitted but it states it's only for 260mm discs... Can't remember if I have 240 or 260! So if they're not the correct ones, where could I get them form? Bar breakers, etc

Yeah realised I got confused between the haynes manual and the videos I watched about replacing them... whoops. All good now, Ta

Hey guys, I need to definitely replace the lower ball joint on the drivers side as it's FUBAR. Also replacing passenger side cause why not. Now, on the Haynes manual it says to remove the lower control arm and to then take it to a honda garage to get them to replace the ball joint as you need special tools. I asked my local garage (not honda) to see if he could do it, he said he wouldn't. Asked if it had a clip and I have no idea. Said something about he's not happy about pressing it in. Said he'd take it out, but not in. Far as I'm aware, that's the easy bit... Anyways, from what I remember is that the balljoint was actually on the hub and not on the control arm... I know how to get access to it and have watched a couple of videos on replacing a ball joint but it does require an expensive tool. Any pointers?

So currently stuck because of this pin. It was pushed in from the bottom so having to hammer it from the top... Which is extremely annoying. Anyone got any tips on how to best remove this little w****r?

Hel/goodridge. No real difference. But everyone prefers Hel

Interesting... on my owners manual and Haynes manual it shows a jacking point on the front of the car And I have used it to no ill effect...

Hi guys, Followed the haynes manual of removing the air box, air duct, etc and then onto the starter motor. Got everything off bar the lower bolt. Which is out most of the frigging way! Unfortunately it seems the head has rounded off slightly and my socket isn't grabbing it properly anymore. Annoyingly I have some good wall sockets which I left at home! Currently working on the car at my mums. I've done the obvious soaking in penetrating fluid, etc. But I can't seem to get purchase anymore. It's annoying as f*** because I can't even see the condition of it to see how bad it really is! Haven't even started on the transmission/gearbox Any tips? Other than put everything back together, go home and use those sockets?

Did you do the corners in order? I had the same thing, then re-bled in the proper order and no more spongyness. Though I did bleed them initially in the proper order, just not well enough it seems!

Hello. First things first, my front windscreen has a great big crack on the left hand side. starts at the edge of where the tax disc would normally be and then goes up to about halfway up the windscreen. And with lots of little scratches here and there actually getting the whole lot replaced would be a nice thing. Not sure if it can be fixed anyways... And the rear windscreen... My car came with the ugly windscreen brake light (black box thing) which I want to remove, especially since it also came with the little spoiler with brake light. Unfortunately, two big holes were made/drilled to fit the brake box thing so can't fully remove it. I've taken it off but it's left two big black circle things which are fugly. So... How much would I be looking at to replace both windscreens, easy enough to do yourself or let the pro's do it? Or would I be better off trying to find a boot+windscreen for my civic in the correct colour? And do you think the crack could actually be replaced, but then what about all those scratches everywhere which actually cause quite a bit of glare in sunlight/heavy rain... Pirates black mb3...

Switch does nothing. Didn't check the boot light but I'm pretty sure that one does work.

Cheers guys. Anything else to look at/check while doing the clutch?

So my clutch has started slipping. Still driveable but certainly noticeable if I've just gone up a hill or gone a bit spirited/hard on the clutch. Now, I've downloaded the manual and have a Haynes guide. I'm pretty handy, having done all the work on motorbikes (clutch, etc) and have a certain amount of tools. My only question is how involved is it? Do I need to take the whole engine out, any special tools (and how much they cost), what clutch do I go for, anything else worth checking/doing while I do the clutch, etc. Basically want to know anything there is know. It's a '98 mb3 with over 130k on the clock. It's higher, I just never pay attention to how much higher. I know it's possible to buy a new mb3 but there's the hassle of insurance and then cancelling and then taking out a new policy with the new car. And tbh. I'm kinda using this mb3 as a guinea pig for when I hopefully get an mb6 later on and I've perfected everything I want to do. Won't mind having the car in bits for 3 days if need be. And would I need help from someone else or doable as one man army?

So my interior light stopped working quite awhile back. I've checked the fuse. Changed it with a spare anyways but still no. It randomly stopped working one day. I've seen things mention about it being because of a new headunit but it happened while I still had the old headunit. Bulbs are also fine. Rear boot works fine from memory. Everything else works fine. What could it be?

Hi guys, New pads and discs fitted to the rears which is nice, but pretty certain the rear right is seized. Pretty much no wear on the disc and it's been over a week! also, the handbrake cable adjustment bit is super wonky. So was looking at overhauling the calipers and cable in a oner. Looking at parts that fit, am I right in thinking these calipers will fit? There's the bonus of getting £15 back as well. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAIR-OF-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPERS-To-Fit-ROVER-COUPE-45-200-400-240mm-Disc-/371263950968?hash=item56710e5078:g:iIYAAOSwWTRWxVtK it's an MB3 240mm disc. As for handbrake cables, are they always sold left and right separately, rather than just the one cable? And why would one side be more expensive than the other? Only talking a couple of quid here, but surely there's no difference?

I forgot to take the picture! Still got the bit sin my boot so I'll put it up tomorrow. And yeah I thought it was weird. And figured out that the screw heads were drilled off. As that's what I had to do on the other side... Oh well, new discs and pads in. I'll check them at the end of the week and see if there is any abnormal wear.

Hello, So I got the dreaded grinding noise of metal to metal from my rear left wheel and knew instantly that the pads were way past their service life. Went to inspect the damage, but on first inspection, disc looked fine and there was still organic material on the outer pad. When I took the inner pad out however... it's worn so unevenly! And the metal warning thing had snapped off which is why I never heard it! The pad itself is worn at an angle with the "top" of the pad being worn to the metal while the bottom still has about 5/6mm of compound left. Obviously the inner and upper part of the disc is b****red so that means new discs as well... However, I noticed that the disc itself is move-able, surely it should be bolted on properly and wouldn't this cause the issue? Using my google-fu it came on another civic forum saying you don't need the retaining bolts/screws as once you bolt on the wheel the disc sits flush on the hub and theoretically shouldn't move(other than with the wheel obviously). If this is true, then why would only one pad be worn this way? Definitely getting new pads and discs, but where would I buy the retaining screws/bolts from? I can see them on ebay, but would like to get it sorted tomorrow... I'll put up pictures of the pads and disc tomorrow.

Hi Guys, Got an mb3 and the fob isn't working. When the car was first given to me the fob worked, but I had to press hard to unlock. Lock worked fine. At some point (Can't remember when) it stopped working altogether. Thought it may have been the batteries so I bought new ones. Doesn't work. The light doesn't go on, so not a reprogramming issue. Not too long ago I dropped/got the fob a bit wet to some degree and it started working again, but only on locking the car, not unlocking. Is there any known faults like this? Would like to get it fixed, if not I'll get the HAWK locking system. I'll put up pictures of the fob in a bit.