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Hey guys, long time I know but as soon I get rid of this financed Mercedes I’ll be back on the deck and back here as a regular!

 

in the mean time I’m thinking about my options, I thought I’d post in here so any responses or information that’s given will be there for anyone else scrolling through the engine section.

 

i want to get some gains going on in the bay... so I just wondered if someone could spend a few minutes to explain a bit about the options on all of the following....

 

cams, throttle bodies, manifolds, ecu’s and anything else sort of related which can acquire improved performance.

 

willing to spend a bit of dough but not after a 2k build otherwise I may as well boost it lol... way out of my budget!!

 

look forward to replies 

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Turbo is the way to go for serious power gains. It's probably better if you tell us what you want. There are multiple ways to gain power, but also at different prices.

 

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The setup I described in your other post is a sensible budget setup. You won't achieve a huge amount more n/a unless you look at going high comp and/or itbs. Which is gonna cost a packet. In which case boost is better value imo.

If your on a budget and want a little more. I'd look for a skunk intake manifold. Some type r or skunk cams. Dual valve springs will be a good idea can safely raise the rev limiter a bit. A larger throttle and a decent exhaust setup. And a p28 to tune on.

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Skunk2 intake mani £300

Skunk2 cams around £400 

Skunk2 springs n retainers £400

Decent exhaust £200-£300

Ecu £150 

Proper map £300

Be aswell to boost it 

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16 hours ago, koen_valk said:

Turbo is the way to go for serious power gains. It's probably better if you tell us what you want. There are multiple ways to gain power, but also at different prices.

 

Yeah from what I’ve researched it stands out that if you want big power then boost is the only way.... but I’m not after mega power, in all honesty I’m just looking for things to tinker with, and if I can scrape a few hp at the same time then I may as well. I desperately don’t want to run the risk of killing the engine so although boost is so damn tempting, I would rather stay n/a.

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10 hours ago, KiNK43 said:

The setup I described in your other post is a sensible budget setup. You won't achieve a huge amount more n/a unless you look at going high comp and/or itbs. Which is gonna cost a packet. In which case boost is better value imo.

If your on a budget and want a little more. I'd look for a skunk intake manifold. Some type r or skunk cams. Dual valve springs will be a good idea can safely raise the rev limiter a bit. A larger throttle and a decent exhaust setup. And a p28 to tune on.

That sounds exactly the way I want to go, like you already explained, I just wanted to put it out there for a bit of additional info... for example what the differences are between the different grades of Skunk2 intake mani that fit the b18c4? As there are a few to choose from... obviously more expensive I assume better performance increase but that’s not always the case with some things.

 

but for manifolds it’s obvious that the better air flow provided is where the improvement is, but I lose IABS???

 

with skunk2 cams what exactly is different to them from stock cams that provides the gain? And why the need to upgrade valve springs?

 

exhaust I already have a decent power flow system from manifold back but I am after an appropriate exhaust manifold to upgrade to, any ideas??

 

i got a bit of ecu info from Matt at h-tune a couple days ago so I think I’m ok with understanding that aspect...

 

i just like to know exactly why I’m upgrading certain parts... as opposed to when I’m asked, why have you put that on, saying, “I don’t know, that’s what the guys on the forum told me to do” haha!!

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6 hours ago, dogg1210 said:

Skunk2 intake mani £300

Skunk2 cams around £400 

Skunk2 springs n retainers £400

Decent exhaust £200-£300

Ecu £150 

Proper map £300

Be aswell to boost it 

It’s a fair point but if I were to boost.. wouldn’t I want to be doing all of the above as well??

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Just a normal skunk manifold. Think they call it a pro or something.

Itr rep basically.

And dual valve springs will help prevent valve float at high rpm. So can safely push towards 9k redline.

C4 already has them on intake but not exhaust valves.

Doesn't have to cost alot. Keep eyes peeled on Facebook etc get some good condition 2nd hand parts.

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I got a blox intake mani when I had mine had a full system exhaust, itr throttle body but had to get a shorter throttle cable as it runs the other way I think lol had ecu on it too and it went well. 

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I'm nearing the end of an NA build with mine and its all been done to a budget (mostly).

 

  • Blox inlet manifold (these are close enough to being the same as the Skunk2 inlets for a fraction of the price, I got mine second hand for £150)
  • DC2 integra cams and valve springs, it might take a bit of digging but you can get a set of cams for £200 and I think the springs were an extra 50.
  • On top of this I got an engine rebuild kit which came with YCP B16B pistons. the kit was approximatly £500 but I had to pay a fair chunk in import tax and shipping as it came from the states. it also included a full set of king bearings and seals for the whole engine.
  • An ebay special 4-2-1 stainless manifold with a 2.5 inch collector to go with my exisitng 2.5 inch mongoose exhaust. the manifold was about £160, The exhaust was on the car when I got it.

The car is going on the dyno in the next week or two when I get everything buttoned up finally and honestly none of us have any clue what kind of power its going to make. all we know is the compression ratio is higher than any of the factory engines, with VERY approximate napkin maths it should be nearly 13:1.

 

you can pick and choose how far you want to go with yours but obviously some of the mods require some of the others to work, and once you get past a certain point you really do need to Map it otherwise it will never be right.

 

 

Also bear in mind that if you do the inlet manifold it means deleting the IAB's which caused me some headaches in the beginning.

 

I'll be doing a full update in my build thread once I get time to sort through all the photographs.

 

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One good thing I added to mine was a s4c box made a difference.  So a s80 box with lsd  and 4.7fd I think that's right lol would make a good difference 

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Yep +1 for gearbox with a 4.7fd :D

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Thanks for all the info guys... some in depth stuf for me to get thinking about, for the price difference am thinking maybe blox components may suite my needs better, as if they’re not too far off the skunk stuff I’m not to fussed about that and will be quite a saving in comparison.

 

thanks for the link @Gel have messaged the seller :-D

 

ah gearbox’s that’s another story completely haha!!! So the S4c box is basically a S80 box that’s been adjusted for better ratios? That’s what I gather from your post @dogg1210 ?? How exactly with the S4c box change my gear change lengths... so at the moment on the motorway I’m cruising at 70mph and engine is revving it’s nuts off!! Does it give me a longer 5th??

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S4c I had didn't have an lsd but think you can get ones that do . I can't really remember how it was in 5th bud but it has a 4.4 fd and is that much difference with ratios compared to the s80 

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