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Hi all, the lower inner part of rear wheel arch on my Aerodeck VTi has some rust, which I have been aware of for a while but, on further investigation tonight, the near side has gone, i.e. it gives when you push it, the offside feels more solid. need to cut out to see how big the hole is, doubtless it will be gone on the sill section too. similar to this link (Adzvtis pics) just wondered if MB6/ MC2 are same in this area, and if repair panels are available (e.g. Rover 400 etc) , if rust is localised enough (yet to be determined) I guess patches can be fabricated and welded in. Also are there any how to guides, Roverjoe was doing a vid on his MB6 resto I believe. I had the sill front section and jacking points professionally done several years ago but the work cost a bomb then and so I think will have to tackle the rear section myself. many thanks

I crashed my MB2, and the front bumper needs replacing. Where can I find a new one? I searched online and couldn't find any store that had new bumpers.

Hi guys, my car's abs light is always on, I've tried to check the codes and the light doesn't blink. I took the manual and did the procedures it says and I got to the part where I have to make a jumper between pin 1 and the ground but I don't know where that plug is if anyone knows please tell me something thanks

As Simon says, they were never available new from anywhere else's other than Honda. You can still order them from Honda (I was going to get a new one for my deck after the encounter with the deer a few months ago) but they can't give a delivery date to the dealership. Said they are in Belgium (possibly) but could be a matter of weeks or possibly months. Price has also gone up dramatically, I paid £250 for my new one for my mb6 from Honda. Now they are £550! Best bet is getting one from a breaker.

The good news is all the Civic M's MB/MB/MC are the same body parts in that area so repair panels for the Rover 45/400/MGZS fit. @Roverjoe in the forum has restored his in this area and has videos on Youtube. The Civic Ms seemed to have outlasted the 3 door civics rust wise, especially in the rear arches/sills, so think they've done well to only be needing this done now. I'm luck that my deck still is solid in the sills/arches etc but she's garaged all the time since 2013.

Try our downloadable guide mate, it has photos of where the plug is located etc.

Yes mate, deffo ones that can be retro fitted so look OEM. Two things honda left out in the Civic Ms....cupholders and storage! Lol

oh cool! I bought one of those vent cup holders just to see if they hold alright or not but its great to hear there are sort of real alternatives

Unfortunately there'll be no new ones available, your best bet is finding a one that's being broken either on ebay or on Facebook.

I just bought handbrake cables for the MB6/MC2 models. They have rear discs and in the case of the MB6 are the exact same chassis as mine. Haven't attempted the actual swap yet, but I've got all the neccessary parts lying around already and am pretty sure that the MB6 cables are gonna work. And don't forget that you'll need different brake lines, as well! (Just the flexible part, though)

You are technically right about not needing the whole trailing arms, but good luck with both finding the spindles by themselves in usable condition and taking the old ones off. Finding parts like that is getting progressively hard as our cars start to turn into oldtimers, and most of these super specific upgrade parts have already been grabbed about a decade ago. We're kinda late to the party in that regard. The spindles are also secured to the trailing arms with extremely strong threadlocker, which oftentimes are pretty old and corroded on top, which makes removing them near impossible without drilling them out. Stripped a bolt attempting to remove the disc brake ones, even with applying heat and using rust remover beforehand. No chance. So, yes - you technically don't need them, but realistically you will. Except if you're fine with drilling all of the bolts out and dealing with that headache. And the part about bleeding the brakes is also generally correct. Most cars have their brake systems set up like that so you can still come to a stop if a brake line fails. Otherwise if you combine FR with RR / FL with RL you will only have working brakes on one side of your car, which I don't have to explain why that would be very bad.

Hi, are you sure you need new trailing arms? Upon a short google search, I stumbled upon this. " You do NOT need the entire trailing arm; ALL 88-00 civics and 90-01 Integras take the same shaped trailing arm. You need only the spindle, which is attached by a 24mm nut, and four T50 torx bolts. Please note that most swap the entire trailing arm because those torx bolts are in there VERY firmly. I have banged the hell out of a hammer and impact and still had them stay. I advise air tools, because even with all my weight and brute force, they may not come out. Brake lines may be stubborn if your car is older and rusty. The brake hard lines can strip easily if you do not use the proper wrench. A brake line wrench is what you need, which is a 10mm box end wrench with a slot cut out so that you can slide it over the hardline. You can use this on the bleeder screw too if you put the bleeder hose over the bleeder valve first so that brake fluid doesn't spill. On an EK chassis civic, the bleeding sequence is right rear, then left front, then left rear, then front right. Don't go in a circle, the EK chassis uses a crossed brake system, so go by this sequence to avoid any cross contamination of air into the lines, otherwise you may be bleeding all day. " Rear disc conversion, keeping the drum trailing arm | Honda D Series Forum Cheers!