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Thank you mate ! I'll give a try today if it doesn't rain.

I think I tried that but will do it again tomorrow. But the major problem seems to be that the plastic is hitting the bolt. I don't think I can stretch it to go around the bolt and bracket. Also can you make a close up photo of your fog just to see how it is supposed to look. I couldn't find a close up photo anywhere on the net..

Yes ride height should be the same on front and rear. Look at the first photo. As for arbs your best bet is MG ZS 180 20mm rear arb and MB6 26mm front arb.

They are not the same but they have left and right markings, so this should not be the problem.

Wow this seller is awesome. He had fog surrounds in stock and bought them for 8 pounds brand new. But I need some help from all big fog owner's. I fitted the brackets and fogs. I don't think I can get something wrong there. But I have a problem putting in the surrounds. Inner side seems ok (sorry for the very dirty car): But I cannot put the outer side. The bracket comes in the way and I can't put the surround in. It sits like this: I have fitting instructions and still can't do it right.. Boy I feel dumb And let me try that new function: @knight @Honda Paul @Roj

It really depends on the springs stiffness. "Overdamped" suspension is not a good thing. Yes I would say you'll be very happy with it. It doesn't matter which year is the MG ZS 120 there is no difference. But keep in mind the biggest improvement in handling comes from anit roll bars. M's major handling problem is body roll. And MB4 doesn't have rear arb so getting one should have a top priority.

I have seen this on the forum in some posts. That's why I started this thread. This statement (bolded one) is NOT true. ZS120 has lowered and stiffer suspension made by Eibach the same way as ZS180. It only has different front springs and shocks stiffness. It's a pitty my friend didn't take before pictures. But stock suspension is nothing like ZS120. It had a huge arch gap. Rear springs were so weak that with 4 people and LPG (which he has in the boot) the car would nearly scrape. Now with the same condition it moves one finger down. Here's a random pic of a stock MA suspension. You can clearly see that ZS120 is lower. I'm speaking from experience here. ZS180 front springs are too stiff for MB1/2/3/4/ and MA8/9. So for those M's the proper suspension upgrade is ZS120 springs and shocks and ZS180 rear arb + MB6 front arb. Of course you can do like me - ZS180 complete suspension and ZS120 front springs. But this is stupid. It costs more money that way and shocks are always matched to springs so we better leave it that way. I had a chance (at last) to drive my friend's car (he drove mine). Quick comparison of our setups (differences are bolded): MB124mm front arb (stock)16mm rear arb (stock)ZS120 front and rear shocks and springs195/50/15 tiresLPG in the boot MB326mm front arb (MB6)20mm rear arb (ZS180)ZS120 front springs with ZS180 front shocksZS180 rear springs and shocks (SAME as ZS120)195/50/15 tires I must say comparing it to mine I don't like it that much. At 56mph with agressive left-right-left turning it has some woble. Mine's almost zero. Also steering feels more loose and not as direct as mine. But he hasn't changed his trail arm bushes and we have different arbs. I didn't expect it to be the same. I have to say the more I drive other cars the more I love my suspension

Yes, I saw that. This will be a last resort if I can't find another solution. Or maybe I'll try to fabricate something, maybe enlarge the stock surrounds.

I just have to share my joy with you guys. Yesterday I was browsing our local online trading website (something like ebay) and I couldn't believe my eyes. I found a Honda 08V31-S1E-600 KIT brand new unopened ! And the price was 49 pounds I bought it right away. The KIT comes with everything needed to wire the fogs: Harness, relays, brackets, bolts and etc.. Even brand new button. Also it has a nice booklet with very detailed fitting and using instructions. (If you want I can upload photos of the whole book) Here's some photos: There's only one bad part though. The kit doesn't include the fog surrounds. Nice thinking Honda... They have a different part number: 08V31-S1E-600-F. Now I have to look for two of those before I can fit the fogs. If you find fog surrounds somewhere please let me know. On ebay there is currently only one for sale. At least left and right are the same.

I hope to drive it Monday. I'm in my village for a couple of days. Well they should be. Rear suspension has the same part numbers for both shocks and springs. Front has different part numbers because of different engine weight for ZS 120 and 180. We just need correct spring and shock ratio. On my car I can definitely say ZS120 is the correct one. I have zs180 shocks thought that's why I want to test drive the MB1 but I doubt they'll be difference. 135mph+ I can't even get to that speed

More like ZS 120 is for all M's. And yes MB1 has sohc d16y2 engine. ZS 120 has a dual cam 1.6 and 1.8 motors. I'm sure they weight more than Honda SOHC motors. Also according to the manual a 1.8 VTI has only 35kg more at the front comparing it to 1.6 ES. I can't find the info for MB1, but my point is B18 are not that heavy especially comparing them to the 2.5 v6 that ZS 180 has.

A friend of mine has Civic MB1. When he bought the car it already had rear arb. Apparently MB1s have oem rear arbs, which have the same droplinks and design like mg zs but the arb is smaller, looks like ~16mm. Front arb seems beefier, it's not 26mm but it's not 18mm either, something in between. The car had 195/65/15 tires He didn't like the suspension. Following my advice he bought MG ZS 120 suspension (springs & shocks) and Bridgestone Adrenalin RE002 195/50/15 tires. Now he's very happy with the handling. The car sits well, equally dropped on the front and rear. So like I suspected ZS 120 suspension is perfect for our M's. I will have to drive his car soon and compare it to mine for a final conclusion.

Such sad news R.I.P Nick

At Honda Poland forum they have ~14 different manuals. I had a look through them and found this useful thing. It was an interesting read Excuse me if it was posted.

You have a D15B JDM block with 137mm rods, right ? If yes, It should be the opposite - higher compression. D15B and D16 use the same 137mm rods but D15B has 27.X mm compression height pistons (some say it's 27.4, others 27.75) and D16Y8 has 29.3 comression height pistons. I think you can use D17 pistons if they are cheaper. They have 27mm compression height pistons which should result in slightly less static compression. If you have a normal D15 block with 134mm rods than D16 pistons won't even fit the rods because it uses different sized rod journals.

They are not the same, because D15 block has a shorter deck height than D16. Use the correct ones.

I've researched quite a bit about MG ZS rack. It deffinitely is faster. You can see here that it has around 2.5 lock to lock - http://www.zscentral.com/phpbb/zs-high-ratio-steering-rack-and-other-r400-zs-bits-t4430.html#p77351 MB6 has 3.28 lock to lock. So it will be noticable. Now will it fit.. First I asked a very popular car breaker here in Bulgaria that deals only with rover, mg and uk civic's. He said the rack will 99% fit in our car. Also here's another confirmation that it fits and it appears someone has already done this - http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=484647 (don't mind my dumb posts in the thread )

About power: If you have the budget and you want big gains - turbo is the way to go. (And IMHO the only way on this motor for decent power) If you want to stay NA - hybrid gearbox and new clutch are the best thing you can do, believe me I tried it all. Just like MFactory says - "THE Replacement for Displacement!"

4325mm

Your D16W4 gearbox already has 4.437 final drive. The only way to make it better is by installing 3rd and 4th gear from D16Z5 / D16A9 and 1.900 second gear (many options here). Or the not so good option - to find a D13B2 facelift 1995 gearbox. The difference between D16W4 and D14A2 boxes are very small. The only thing worth mentioning is that D14A2 has a longer 5th gear but that's it..

Update: I contacted CT Engineering and they said I can order through "cplracing.co.uk". They quoted me this price: "Price for the filter is £62, postage is £10. Prices includ VAT" It's too expensive for me but if anyone is interested drop them an email. One of the biggest advantages of this filter is that it has a velocity stack

You guessed right Almost all threads here are for B series for which I don't know much. That's why when I see a thread for D-series I shoot right away Yep, the head casting is the same as Y8 which is awesome. It's a pity that we can't use the roller rockers though when changing camshaft. Getting rid of the 12valve mode helps with low rpm torque. You can see in the dyno, you gain 47nm in 2000rpm, 11nm in 2500 rpm and 5nm in 3000rpm. Before the mini me the ECU was stock. Only cai + header. And about my engine, I'm still collecting funds for a remap. All the necessary parts for a mini me are in a box waiting for me. D16Z6 head will be a better choice but D16Y8 is still very good

Here's the difference: Before - http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/89509-ek3-civic-hatch.html#post1217683 After - http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/89509-ek3-civic-hatch-2.html#post1244654 The dyno is for mini me and D16Z6 intake manifold combined. You gain 9 hp up top, lots of torque in low rpm and the only downside - lower MPG. Don't change the complete head, it's pointless unless you want to rebuild the engine. Z8 head casting is the same as Y8. Just change camshaft, rockers and springs. You also need adjustable cam gear and Z6 injectors.

Yep, those are the one. Glad I was able to help.

Mine are Valeo and they meassure: 510mm and 450mm for the front and 430mm for the rear.