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The best ignition leads you can buy are OEM ones Your engine is equvalent to the more popular D16Y8.

Glad I was able to help I had to read a lot about gearboxes to make my hybrid one. Too bad my clutch is gone and I still can't see all the benefits from it. Good luck with your projects, I want to see some powerful D15Z8 over here

No problem mate, I'm happy to help. Use this table which I also posted in my project thread, it shows it all - year and model D16Z6/D16Y8 are the easiest to find. At least here.. And you can use this site to compare gears: http://www.teammfactory.com/gearcalculator.php

If you want stock gearbox, here are your options: D13B2 facelift (only from as 1995 model !!!!): This is the best stock Honda gearbox: 3.250 1.900 1.250 0.909 0.750 4.437 It has the shortest final drive and gears. With this gearbox you'll have the best acceleration. It's S20 (gearboxes before 96) so it's lighter. Only downside 5th is a little shorter. D16Z6/D16Y8: 3.250 1.900 1.250 0.909 0.702 4.250 This is again a good choice. The best thing is that your MPG will be the same as the stock gearbox (the rpm will be a tiny bit higher).It has short gears and the final drive is reasonably good. D16Z6 is S20 so it's lighter, D16Y8 is S40 so it has stronger shift forks (If you're not going on the track it won't matter that much). D14A7/D14A8: 3.250 1.782 1.172 0.937 0.750 4.437 According to me this is the worst option. It has the shortest final drive which is good but 2nd and 3rd gear are long. So comparing it to D16Z6/D16Y8 you will have a little bit greater acceleration in 4th gear but shorter 5th gear so MPG will be less. It's not worth it but if can't find the other option it' reasonably good. EGR cloggs your manifold with carbon, I don't think it helps with MPG at ALL... And I was told EGR on Hondas work differently and opens up when you floor it which will cause a decrease in acceleration. Maybe it's a good thing when the car is new but you don't need it. I hope this helps

Well it's certainly a step forward but like I said at this state it's likely that you won't feel any improvement. My advice is use the money for shorter/hybrid gearbox and/or mini-me, those should be your next steps. You must focus on the weak points of this engine, the intake manifold is definitely not one of them. (They are exhaust manifold, gearbox, EGR, vtec-e, ECU. All of them made for economy, not power)

Well, I'm not Polish either but like I said use Google translate, it translates it perfectly As you can see though it's not that easy.

Here's the most detailed explanation with pictures and etc. made by MikeFoto: http://www.civicklub.pl/forum/showthread.php?57697-FOTOinstrukcja-SWAP-Elektryczne-szyby-tylne They have amazing amount of resource on their forum. Use Google translate.

This intake should have a lot of complementing mods to see a benefit. And our stock vtec-e cam will not really take advantage of it. A little example, D14 engines that have the crapiest intake manifold like this (http://i55.tinypic.com/2it0y28.jpg). When they change the IM to D16Z6 there is no noticable effect. Of course this is a good uograde but on it's own you can't feel anything different. It's a good investment for the future but if you plan to stay vtec-E I don't think is very worthy. EGR it's not an issue, you'll just have two hanging cables.

block EGR(free) -> aftermarket exhaust manifold -> shorter gearbox (hybrid or d16z6/d16y8 or equivalent) -> bigger catback -> swapping cam and camgear from D16Y8/D16Z6 + chippable ECU + 240cc injectors + distributor from vtec engine -> DC2/Tegiwa/Mugen/Comptech airbox -> aftermarket cam and raising compression + aftermarket intake manifold or ITBs and so on -> .... -> Turbo/Swap

Let me share some more thoughts I think the transmission shouldn't play a big role in MPG. THe most important part is the motor and aerodynamics. If you stay in vtec (below 3000rpm) and max 60-65 mph (because of wind resistance) economy should be the same no matter what is the gearbox. With long 5th you can stay longer in vtec but with speeds 65mph+ because of the wind resistance, mpg is not omptimal. With shorter 5th gear you decrease the load on the engine, it's easier on hills - no need to downshift and when the car is fully loaded acceleration is less affected. Of course very long or very short 5th is always bad. (For example on D15Z3, 5th gear is horribly loong)

With hybrid box, FD 4.43 and 5th 0.702 - 70mph is around 3100 rpm. Stock gearbox is around 2900rpm. Your 5th gear is too short, what MPG are you getting with it ?

Browsing the internet I found this: I didn't know this thing existed. It looks cool and practical. And actually it has a good price. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-VTW100000

It's only Vtec-e, 114hp in MB3 and 90hp in MA9.

Actually they are differences. I talked to a friend who changed his seats from MB3 to VTI ones and it turns out VTI seats are more solid and heavier.

Front mudflaps from MB fit MA. But the rear ones are different on MA. I know that because I sold mine to a guy with MA. They do fit but not very properly.

I would, but it's impossible to find them here Haven't seen an Integra for breaking in years.

I'm searching for a quiet, cheap backbox with big inlet. I found the perfect candidate, stock backbox from Mitsubishi Galant 2.5 V6. But the problem is, the length of the exhaust is 50cm (without any pipes), my stock one is 35cm. Do you think there's even a little possibility that it will fit ? Complete dimensions are: length 50cm, height 17cm, width 29cm.

Just to confirm - it was the battery. Thank you guys again for the help When they tested it, it was completely dead. And a quick fix was made, Bosch S4 for 39 pounds, now that's a discount

Cheers guys. Don't need the car for now. When I go back home, probably at the end of the week I will report back but probably it's the battery. It got me worried because it's the first time I experienced this dead battery issue

Wow thanks for the fast responses. Will have to buy jump leads and try with that because I don't have them .. or battery charger maybe. It's strange because the battery has not given any indication at all that it's ready to die.

I drove from my home town to Sofia which is aproximately 120km without any problems at all. I left the car at the parking. This morning I tried to start the car but it is a no go. I uploaded a video. I haven't got any starting issues since I got the car. Where do you think is the problem ? Accumulator, starter ? mZtb-otOl7o

I voted for knight, if a M has projectors it has my vote

Yes, you can. Mine is from MG ZS

I hate this brainless idea, I can't believe we are still doing this...

I really hope they are if not.. again some money wasted