EmZvr

Nice dials, I see you got my color. But I like them better in km/h Shame about the temperature control unit, hope you get it sorted. What happened to them ? Mine are 4 years old now and not a single issue.

Nice car mate. Those wheels look nice and will look even nicer with mg zs suspension. You can see how it will sit here: http://civic5.com/forum/topic/9216-mg-zs-120-suspension-once-and-for-all/ And about the tires you'll be fine with 195/45/15. They should provide a very good feel of the road. The speedo difference will be 3,79% between stock and 195/45. This should bring the speedo very close to reading the actual speed.

Those plates look much better, I wish we had them here. Mine doesn't sound better/louder with the lid removed, don't know why. But let me tell you how my ITR airbox sounded awesome. Previously I was using simple 110mm flexible aluminium dryer hose for cold air extension. It's not good for airflow and is damaged easily so I changed it for itr resonator pipe. But with the dryer hose the sound was sooo good. It made an awesome roar noise probably because of the surface inside the hose or maybe the size. My airbox has stock DC2 filter. http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h361/EmZvr/P1130809_zpsngmvqr2c.jpg

Yes, he's camera shy. He thought he was well hidden behind the dash but apparently not

Aaand it's done. I hope I don't bore you to death with all those DRL photos That's the final one, a video of them in action. They actually replace the factory sidelights so that's a double win for me because the sidelights in my headlights were hidden behind the projector and were barely visible. Had to remove the black plastic plate behind the license plate for the DRL to be visible but I actually love the look without one.

I didn't even try how it will look with the top bulbs on. You should try it with and without bulbs and see how you like it. My plan was to have as little halogen bulbs as possible.

Yeah, tell me about it.. I love driving in blinding sun with my headlights on, seems so logical Mission accomplished then I hope you'll be able to see them when they are turned on though lol

That's a great price for custom items. Think about this while you're there http://moman.pl/eu/needles-lighting-kit---2x-uv-diode--fluorescent-paint,13,252060.html

Forgot about that, thanks for the idea. But my drls are big, would involve a lot of cutting. Also they have to be angled which means brightness will decrease. Anyway I decided to install them because I found a place that I like. A slight variation to the first pic. Will install them by the end of the week and report back

6x9 speakers in the factory place, that's interesting. How's the sound from them placed like that and how's the low frequency response ?

Yeah, it was a long journey. Now about the lights. The heater panel is lit by two led strips. I don't have pics so I made this in Paint. This is the heater panel with everything disassembled including the buttons. Think it as a 3D object. So one strip goes at the top and the other on the bottom. The led strips are the green lines on the picture. This way the light is evenly distributed. And all the buttons have led with resistor soldered directly on the button board.

Do it. I'm driving with a shaved pin for 4 months now without a problem.

Thanks for the feedback. Grant, believe me I have looked up every possible solution for drls. Like: White LED bulbs in the foglights - This is the perfect DRL buuut illegal Angel eyes - Might get away with it but will look bad on my headlights (example: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tR7cf_S1PO4/UXgt7l6vNcI/AAAAAAAAJzQ/aH90GP8BMH8/s1600/hidillusionz+1982-1992+chevy+camaro+fxr+e55r+led+angel+eyes+retrofit+07.jpg) Projectors white devil eyes - I have to make the retrofit again, drill the projectors and fit leds inside them which won't last long because of the heat inside the projector led strip in headlights - Again illegal, no place for it in my setup and probably won't look good If you have any other ideas please let me know.

Recently there was a law change in Bulgaria. Now we need to drive with low beams always on throughout the whole year Projectors HID light is almost invisible in daylight but the police doesn't care. The problem with this law is that HID bulbs quickly get dimm. Expect a lot of brightness decrease after about 600 hours. (I can post a picture of the difference if anyone is interested) And OEM bulbs cost around 60 pounds. (And I plan to upgrade to CBIs which cost 80+ pounds) I don't want to pay this price every two years. My only choice now is DRLs which I hate. Most of them look really cheap and spoil the look of the car. But I bought Philips Daylight 8. They are the most stealth looking drl I've found. I bought them at a bargain price with the idea to sell them if I don't like them. So they arrived today and I test fitted them in two locations. Now I need your advice, should I keep them and what position is better ?

If you are deoranged no point in putting orange bulb back, right ? You need bulbs P21W and some call it BA15S but they are very hard to be found (the not orange ones at least) My advice is use the more popular PY21W or BAU15S and shave one of the notches. Mine are like that and it works great. About bulbs I recommend Osram Diadem. They have a nice rainbow effect and they are proper amber and very bright. I DON'T recommend Osram diadem chrome, I now have them and they are yellow when lit, not amber at all.

D16W3 3.250 1.782 1.172 0.937 0.750 FD 4.437 It has the shortest final drive but with long gears. If you can't find or build a hybrid transmission or find a D13B2 facelift gearbox I would take it. It will still be a lot better than the EK3 stock gearbox.

I think oem and old headunits have a lot better radio. I previously had a very old cassette headunit - Blaupunkt C30. I was even able to pick up Romanian stations. Now I have Pioneer P6700MP which has a lot worse radio. Anyway I hope the amplifier fixes the problem!

He doesn't visit the forum often so let me reply. He has plasma glow dials and plasma glow heater panel. And all his buttons have stock lighting. Here's a link: http://moman.pl/honda-civic-1995-2000-5d---panel-reg--nawiewu,52,157.html p.s. Moman ship worldwide

Have you thought of using close gearing in stead of aftermarket final drive ? You can build this with oem parts: 3.250 1.900 1.346 1.033 0.878 FD 4.43 3rd, 4th and 5th gear can be acquired from D16A8/D16Z5 and final drive from D14A7/D14A8 and etc. This setup will be cheaper and you'll have a longer first gear which is a plus for a FWD car. 2nd and 3rd gear will be longer though. I have this setup (except mine has 0.702 5th gear) and it is great. Here's the difference between 4.9 final drive and the setup above: http://www.teammfactory.com/gearcalculator.php?kmh=1&tirewidth=195&tireprofile=50&wheelsize=15&tirediameter1=22.68&maxrpm1=7000&finaldrive1=4.43&gearratio1=3.250&gearratio2=1.900&gearratio3=1.346&gearratio4=1.033&gearratio5=0.878&gearratio6=0&trannytype=&tirewidth2=195&tireprofile2=50&wheelsize2=15&tirediameter2=22.68&maxrpm2=7000&finaldrive2=4.9&gearratioa=3.250&gearratiob=1.900&gearratioc=1.250&gearratiod=0.937&gearratioe=0.771&gearratiof=0&trannytype=&tranny=Calculate+Transmission+1+%26+2

Our tanks are 55 liters Info from the service manual Google translate: Low fuel warning lightIf the light comes on, you need to refuel as the fuel tank contains less than 8 litres.

Let me stop the guessing game It's 8 liters

K24 is awesome, I envy you so much. Here's an inspirational dyno. But for this motor, 3" exhaust system is a must.

Yes, that's me. In fact I was in every MG forum asking questions But don't mind my posts there, they are old and stupid. Rimmerbros doesn't sell front arb bushes bigger than 24mm for MG ZS. So I don't know how this guy would find bushes for his arb. Even google can't find any front arb bushes for mg zs in 25mm. But anyway that really is not so important. I just wanted to see If anyone tried different size for the front. It seems I'll be the first one. We can't just throw in the stiffest springs and stiffest arbs and call it a day. Fine-tuning is needed. When I change mine I'll report back.

MG ZS 180 has 24mm front arb, you can see here: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID003093 MB6 has 26mm front arb, I have meassured mine personally. Grant, that are exactly my thoughts. Especially for those runing Meisters such a thick arb doesn't make sense to me. According to the website I got most of my info (http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/lean-less/) the torsion rigidity of the arb is meassured by this formula: "twist = (2 x torque x length)/(p x diam4 x material modulus.)" And according to their calculations: "A 16.5mm bar is 1.46 times as stiff -or 46 percent stiffer- than a 15mm bar of the same design. Add just one more millimeter to the diameter of the bar--for a total of 17.5mm--and the torsional strength skyrockets to 85 percent stiffer than the stock 15mm bar." So the change from 26mm to 18mm front arb should be noticeable. I read some threads in which track honda guys are even removing the front arb completely but of course they run very stiff springs and I wouldn't do that on a street car. But as I said I'll do the swap when the winter is over. It's freezing cold here and my winter tires (185/65/14) are wobbly as hell. Krzys, ITR rear arb will be a great mod but I don't think it will fit without modifications or will it ? Jayhoath83, your experience is strange. You should have felt the opposite effect I know my car felt horrible without rear arb even with the mg zs shocks and springs.

Actually MB6 has the thickest front arb, probably because they have a pretty high and weak stock suspension which results in a lot of body roll. But almost everyone here is lowered. Some numbers: MB6 - 26mm front, 18mm rear MG ZS - 24mm front, 20mm rear Integra R - 24mm front, 22mm rear Thickening the arbs increases stiffness and doesn't affect ride comfort unlike stiffer springs but all of us are willing to sacrifice a little bit of comfort. Also cars are always set from factory to understeer. But everyone who is modifying his car wants to make it balanced or even oversteer. The bigger the rear arb and the smaller the front arb, makes the car balance shift to oversteer. MG ZS and ITR both have better rear to front arb ratio. Again I might be wrong but this is the information I gathered from the internet and sounds logical to me.