DeLaSoul Posted November 24, 2017 Author Share Posted November 24, 2017 On 11/23/2017 at 12:05 PM, Krzys said: Nice! Almost be a shame to get it all dirty but better than being a garage queen all its life! Designed to get dirty. Paint job was cheap but functional on the surface, and hard wearing on the inside and underneath. She'll end up backwards in a gravel trap at some point..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krzys Posted November 24, 2017 Share Posted November 24, 2017 1 hour ago, DeLaSoul said: Designed to get dirty. Paint job was cheap but functional on the surface, and hard wearing on the inside and underneath. She'll end up backwards in a gravel trap at some point..... Be disappointed if not! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLaSoul Posted November 26, 2017 Author Share Posted November 26, 2017 Quiet Sunday on the car, got a lot of little jobs done. Completed the engine side of the loom, just leaves the ECU and dash loom to do Bought the proper crimping tool for this job, glad I did otherwise I'd still be there now trying to sort all those pins! Every wire checked and rechecked, fitted and notes taken so I can build the other side! Got the carbon roof bung back. Not happy with it to be honest - I needs a lot of work but I cut the edge off and test fitted it for now Narrow gap to fill in with sealant. Also going to secure it with some fixings but I'll need to make those when i get time. One job I hated doing before was getting the bushes out of the front arms - had to do it again as I ended up giving one of my polybushed arms to my brother for his MB6. Got a new arm and decided to clean up and powder coat both and put new bushes in - step 1 was drill/press the old ones out Started to add the buttons for the dash to the binnacle. Messed up the holes in the carbon panel (too big) so will have to make another carbon plate but I'm happy with the fit and placement. Need to make some labels but it's just 4 buttons on the right. Left panel will be lights and wipers. Rebuilt the off side doors with everything bar the rubber seals. Took a bit of working out as I didn't strip everything into bags like I did with the rest of the car but it went back together in the end. Need some longer bolts to hold the perspex windows in as the ones I've got in there now are a little too short. Easy fix so not worried right now. Got the roof bars on too. Really do love the blue now it's being broken up by the black trims and parts 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chandler Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 looking good mate! if you need any genuine parts, i can get hold of em pretty cheap 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noodels Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 Maybe rubber trim round roof panel & latches on inside for injector seat/escape route option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLaSoul Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 10 hours ago, noodels said: Maybe rubber trim round roof panel & latches on inside for injector seat/escape route option Nah, I don't plan on wanting to leave once I'm in that seat More work over the last few days: Stripped the front hubs to get them ready for shot blasting, powder coating and new bearings and ball joints Also a good time to change out the wheel studs to the longer ARP ones so press out the old studs Get the inner race off the spindle Press in the wheel studs - need to be 100% square in the spindle Rear bearings already come in in the spindle, but still fitting the new studs Front hub disassembled, ready for blasting Rear hub also ready Rear arm needs the bushing removed before it is also good to go 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackwolf Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 very nice work mate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLaSoul Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 On 28/11/2017 at 8:30 PM, noodels said: Maybe rubber trim round roof panel & latches on inside for injector seat/escape route option Just ordered the correct carbon/metal glue so once the panel's been sanded and polished I can bond it in properly and hopefully it will stop the roof from flexing so much! Rubber trim is not a bad idea if it was to fit a standard cars roof mechanism..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted December 5, 2017 Share Posted December 5, 2017 Love reading this protect thread mate, so much work going into making the car perfect and plenty photos showing the progress. Inspiring stuff mate! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeLaSoul Posted December 5, 2017 Author Share Posted December 5, 2017 (edited) Okay, before I begin, this is how I rebuilt my rear calipers and may not be exactly the same on all models. Don't do any work like this if you are unsure what to do or are in a rush - seek professional help! Do one side at a time so you have one side for reference, get everything ready in advance and take your time! Tip: As you go, lay out the parts you take off in the order you removed them so it's easy to see the steps for the rebuild. This guide of for a full rebuild - you may only want to replace the piston and dust seal in which case you won't need steps 7 & 8 you'll stop and rebuild around step 10. I will do this in 2 parts, strip first and rebuild later. Tools: Large flat blade screwdriver Small slat blade screwdriver Bull nose pliers Internal circlip remover (long nose) 17mm spanner (or socket and ratchet) Wire brush Brake cleaner Rags Water Step 1. Identify which rear caliper you have - you can do this on or off the car. I did this by lifting off the caliper so I could measure the piston diameter and this helped me identify which rebuild kit to buy. There are several from what I've found, mine are 30mm piston but some seem to be 34mm pistons. Get the correct kit before stripping everything down! There are several options - you get a caliper kit or a caliper and carrier kit. You can even sometimes get a new pistons with all the new internals done, I've opted for a caliper rebuild kit as I have brand new carriers with pins and rubbers. Step 2. Order the kit from your favorite retailer and wait for the postman...... Step 3. Layout everything and make sure before you begin to strip the caliper you have everything you need Step 4. Once you have the kit and have a few hours to spare - Remove the caliper (and carrier if you are doing that too) from the car - I'll assume that you can remove the handbrake cable, brake hose and 2 retaining bolts Step 5. Check again, once you start this it's not easy to go back! I have 2 pistons, 2 caliper rebuild sets and (by mistake) the carrier rebuild sets Step 6. Clean up the caliper - you can do this a number of ways but I suggest plugging the brake hose fitting hole (little red cap in the pictures above) and wire brush up the caliper all around. Doing this now with all the seals in place you don't have to worry about getting dirt inside the caliper itself as the seals are still intact. I cleaned mine after the strip down and then had the pleasure of cleaning out the internals afterwards Step 7. Now the fun begins - hold the caliper securely and release the handbrake spring. It's not under a lot of tension so it doesn't want to fly across room! Step 8. Remove the handbrake nut - there is a lock washer underneath so be careful not to lose it. This will then let you remove the handbrake lever arm. Step 9. Turn the caliper around so you can remove the piston. The piston unscrews from the body of the caliper. I used the large flat blade screw driver for this, although there are proper tools for this job... Note that when you released the piston, you may still have some brake fluid in there - it will want to go everywhere. You can neutralize brake fluid with water (It will strip paint if left otherwise!) Step 10. Remove the dust seal - mine was broken but it came out easily with the small screwdriver Step 11. Remove piston seal part way down the caliper barrel. If you don’t get this out then you can't get the next parts out in step 14 Step 12. Remove internal circlip holding the self adjusting handbrake mechanism in place. Not easy to photograph but if you look down in the caliper you'll see the circlip that holds everything else in place. It took a bit of fiddling but wasn't impossible Step 13. Remove the top hat, spring, washer and bearing. It will fall out now the circlip is removed. Note the order they came out in! Tip- if you have a bolt and some washers you can assemble the bits in order and store them until needed Step 14. Remove the spindle. This will just pull out, leaving the last 2 pieces of the handbrake mechanism behind. If you're lucky, they may come out with the spindle, otherwise you can turn the caliper over and give it a light tap to remove. Be careful not to lose the pin underneath the piston Step 15. Remove the handbrake pin - This was held in place by the parts removed in step 14, so will now pull straight out of the caliper. Note which way round the hole in the pin faces! Okay, I'll stop here for now and finish when I start to replace all the seals. You now have a stripped caliper, ready for rebuild or painting. This isn't the easiest of jobs and I can understand why companies charge so much to do this work! Edited December 5, 2017 by DeLaSoul Spelling 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.