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Hi everyone, Thought I'd write up a post to help a few people out. Spent 2 hours researching this today. It is possible to fit after market seats in an MB model civic without a tailored/specially fitted subframe. So for all of those that would like a sportier seat, or some racing seats, this is how you do it and what you need List of parts: Seat (of your choice) Universal side mount rails Base mount conversion rails (you will only need these if you are buying seats with base mount/bottom fitting only) How to install seat seat: Remover factory seats and rails from car Remove factory rails from factory seat install universal side mounts to factory rails ( some bolts may need to be removed or cut off) put factory rails back into car with universal mounts attached Install base mount conversion brackets to side mounts install seat to base mount bracket If you have a seat that is side mounts only you will not need the base mount conversion bracket. you can skip step 4 and install the seat directly to the universal side mounts. The great thing about the universal side mounts is that you have a lot of choice in how you can position your seat. meaning you can have more lean in the seat. be higher up or lower down. this is all depend ending on the side mounts you buy and the amount of holes available. List of parts and seats I used to make this possible: Seat - Sparco R100 - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-r100-seat-7000253/ Side Mounts - Sparco Steel Side Mounts - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-steel-side-mounts-s-s004902/ Base mount conversion - OMP Base Mount Conversion Brackets - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/omp-base-mount-conversion-brackets-omphc0-0660/ Hope this helps anyone still trying to figure out how to do this.

Sensor for the ir remote I believe.

Finally got around to installing my Hondata and let's just say that I might have been a little nervous when I turned that ignition key for the first time, hah! But everything went well, and I now have a running, chipped D16Z9 engine, woohoo! It might be running richer than Jeff Bezos at a marathon for now, but a few good street-tuning sessions are going to take care of that. And I'm talking Lambda-0.8-at-idle-rich; Even a few seconds of cold-start are enough to make the whole courtyard reek of marzipan. Sadly I barely had any seat-time during the past few months, as the bane of every D-Series owner struck - ignition problems. It started as a random ignition stutter (rev-counter visibly took a dip) that quickly ended in a complete engine shut-off on my way home from work, and the car refused to turn back on again for at least five minutes after the initial shut-off. But it weirdly enough acted as if nothing happened when it did decide to work again. Spent a few weeks hunting down the issue, buying a new igniter, new coil, the whole nine yards, but the issue persisted. I suspected that the sensors inside of the dizzy might be the problem and looked up part numbers, but quickly found out that those are not sold separately. Dang it. That's when I went "F*k it, I'm gonna buy a whole damn new distributor." But, as it turns out, 99.9% of aftermarket dizzys for D-Series are hot garbage and people always have to buy new ones as they break down faster than you can say K-Swap. That's chinesium for ya... So I looked at those funny looking "Dragon Fire" -ones, which I admittedly didn't take seriously at first, and through their homepage I found out that they actually meet the IAT standard - Success! If something meets that standard, it's at least not as crappy as all of those cheapo replicas from China. The car has been running fine ever since and even gained a bit of torque down low! :D [A few weeks later...] Last weekend it was finally time for yet another small addition, as I finally grew tired of the original pedals and imported myself these beauties straight from the land of the rising sun. The instructions might be slightly difficult to read, but at least they included some pictures. And, well, installing pedals is kind of self-explanatory, y'know? Quick peek at them, straight out of the box. The installation process is actually super easy, as taking off the OEM accelerator-plastic is the most difficult step in my opinion. But with a small-ish flathead screwdriver and a little bit of convincing you can lift the plastic nose on the top and then just slide it off! After that, simply remove the plastic strips from the double-sided adhesive, set the covers in place and attach the small metal clamps that screw through the pedal covers to sandwich the pedal between the little clamps and the covers. This is what the finished product looks like. :) The clutch and brake pedal have that extremely grippy texture to them, which looks to be some kind of metal foam that has been injected into the frame. (Has even more grip than skateboard-tape!) Oh, and heel-and-toe has gotten a lot easier, as these pedals are a bit fatter than the OEM rubbers. All in all - way too expensive, but worth it. Mmm, take a look at that close-up.

Hey all! New here, although I see alot of posts are quite old, its cool to see people still active on these kinds of forums. I thought it would be a great place for information on potential mods, parts and specs regarding civic aerodecks. I know they are far more popular in the UK. Mine is actually the first one I've ever seen in person here in Ireland.

You can put lowering springs in B6 too. Bilstein told me you can use OEM springs or lowering springs. These shocks can take both. I installed the Eibach springs, and they are much better than the OEM springs. You can feel that the suspension works much better with the Eibach springs; I even find it more comfortable than the OEM ones, but I think it lowered a little more than I wanted in the front. At the back, it is very good. I have a friend with an EG Coupe with B8 and Eibach, and I feel it is more arsh compared to mine. I'm of the opinion that you shouldn't put EG stuff on MB when there are MB parts available because something has to change in that particular part; otherwise, they are both the same references. Don't use EK springs because the weight ratings are totally different. The spring plate is indeed a little bit small, but I have been running it for two years without a single problem. On the subject of brake lines, I have had mine secured by zip ties for almost two years without a single issue. Now I need to buy a front camber kit because the camber is at -2 degrees. This camber is a tire killer. I leave a picture of my Aerodeck with Bilstein B6 + Eibach Springs.

Got round to fitting the MG spoiler I got from Craig on here. Quick lick of plastidip and looks the part I reckon

My D14 used to do this too! Lol can't remember exactly what the revs were at as it was an automatic, but if using the gearshift manually when giving it beans there was a distinct change of note from the engine. That wee engine used to spin up the revs really nicely.

Yeah it’s nice! He did a 2inch cat back for me and welded on a backbox I already had, had a nicer bassy tone and seems to flow a little better which is nice! He wouldn’t cat delete it which is fair I can just do that myself when I get round to it, and all in all it wasn’t the most expensive job, was more than I wanted to pay if I’m honest, but a lot less than another place I had a quote from so I can’t moan too much right! Only issue is that I told him it’s blowing from somewhere I just don’t know where, and whether or not he actually checked I don’t know but he said he couldn’t hear or see it, yet it remains so I dunno. He said it could be the thickness of the Chinese manifold I have on, because it’s that thin it’s noisy, but I find that hard to believe if I’m honest. I don’t think it’s the manifold, I don’t think it’s where the mani meets the downpipe, so now that only leaves where the downpipe meets the cat. Hopefully when I decat it, it goes away then! Still got a huge parts pile to get fitted, managed to find a zs180 rear roll bar and all the fittings with it for quite cheap, new front wishbones and hard race compliance bushes, front ball joints, track rods, trailing arm polybushes, the 282 for the front and braided lines, the z6 intake mani and fuel rail, some Chinese ‘Bride’ universal seat rails to fit ‘Bride’ seats, coilovers, lca’s and toe arms. Think that’s about it…. Ooh and a new head unit haha. Annnnd new rocker cover and gasket when it gets here. Hmm, tegiwa brake stopper for the MC. Then I think that’s fully it! Got that different shifter set up all sorted too, not sure I’ve seen anyone else with it on as of yet? I’ll try get some photos and give it a little review. Fully worth it though, better than any generic short shifter / kswap replica ones that are about. Also that reminds me I have to fit the detent springs in the gearbox too…..

Coming along nicely mate! I'm deffo replacing DDs "meep-meep" horn too, looking at maybevfittjng one from a MINI of all things as they're quite beefy!

Long time no see... Small updates to the car only, got a steering wheel with quick release and installed these new wheels which I will use for the summer. This weekend I'm going to dial in the fitment completely adding some more camber (camber kit) and maybe spacers if needed.... To get most stance look as possible. I am so fan of the new wheels btw, they are awesome! Jr6 16x8 et25 if anyone is wondering, fits perfect... Waiting for some custom angel eyes headlights as well so they are coming on soon as well 😎

Yeah, I agree - think it looks top now.

Hello, I've just got my Honda Civic Aerodeck 1.6LS import from Italy. I would like to know how much power steering fluid and brake fluid i have to buy so my mechanic can change them fully(steering fluid and the clutch and braking fluid).

That blue looks stunning! Loving the car in its latest form mate!

so after my partners pug 106 quiksilver started have more problems then it was worth we sold it on. she wanted another civic as missed her ej9 and me having a civic didnt help. she wanted on bit bigger then the ej9 as kids now older so found a eu8 civic with 12 months mot and was in good shape. it was stock apart from some 17 inch alloys. i managed to find so ep3 type r bumpers and skirts cheap so got those. fitted front bumper and as rear bumper so to short for car i made plan to make rear lip fit. as the ep3 side skirt wasnt going fit and car already had side skirts i cut the end of the skirts off to extend rear lip. need fill join better but that be done in time. after more searching found so lowering springs, back box and projector headlights from a ep2 going cheap so had get them. once got took headlights apart and did inside black. fitted lowering spring and back box. we also debadged rear and wrapped chrome trim black and tinted rear lights. found a universal spoiler on ebay that looked like wud fit shape of car and was big enough for her. after abit i got some spray paint and painted rear lip and boot trim same colour as car. it little off but whole car needs deep clean. i picked up and carbon fiber exhuast tip as back box sat under bumper abit and didnt like that. finally then got the front bumper sprayed and put canards and splitter i made from spares and her owl fogs back in. few other bits car has is shark fin areil, rear bumper fins, wind deflectors and engine bay starting be sorted. still have few bits to sort

Yeah shadow grey it's called just finished it today on my lunch break lol apart from roof

Yup, deffo the sensor for the remote key fob.

Ahh man, sorry it didn't work out with the Crown mate. Truely nice car but like you say, expensive in every way. Had a feeling you would get pangs about the mb6 mate. the amount of time, work and money you poured into it, plus how long you had it, was always gonna be a tinge of regret selling her. Know I felt physically sick after |I sold Ruby the first time, even more so when I saw what the muppet that bought her was doing to her! Wasn't as bad the 2nd time I sold her although still miss her even now. Glad you're back in a Honda though! I have mixed feelings over the FN2's but mostly good feelings! I love the styling more than I think any car I've owned (except my Mk3 Cortina's though!), just think they look so cool from any angle! Also best interior I've had by far! Only things I didn't like about the TypeR FN2 were the fuel consumption and the ride. Just far too stiff for me! Power was nice though but deffo was gonna loose my license if I'd kept Roxy! If I'm honest, think I prefered my FN1 typeS, as a daily anyways. But loved them both, just something about the FN Civics. Even now I'm still looking at them on autotrader! Deffo get a new project thread going for the Fn mate, would love to see where you go with it!

Hi Guys and thanks for the replies. I’ve purchased the rear lights apparently from a w reg model (mb) but do have the amber indicators,I’ve purchased the rear struts from struts direct and now looking for the mirror. It’s in currently for a cam belt,water pump and tensioner so will look then. regards Gary.

Hey,.. erm yeah I did some more mods on the crown and got it all set up beautifully. Put some lovely 4 pot brakes on etc. then got a bit twitchy with it because everything is so expensive for those cars. Realised was gonna take 10k minimum really before I'd be remotely happy with performance etc, so I'd be into it for over 20k by that point. And also I drive so Infrequently when I do go out I want something fun to drive , which nice as it was, it wasn't a fun car. So sold it. Genuinely gutted I sold my mb6 actually. Moment of madness. So been in a bit of a rut and a bit grumpy about cars. But have baught an fnPoo with some nice mods on. And plan to put my stamp on that and do some track days etc next year.

Hi all, So I can confirm aftermarket seats, without cutting frames or welding mounts to car, are completely possible. If you have read my before method with the universal frames this way is a lot easier and more cost effective. After 3 months of research I found a company called Planted Technology, they produced made to order seat sub frames for many cars. I emailed them to ensure my car was not an EK or an EG. I measured up the cars holes and got back the details of the closest fit frames they make. The Honda Accord 4th & 5th gen have the same interior as the MB3/MB6. I took a risk bought the frames and they do in fact directly fit. I admit it was a bit of a fiddle as they had to come from America so may have been slightly warped or bent on delivery, never the less I got them in as seen in the image below Here is a link to the main page, it would better off ordering them from GSM performance Planted Technology https://www.plantedtechnology.com/products/planted-seat-bracket-honda-accord-4th-5th-generation-1989-1997-passenger-right GSM performance https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/planted-honda-accord-bracket/ Things to consider, these frames do not come with threads. M12 Nuts will be needed to fit seatbelts, M8 Nuts and bolts to fit seats to rails or frames, washers highly recommended

Haven't updated in a while, big upgrades to the car is a full vtis lip kit and full 2.5 exhaust system with 200 cell cat.... Sounds amazing now 😍

Hi guys. We've just added a new feature to the forum, Popular Contributors. You should see a box at the bottom of the home page (depending on the device you are using) which shows our most popular contributors. You can change it from week to month and year. If you click on the "see more" this will give a full list of contributors. Don't see your name on it? Get posting! We love to hear from you, even if it's just a small update on your cars projet thread or posting a pic of your car. Have look through the different sections of the forum and see if there's maybe a question been asked that you can help with. Most of all, enjoy the forum. It's your club and site!

First event today with the Aerodeck and my new retrofit headlights with the headlight covers on, imo they just finish the look of the car! Really stoked with the looks now

https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/planted-honda-accord-bracket/ Spoke directly with someone from Planted Technology and he confirmed the measurements for me

Good morning Dave, didn’t get pictures as I was too excited to get the seats in, will take them apart one day after work this week and show how i did it.

Really nice post! Will use this in the future :)

@Dave Thanks for the welcome, man. So she is actually a MC1, but has had a full conversion from a VTiS. Literally everything from inside to out. I am currently making use of the DIY mesh grill post here, as the last owner plasti dipped the grill and it was peeling. I think it's gone that way on most of these styles of forums. Everyone is using social media now, but it's great to see many people still active. The civic is my daily, as I have a Torneo SiR-T that I take out in the summer. But I do want to clean it up a bit, and have her show worthy. Funny enough, those rotas are coming off soon. I picked up a set of Rays C Ultra three spoke alloys for it, they just need a good refurb. Mod wise, she has a B20Z1 block with the B18C4 head, and a 96 teg type r lsd box. Fun aul car to drive.

Weird Honda didn't seal that bit as it's where most of the crap/spray from the wheels lands! Loving your fabrication skills mate, looks so much better with that pitted area cut out and replaced with fresh steel. one less area to worry about now! Deffo inspired me to learn welding, might look at getting a course in the new year. Is it a mig welder you've got and are you using gas or gasless? Got so many ideas/jobs (not just for the cars, some stuff for the garden and garage too!) where being able to weld would be amazing.

Today I Didnt get much done thanks to the damp weather but i managed to get the end section of the inner sill sorted. there was a bit of rust that i was not happy with as it was heavily pitted. Its where the Bolt goes up into the chassis and is spot welded to the back of the inner sill, its Sandwiched between 3 layers of metal. The bush mounting section, then the inner sill then the inner arch. Honda didnt seem to seam seal that area!! so it was left for all sorts of crap to get in and to start rotting it. so i got it all cut out, grinded it to bare metal, then zinc and weld through primed the areas, fabricated a new piece to go in from 1.5mm steel and welded it in. Still need to Grind down the welds but ill do that when its a bit drier.

Cheers, Dave! The idea is to just Cut out as much rust as possible, if in doubt cut it out! was a bit nerve racking at first making the cuts but once you get going its not too bad. and you can then just build from the ground up with fresh metal.

Thats really quick progres your making mate. Nice to see the end sill plate/aarch panels are available. Think i'd be bricking it to cut out the rusty metal but best thing to do, will leave you with a totally rut free shell. Your grandparents would be well proud of the work your doing to save their car. Hats off to you mate, deffo following this build!

So Today i have sorted out the boot floor finally, as it was starting to get on my nerves a bit. but its all welded, seam sealed and painted. alongside the refitting of the tow eye reinforcer. i also jacked it up to see if it would break, it didnt! which is great. Later on i started to work on the passenger side sill, i have cut away an area to gain access to the lower section, this will then be cut further out when i fit the new upper piece in. I will be fabricating new reinforcer panels, perhaps a new jacking point panel and the panel that joins the sill to the arch. Ive cut the area out of the arch out as i have a New old Stock panel to go in place, i also have a fabricated lower sill that i made earlier on in the year which will be getting cut to size to be butt welded in. I have also done some very quick fitments just to get an idea of the final work, although there is still some more cutting and grinding to do before everything fits in perfect. hopefully that will be all done tomorrow.

Lol 😂 you'll be fine mate, they're really strong. Ours have been on for the past 15 years or so and are still like new.

This is the colour the car be going soon. Nissan gtr bayside blue

Hello boys and girls ! Have been modifying cars for many moons but always fancied an Aerodeck so here it is . Knew to the chassis but have owned many Hondas in the past ! Travel send to stoke on Trent from Edinburgh for it today here are some pics once it was home , already fitted some Mg skirts sure I’ll be snooping in the background for info as time goes on I’ll keep updated with what I get upto

Hello everyone, This is my Honda Civic MB3, 90k miles. I just came across this forum today, is there any active members? It needs some work doing however its a blast to drive!

Got the front lip painted , now to collect some suspension and look into some wheels

Good idea to keep your ring clean mate I'll get me coat...

Never posted the results of my venture to give the front suspension an overhaul, but it's been done for a couple weeks at least now. Here are some pictures I used to be able to feel the left bearing rotating through my feet on the floor, it was definitely starting to fail, new bearings are smooth as butter. Steering is a bit snappier and direct, but the confidence it puts in the car is awesome. There's hardly any body roll at all, which is surprising considering it's still a stock ARB This thing finally feels underpowered, and I'm yearning for more...next up however, is the rear suspension. Rear LCAs, Camber and Toe arms up next. My Mb2 did not come with an ARB in the rear so perhaps i should invest in one, would it make much difference back there?

Looks mint. Proper sleeper! Was reading about the engine yesterday - sounds like a clever bit of kit and a bit of a beast. Bet you can surprise a few folk with that Interior looks cool.. Is it just me or does the wheel look like the mb one. I hadn't spotted that the top part of the radio was climate control - thought that whole unit would be able to swap out. It's always a good opportunity to have some old tunes on though - one reason I keep my minidisc

Ahh mate! The mats are lovely. Like arctic camo OEM s**gpiles! Very random. Yes can do double din where the cd player and cassette lives under the big flap at the bottom. Of course cam get large android screens like i have in the alphard too. When money allows ill look into something for it. Until then its got 3 prodigy albums in it. Took a few snaps tonight.

So an Update on the Lower Sills I Managed to cut them out the other day, i got all the pieces i needed to create the sections that are required. As shown i used the existing cutout to get the shape of the sill, for the Rear Extension piece and also the mid section The welding course that i was doing said that we are able to do a project in the last lesson, so i used this time to start bending the metal to the profile that i need for the lower sill. This saved me buying a Metal bender that fit the requirements for the job as i needed one that was capable of bending 1.5mm steel and the length had to be 1200mm or more for the mid section if i was to buy one like that youre looking at £1000+ for a decent one that will last you. So here are some images to show the final product really chuffed with how they have turned out, they do require an ever so slight bit of fettling to get right as the profile of the back part actually isn't straight however it comes in at an angle then straightens out when it gets to the wheel arch There are a few other little panels that i still need to fabricate such as the panel that joins the wheel arch to the sill and also the jacking point reinforcer that sits inside the sill. These will all be made in due time. I then offered it up to an existing panel to see how well it fits into place, and to be honest i was surprised how well it did! After all the Testing of fitments and other things i thought nows the time to get them protected so they dont rust. I keyed the surface and made sure that the panels were clean from dirt, rust and residues and then used some Bilt Hamber Electrox Zinc primer. Coated them twice to make sure there is a good layer of protection. Overall im chuffed with the outcome, who knows i may end up getting a Metal bending machine and start making repair panels for these cars lmao certainly ideal as a lot of the panels that are out there for these cars aren't the best.

That's amazing that you're learning toweld mate, something I've a,ways wanted to do. My dad was a professional welder for 40 yrs and was always going to teach me once he retired. Sadly passed away before he could teach me. I tried it at high school (this is going back to about 1984 so think before mig and tig really became the norm) and I was totally pants at it! I was shit scared every time it struck an arc! lol Handed the rod to the teacher and said F*&ck that, you do it! lol😄 I will learn one day though as it's deffo something I still want to master. Post up pics of your box you made too mate, nice to see how you're starting out and then what it's like when you've gotten the hang of it. Will help me see where I'm going wrong too when I start lol

Toyota Crown is an amazing car, loaded with kit and the ultimate cruise mobile. Can look so sweet modded too.

Not updated for a while. Poppy been doing daily duties well, not had any issues so well happy. MOT was going to run out while Gayles away on holiday in May so decided to put her in early so I don't end up with no car! lol Knew there was a wheel bearing on it's way out as could hear the droaning noise. Jacked her up and checked all 4 wheels.......front pass side had slight play, all the rest were fine. Thought I'd put her in anyways, see if she passed with the wheel bearing then I could just change it once i got paid. Well, that didn't go to plan! She passe the 1st mot we put her through a year ago fine. This year she failed on: N/S/F wheel bearing (which we expected anyways but chanced our mit) Front left to right brake pipe corroded to excess Front to rear Brake pipe corroded to excess and weeping. I too was weeping when i saw the bill! lol😆 To be fair, they were still the oem pipes so no shame to it really, and deffo not nthe worst MOT I've ever had. Quite pleased as everything else was fine and I hadn't seen the pipe weeping so glad they spotted that and fixed it. Got the garage to just do all the work as I don't have it in me at the moment, so was £350 plus the mot fee. And they got it all done that day for me (even staying past their closing time to complete it for me) so very happy. What a difference driving her now without that awful wheel bearing noise!! Poppy now back to daily duties and driving ace! Next job to do is on the interior as quite a few creaks/rattles/squeaks for the dash plastics now so going to remove all the trims and line the back of them with felt which will get rid of any unwanted noises. Got the big pack of felt (self adhesive so will make it easier to fit) here ready for the job. Just need to get my head in a better place so I can start it!

Hope it's going to a good home mate - you should be proud of what you've created with that car. Touch of class. Are you planning on staying jap with the next car?

thanks. I can't leave a car alone lol.

HONDA CIVIC 'M' SERIES COMPATIBILITY DATABASE Civic5 accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or omissions from this database and all that STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS *Wheel and tyre info....Stock ET is 45 for all M's (widest recommended rim with this et is 6.5" at r15? ). DC2 alloys need spacers to fit over 282 calipers *Springs and shock absorbers....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. DC2 coilovers will need the Integra LCA. Matched springs and shocks are specific to the weight of the model so Aerodeck are different as are other civics or Integras. *Front upper wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/400/45/zs. EK is different the bushes are pressed into the arm. *Front lower wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Front hub carrier and balljoints....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Hubs....All M's use 4 x100 pcd hubs from contemporary civics except the MB6 which uses 4 x 114.3 (4.5") pcd hubs from the Integra and Prelude. *Front ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes *Rear ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes. *Front suspension bushings....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Track rod ends....Same as 45/400/zs *Steering rack...Same as 45/400 *PAS pump...Non Honda engined Rovers use flexible hosing (mounted on right of engine) *Rear trailing arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. Drum versions can not be converted to disc. *Rear upper control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear lower control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ej/400/45/zs. Some LCA's do not have a mounting for an ARB. *Rear toe adjuster....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Trailing arm (compliance) bush....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear suspension bushes....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs BODY PANELS AND LIGHTS *Front bumper....All different, to change MA to MB you also need to change bonnet (and front crossmember?) MB6 front lips will not fit the MA without modification. *Rear bumper....MB will fit MA *Sideskirts........MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit the same mounting points. Vti-s and ZS180 having variations in style. *Front wings....All different *Bonnet....All different. *Bonnet catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same. Catch lever varies on MA. *Scuttle cover....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Windscreen....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Door glass.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Tailgate....MA/MB same apart from number plate surround. *Tailgate catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same, all standard struts will take the weight of the standard vti spoiler. *Doors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Headlights.... MA/MB slightly different outer shape. There are no aftermarket headlights. *Taillights....MB fit MA, MB have clear indicators, MA amber. *Side repeaters.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Fog lights....MA and MB have slightly different surrounds? *Wing mirrors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit same, some electric, some manual *Sunroof.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same. *Handles and other trim pieces.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same apart from number plate surrounds/ rear light trims. INTERIOR *Front seats and rails....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Other Honda seats will need modification to the rails. *Rear seats and rails....MA/MB same ZS will not fit. *Centre console....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Some models have a centre arm rest that fits all M's *Dashboard....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. The MB6 vti-s has carbon dash inserts. *Steering wheel....MA/MB same MB6 has leather finish. Rover will fit but are trispoke so you will not be able to get rid of the Rover airbag and logo. (DC2 will fit with modification?) *Steering column....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Switches etc....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Instrument cluster....MA/MB/400/45 same. (ZS 180 and MB6 have different tacho's?) *Door cards....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Pillar trims....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Headlining....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Rear mirror....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Parcel shelf....MA/MB *Audio components....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same. The MB6 and some Rovers have better speakers and door tweeters that fit all M's. BRAKING COMPONENTS *Front discs....262 except MB6 which uses the 282 system. Some companies make 282 rotors to fit 4x 100 hubs (generally as an upgrade to EG civics) *Rear discs/drums *Front calipers....Single pot lucas 262 system. Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. 282 for MB6. *Rear calipers....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ. *Master cylinder....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ.(?) Does the 'teg use this too? *Brake fluid.... *Brake hoses....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. Drum and disc versions are different. *Rear Disc backing plates part numbers. SMD000080  SMD000090 From RimmerBros (order for MGZS) Just checked still showing in stock around 25 each (as of 21/3/2020)  ECU AND ELECTRICAL OBD Loom/ aftermarket wiring Lamda IACV FIT VTEC controlers Fuses and resistors Battery Alternator D SERIES ENGINES- D14A2, D14A4, D14A3 (EDM), D14A8, D15Z1, D15Z8, D16B2, D16Y5. Engine mounts Sparkplugs Engine oil Oil filter Fuel filter Distributer HT leads Valves and valvetrain parts Cam Cambelt Cam gears Crank Pistons Con rods Intake Throttle body Intake manifold Radiator Fan Thermostat Coolant FI info B SERIES ENGINES- B18C4 Same sort of stuff TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS Shifter UJ Shift rod Extension rod Shift bushings Clutch Master cylinder Reservoir Release cylinder Gearbox Gearbox oil Driveshafts EXHAUST COMPONENTS Manifold....B and D series engines use a slightly different manifold Cat section....UKDM cat (different length from the JDM cat) Mid section....MA/MB all same (?) do rover fit? Backbox....MA/MB all same except Aerodeck which has a longer tail (?) There's probably a lot I've missed off, might be best to improve it as we fill out the list? We probably ought to have glossary for terms (stuff like DC2, EG, ITR, IM, PCD) to make it accessible for noobs and non Honda geeks