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Hello guys! Been a while since I last posted on here and my car park has changed... but not really! My MB2 is sadly not with us anymore, I was involved in an accident last year around march and sadly sustained chassis damage. They had just redone the asphalt on a road I used to enjoy driving on at night, it suddenly switched from old harsh but grippy road to freshly new asphaltwith no signs. New humid roads = slippery like ice so I understeered into a cement block, saved it a bit but not enough so I hit the corner of the block with the back of my front right wheel arch, bending the roof rail and the firewall corner. I was fine but I didn't recover mentally for another 2 months at least, I was really attached to my car. Time came when I started looking for a new car, and in just 2 years the marked had imploded, I couldn't find anything I liked for a decent price. My dad then reminded me about Rovers! I started learning more about the history of this joint venture and really liked the R8 platform in particular (Honda Concerto, Rover 200 [Coupe, Hatchback, 3 doors and Cabrio] and 400 [Sedan and Tourer wagon!]. Many of you will know about it in detail already but for a quick debrief, the R8 platform had Honda D series engine options as well as rover K and T series options, front Rover Macpherson suspension for Rover T series engine size concerns ( Double wishbone domes are way too bulky for the T16 2 liter, especially turbo on the 220 Coupe ), Honda Civic EF derived rear suspension, mostly upmarket Rover designed interior with real wood trims and honda sourced switches + little details. With that in mind, I set out to scour the menacing dephts of facebook marketplace and found 2 candidates under 2k euros, a black prefacelift Rover Coupe with 280k KM and a British Racing Green facelift fascia Coupe with 317k KM. We went to check out the first one, lo and behold it ran on 3 cylinders at best, had a rust hole in the sill big enough for 2 fists and was resprayed black from Nightfire Red, which is a gorgeous color and a sin to respray. Only thing left to do was check out the other one! Turns out it was on its 5th owner, a farmer with an extremely thick regional accent I could barely understand, and apparently hoarder of cars (even had an MB6 once). The car had a lot of chipped spots on the doors and generally anything around wheels, like it was driven HARD on gravel. Despite that, it run well and had 0 rust! The interior was dirty, driver seat scratched but still solid once cleaned, and the extremely bolstered Rover seats were RIGID still. We ended up getting this one for 1200 euros! Even drove it home 400km on worn front bushings, still a pleasant ride nonetheless. Fast forward a year and it's still my daily, improved upon every month I owned it, from maintenance to sorting gremlins. I really love the D16A8 DOHC lump, it sounds heavenly with a filter and pulls quite high in the rpm! The gearbox has super short ratios, even more than the CRX equivalent (in fifth gear my tacho sits at 3800rpm at 100kmh...) Pardon my formatting skills, just tried to cramp as many photos as I could of the things I really like about the car! The frameless doors are definetely up there, but the T top roof with removable glass pieces is amazing! By now you would probably be asking yourself "Wait, why make a post about it NOW of all times, and why here?!" My dad recently got wind of a pretty sick and well preserved example of a CIvic MB1 1.6i SR VTEC in Orleans Blue Pearl near our city! The car has 52k KM on the odometer and has been garage kept its entire life, 1 owner, only used for big trips around europe apparently. The catch? it hasn't actually ran outside the garage in 22 years at most. We thoroughly checked it out and haggled it down to 2k euros. It is an almost fully optioned example, with the only options missing being the Honda head unit + CD changer and leather interior (Which I wouldnt have liked as much). It has 4 rotors and ABS, Sunroof, 15 inch alloy rims, spoiler and bumper lips, fog lights, all four electric windows, AC and alarm + keyfob! I don't have many great pics of the car as a whole, since the calipers are seized and basically every single wear item needs to be replaced because of the age, but I'll surely post one in the gallery in a week or 2! For now, I only have these messy photos under my dad's garage's neon lights, which alter colors way too much... Under the passenger seat, in the secret cubby I discovered the original folder with every single document about the car and even a Honda Gold Card! So there's that, I'll definetely update this thread whenever I feel like it, thanks for reading :D3 points
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Yes, there are some marks - I guess it was to align the drill or whatever they were using in the factory if the car was to be an MB6. I'd love to know what they did - I imagine just drill and tap a hole, thread in a stud ... or maybe there was more to it than that? Maybe some extra reinforcement underneath? I found a video of someone working on an EG just now doing basically the same thing as I wrote earlier but using a piece of metal behind as reinforcement - it seemed to work OK for them3 points
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A basic smoke tester can be useful in these situations. Leave it inside the car with the doors and windows closed for 30 mins or so to fill the car with thick smoke, you should see it leaking out of the holes. I have this one - its basic but does the job aliexpress.com/p/tesla-landing/index.html?UTABTest=aliabtest125094_24784&src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=784528327853&ds_e_matchtype=search&ds_e_device=c&ds_e_network=g&ds_e_product_group_id=2463919240694&ds_e_product_id=en1005006642306652&ds_e_product_merchant_id=106959561&ds_e_product_country=GB&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=23272714697&albag=191864323674&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23272714697&gbraid=0AAAAAD6I-hHL-qdK3MTpI0Ema2awFtvJN&gclid=CjwKCAjwspPOBhB9EiwATFbi5PCAR3LaZGphD23BdD1CPkhjJilbrB9rcTukI15yr1pC9FbnhiKokBoCeDkQAvD_BwE&aff_fcid=a41b7480c3234acabb05997aa673a8c1-1774543819938-06152-irey5Th&aff_fsk=irey5Th&aff_platform=promotion&sk=irey5Th&aff_trace_key=a41b7480c3234acabb05997aa673a8c1-1774543819938-06152-irey5Th&terminal_id=24f51958e50f4dda8253ef308c411e91&scenario=c_ppc_item_bridge&productId=1005006642306652&_immersiveMode=true&withMainCard=true&OLP=1116833308_f_group1&o_s_id=1116833308&afSmartRedirect=n Also useful for testing out exhaust and intake/PCV/etc leaks3 points
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The easiest way is to get a bar that mounts into the top mount studs of the suspension, like this However, I have been given an MB6 strut bar for free so I wanted to attempt this install. According to the internet I should do as follows: Offer up the bar Mark and drill 8.5mm holes into the strut towers Use M8 bolts (grade 10.9) with penny washers through from the underside and tighten it down I have all the parts ready to go and will report back soon ...3 points
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Hi mate. There is some mystery over the actual numbers of each VTiS model made. The logbook should have made it easy to identify a genuine one, but unfortunately even that is a minefield as Honda dealerships made mistakes with them when registering the car with the UK DVLA. Some have VTiS on the logbook, some just state model as VTi. The only parts that were unique to the VTiS were drivers side floor mat which had the VTiS logo on it (the other 3 mats were just standard) the gear knob (alloy and engraved in the early VTiS, silver plastic/black leather with "VTiS" in black on it for the post 1997 ones) and the alloys (again, these differed so early ones got 15" Speedline Chronos wheels, later ones got the same as the ones in your photos which are 15" Speedline "fans"). The body kit was available in the accessory catalogue, but was standard on the VTiS. The "mid spoiler" on the aerodeck was also an accessory option. The other thing that marked out the VTiS was the pirates black paint. All VTiS came in pirates black only, so any you see that don't have pirates black are 100% not a genuine VTiS. The Aerodeck ones are a lot rarer as most were the mb6 5 door hatch. Hope this helps a little.3 points
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Hello to all of you, First time posting on the forum, kinda wanted to share a bit about my mb2 since i first came to find some knowledge about these mb chassis. It's my first car, family owned since new and it's getting to the 100k km mark, and in my two years of driving and enjoying the car i can say it's a great car and frankly very underrated and deserves a lot more recognition The car has nothing major done to it, it's mostly stock aside from some small cosmetics. The mods are: Front mudflaps out of a junkyard pirate black mb2 1DIN android auto radio Reuphostered steering wheel Rear spoiler out of a Rover I have many plans for it later but most of em are cosmetics and i won't bother to modify a D14, maybe just a intake at best since the oem one is plastic. It's getting lowered and i want it to ride on some ek4 vti rims, or civic jordan rims and vti lip is also in the list Cheer, Costa.3 points
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Its been a long time since the last update. So yeah of course it is fully wrapped now by myself and lowered even more. Looks pretty good but for sure sometime in the future I might paint it (I'm currently doing car painting education) plans for the future: Turbo... I found a cheap kit on marketplace and then I'm gonna try and make a reliable stock internal setup, so not that high boost3 points
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Looking good if I do say so myself! Headlights definitely letting the side down, need a good polish and coating.3 points
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Ive been test driving the car and noticed a pool of oil underneath. Inititally I thought it was power steering as i'd been making a lot of changes there but on closer inspection I found a pool of oil on the gearbox - uh oh! It turns out i'd installed the driver's side gearbox oil seal completely wrong and it had been chewed up by the intermediate driveshaft it SHOULD look like this (after installing a new one, this time installed flush with a seal driver) Topped up the gearbox oil and so far so good (or more like refilled... it had lost over a litre which could've ended badly. At least I found it after only doing about 30 miles in the car) It's going on the dyno on Monday ... fingers crossed there's no more issues and it makes good numbers!2 points
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Hey everybody, glad I could be a part of the forums now, I'd like to show you a couple pictures of my new to me MB8, it has some really nice OEM goodies too, like the wind deflectors and metal plates door sills. This is hopefully going to be a build thread for this car as I buy more stuff for it and upgrade it in the future. Hopefully you guys like it!2 points
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Bought a VTI front lip for the aerodeck, got some slightly lower springs so it sits lower by a smidge and got temporary 15 inch summer wheels since last time. Had the car for almost a year now and I loved every single second of owning it2 points
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See that! Even now, I learn a new thing about these Civics every day in the forum!2 points
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Hello everyone, recently pretty much every welding point of my exhaust is starting to rust apart, and the middle muffler already fell of completely (although ridiculously loud it was fun to see what sound that little d15z8 could eventually produce, even with its catted headers). Now i'm looking into aftermarket exhaust systems, but - at least here in germany - pretty much every system thats not just the rear muffler bolt-on is optimized for the models that have the cat under the car, not in the headers. Now I'm considering moving my cat underneath the car instead and switch over to an exhaust setup of the sportier models. Besides still having to clear up the legalities of that in germany, what are the technical problems i might run into? Could i reuse the little cat piece, is it universal or would i need a different one? Could my Ecu even handle having to relocate the 02 sensor, and will it still be able to adjust the air/fuel ratio correctly? Will it bork the way the car runs on cold starts or in closed loop? I dont have any experiences making serious modifications to cars yet, and not alot of contacts in my vicinity. If anyone has any experiences or insights please let me know, it would be greatly appreciated! Chsi2 points
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Sorry for your loss, but nice to see you found a solution you're happy with! Although for some 'more reasonable' people than us old car people that 2 car solution you picked might seem a little risky or unreliable even, i think its a good choice for a lineup of daily and project nonetheless. Looking forward to seeing it unfold, and to see what you'll be doing to both of them!2 points
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Gear issue sorted - the culprit was some badly made shifter cables (they were cheap ones from Aliexpress - you'd think I'd know better by now...) The cable was too long and not allowing the selector to engage fully. I removed this locknut and wound the cable eyelet further down the shaft and this resolved the issue. Whilst I would rather have the locknut in place as i'm sure there's a reason for its existence, the cables work fine without them and can't unscrew anyway as they're held on to the gearbox with a cotter pin. I've found since buying them that these are actually a cheap copy of a K-tuned cable design so it would not surprise me if the quality control was lacking, or they were actually copied wrongly in the first place A few small minor issues to knock off and then MOT time!! π€ͺ2 points
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My first time trying a string alignment at home - no expense spared alignment rig built out of 2x curtain poles, 2x builders chalk lines, 4x axle stands, and some rubble bags with white grease in between to act as turnplates! π€£ It did seem to do the job though. At the very least, it means my tyres won't get shredded on the way to get an MOT and then on any test drives. Stance looking bang on now! I went to go for a VERY quick test drive and quickly found I couldnt select 2/4/6 gear .. oops. It was working until I swapped the shifter so I think it's nothing serious just a shifter cable adjustment issue. One of these days it will leave the driveway!!2 points
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Hi there! My account is all good and approved now! I made that comment before my account was approved though, so I'm assuming it submitted my comment but didn't actually post it until my account was eventually approved after reaching out to one of you admins on facebook (I believe that was you @Dave). Sorry for any confusion and thanks for the help guys!!!2 points
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Managed to get the car out into the sunshine today for the first time since October! I set up the ride height as best I could following some online guides (trying to give maximum "bump" travel) and adjusted the camber using a fairly cheap magnetic gauge, which wasn't the easiest thing to read but did the job, -1.75 degrees at the rear and -2.75 degrees at the front which seems to be a good starting point according to people on the internet who are much cleverer than me! Visually it looks about right comparing to other builds i've seen at least. Next time i'll adjust the front and rear toe using strings to try and at least get it somewhat in the ballpark. After replacing the steering rack the front wheels somewhat resemble this GIF currently!2 points
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Ay up lads indeed of some help please. Canβt find any wings for my Mb1/Ma. Would buying a full front end of an mb6 fit nicely? Needing to know ASAP please2 points
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Turns out the handbrake problem was actually user error I found a post here that showed me I hadn't followed the correct procedure! Once I did that it was all fine and I didnt need to swap the cables in the end (so I can't comment on the MG Rover ones i'm afraid) What I can tell you is these parts are the correct length and and do work, but the quality control was a bit suspect (I had to file open the hole in the handbrake cable bracket slightly and file off a bit of badly machined cable that was hang out the end of the pin) 92.10.5233 COFLE 10.5233 Handbrake cable 1655, 1469mm, Disc Brake | AUTODOC price and review 92.10.5234 COFLE 10.5234 Handbrake cable 1636/1449, 1636, 1449mm, Disc Brake | AUTODOC price and review2 points
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Same as CRV then had 2 of the sometimes its rot under the windscreen ive found that out, the step wagons very similar in design to the CRV. i would have one as a day van owned a Bongo 2.5TD and it was a rot box but i do miss the handy platform of a 4WD van, i dont miss the repair prices though LOL.2 points
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Yeah I had the windscreen one on the VTIS sealed back up last summer, most of the time it's undercover or under the carport at the side of the house.2 points
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My Work Horse 1.6 SE daily again same as Paradox Fuel Prices keep me running this and reliability and keep the VTI-S on the back burner has all the standard leaks Ha Ha2 points
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Yeah i like a Volvo had a V70 T5 probably 12 years ago when i sold my 3rd MC2 missed the induction noise of Vtec so bought my VTI-S. Probably only thing id trust as much as a honda, alot more Juicy though 18MPG i averaged haha.2 points
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OK after 10 Years away from the Forum i have returned to get the VTI-S back on the road. I have Rebuilt the Engine again as the 2016 rebuild didn't go as planned but to be honest the main reason its been off the road for 5 years was due to many factors 1 being Money, 2 being Welding, 3 Mental and Physical health but ive done 75% of welding and just getting bits sorted. having a break while i help my mate rebuilding his Silvia S13 that's going on the ramps for its MOT next week.2 points
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Honestly I couldn't be happier with the engine. After blocking of the EGR it goes pretty well and it still returns great mileage. On my trips to the Czech republic and Austria it got 5.3/5.5 l/100km (50+ MPG) pretty easily without hypermiling. And I don't need to rev it to hell like the smaller petrol engines.2 points
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Welcome along mate. Start a member's car thread so we can see your car. π I'm quite partial to an old volvo.. Do you have one at the minute?2 points
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Done quite a bit of reading and come to the conclusion that the handbrake cables I ordered were just crap quality. I can max out the adjustment nut on the handbrake handle, it seems like the cables are stretching or the wrong length. It looks like the Honda MB and Rover 45/MGZS handbrake cables are the same so i've ordered a replacement set from DRMGS (Rover 45 / MG ZS Handbrake Cables - SPB100720 / SPB100730 / SPB000580 β Discount MG Rover Spares - Tel 02380 001133 / Email sales@dmgrs.co.uk) - im hoping they are better made as i've good experiences from stuff i've bought there recently. Fingers crossed.2 points
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Yes - it's not bad really, i've definitely sat in much worse. The seat could possibly go a little lower but I will probably mess about with that once i've actually driven the thing in its current form (getting restless now π€ͺ). I can reach the controls comfortably, that'll do for now! Without the sliders in it could go REALLY low. The sliders add a tiny bit of height but you also can't mount the seat at the low position at the front as the locking bar fouls on the seat and you can't adjust it.2 points
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That's how I ended up tracking the leaks down myself Simon, stripped out the headliner & rear interior & had the hose pipe on to pin down where it was getting in, turned in to a huge lot of work, but well worth it in the long run, also did the headliner while it was out as like most it was not in great condition & on removing it, it just started peeling away, new skill learned though, but it's not a simple job with all the holes & countours on the deck headliner, I'm sure a regular MB withut a sunroof would be pretty easy in comparrison.2 points
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Yes cars that came with it have studs. However I'm sure there are dimples said studs where would be on the cars without. Questionable how much reinforcement it offers. But better than nothing I'm sure.2 points
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It's been a while since I did it, but I think I just used some plastic trim pry tools to ease them off.. As always warm weather is your friend when old plastic clips are involved....2 points
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Nice car, factory wind deflectors are always a good choice I spent far too much money getting some JDM ones for my accord !2 points
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Cheers mate. Not exactly mint. But it's tidy enough. Bit over mint. Although I do try do decent work on em2 points
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Cheers man, I've really fell for it. Crawled around underneath at the weekend squirting lanoguard in all it's crevices. Just lifted it right up on the bags and it was higher than I can normally jack the deck up π Took a couple of (not very good) before pics after a bit pressure wash the day before. Generally clean enough, but glad I've got it treated now as there's a few places where there's some slight signs of rust starting.2 points
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Welcome back mate, good to see you back in a civic - looks up to your usual minter standard π2 points
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It depends on the head unit. I know that some old Pioneer Head units are easy to hack. They have a 3.5mm jack input for audio controls and you only need a combination of resistance value for each button (vol up, down etc). Some others as JVC are more complicated as they need pulse modulation so you need to find or hack the code from remote control with reverse engineering. I dont know about new head units we have to do some search.. First of all you need to mount some switches on your wheel.and get or retrofit (if it's possible) the cable reel so that you can get 2 extra wires from it. That's what I am also searching for :)2 points
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Great, that means I am okay with the dash trims already. Hoping to find a badge and some mats in the meantime π€Just ping me if you want to get rid of that badge.2 points
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One lady owner from new , has every single mileage stamp from the same Honda dealerships from new 86k on clock, its pretty clean i did replace Headliner as it was sagging, just a little runs on rear arch's that i would love to sort out but not a clue who to go too this is my first car coming from motorcycles , yours looks so mint dude!2 points
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Hi mate, that was my wife π She messaged me to say that she'd seen an aerodeck there, glad that you joined π Looks like a proper tidy example, been ages since I've seen another deck round here. Welcome to the club matey.2 points
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Been chipping away at jobs the last few weeks and should be ready to drive soon. Everything in the engine bay should be done now - had a quick tidy up any loose pipes/wires and made sure everything was bolted down securely. It's not a super tucked show car but I think it's neat and tidy enough for the type of build that it is. Plus everything is easily accessible for servicing! Fitted a small washer fluid bottle - Β£10 from Amazon so it's a bit cheap and cheerful but it connected straight onto the factory washer pump connector and lines! Removed the rear washer pipe as we've already removed the rear wiper. The Hybrid Racing cold air intake bolts into where the factory washer bottle sits so it had to go. Picked up a set of Enkei RP01 (15x7 ET35) wheels for a reasonable price (about the same as i'd pay for a set of Rotas or similar). Will get some tyres on them this week and see how they look on the car. The main thing is they fit fine over the MG ZS front callipers with plenty of room to spare. I wasn't sure they would initially as the ZS came on 16s, although admittedly with much less offset. They've been rattle canned by the previous owner but honestly he (or she) has really not done a bad job at all. Initially I was looking to change the colour but for now they will do as is, for now I'd rather spend money on getting the car working than cosmetics!2 points
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That E10 is absolute dog turd.. Only e5 goes in ours, especially after it ruined the injectors in Karen's accord. It's like a double bonus of super unleaded in top of not being E10 π2 points
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Thank you very much for confirming this and your post - makes my car build a lot easier as I was expecting to have to modify the stock seat structure (which in itself is a problem because my passenger seat was accidentally disposed of - best not to ask)2 points
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Got this photo from my father in law this morning that he got the head unit in in about 5 mins on the first try, always the way π2 points
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More progress MB6 dash installed and MB6 cluster fitted Modified the centre console slightly (basically just removing the tray in front of the gear stick) to accommodate the shifter box Cut a hole in the back of the glovebox and mounted the ECU inside Installed a steering wheel boss and OMP 300mm wheel Unfortunately I wasted a couple of hours trying to get the head unit to fit in the dash as I was struggling with all the spiders web of cables behind so I couldn't get it rolling today π₯² but it's a marathon not a sprint!2 points
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Spent the bank holiday installing the new timing chain/guides/tensioner, service manual print outs in hand and triple checking everything. All sealed up now, should be able to get the engine back in next weekend, all being well. Chain that was on was stretched - not by as much as some i've seen but the main difference I noticed is the chain tensioner was quite far extended whereas the new one is much less extended, maybe it couldn't take up the slack or something jumped on first start. Anyway, hopefully this is all sorted now. Also changed the crank pulley seal as I don't ever want to be going in there again!2 points
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A rather inebriated looking K24A showed up this morning But it has the RBB markings on the head which is what matters - meaning it is the "full fat" version with 3-lobe VTEC and ~200hp. There is a similar looking version with 160hp and only 2 cam lobes so you have to be careful! Hopefully get that mounted up onto an engine stand at some point and take a closer look inside but so far so good. For peace of mind i'm going to give it a compression test and have a peek into the cylinders with a scope before going any further.2 points