weetec

TASTY!!!.... was looking to get them tyres but a huge difference in price with 55 profile

i would definetly recomend greasing the inner threads of the rear adjustable arms. i remember trying to repair a set for a friend which were corroded badly inside. as we tried to unscrew them the thread was torn away whilst unscrewing the adjusters.... next step had to bin them.

i would definetly recomend greasing the inner threads of the rear adjustable arms. i remember trying to repair a set for a friend which were corroded badly inside. as we tried to unscrew them the thread was torn away whilst unscrewing the adjusters.... next step had to bin them.

defo double on this.. get your car re-mapped and vtec lowered with a skunk 2 inlet manifold. unless your g/box is knackered dont bother.

defo double on this.. get your car re-mapped and vtec lowered with a skunk 2 inlet manifold. unless your g/box is knackered dont bother.

as you look at the cams they are actually as you described approx 11:57.... the main thing is they have the 2 inscribed allignment marks lined up facing each other. your even able to install a pin approx 4-5mm in the camshaft holder on the intake to lock the cam and stop it turning round when installing the belt...then the pulley arrows face more anticlockwise than dead on 12. the bottom mark on the crank is lined up with the corresponding mark on the block. depending on how you did it this helps if the plastic guard with timing mark was taken off.

as you look at the cams they are actually as you described approx 11:57.... the main thing is they have the 2 inscribed allignment marks lined up facing each other. your even able to install a pin approx 4-5mm in the camshaft holder on the intake to lock the cam and stop it turning round when installing the belt...then the pulley arrows face more anticlockwise than dead on 12. the bottom mark on the crank is lined up with the corresponding mark on the block. depending on how you did it this helps if the plastic guard with timing mark was taken off.

front cyberspeed camber arms have my vote due to construction and the bolts used are 17mm not farty little allen-keys... theres some horror stories around about them allen-key type camber arms.

front cyberspeed camber arms have my vote due to construction and the bolts used are 17mm not farty little allen-keys... theres some horror stories around about them allen-key type camber arms.

cyberspeed all day long....

cyberspeed all day long....

cheers pal... been lookin around and these guys look good....this temporary one has made one hell of a difference over the old one.... the old one must of been on its last legs...

it has to be said hardware like S300 versus chrome etc is a huge difference..... bit its all about the money...

TWOHUNDREDANDFOURBRAKEHORSEPOWER thats got to be down to the S300 tuning capabilities. is the ignition timing advanced or on standard set-up the last mb is saw tuned on hondata S300 at TDi North had 189bhp.... something special is going on there...come on pal, spill the beinz

lookin good Lee about time....seriously miss them chronos... uber rare

definetly...never do that again

hi peoples, i was stupidly pulling the spark plug lead and it arced across the rocker cover then the car stalled. next salute the car failed to start spent all day trying to figure out what went wrong. then swopped the dizzy for a working one .......hey presto it started. so any recommend a new dizzy from a reputable supplier the dizzy im currently using is on loan

cheers noodles, looking mega bucks ...but still going to do the head with stock renewed pistons,new rings shells etc. keep forgetting to add costs such as new oil,water pump. and all little things such as timing belt and not to forget re-map. basically a fresh engine with type-r cams, plus labour without re-map will set me back about £700. i allready have the cams and valves etc. summer project.

ok peoples, looking to build another engine for my MB. i have the head gear, teg cams, springs etc. however a little confused on the bottom end. ideally i wouyld like to stick to honda stuff. new bearings, shells, seals etc but dont know wether the standard crank and rods will match up to the higher domed pistons from the integra type-R... any help on this, thanks.

im pretty sure once you have had your car mapped the accuracy of the rev display changes from previous...check on this one though i may be wrong.

our trader johnbankshonda sell a genuine clutch for £140 delivered

heres what i did..... i had a set of keys including the red key from another MB including the receiver under the driver kick panel... so i took all the chips from the spare set and and installed them in to my existing car keys including swopping the receiver under the dash driver side.... simples....

you do pay the money for these branded products but they do know we live civilised lives as-well.... i read an article somewhere, wish i could quote the name but it reads something like " the materials for a custom exhaust are readily available, however to produce a quiet performance exhaust requires much research and the use of expensive materials to reduce the sound output".