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weetec

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Everything posted by weetec

  1. the MG unit itself is smaller than the MB although the spring is thicker. sure they aint sold you diesel set up? all checks should be done on a flat surface. as for the un-even bit. jack the car up and make sure the springs are sitting at rest completely on the lower stop. you may have to use spring compressors and twist the spring so it sits home properly whilst its all on the car.. you should have even damper threads exposed at the top of the struts in the engine bay between the 2. same for the rear. if for example rear left damper is knackered then this will raise front right body. realistacally a finger gap is lost when installing this set-up... shorter damper is visual however bigger guage spring compensates for strength. lowering on any other after-market spring can be done but will cause the damper to shoot out on potholes as your technically over-compressing a lowering spring and its under constant tension to release. suspension goons r us
  2. you can adjust the locking mechanism a little at a time to get best the result. make sure you do it with car parked on a flat surface. could be rubber damper things on either side may need adjusting.
  3. i would get the meisters. quality. standard wheels keep comfort and fill the arch.
  4. heres what i do.. .. .. keep expansion bottle topped up lid closed.. put a little mark on the expansion bottle where the fluid is.. just so you can see it really. ...radiator lid on...get the car hot switch engine off then squeeze allmost everypipe you can get hold of a couple of times.. carefull as they are hot. if you come across one of the rear pipes from the heater matrix as cold, most likely that is where circulation is stopped due to air. as it cools down the water from the expansion bottle should slowly be sucked up. and obviously be replaced with air.
  5. X2.. if its not sat right it will make a height difference.
  6. many mixed revirws on this.. some say its essential to install the matching springs with cam's. others have experience and say its fine. no need to change spring's. personally i think it's a ticking time bomb. in my opinion i think it's ok to rev to stock limit with teg cam's and normal C4 spring's. but as i have both C4 spring's and teg spring's. there is a difference and it's all about valve float. the teg cam's open a wee bit more and for a slight longer duration. dual spring's on the intake and exhaust. the retainers are identical. revving through the gear's is all good if it's consistent and smooth change's. but... hold it in a for example 2nd gear too long and you risk something going wrong.. i would not risk it to be honest.
  7. standard oem all day long
  8. weetec

    Lost Key

    easy getting the barrell off. i used a dremel. grind a slot in to the snap-head security bolts. screwdriver opens them easily. wack another barrell on.... just swop the chip within the key to your new key . i know you wont have a matching key set but what the hell... i have a full set of locks. passenger and , driver ignition barrell, boot and glove box lock. 2 key's. let me know.
  9. i would stick to a standard integra. reliable. and by the time you pressed the clutch its just right to change gear.. too quick a shift and crunch.
  10. same happened to me, had car remapped and had a print out of 185bhp, then had car rolling roaded and figure's come at 174bhp...? all roller's are different. you can go some place's and they will tell you it's 1000bhp..lol
  11. we spoke about this at the meet. i swear that's an ARC. they have gone bump and now don't exist. so you now have a collector's item... rare . get an ARC de-cal made of vinyl and wack it on
  12. they are standard bulb's i think the reflector in the lens in the top of the light's make it look that bit brighter. but when the brake light's are on they are much brighter.
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