weetec

personally id send them back and get finance on a set of meister R's or HSD. plenty of 0% finance companys out there. all them adjustments. youd be as happy as larry

i did think once to cut mine down but i knew i couldnt as the 14mm bolt going/through with the shocker would leave it the same. what material they made off?

i swear by honda MTF.

Got a link to the ones you have..... sadly i had the last of 4 sets. been a while now. doubt there is any more. i got them for the 1.8 MG 180. not the 2.5 V6. they dont advertise them anymore.

thats a nifty lil find... where did you hear about these?

been there done that, drastically changes the handling, and i mean drastically! your choice

very scooby sound however introduce a lot of cabin droan. i had this a while back http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAPSPEED-HOND ... 850wt_1139 note; the donut gasket from a genuine honda retailer is too big for this manifold collector. bad design really

indeed many times i have messed with this and figured it rather strange. i went from as follows; MB6 dampers with james 40mm springs. good ride but low. MG dampers with MG springs. only blue paint on springs. did lower car but rock solid. MG dampers with jamex 40mm springs. sat even higher and made rear springs bellow out due to over compression on a smaller damper. MG dampers with Eibach springs. as above, not to my liking MG dampers with PI 40mm springs.. again over compressing the spring in a smaller damper causes the damper to shoot out over potholes. now MG dampers with X-power (Eibach) springs) Happy. clears speed bumps, multi storey parking ramps. looks decent, drives comfortable. basically i can put my foot down without the need to worry my splitter will come off or manifold will scrape SPOT ON

i got new brakes and under heavy braking my front left vibrates. figure that one has not bedded in properly. a quick skim im afraid. your pads should slide in and out with 2 fingers when installing. may get rid of the squealing. also which shims did you use?

easier way is disconnect battery for about a minute.

probably gearbox bearing's

good for cornering but real good engine power is needed on the straights as when lsd is engaged, both wheels sup power.

mine is from a DC2. thats the master cylinder brace/brake thingy

cheers bud, wait till you see what iv got planned for the rears , was planning on the track rod ends but dont know about strength on road use. i know a guy who uses them on his teg but track only.

hi peoples, got sick of clicking from the front suspension and narrowed it down to the ARB links. so i made my own. cost for the lot was just over £38 and thats both sides thread lock, 1mtr 10mm rod, 8 x 10mm nuts, 2 spherical joints. i had to drill the original bushes and metal washer things to accept 10mm rod however the result is AMAZING .. NO MORE CLICKING . fitted a pair of bridgestone potenza on the front too

i had this on my other civic, i think its the driver door central locking motor. maybe a little spray grease.

just been in a similar position recently. buyer was ready to travel then i was faced with the decision what will i buy next and after all the money i allready spent on it.. too much car for the money. why give it away. besides what would i get next.

well worth it. no lsd however better acceleration.

.. shes not going now. the time waster who i struck a deal with made me see sense. i was in the position thinking what will i get next. couldnt think of anything else

hi chaps, little update on things progressing with my mb. removed the sump and oil pick up pipe. had a few hours to kill curious as to what condition things were inside. inside the pick up pipe gauze i found some very little metal bits crammed inside. these must be sharps which have come off from the cast of the head. i would recommend everyone to recheck their sump bolts/nuts. i was surprised how loose they were.

leaky dampers?

that is a component which is inside the distributor.

im pretty sure the original ITR rear mount has a little tab which sticks out preventing it from fitting to other subframes. tegiwa get around it by not making it this way.

i got mine from tegiwa.. the rear that is. no problems