weetec

heres what i do... fill it up, and the plastic bottle too.... run engine till its up to temp...then switch it off....on cooling down it will siphen fluid from the plastic bottle... let engine cool down with bonnet open 5-10 mins you can even see he fluid siphened back in to the rad.. get a marker pen and mark the level then later check it out. repeat as necessary... when the internal heaters blow hot air you have know you no longer have an air lock. hope this helps..

its just to stop the wind blowing it on to the wind- screen.. break my heart if it did.

hey knight where u these days writing a book hope all is well.

hey peoples, some minor updates on my mota.. got vinyl vtis badge made and a spare set of glass lenses for my foglamps. also a bungee cord to stop the bonnet blowing in to the windscreen. more rimz to spray when i get the time....

MB6 has studs.... the stick out things

im pretty sure the ZS is a 4x100 stud pattern.

if there was a post of the month you would have won it Excellent build there pal.. Bravo.

if its only in certain gears then it may be a gearbox problem...hard to beleive though... sounds as if it will drive through smaller gears but struggles to produce combustion under load.... if it revs up freely when car is stationery then more likely something is obstructing the airflow through engine breathing... exhaust baffles collapsed

hi peoples... a quick pic at the civiclife meet today at trafford centre...

leave as is...... skunk 2 inlet and a good re-map, with breathing mods ie exhaust and intake....

i have spoken to merlin motorsports and they recommend using e-glass to surround the perforated pipe. the perforated pipe will have tp be also covered with stainless steel wool... basically this stops the e-glass from blowing out the exhaust. the way it works as the noise fills the rear silencer it excites the e-glass strands and they absorb the noise. so dont pack it too tight!.. after a while every exhaust collapses. dependant upon usage and time... basalt can be used but will not last as long.

i have spoken to merlin motorsports and they recommend using e-glass to surround the perforated pipe. the perforated pipe will have tp be also covered with stainless steel wool... basically this stops the e-glass from blowing out the exhaust. the way it works as the noise fills the rear silencer it excites the e-glass strands and they absorb the noise. so dont pack it too tight!.. after a while every exhaust collapses. dependant upon usage and time... basalt can be used but will not last as long.

weld it back....?...or will the heat burn the packing???

weld it back....?...or will the heat burn the packing???

why not nitrous? its expensive but iv seen it on a few car now... Ep3 and a 1.6 civic non v-tec i think d-series. dont know much about them but the little 1.6 was neck n neck with an EK9. it costs around £50 for a bottle fill. just a thought....

why not nitrous? its expensive but iv seen it on a few car now... Ep3 and a 1.6 civic non v-tec i think d-series. dont know much about them but the little 1.6 was neck n neck with an EK9. it costs around £50 for a bottle fill. just a thought....

its bigger than a standard mb6 backbox. i paid £150 for the system via e-bay a while ago now. i guess the material inside was cheap. going to make some enquiries tomorrow about what to re-pack it with. i will keep us all posted with results.....cheers

its bigger than a standard mb6 backbox. i paid £150 for the system via e-bay a while ago now. i guess the material inside was cheap. going to make some enquiries tomorrow about what to re-pack it with. i will keep us all posted with results.....cheers

hi peoples, getting pretty irritated as my exhaust definetly sounds louder than when i first bought it... its a toyo sports exhaust. the rear can is huge with a straight through pipe in it. looking to do something like the following topic i found on the web.... http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2135029 what you guys think i do apologise if any rules are broken.... please adjust where necessary....cheers.

hi peoples, getting pretty irritated as my exhaust definetly sounds louder than when i first bought it... its a toyo sports exhaust. the rear can is huge with a straight through pipe in it. looking to do something like the following topic i found on the web.... http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2135029 what you guys think i do apologise if any rules are broken.... please adjust where necessary....cheers.

dont forget the code 22 fix...knock sensor..... scott at h-tune has this info...

dont forget the code 22 fix...knock sensor..... scott at h-tune has this info...

if your taking the engine apart then there is your car off the road for a wee while....keep it running and buy another engine to work on.... dont rush it!. im building an engine and it may well take me a year due to finances.... starting the bottom block first.... b16b oversized pistons, new oil pump basically everything new. i allready have the teg cams, springs etc etc for the head... the way im looking at it is to do it once and proper. and im still motoring with my current engine which i will sell towards the end of my built engine. that way i will get a little money back.

if your taking the engine apart then there is your car off the road for a wee while....keep it running and buy another engine to work on.... dont rush it!. im building an engine and it may well take me a year due to finances.... starting the bottom block first.... b16b oversized pistons, new oil pump basically everything new. i allready have the teg cams, springs etc etc for the head... the way im looking at it is to do it once and proper. and im still motoring with my current engine which i will sell towards the end of my built engine. that way i will get a little money back.

TASTY!!!.... was looking to get them tyres but a huge difference in price with 55 profile