weetec

good show today lee. im glad your keeping on top of those wheels.

they are wide iv had 16" et35 7.5jj in the past. they were wide too. i dont think youll be able to lower it at all. it will catch a lot.

step 1. nice empty space. preferably non- residential area. must be dry! step 2. proceed to raise hand brake, keep clutch pressed, engage 1st gear. step 3. raise revs to approx 4000rpm. step 4. simultaneously dis-engage clutch release hand brake and apply more throttle whilst grasping steering wheel to control direction of steer. step 5. inspect area where the above was carried out. if twin/parallel tyre marks visible, everything works fine. thats how i do it.

anytime bro, next friday night come over to the strip. ill give you a shout.. nikh, great to meet you too

.. very nice...unique another member on here may have that same colour. username scottravenhill

my old C reg Mk2 gold was a nightmare to steer. people would look at me getting in to tight spots as i wrestled with the steering wheel. however i did get a sense of satisfaction when parked. i suppose that kinda explain's the arthiritis. i would not recommend it.

iv had the front from the same company must be going on 2 years now.. never had a problem. they supply a wicked grease. going to have to find out what's its called.

indeed.. its the main factor in suspension. its all good uprating major components but these little things count too.

hi peeps, just another little update.. got these from our friends in poland.. fit a dream.. much better ride on the rear now. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CIVIC-C ... 2912wt_822 got them for £47+postage... delivered by UPS too .. wife wasnt too happy about me fitting them in the kitchen

OE clutch can take a good hammering.. john banks does them for about 140 delivered..with bearing.

huge manifold really gives power gains at high RPM. heres a pic of a ebay 4-1 and a 5zigen 4-2-1..... i have also seen a 5zigen 4-2-1 with 2.5 true collector. HUGE you get a hell of a lot of cabin droan with 4-1 aswell

it certainly would be a better match up. the only resaon why i commented on this is i have done this before. if you look through the rear wheel with the car under load youll see the spring over-compressed and leaning to one side in the middle. and what happens to a spring under tension it trys to expand... so inn effect it will over stretch the damper should you hit a deep pot hole, not by much will cause abnormal spring action..... on compression, for me the spring would hit the dust cover. a few hundred miles it will distort the spring.

you got to be carefull with them springs. compressing them in to a smaller damper will cause them to buckle under load.

ill be loking to invest in a MG ARB.. thats exactly the same as a integra GSR. that single rod design is miles better.

weight up the pro's n cons. i bought the car with the buzz of "air conditioning" however, in the last 3 years of 30,000miles or so i have totally used it about 500miles and thats generous is it really worth it in this climate i got rid. especially as the pulley wheel came off on the motorway and allmost destroyed everything within the vicinity. id say average weight is approx 15kg's. but engine bay looks well better. me n andy working on car... one of the benefits is you can now stand in the engine bay

glad your sorted matey

i had a spark even on my knackered dizzy... my brother had that little in line HT lead tester thing. when i phoned honda distributor uk and told them what id done they said straight away id fried the dizzy.

its a wild a$$ guess but id bet its the dizzy... that croakey sound is just the engine coming to a stop under no load conditions ie no spark... when theres fuel ignition n combustion all sings along well but the croak sound tells me theres no spark to ignite the petrol hence the pistons are literally pushing/sucking air. that is basically the induction noise you get escaping through the inlet valves then resonating echoing in the inlet manifold and back through the panel filter. i would certainly recommend changing the whole dizzy for a working one. i spent a full day swoping the coil, ignitor backwards n forwards. then i bought a new dizzy. started 1st time. remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the timing belt protective plastic cover. the cam cover does overlap the plastic but with a bit of persuation it will come out. double check the arrows on cam pulleys and TDC mark on bottom pulley with the mark on the bottom plastic guard. get a hacksaw and cut of the plastic off which was a struggle to prise from the rocker cover and fix it back.. stop any foreign objects mixing with the cambely/pulleys. or you could just pull the rocker cover off....

when installing the pads in to the carriers they should move freely. a good example is they should slide in and out with 2 fingers before you replace the carrier and bolt it all back up.

i removed the aircon permanently. no where as near as noticable as removing the rear seats and replacing the spare wheel for a space saver. the S9B gearbox has to go if you want the thrill of acceleration and replace with a S80 or Y21. if its a down n out track car you want theres no limit. these Ms have potential as they are sleepers but slowly people are finding their true potential as its affordable compared to other cars out there.

well...its going back 6 months a friend bought one from a member on MCR-VTEC forum.. im pretty sure its a import job.

Thanks for coming

if you buy as a set one will be for the gearbox, shorter one and the other for the sump. the gearbox one is a must have. allthough i couldnt imagine small enough pieces of metal would last long in there any way as the gears mesh away the metal to metal contact makes a paste of the fine metal wearings and it smears all over the internal components. the internal magnet of the gearbox which theres are 2 in the casing usually does the job.

you can get the regular ones from tegiwa etc... but next time im going for the mines one.. much stronger magnet. thats the japanese tuning company mines.