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Everything posted by burbleboy
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I just felt that the setup seemed too 'soft' and constantly adjusting the shocker stiffness didn't seem right.....until I remembered Krzys saying something about him adjusting the preload...which got me onto this thread! I will adjust preload when weather is better. Then it should be how I like it...only taken me a year to figure this out
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Thanks mate, just needed some clarity
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Erm, you lost me slightly! I think i'm wanting to stiffen the springs up a bit to stop the car bottoming out so I can then set the shockers to a happy medium setting. So, would I be best to loosen both nuts (directly under the spring) and then tighten the top nut towards the spring to gain stiffness? I think when my shockers are softer, the spring seems too soft and causes the top arm to be hit. I can only guess that's the banging I hear sometimes! I hope this made sense to you! lol lol I wanted to get a first hand experience from someone that had messed about with MB6 springloads etc
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I'm sure @Krzys had adjusted his spring rate on the MB6....?????
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I have only ever adjusted the ride height on my Meisters, as on my previous Honda Accord, I fecked up the handling meddling with stuff I don't know about! The problem, if you like, is I have my perfect ride height (low but doesn't scrape) but when I soften the shockers, the car bottoms out on the front top arms (I think) under dips and when I stiffen the shockers up, they bang over bad bumps. I'm trying to find a happy medium but haven't a clue how to maximise the adjustment capabilities of the Meisters. Would I then adjust the nuts directly under the spring to improve things? Basically, what happens to the handling when I start turning the nuts under the spring?! I know a bit about cars, but suspension setups? Nadda
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Agreed with the red and white. Would be awesome! I always remember, a two or three years back, Jacque Villeneuve saying that he wishes he was in the F1 now as they have no traction control. He said when he was driving he preferred the driver skill aspect rather than any electronic traction control etc. I personally think the drivers are told not to mention their true feelings regarding DRS and 'tyre racing' etc to the media, as that would be detrimental to the sport. The drivers want to go racing wheel to wheel for the whole of the grand prix, not just for a few laps until their special tyres 'go off the cliff'. Bring back normal tyres and make them all race wheel to wheel...maybe DRS included! p.s Can't wait to see if Vettel gets showed up for his skills in a 'lesser' car. The Red Bull car won him his championships. He is a good drivers obviously, but no true battler like Hamilton IMO.
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Have you fitted the manifold yet?
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Bonkers car! I like it!
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Nice car mate! I would loose the spoiler also and keep it as a relative 'sleeper' car
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Send us a link Mr Caveman
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Teg DC2 / DC5
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Oh dear The infamous calipers bite back (or not in your case!) I always grease the pins on all the calipers at every oil change, lowers the chances of fronts seizing on. Replaced all the rear calipers on mine so its ok until I sell in couple of years hopefully.
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I recon it's a Honda Accord. Got to give him the benefit of the doubt by staying with the best brand out there...Honda
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Burbleboy's VTi-S Build **NOW SOLD 16/12/15**
burbleboy replied to burbleboy's topic in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
Just a wee update regarding Skunk 2 ball joints; A big thumbs up to Funkypower for supplying me new ball joints instead of the full arms. Makes it easier to line up old markings to save getting full suspension geo done again. They sent out the part first and trusted me to sent back the old ones, which I will obviously do. Not many companies would send parts out first. They would always take payment for replacement and refund when they get the faulty goods back. Saves me money and hassle having vehicle off the road. Again, top company. -
Copied n pasted this from a website. Not much info on actual techniques of electricity placement; The Nano Scale Crystalline Particles are controlled using a Low Grade Magnetic Field which is used to effect the spacing of the colloidal nano crystals and thereby controlling their ability to reflect light and change color. These unique Nano Paints are optimal for all vehicles, cars, auto, buildings interiors, exteriors, commercial, industrial, consumer products' applications. A continuous small electromagnetic charge is needed to keep the desired color active and the driver also has the ability to turn off the system in order to get the vehicle turning back to its initial or default color.
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I was referring to the special paint being the conductor somehow....I know plastic doesn't conduct.
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Unless it needs only a small amount of wires to pass electric shock through the one panel and the paint acts as a conductor? Who knows! Look into it Dave and start to use it in your paint shop!
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Ruby VTi winter proofed with wax and graft
burbleboy replied to JayTripleR's topic in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
Myself and John both work for Western and get the discount but as Dave says, civic5 get discount as well. Maybe @Dave can give us a contact name? Myself and John both work for Western and get the discount and parts delivered to our dealerships as were the one company but different manufacturers. -
Good thinking. Looks like you could go wider/deeper dish on the rear. You could keep these for any winter tyres
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Nice looking car! Spotless
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Ruby VTi winter proofed with wax and graft
burbleboy replied to JayTripleR's topic in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
Panels from Honda may be a good shout John. Especially with Western Honda discount -
I am a bit dubious as well but Google says it's true!
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Lol lol
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Are you being sarcastic Mr T Unicycle?!!!!