burbleboy

Got my car in last night and checked the clutch fluid..... So quickly bled and changed it with Mercedes Benz prime Dot 4 fluid (FOC) I had a go at adjusting my clutch pedal to get rid of excess play but struggled with the nut. Ended up taking off the master cylinder was the easier option. The cylinder had play in the rod and was sweating slightly. Need a new master cylinder then. Adjusted it anyway but pedal still felt the same and struggled to get 4th gear on roadtest. Exhaust then blew at the same time. So Friday morning will be spent at Dingbro buying a new clutch master cylinder and then travelling through Glasgow rush hour traffic to my mates work to do a temp exhaust repair. Will book it into my usual exhaust place later as I want it all done proper. Waiting time for exhaust place is usually 2-3 weeks

I agree mate, if it is the clutch away then I think I will just buy a new one at £100. I would be always thinking if the clutch will hold on roadtrips but also, when it comes time to sell, I don't want someone driving about in a clutch that has half it's life. I care that way you see!

^^ corrected

I'm going to change the clutch fluid on Saturday after work and see how that goes. A guy in my work has a couple of spare slave cylinders so he will bring them in as he is also working Saturday. He mentioned that he has TWO decent spare clutches from a DC2 lying around. I asked how much for him to do clutch and he said "make me an offer". So I said £50 all in for parts and fitting....he was happy at that! So if I need a clutch then it can be sorted with a decent clutch. I have never fitted a second hand clutch but he insists that it was not original from factory as someone had replaced it and then crashed the car. So it may have only a few thousand on it! saves me a bob or two!

Some good info there mate. Another thing to research before buying a clutch! Got money saved up for a timing belt this year so will have to use that for this repair

Gearbox oil is changer every year and no leaks anywhere The coilovers were adjusted exactly the same..except the front is 10mm lower for handling. My height marker is from the bottom of the rim (between tyre and alloy) to the arch taken by measuring tape on flat surface.

I have made him aware mate

@Krzys Could it be my clutch at fault for the gears? My pedal has a biting point that's a bawhair off the floor. If the speeds are higher then the flywheel would be spinning faster and clutch may struggle, except at lower speeds? Just a thought!

yeah mate, that's why I don't think it's the box tbh. The bolt at the bottom of the short shifter may need investigating as when that is too tight, the gears are stiff (albeit all the time). I will check that bolt anyway in case the salt has corroded it! As long as I get the ride height back to the same after I re-adjust the preload again then it will save me ANOTHER trip to Progrip! I shall do the fronts tomorrow morning and then the rear during the week, cant face adjusting everything at once, like I did on Saturday there * tear drops down cheek*

Hi mate, I adjusted the preload no bother but may have stuffed up with regard to how much! I put around 10mm of preload on to stiffen the springs so that I can then soften the shockers to get a 'happy medium' compromise on ride quality and handling. It handles well but the usual bumps I hit on the way to work each night seem harsher tonight I canny win! I think I will keep the ride height the same (so that I don't have to get another geo done) and reverse the preload to make spring longer to absorb the bumps more. Lesson learned :( Progrip checked the gear linkage and found ok. Gearbox mount was fine and the engine mount was slightly perished but not bad he said. I really don't know whats going on. Fine getting gears stationary and driving normal, but bring dual carriageways into it then the issue arises. If it was the gearbox then it would crunch or do it all the time. The fact it is not doing it all the time is just plain confusing! The gearbox oil has been changed twice in the last two years. With Honda MTF I may add!

I just love that blue colour. Prefer that to pirates black tbh

It was a weird place to have a leak tbh. But preventive maintenance is a good thing!

So, as its mid winter, I tend to bring my car in and give it a going over to free off any brake slide pins and give it a service. My car is booked in (again) to Progrip for a full suspension geo to iron out the pulling to the left, after the last roadtrip! The front wheel tracking would only need done but as I'm a fussy fecker, a full geo is the only option for me. I don't really tend to post many pictures on my thread as I only really do that when fitting mod parts. I'm going to start posting pictures of my car when it gets worked on more often. Here are some pointless pictures from yesterday; I wanted to adjust the spring preload to 10mm, so cleaned up the coilovers when I was there: One front bottom slide pin was seized slightly so cleaned it up with the works bristle machine, re-greased and fitted: Now I have had a slight leak (again) from the air vent in the boot. Time to fix properly: FIrst off is rear bumper removal (not all the bumper but enough to get in) Removed the screw holding the corner: Removal of the rivets ontop of bumper: The offending air vent: Doing it properly this time, not just the foam like last time: Used some Mercedes foam stick on seal as there is a largish gap between the vent and the car body hence the leak: Smothered in sealer: Time for the service: Good to use the works equipment, makes life easier Adjusting the spring preloads increases the ride height. To compensate this after I stiffened the preload, I then lowered the car the proper way to try and get the height back to what it was. After driving around the yard a couple of times, I measured the suspension again...same height as before but all round. So had to lower the front slightly for handling purposes. Back into the workshop and back onto the ramps to adjust front down a further 10mm as per factory spec. Now car is ready for Progrip on Monday Also have another problem with the car. It is very difficult to get the car into gear on motorways recently. I am having to use substantial force to get 3rd/4th and 5th gears. I can get into gears when stationary and slow speeds which points me to an engine or gearbox bush away, That would cause the linkage to move when engine or gearbox is under stress at speed. So when its in Progrip, I shall ask him to check out the bushes as I couldn't really tell when I was under it doing the service I can't really complain as the car has been uber reliable considering I drive it quite hard. I always like to fix any problems straight away, so will be using Honda parts for this fix like normal!

When I fitted my MGZS suspension mate, it fitted straight on without problems. I don't really know if this is the answer your looking for!

Nice work there fella

Love the colour mate! Like the plans for it

Very strange indeed as not a good selling point

The second M on the list has not been looked after well. Most of the manifold studs missing and oil dipstick AWOL. A sure sign of a half arsed owner.

I bought front drop links for around £8 from ebay. Track rod end was around £25 from factors. Cheap really. No need to find other car fitments!

I know they are a site sponsor but........ Millers CFS Motorsport 10 40 fully synthetic oil; Opie Oils Ebay Account ...........£45.98 delivered Opie Oils own Website..............£49.98 delivered (with civic5 discount) Just saying

Nice build! The K24 Accord Executive is what I will be going for next year. Got big plans for it (cosmetic wise)

Took my time reading this thread and must say I like the mods!

The Eibach Pro springs are £280 and mzgs shocker setup can be had for as little as £30 from ebay breakers. Or try and find an MB that's being broken on ebay and look out for suspension mods on them.

It was the exact same filter as I have.....but filter was only for up to 200bhp! Johns ATR was 209bhp and the centre of the cone came away and got sucked into his intake throttle! PMSL